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  1. Client has an OLD Bose Lifestyle V20 and also has 2 SA amplifiers for Zone 2 and 3. He refuses to add more/different amplifiers since "they're still good" and have HDMI in. The system works, and there's a driver for the Lifestyle V20 on the database, but no Zone 2/3 connections. Does anybody know: 1) If there's an efficient way to integrate them with Control4 (with volume control) or 2) If I use another Lifestyle driver like the 525 which does support Zones, will it work with the V20? Please and thank you, any insight is greatly appreciated.
  2. Most of the Fans we control have light fixtures in the center. Sometimes it's a surprise fan change last minute. And having to waste a gang on "Fan Light" sucks for everyone.
  3. Thank you. Do you know who'll be acting as the server? The director or the VTO?
  4. We have a Dahua VTO2111. I see it works as a SIP device. I also know Control4 does that too. Is there a way to make a video call from that VTO Doorstation to the T3 or T4 touchscreen?
  5. Hi, Cyknight. Big fan. Any insights on why I can't see the Intercom menu in the OS3 app (Android)? Agent is running. Devices Idle. Tech said it was the HC800.
  6. Since Intercom Anywhere is going away on OS3 systems, I'm scared that maybe I can't see the Intercom setting in the [Android] app because it's running an HC800.
  7. I wouldn't REMOVE the HC800, I'd switch directors (so the project "runs" on an EA) and keep them in their current IO duties.
  8. @BraydonHIt's on Android. Can't see the Intercom menu. Agent is running and devices Idle. A tech said "It's because you're on an HC800. Upgrade to EA or roll back to 2.10.6", but it was working fine on 3.1.
  9. Hi. Complicated situation. House runs on an HC800 installed years ago. We wanted to upgrade to OS3, and since we only use the on-screen navigator in the master bedroom, we added an EA1 for more IO, as a ZAP, and navigator. We also have a DS2, WALL7, and a TT7. The problem is, we don't see the native "Intercom" on the OS3 app. Apparently, it's because the director is an HC800 (is this accurate?). The DS2 rings on Intercom Anywhere, but I understand it'll stop working for OS3 devices in the next month. First... is this right? Or do we need to tweak something to get "Intercom" working on the native OS3 app running off an HC800. Now, second: if not, would it be possible to "switch" directors? It's a small project, and I believe the EA1 can handle it. But what would the process be to change the director from the HC800 to the EA1? Maybe I'll use an EA3 instead of the HC800 int he future, but for now... Any tips? Thank you in advance for your help.
  10. Hi, I recall there being an iComfort driver from HouseLogix, but can't find it over at driverCentral. Does the Lennox iComfort Driver still exist? It's for an M30 model. Thank you in advance for your help.
  11. Contradiction: "Hey, the second I touch this wire, even unplugged, it activates the switch. Something is wrong with it." Electrician offered to replace them and they did. I didn't witness the changing of the wires. We didn't pull them. I don''t have the exact route the wires take, if they share a section of the way with other wires, or if they coincide in a junction box. Also, I don't how or where the neutral comes from. I have the exact same suspicion you presented. This post was to get insight from others who may have had experience with KA issues and may be able to diagnose by ear so we can fix it (grounding something, ferrite, jumping stuff...) 3rd Box is too far from the last Zigbee node. Even the 2nd Box is a bit too far, and there are 2 concrete walls between box 1 and 2, and 3 walls between 2 and 3. (The hallway branches into smaller ones). I wanted to use keypads but the client was/is penny-pinching and insisted he just wanted 2 buttons for the 2 important points of the hallway. The original design had a secondary controller for media and as a ZAP in a room close by. I understand all y'alls frustrations.
  12. All wires are individual. 12AWG. Travellers 14AWG. All going through Poliflex ducts in concrete. Box 1: Has its own Line, Neutral and Ground. Receives load wires for both loads A and B even though the actual load wires are in Box 3. Travellers 1 and 2 start here connected to Yellow on the switches.. Box 2: Has its own Line (not used), Neutral, and Ground. Load wires for both loads A and B pass through here. Travelers 1 and 2 connected to their KA's. They work fine. As soon as the last segment of T1 and T2 TOUCH the connection on the first KA (Box 2 Yellow) the load turns on. Even if it's disconnected in Box 3. Box 3: Has its own Line (not used), Neutral, and Ground. Load wires for both loads A and B arrive here and are connected to their respective (real) loads. I believe the lamp's neutral also connect in parallel here.
  13. I mean, the electrician isn't cooperating, I'm trying to figure out the problem to fix it. Maybe it's induced voltage. Maybe it's floating grounds or whatever. Just looking for possible reasons to fix it. I'm not gonna cross my arms and not do anything because sparky won't admit something is wrong with his work, and it would help immensely if I could diagnose it to tell them what to do.
  14. Electrician made a mess with wiring and codes aren't enforced. Each box has their own individual L/N/G. I don't know the exact path the individual wires take. We asked for the actual loads to be in box A, but originally got wired to box C. They relocated them to box A, but they do travel from C to A. Point A is well within the Zigbee radius. There's no ZAP beyond point C and the hallway's geometry is too much of a jump to be reliable. No other switches. If I connect the switches in box A, they work. If I add KAs in box B, they work. When I try to connect KAs in box C, they won't turn off. One is the actual hallway's indirect lighting and the other is a garden behind glass walls that goes aaaall the way along the hallway. Depending on the "vibe" he wants a button for each.
  15. I'm finishing up a new install. There's a long hallway and we have 2 switches wired to be turned on on 3 points of the hallway. Point A has the 2 switches. Point B (middle) has 2 Auxiliary Keypads. Point C (end) has another 2 Auxiliary Keypads. We have done 4-way before, but this time, something weird happens. When I connect the switches from point A to point B's auxiliary keypads, everything works fine. The MOMENT the (completely disconnected) traveler wire from point B to point C TOUCHES the yellow connection (where first traveller connects to the KA) the switch turns on. If I press any bottom button, the load turns off until I let go. Then it turns back on. This happens independently of which KA we connect. Point A to B has about 15m. Point A to C has about 10m. The wires were pulled out and new ones pulled in. Behavior continues. Everything is 120V. Hot, neutral, and ground present in all wallboxes. Any insight is appreciated.
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