rf9000

To add to the above, are there any other options that work just as fast as the native C4 outlet dimmer? Like GE, Wemo, Insteon, etc. There are a bunch of WIFI outlet dimmers out there

All, Good day. I wanted to get your thoughts on the best solution here. So after doing research it looks like the old outlet dimmers (LOZ-5D1) were not really designed to dim LEDs. They can handle 700 watts total or 350 watts per plug. The new outlet dimmers are designed for LEDs and can handle about 150 watts (LEDs) and 300 watts (Halogen). So here is my question. I'm not actually dimming the LEDs directly. These outlet dimmers would be connected to the transformer that then powers the LEDs. Most of my transformers are 100 watt or less, but I do have one transformer that is about 350 watts. So if I'm not powering LEDs directly, and instead powering the transformers that then power the LEDS, can I use the higher power handling of the LOZ-5D1 that was made for halogen? Or even if I use the new outlet dimmers, can I go by the halogen rating instead of the LED rating? But even using the halogen rating for the new outlet dimmers at 300 watts, I still have that one 350 watt transformer, would it be ok?

All, I have a question on integrating my humidifiers. Do, I have seven C4 Tstats for seven zones in the home. They all are located in the utility room with remote sensors ran to each location. All are functioning properly. I have three furnaces running these seven zones. Each of these furnaces has a Aprilaire humidifier. The HVAC guys have simple Aprilaire humidity thermostat mounted locally to each vent with a probe inside to read the humidity for each furnace. I would like to get these readings on my C4 thermostats. We have a ton of wood flooring so want to monitor it. It would also be nice to be able to adjust it if needed but don’t know if that can be done. All of the remote sensors are the Aprilaire 8051s. Can those also detect humidity? Or do I need to replace 3-4 of them with the Aprilaire 8083s? That would at least let me get the readings through C4, but not really control it, right?

I did the reset and they work. Thanks guys on which buttons?

All, I have been installing Control4 C4-KD120 keypads in my project and have come across four of them that seem not to work. These were taken out from a previous project. When connected, they dont light up and the top button does not control the load connected to it. Could these have programming that causes the LEDs not to light up and the load not to be activated? Or do you think they are bad?

Ok, but not really sure what any of that is. I apologize, but I'm just looking for a simple answer to my question. I'm not quite sure yet that I'm going to monitor the system. I also am unclear on monitoring by cellular or Ethernet? Is one more commonly used than the other in this day and age? Which is better? IF I buy the 280-le and choose not to monitor at all, will I have any problems? I had heard that with one of these, I cant remember which one, that it must be monitored.

So just get the 280-le to be safe? Or will this not work at all if not third party monitored?

But isn't the TL-280-re just for un-monitored systems? Wouldn't I need the TL-280-le-r for a cellular monitored system? What does everyone do these days? Is cellular monitoring common?

haha...Four interior, one in the garage, two outdoor

So just wondering if the old outlet dimmer would work with the LED transformer, or if I need the newer style?

What module do I need to link this into C4? I know that I need the following items: 1 x HS2064 panel and cabinet 1 x 16.5V 40VA power transformer 1 x 12V 4A backup battery Everything I have is hardwired except one patio door is a going to be a wireless due to wiring constraints. This panel only has 8 hard wired zones so I will need to expand it. I would like to at least get more than enough hardwired zones. I have wired: -7 alarm sirens - 4 motion detectors (for the alarm, I also have various ones that I will be using to trigger events but those dont get wired to the alarm panel I assume) - 6 glass break sensors - 5 wired door contacts - 1 wireless door contact

OK

I was meaning the DSC Neo HS2064 panel.

Yes they are

Morning. So if I'm wanting to have these LED lights ramp up when turning on, can I use a LOZ-5D1-x dimmer outlet to plug the LED transformer into? Or do I have to use one of the newer C4-V-ODIM120 outlet dimmers?

Guys, Looking to purchase my alarm panel. Thinking the DSC NEO 64 zone. Good choice for C4?

Thanks. But in my situation I would actually prefer a timed situation. I wouldn’t want the music, lights, etc to turn off every time I walked out. The closet is right next to the bath but it’s in the master hallway adjoining the two and the bedroom where you have to leave the master bath and go down the hallway to get to the closet. It would get annoying if while getting ready everything kept turning off and on when walking back and forth, especially with two people. I would just set it to turn off if no motion is detected in let’s say five minutes.

Do you think what I listed will work good, or should it be more like a beam sensor?

Im actually using something like this mounted in the toe kick of the vanity https://www.123securityproducts.com/spy-4.html

Is what I'm doing, not commonly done?

Great. You have any suggestions for any small flush mount motion detectors?

Nobody on this?

All, I'm putting a very large mirror in the Master bath with behind mirror LED lighting on the top and bottom. I would like these LEDs to automatically dim ramp on when someone enters the room. I have installed a small SPY motion sensor in the toe kick of the vanity, about 6" inside the entry walkway, so basically the first step into the room will trigger it. This motion sensor wire is ran about 125' to the control room. Inside the vanity, there is a regular AC outlet where, a C4 outlet dimmer will be plugged in. Into this outlet dimmer the transformer for the LED lights will be plugged in. So, when someone walks into the room, it triggers the motion, which then is programmed to trigger the outlet dimmer to dim on the transformer. Is this the best way to do this? I'm just wondering if there will be any delay because the control room is 125' away?

But they dont blend in, this is my opinion. They look like eyesores from the 80's. Everything else in the world is going so thin and modern, but security stuff looks old school, especially for the wired stuff which really makes no sense as the wired stuff can be the slimmest with no need for batteries, etc.. The new full wireless systems that are out like Simplisafe, etc have sleeker looking components then hardwired stuff of the big security manufacturers. Kinda weird.

Yeah but how big of a deal is that? I mean if Amazon doesn't get you, somebody else will eventually the way the world is going. I know that Josh says this is their big selling point and why they can charge so much, but I think eventually with everything else around you becoming smarter and smarter, that will be less of a thing. Maybe not, I dont know