blackfiveo1

I have a Living Room dot and a Rack Dot, the living room Dot will receive the command, Alexa play Sirius XM, but I dont want the living room dot to play through its speaker, I just want the rack dot to play(which goes into c4 amp with autosensing to turn on audio in living room. How do I achieve this?

Is there a way to use the Echo Dot (3rd gen) to sync to control4 via bluetooth, to avoid having to run a 2nd one back in the rack to run the audio cable in to the matrix? Maybe using Shairbridge?

I am running Driver Version 2.02 but the Status shows as Incompatible Firemware v5.061, 

Everything seems to be working ok. What should my course of action be?

Use a remote guy. there are a handful on this site. My experience is that they make the local guys look like amateurs because they have a much wider band of experience. They do it at about anywhere from 1/2 to 1/10th the cost. I had "programming" estimated at $8,000 for initial project build and no custom programming. Just basically installing drivers for equipment I had etc. Remote guy did it for $450, it took us a grand total of like 8 hours. 3 years later everything still working perfectly

Anyone integrate with https://shop.garageio.com/ ?

Looks pretty simple

yes it was a hassle. I set the Uverse Router up in passthrough mode and let the Asus pull the public IP and handle all the DHCP for my network. I set the Uverse Router to 192.2 and my network is 192.1. I have the ARRIS BGW210-700 Gateway (which i was told last week is the latest fiber hardware they offer)

I have ATT U-Verse Gateway(Fiber)-> Asus NT66 Router -> Cisco Small Business 24 port POE Gigabit switch -> Unifi ACPro POE WAP

Disabled Wireless Radios on my Asus and my Att Uverse router

Everything plugs into the switch, the wireless is controlled by the unifi (1) will cover a 3000sq ft house fairly well (1-story). If I had a large setup in the backyard, I would do exactly what you mention in putting one on the back patio. 

This has been very stable for me and I pull about 300-500mbps over my wireless signal, and 900mbps on my wired connections. I have approx 40 connected devices on the network

I was on 2.0 for the 2.02 do I just need to update the dmx_domaudeo_RS232_Engine.c4z or do I need to re-add all my lights again?

Anyone recommend a good power block? my setup is looking like a massive rats nest as I have 6 decoders running now. 

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&ved=0ahUKEwiEjICwx6nTAhUmqFQKHbTwBcYQjRwIBw&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.solidrop.net%2Fproduct%2F12v-dc-power-distribution-18-ch-pcb-board-terminal-block-for-switching-power-supply-electricity-current-wiring-led-switch.html&psig=AFQjCNHVzpPBJujFedJ6PK7dCsKXpTRrFA&ust=1492452012686887

Found this but the quality looks sketchy

hmm just tinkering with this I wonder if I could install this without jailbreaking the appletv with like a sideloader

Can I install this on a jailbroken apple tv4 thats running homebridge?

Colorchanger is awesome and responsive! The security thing is a bit of a "seems in the wrong place" but ill take what I can get!

Everything worked as advertised, I did hit one snag, I couldnt get the new driver to see my DMX box, I had to login to the iTach and set the serial port from 9600 up to 115200. Then it was able to come online!

24 minutes ago, jackstone said:

1- You can't use the same serial cable you used for connecting to C4 controller or iTach to update the firmware, I know this is a pain but you need to use a straight DB9 cable WITH the pin 4, the presence of pin4 will put the DMX Engine in maintenance mode thus enabling the firmware update.

2- Yes, you can use a USB to DB9 adapter, I've updated all of my customers using that kind of cable on my laptop and it worked perfectly.

3- If you're updating a single XLR DMX Engine (single port), it will support the firmware BUT the LED built on the enclosure will stop flashing for some reason, the Engine will appear dead with no light on but it will still work and will run the newest firmware

4- You will also need to change the Baud Rate of the DMX Engine, old baud rate is 9600, and new driver require 115200. We've included a special driver to do that right into Control4, to keep things simple. Install the driver and follow the instructions in the properties.

5- You will need to replace all the DMX drivers in you project with the new version, older 1.x drivers are not compatible with this release.

Then you should be good to go.

 

Note to all new customers: You will not have to do all those steps since all DMX Engine purchased by February 2017 will be shipped with latest firmware and a default baud rate of 115200.

 

 

Just to confirm I flash the firmware upgrade, then after that I need to change the baud rate using rs232_dmx_engine_Baudrate_Changer.c4z? or do I need to change the baud rate BEFORE the firmware update. 

Using the USB -> Serial Cable is there any confirmation I should see to confirm the update worked either check via my computer and see something or get a success messgae on the .bat file?

Sounds like I need to get upated! my Driver version is 1.4 for RS232 DMX Engine? Sounds like I need to update this first?

EDIT: Found the new driver

Connect DMX engine to a PC using a serial cable. Pin 4 (DTR) must be present for the
firmware to load.
 

I wonder if the serial cable I have currently running from the DMX Engine to my iTach has PIN 4, for some reason I remember removing a pin to make it work to begin with. Im guessing this was pin 4?  Sounds like I may have to get a new serial cable just to update this bad boy

EDIT2: can I use a USB to serial to update firmware. None of my computers even have a serial port :/

bumping this, have a  KPZ-6B1 6 button keypad and I can't see it when I try to idenify it. 

all 6 are blue. when i do top button 13 botton button 4 the lights go random colors for 1-2 seconds, then all go orange for 4-5 seconds, then back to 6-blue. Any ideas?

Will this work with the Matricom G box-Q

I foudn this 4 channel dmx encoder that has the cat5 daisy chains and the dmx channel selector is actually digital without the dip switches, working nicely so far.

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2015-New-Style-3nd-Generation-DC-12V-24V-3-Channel-8A-DMX-Decorder-LED-Controller-for/32347860876.html

ok I think I understand

so basically i would use 2 decoders for a RGBW,

Decoder 1

R = Red

G = Green

B = Bluee

V+ = Constant

Decoder 2

R = Hook my White up here
G = Unused
B = Unused

V+ = Unused

All this adds up to 1 RGBW light run (in that case if I was using decoders I would need to double buy, sounds like amplifiers would be the way to go)

I almost like the idea of using a bunch of decoders(running 1 18/6 wire to the start of each run), but im back to my problem of wanting to run RGBW  and these decoders only are RGB.As opposed to h having to install amplifiers in my attic every 26 feet, it seems like I could set all my decoders to just do the same thing for my outside zone

Perfect thank you for your time and response, the PX24500 are just RGB, but I want RGBW strips, (my default I want my outside to be white). Is there a way to make that work? (different decoder possible? Also if I go that route of 1 decoder for all outside zone and use a bunch of amplifiers, I just need to be running a 18/2 gauge wire from my power supply to all these amplifiers is that correct?

Any links to a beefy power supply that would run all this? I found a 400watt one but figure I would probably need 3-4?

nice guy, more like a confused guy

im going to lay my scenario out here because this thread is awesome full of info

I want 3 zones I will call them. The zone behavior is exactly the same output from the RGBW strip

1 zone (theater room)

1 zone (living room/kitchen/entry accent lighting)

1 zone (exterior house led lining the sophet of the house all the way around (approx 360 ft)

So

HC800 [via Serial] --> RS232 DMX Engine XLR5 [via cable needed thats XLR5 to RJ45] --> PX24500 decoder.

I could literally stack 10 of these PX24500 decoders in my closet with 1ft cat6 daisy chains. and have my power supplies to power them in that closet.

then from the PX24500 decoders I run 18/4 cable to the start of my LED strips. Each Decoder can support how many RGBW 5meter strips??? (need to figure this out)

So..

Zone 1 could be Decoder 1

Zone 2 could be Decoder 2

Zone 3(outside) could be DecodeR 3-10?

OR

Zone 3 could be Decoder 3 piled up which a bunch of RGBW amplifiers(think I like this better)

Sorry just thinking out loud, please jump in and correct me

Thanks Neil for the quick reply!

Emailed a couple days ago never heard anything, anyone know if he is still doing this?