Pounce

Exactly why I think just test it for yourself with a/b testing because ultimately just like an audiophile it's all subjective for the person listening.

Garbage in garbage out. I think we need to focus on the source. The data sheets do cover some of the dac info. In reality I'm guessing any serious audiophile isn't going to remotely assume these devices meet their needs. Ceiling speakers aren't exactly audiophile. This is for over thinkers. Do some A/B testing with the same track using the dacs you have to see if you notice a difference.

I think people have more issues with speaker quality, line distance, acoustics, directionally, stereo vs mono etc than dac quality. My episode architectural speakers are mediocre at best. Still sounds fine for house music.

Can we now use an android tablet for intercom within the house?

Glad I waited for the T4's. Would like to see that wall mounted device also go mobile. Looks like it could.

32 minutes ago, msgreenf said:

haven't you learned about me by Now

You don't want me to answer that :)

1 minute ago, msgreenf said:

Pretty sure iOS 14 changed that

You might be right. That would sure be useful.

1 hour ago, zaphod said:

With iPhones?  I thought that Apple severely restricts access to NFC on the iPhone, at least they used to.

No, but neither will that Wifi porter. QR codes for idevices.

5 hours ago, shupp872 said:

Ooooh, that IS nice.  Thanks for that!

FYI you can do this for like $5 with NFC stickers off Amazon. You get the stickers and can program them from your phone.

2 minutes ago, ejn1 said:

Given your wife business you can also look at a Unifi LTE backup to add to your system as failover.    This would connect as a second WAN into the UDM Pro and if you have a glitch in service,   The LTE would kick in assuming you have Cellular service at your home. 

That's a good suggestion. I run cable and ATT, but the LTE suggestion is solid. You can do this really cheap these days or it really is a lot less expensive than in the past.

44 minutes ago, Elvis said:

Yes, my USG gets so hot you can't touch it. So my plan is:

UDM-Pro <-
-> AP Upstairs
-> AP Downstairs
-> In-Wall AP/Switch (forget the model #) wife's office (AP will give better coverage to porch nearby)
-> Switch24
-> Switch8

 

I have essentially this setup.

I also have a USG in a second install and I was curious about your heat comment. I just hit it with my FLIR camera and it's running about 100F. I think it runs about 30% cpu. Weird yours is so hot...not sure I need to fondle my USG all that much, but I don't think it should be too hot to touch. Maybe you need a software update?

I have this setup. Works well.

35 minutes ago, Elvis said:

As soon as you guys send a link to the switch that won't work when there is a fork or spoon in the damn garbage disposal, then I'll be impressed.

Nice. I actually buy twice as many spoons as all other utensils for this reason. Once a year I also polish all the bite marks off and put them back in rotation.

I have those super quiet disposals that can disappear a whole chicken. We've tried the SilverSaver Sink Stopper's and they work pretty good.

1 hour ago, brantlmcdonald said:

It’s ok for you to be wrong .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice try. I'm guessing you also subscribe to Q and watch fox news. lol/

3 minutes ago, brantlmcdonald said:

The voltage is behind a non metallic face like every other switch in a house; not sure why a disposal switch is any more reason for concern than a light switch. Every receptacle you’re plugging devices into has voltage as well.

And having one hand in the sink while the disposal is running is never a good idea.

You guys sure like to argue the small stuff.

When comparing an air switch to a non air switch the air switch is safer. I don't think we need to argue that point. I wont bother.

32 minutes ago, RyanE said:

I think if I were to replace it, I definitely like the idea of the momentary switch, so you have to hold it to activate the disposal.

I hadn't heard of those before.

RyanE

An air switch can be momentary or toggle. I recommend you check them out if you switch one day. lol.

http://presair.com/shop/garbage-disposal-air-button/

https://insinkerator.emerson.com/en-us/shop/insinkerator/insinkerator-stsdualoutlet

29 minutes ago, brantlmcdonald said:

Why would you think that ?

 

Momentary contact switch is also non metallic, and shuts off immediately when you let go.

 

Because momentary contact switch has voltage in the switch unless you have some special type of non electric momentary switch in mind.

I'd also point out that requiring one hand to be on the switch while another hand is operating the usage of the disposal is less safe than having two hands available.

2 minutes ago, brantlmcdonald said:

The momentary contact switch that was discussed in the post above yours is designed for garbage disposals. In fact usually the box or marketing material for them will say “disposal switch.”


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Perhaps, but these are not as safe as an air switch.

I believe the only safe switch for a garbage disposal in the sink is an air switch. These have a few advantages. 1) the button is small and can be installed on the counter in a through hole next to the faucet within reach of even the most span challenged people 2) they are completely safe with wet hands 3) they typically have a timed auto off setting so if you turn it on it will go off after say 20 seconds.

2 hours ago, appliedautomation said:

We only required MQTT to publish data to ThingsBoard. I ended up writing our own driver last night to do this instead and its working well so far.

Curious about what you are doing with Thingsboard. What data are you publishing and how are you using it on the Thingsboard side?

no

21 minutes ago, Elvis said:

I would give this careful consideration. Always hot means you're counting on C4 to work, the Bond IO driver to work, the Bond device/hardware to work, and the WIFI to be working. And Mitch is is an expert in all of this, meaning when something goes wrong he fixes it himself (I would assume, anyway).

But wiring hot eliminates the cost of retrofitting wall switches. Pulling wire 4 times to 4 wall switches could easily make this an easy decision, at least cost-wise.

 

I think I'd make it clear to wire the junction box for the fan "normally". Meaning run two circuits from the wall location. An electrician would do this out of habbit/code anyway so don't ask them to do it any different.

For sure if you wire hot you want the controller to work. If it doesn't it also would not work when you toggle the power using a switch. If you need to toggle power when you wire the box hot you can always flip the breaker.

As noted these controllers use a remote and can be controlled using wifi. When your wifi goes down they actually fall back to AP mode so you can still access them.

1 minute ago, zaphod said:

it might be useful to have C4 widgets on your home screen.

Sure would!

53 minutes ago, htjunkie said:

Seems to be working fine through Hue hub, can dim and all.  Very responsive as well, just thought if there might be a way to get it integrated directly with C4.

You are sort of DIY, right? If you had to make it work you can go from zigbee to MQTT to C4 and back. Probably better to just buy things that integrate with C4 though.

Easiest solution is to simply use different bulbs and call it a day.

I say good plan. You have clearly researched.

6 minutes ago, RyanE said:

Not sure why you posted this in what is one of the oldest threads on this board.

Or even on a dedicated Control4 forum.

RyanE

How's the pandemic treating you? Looks like this is a new member. So it's either a real person that is not super experienced or skilled in forum use OR it's a bot laying down a history in the forum.