rf9000

Yes, but will never have 30 cleints. EVERYTHING is hardwired, all TVS JoshAI, APs, etc. Literally will only have phones, laptops, over air printing, etc on Wifi. I really wish I could get the Unifi 6 LR units, but would those act as same as the Eeros for flawless AP to AP jumping, and one network name that automatically selects the best band to use?

Yeah. The Eero Pro claims up to 574mbps on 2.4, 1202 mbps on 5ghz, and 2402 mbps on secondary 5ghz, but those numbers are inflated I think too

That is my only issue. Other than top speeds, they jump from AP to AP flawlessly, oly show one network name when searching for availbale networks, etc. These are the things I want, but I heard the speeds are a bit lacking. We have 500mbps service from internet provider. I seriously would really like to get the Unifi 6 LR APs, as they fir my needs perfectly, but of course those are not in stock

Thank you. I'm going to try the Eeros Pros and see how they go. I knew that most would bash them on here, but I also have some insight from another dealer who says they have never had issue with them whereas they have had issues with Packege, Unifi, etc. They even hate to admit it, but they say they just work. The Eero Pros can do up to gigabit speeds so I guess we will see how it goes. It also does solve the issue of the Ruckus APs looking so ugly, haha. many of these are ceiling mounted. I dont know, we will see

They were all pre-flashed to unleased unless the flash didnt work

Not saying its junk at all. Just saying that every time there is an issue, I dont want to have to pay Ruckus.

You cant use the Pentair 523434 Wireless Link Kit or another option?

Ok, but that small adapter is $600? Wasnt told this when pool guy sold me the center so that we can integrate it

I'm reviving this thread to see if anything has changed. So we upgraded the pool to the Intellitouch Control panel. We currently have no wires ran to the panel for communication as it wasnt part of the initial plan. We do have extra CAT6 wires stubbed outside of the house about 30' away that we could bury and run to the location. But, is this needed or do we use the Pentair wireless bridge? We would like to have no issues with this and have heard mixed things about the Pentair driver, etc. What is the best way to integrate this with C4. We really only have a couple fountains and some pool lights to control, along with pool status, etc. would be nice.

With Intellitouch, does a physical wire have to be ran to the Intellitouch center and then back to the rack, or can it be WIFI

With Intellitouch, does a physical wire have to be ran to the Intellitouch center and then back to the rack, or can it be WIFI

All. Recently deployed six Ruckus APs (two 710s and four 610s) in a residential setting. Having troubles. Only the 710s show up and on unleased, the 610s are stuck in what looks like a constant updating firmware loop. Their status always says updating and then eventually goes to offline. Looks like they are constantly restarting. Called Ruckus and they will not give you a bit of help even though you are using their product. You must buy support from them in order for them to talk to you. I have really never encountered this before with any company, and frankly it really turns me off to Ruckus. I have been recommended by several to get the Eero pros. These have been removed from the Control4 blacklist and I have had several tell me they really never have an issue with them. Very reliable. Everything is basically hardwired in this home, so wifi will generally be for iphones, laptops, printing over air, stuff like that. There is 500mbps service to the home. Araknis 310 router. I know many will bash the Eeros because they really are not a dealer specific product, but I have been told they work great. I do have a question though, they seem to have the dealer Eero CI Pro and then the Eero Pro. From what I can tell they seem to be the exact same thing, just that the CI is the contractor version and as contractor you have access to the POE+ ceiling brackets?

I also may have sort of asked this before, but in the latest C4 software, can access codes be set for certain users or to an icon in general? I would be very surprised if the C4 software isn’t capable of this. I can think of many scenarios where I would not want the kids to have access. Like this fire pit. Say if they hit the “HVAC” button on their bedroom touchscreen, can a user code be required for them to access this menu? Same goes for Security, etc. It would also be nice to have them locked out from putting on music in other rooms then their own.

They do have a RF remote option

How quiet is the system you are using?

There are differences if you look closely. They say they manufacturer their own, but these days who knows what that means

But couldnt the Bond Bridge use the native remote control to control it?

All, Looking to integrate an outdoor firepit into C4. I have purchased a heavy duty electronic burner kit in which the ignitor can be controlled via remote control, can be controlled view bluetooth, or can be controlled via their own app. It also, can be wire dry contact. I currently have power wire and Cat6a ran to fire pit location. I know this can be easily hooked up to an IOX for integration, but it would be nice to have some flame control other than just on and off. Would I be better using something like a Bond Bridge here? Would this give me more flame height control? The firepit is located within 20ft of a cover patio where there is an AP so I dont think WIFI will be an issue. Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks

Thanks. Yes, I know the go to is usually Lutron, but prices are kinda ridiculous for a simple single motorized curtain. I'm also considering another brand I found. They look pretty nice, use commercial components and have a five year warranty on everything. They also work via Wifi but could integrate them with C4 using the same Bond Bridge/Chowmain setup.

Thanks. Yes, i'm aware of Lutron, but their prices are pretty high just for a simple motorized curtain. Seeing if anyone has had good luck with other brands.

All, Looking for some suggestions on motorized drapery rods. I have a room in which we want to incorporate a motorized drape that would slide all the way and stack on the right side. Some nice looking and quiet. Currently have CAT6a ran to the location and can have a power outlet there too if needed. Would want it integrated with C4 to operate via keypad.

They no longer make the CMX series and the refurb one is sold. The price was no concern on the VS vs. Triad, but everyone praises the Triads so much, its hard to go with the VS when I think only one forum member had recommended it. Plus, a few thought the Triads would work, so I decided to keep them and give it a shot. I think I have found a way to make them work after speaking with engineering, but was seeing if anyone had any other ideas since I lasted posted on this. What thing that will be ok, but would rather not do it, is combing four speakers in a zone to get the zone number down. They are all 8ohm and I know the Triad PAMP amps can handle it, but hope it doesnt lessen the quality or the output that much of the speakers.

By the way, you seem very upset when you respond? I'm a person that likes to figure things out and know why things work they way they do.

Problem is, I just found out the VS 38x38 is discontinued. Back to the Triads!

But if that meant buying at $6000+ audio matrix to overcome this little desired objective, then no that was out of the question. Yes a 32 zone Zektor would have been best, but sometimes spending $4000 more to get that ability to add an outdoor zone, really isnt worth it, right? Would love to have a no expense considered system "designed" but that wasnt the case. Also, we didnt want to eliminate zones. We actually have 60 in ceiling speakers for the whole home audio system, so we are already combining speakers on zones to get down to the 24 zones and we didnt want to eliminate speakers if that is what you meant by design. This doesnt include the outdoor zones where there is another 25 landscape speakers and five subwoofers, but those are all 70V