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About Uh-Wise

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    Control4 End User

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  1. Most of the Fans we control have light fixtures in the center. Sometimes it's a surprise fan change last minute. And having to waste a gang on "Fan Light" sucks for everyone.
  2. Thank you. Do you know who'll be acting as the server? The director or the VTO?
  3. We have a Dahua VTO2111. I see it works as a SIP device. I also know Control4 does that too. Is there a way to make a video call from that VTO Doorstation to the T3 or T4 touchscreen?
  4. Hi, Cyknight. Big fan. Any insights on why I can't see the Intercom menu in the OS3 app (Android)? Agent is running. Devices Idle. Tech said it was the HC800.
  5. Since Intercom Anywhere is going away on OS3 systems, I'm scared that maybe I can't see the Intercom setting in the [Android] app because it's running an HC800.
  6. I wouldn't REMOVE the HC800, I'd switch directors (so the project "runs" on an EA) and keep them in their current IO duties.
  7. @BraydonHIt's on Android. Can't see the Intercom menu. Agent is running and devices Idle. A tech said "It's because you're on an HC800. Upgrade to EA or roll back to 2.10.6", but it was working fine on 3.1.
  8. Hi. Complicated situation. House runs on an HC800 installed years ago. We wanted to upgrade to OS3, and since we only use the on-screen navigator in the master bedroom, we added an EA1 for more IO, as a ZAP, and navigator. We also have a DS2, WALL7, and a TT7. The problem is, we don't see the native "Intercom" on the OS3 app. Apparently, it's because the director is an HC800 (is this accurate?). The DS2 rings on Intercom Anywhere, but I understand it'll stop working for OS3 devices in the next month. First... is this right? Or do we need to tweak something to get "Intercom" working o
  9. Hi, I recall there being an iComfort driver from HouseLogix, but can't find it over at driverCentral. Does the Lennox iComfort Driver still exist? It's for an M30 model. Thank you in advance for your help.
  10. Contradiction: "Hey, the second I touch this wire, even unplugged, it activates the switch. Something is wrong with it." Electrician offered to replace them and they did. I didn't witness the changing of the wires. We didn't pull them. I don''t have the exact route the wires take, if they share a section of the way with other wires, or if they coincide in a junction box. Also, I don't how or where the neutral comes from. I have the exact same suspicion you presented. This post was to get insight from others who may have had experience with KA issues and may be able to diagnose by ear so we can
  11. All wires are individual. 12AWG. Travellers 14AWG. All going through Poliflex ducts in concrete. Box 1: Has its own Line, Neutral and Ground. Receives load wires for both loads A and B even though the actual load wires are in Box 3. Travellers 1 and 2 start here connected to Yellow on the switches.. Box 2: Has its own Line (not used), Neutral, and Ground. Load wires for both loads A and B pass through here. Travelers 1 and 2 connected to their KA's. They work fine. As soon as the last segment of T1 and T2 TOUCH the connection on the first KA (Box 2 Yellow) the load turns on. Even if it
  12. I mean, the electrician isn't cooperating, I'm trying to figure out the problem to fix it. Maybe it's induced voltage. Maybe it's floating grounds or whatever. Just looking for possible reasons to fix it. I'm not gonna cross my arms and not do anything because sparky won't admit something is wrong with his work, and it would help immensely if I could diagnose it to tell them what to do.
  13. Electrician made a mess with wiring and codes aren't enforced. Each box has their own individual L/N/G. I don't know the exact path the individual wires take. We asked for the actual loads to be in box A, but originally got wired to box C. They relocated them to box A, but they do travel from C to A. Point A is well within the Zigbee radius. There's no ZAP beyond point C and the hallway's geometry is too much of a jump to be reliable. No other switches. If I connect the switches in box A, they work. If I add KAs in box B, they work. When I try to connect KAs in box C, they won't turn o
  14. I'm finishing up a new install. There's a long hallway and we have 2 switches wired to be turned on on 3 points of the hallway. Point A has the 2 switches. Point B (middle) has 2 Auxiliary Keypads. Point C (end) has another 2 Auxiliary Keypads. We have done 4-way before, but this time, something weird happens. When I connect the switches from point A to point B's auxiliary keypads, everything works fine. The MOMENT the (completely disconnected) traveler wire from point B to point C TOUCHES the yellow connection (where first traveller connects to the KA) the switch turns on. If I
  15. It would be great if it worked as IR IO, but really I just need it for ZAP purposes. Any way to get a nerfed driver for simple use?
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