Uh-Wise

54 minutes ago, Cyknight said:

IF there is an EA or CA controler in the system, move the zigbee mesh to that controller

Back up the project.

On the back up delete all the non supported controllers. Even if any EA or CA controller is to be removed, leave it in.

Load back up to the new controller, add new controllers, move zigbee over to new controller(s) if possible.

 

If there is no EA or CA:

If you have one available, temp add it to the system, move zigbee to it/them.

Then as per above.

 

If you can't get an EA or CA in...well you will have to rebuild the zigbee network.

Set controller to 'join using' the new controler for zigbee, and go around and do the 13-4-13 followed by the 4 tap to join (you won't have to re-ID this way, just go light by light - actually sounds worse than it is)

Unfortunately there's no EA or CA controllers in the project. I may end up using our showroom's controller for a day or probably just clean up everything and rebuild from scratch. The only thing that will be painful is re-doing the custom buttons, scheduler and scenes.

We have a project running on HC800 and several HC250's.

The owner wants to upgrade the systema and we're installing new CORE controllers.

Here's where I realized we had an issue: CORE controller require 3.3+ to work. HC800 won't be accepted into a 3.3+ project.

Is there a way to migrate this project without having to re-do the whole house? It's basically a mansion.

Any insight is greatly appreciated.

Just in case anyone wanders around here, yes, there was a network switch with QoS and IGMP Snooping in the way. 

We're upgrading a project from 2.10.6 with HC800 and various HC250 to the CORE family of products. (CORE3 + IOXV2, CORE1's)

The project (2013) has the current gen light switches, but a whole bunch of older thermostats. 

The owner wants to upgrade to OS3 and later add Halo remotes, but is hesitant in case he has to change all thermostats.

I can't find solid info anywhere. Any insight is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

We're upgrading a project from 2.10.6 with HC800 and various HC250 to the CORE family of products. (CORE3 + IOXV2, CORE1's)

The project (2013) has the current gen light switches, but a whole bunch of older thermostats. 

The owner wants to upgrade to OS3 and later add Halo remotes, but is hesitant in case he has to change all thermostats.

I can't find solid info anywhere. Any insight is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

We had a system on 3.1.1,

Just upgraded to 3.2.4, and now we can't find the "system" automatically in Composer or the user app.

It does work with remote connection, and I can connect by manually add the system by IP.

User doesn't want 4Sight and this is kinda urgent so he can use the system app tonight.

Any help greatly appreciated.

This TCL driver worked PERFECTLY for a JVC Roku TV, thank you SO MUCH!

I'm having an issue with a Yale Assure YRD256-TSDB.

Codes for specific people were not working, turns out syncing time in composer fixes the issue. Once it's synced, the Properties tab will show a static time from when it was last synced, not real time. 

After a while, codes won't be accepted because they're out of their allotted working hours. 

I figured "hey, let's just program the lock to sync time with the director every sunrise", but "sync time" it's not available as an option.

Project is on 3.2.2, the driver is on it's latest verison, module is on version 7.
Any help greatly appreciated.

Hi, @msgreenf! Do you still have the driver/code for the XBOX button? I literally can't figure out how to exit apps (Disney/HBO Max) with the official driver.

Thank you in advance for your help.

Client has an OLD Bose Lifestyle V20 and also has 2 SA amplifiers for Zone 2 and 3. He refuses to add more/different amplifiers since "they're still good" and have HDMI in. 

The system works, and there's a driver for the Lifestyle V20 on the database, but no Zone 2/3 connections.

Does anybody know: 

1) If there's an efficient way to integrate them with Control4 (with volume control) or

2) If I use another Lifestyle driver like the 525 which does support Zones, will it work with the V20?

Please and thank you, any insight is greatly appreciated.

Most of the Fans we control have light fixtures in the center. Sometimes it's a surprise fan change last minute.

And having to waste a gang on "Fan Light" sucks for everyone. 

5 minutes ago, msgreenf said:

Yes. There is a universal sip driver that can be used. 

Thank you.
Do you know who'll be acting as the server? The director or the VTO?

We have a Dahua VTO2111. I see it works as a SIP device. I also know Control4 does that too. Is there a way to make a video call from that VTO Doorstation to the T3 or T4 touchscreen?

On 11/28/2020 at 1:37 PM, Cyknight said:

OK this needs to be clarified.

First, 'Intercom anywhere' isn't GOING AWAY in OS3. The two apps Control4 currently has for end-users, the Intercom Anywhere App and the Control4 app are being MERGED into a single app so that you don't need ot have two apps, and possibly switch from one to the other (to open a door or gate for example)

This has NOTHING to do with what is running your system's operating system. In fact it doesn't even really have anything to do with the operating system at all to begin with.

You WILL NOT 'lose' any intercom capability because you're running an HC800 vs an EA1. Not right now, not when the apps are merged in iOS like they are now on Android, and not that I in any way know of in the near future.

Hi, Cyknight. Big fan.

Any insights on why I can't see the Intercom menu in the OS3 app (Android)? Agent is running. Devices Idle. Tech said it was the HC800. 

On 11/26/2020 at 2:11 PM, BraydonH said:

To be clear an HC800 can run intercom just fine. So no worries there.

The IOS intercom app isnt unified yet. Download the Intercom anywhere app. The IOS app will be unified very soon so not sure how long you will even need ti IA app.

 

If you are on adroid the app is already unified and working great.

 

Likely your issue is because your on IOS

Since Intercom Anywhere is going away on OS3 systems, I'm scared that maybe I can't see the Intercom setting in the [Android] app because it's running an HC800.

9 hours ago, zaphod said:

FYI - other than OSD the HC-800 is more capable than the EA-1 in running a C4 system due to a better CPU.  It also has WAY more IO, especially audio outputs. But the video outputs are now pretty much useless.

I wouldn't REMOVE the HC800, I'd switch directors (so the project "runs" on an EA) and keep them in their current IO duties. 

@BraydonHIt's on Android. Can't see the Intercom menu. Agent is running and devices Idle. A tech said "It's because you're on an HC800. Upgrade to EA or roll back to 2.10.6", but it was working fine on 3.1.

 

Hi. Complicated situation.

House runs on an HC800 installed years ago. We wanted to upgrade to OS3, and since we only use the on-screen navigator in the master bedroom, we added an EA1 for more IO, as a ZAP, and navigator. We also have a DS2, WALL7, and a TT7.

The problem is, we don't see the native "Intercom" on the OS3 app. Apparently, it's because the director is an HC800 (is this accurate?). The DS2 rings on Intercom Anywhere, but I understand it'll stop working for OS3 devices in the next month. 

First... is this right? Or do we need to tweak something to get "Intercom" working on the native OS3 app running off an HC800.

Now, second: if not, would it be possible to "switch" directors? It's a small project, and I believe the EA1 can handle it. But what would the process be to change the director from the HC800 to the EA1?

Maybe I'll use an EA3 instead of the HC800 int he future, but for now... Any tips?
Thank you in advance for your help.

Hi,

I recall there being an iComfort driver from HouseLogix, but can't find it over at driverCentral.

Does the Lennox iComfort Driver still exist? It's for an M30 model.

Thank you in advance for your help. 

9 hours ago, Cyknight said:

 

Uhh that contradicts itself. If new ones were pulled, how can you not know the path of the wires?

My guess? Those neutrals in the three boxes are NOT jumpered but going to the panel, messing it up there.

 

My solution?

Put the switches at the 3rd box, aux in the others, use the power feed in box 3 for power and use the 4 conductors to pass through the 'yellow' AND the neutral back to the AUX.

Better solution?

Get rid of two of the two gang boxes, replace them with singles and but in ONE keypad in each locations with as many buttons as desired. Depends on ability to do so of course.

 

 

Contradiction: "Hey, the second I touch this wire, even unplugged, it activates the switch. Something is wrong with it." Electrician offered to replace them and they did. I didn't witness the changing of the wires. We didn't pull them. I don''t have the exact route the wires take, if they share a section of the way with other wires, or if they coincide in a junction box. Also, I don't how or where the neutral comes from. I have the exact same suspicion you presented. This post was to get insight from others who may have had experience with KA issues and may be able to diagnose by ear so we can fix it (grounding something, ferrite, jumping stuff...)

3rd Box is too far from the last Zigbee node. Even the 2nd Box is a bit too far, and there are 2 concrete walls between box 1 and 2, and 3 walls between 2 and 3. (The hallway branches into smaller ones).

I wanted to use keypads but the client was/is penny-pinching and insisted he just wanted 2 buttons for the 2 important points of the hallway.
The original design had a secondary controller for media and as a ZAP in a room close by. 
I understand all y'alls frustrations.

All wires are individual. 12AWG. Travellers 14AWG.
All going through Poliflex ducts in concrete.

Box 1: Has its own Line, Neutral and Ground. Receives load wires for both loads A and B even though the actual load wires are in Box 3. Travellers 1 and 2 start here connected to Yellow on the switches..

Box 2: Has its own Line (not used), Neutral, and Ground. Load wires for both loads A and B pass through here. Travelers 1 and 2 connected to their KA's. They work fine. As soon as the last segment of T1 and T2 TOUCH the connection on the first KA (Box 2 Yellow) the load turns on. Even if it's disconnected in Box 3.

Box 3: Has its own Line (not used), Neutral, and Ground. Load wires for both loads A and B arrive here and are connected to their respective (real) loads. I believe the lamp's neutral also connect in parallel here.
 

14 hours ago, knowitall said:

Welp 

I mean, the electrician isn't cooperating, I'm trying to figure out the problem to fix it. Maybe it's induced voltage. Maybe it's floating grounds or whatever. Just looking for possible reasons to fix it. I'm not gonna cross my arms and not do anything because sparky won't admit something is wrong with his work, and it would help immensely if I could diagnose it to tell them what to do.

12 hours ago, knowitall said:

So is it wired with 14/2 or 14/3?

line/load in the same box or are you having to carry line to load? 

possible another switch you didn’t take out ? (5-way)

And why does this hallway need two different 4-way switches? Seems nuisance to me to have to turn on two switches when I wanna walk down a hall...

 

Electrician made a mess with wiring and codes aren't enforced. Each box has their own individual L/N/G. I don't know the exact path the individual wires take.

We asked for the actual loads to be in box A, but originally got wired to box C. They relocated them to box A, but they do travel from C to A.
Point A is well within the Zigbee radius. There's no ZAP beyond point C and the hallway's geometry is too much of a jump to be reliable.

No other switches. If I connect the switches in box A, they work. If I add KAs in box B, they work. When I try to connect KAs in box C, they won't turn off.

One is the actual hallway's indirect lighting and the other is a garden behind glass walls that goes aaaall the way along the hallway. Depending on the "vibe" he wants a button for each.

I'm finishing up a new install. There's a long hallway and we have 2 switches wired to be turned on on 3 points of the hallway.

Point A has the 2 switches.

Point B (middle) has 2 Auxiliary Keypads.

Point C (end) has another 2 Auxiliary Keypads.

We have done 4-way before, but this time, something weird happens. When I connect the switches from point A to point B's auxiliary keypads, everything works fine.

The MOMENT the (completely disconnected) traveler wire from point B to point C TOUCHES the yellow connection (where first traveller connects to the KA) the switch turns on. If I press any bottom button, the load turns off until I let go. Then it turns back on. This happens independently of which KA we connect. Point A to B has about 15m. Point A to C has about 10m. The wires were pulled out and new ones pulled in. Behavior continues. 

Everything is 120V. Hot, neutral, and ground present in all wallboxes.

Any insight is appreciated. 

It would be great if it worked as IR IO, but really I just need it for ZAP purposes. Any way to get a nerfed driver for simple use?