rocky350z

Is there any update on the mini app ability?

Hi,

I just replaced my UPD-Pro after it had been down for a few months.  After installing the new one, resetting the switches and access points, re-adopting everything, and updating all the firmware, I am experiencing the APs disconnecting and reconnecting.  I have two APs, and both are UAP-nanoHD.  The weird thing is they both drop and reconnect at the same time.  This is happening multiple times a day.  

I have turned off messing, turned off managed by Global AP Settings, turned off band steering, and turned off nightly channel optimization.

The only thing I can think of is they are set to DHCP and not static. (I had everything set to static prior to the UDM Pro switch out).

Has anyone experienced this?  Does anyone have any ideas?

On 9/19/2023 at 9:02 PM, msgreenf said:

Check time on controller 

Thank you, The time looked right, but I went ahead an d changed it to another city in the same time zone, it reset and now it works.

My EA5 would not check-in, nor could my dealer log into it.  When I would go to the Contorl4 site it showed the EA5 just fine.  I read a post on here where that happened, and the end user unregistered the controller and re-registered it.  So I tried that.  The control4 site gives me the 10 digit code just fine but when I go to register it in Composer HE I get the following:

Registering controller...
Controller is not registered
Error while communicating with the Web Services.  Fault = HTTP/1.1 403 Forbidden LSE = 0
 

Does anyone know what that error is and how to fix it?

Hi, I have been searching the Modern Forms Fan site and cannot find the Control4 driver.  They still advertise as Control4 integration but for some reason when they redid their site it is not listed, or that I can find.  I am hoping one of you has the link to the driver.  I need to get 4 added to the system. Thanks,

7 hours ago, msgreenf said:

Use modern forms fan. Free driver and great quiet fans. Way more affordable then big ass fans 

I have three Modern Form Fans and going to buy another.  As stated, they are incredibly quiet.  Occasionally you can find them on sale on Amazon.

I am looking for someone that would be willing to help me fix and setup a Unifi network. 

Recently as in 3 days ago my UDM Pro decided to spontaneously factory reset itself. After the reset, it worked for about 5 minutes then went into recovery mode.  I touch the screen to allow it to recover and it went through the process but went right back into recovery mode.  I then manually reset the UDM-Pro and it worked for 5 minutes but again went into recovery mode.  When it did work for 5 minutes, although it would not adopt anything as it said they were under another controller.  Since the switch is right there in the rack, I did try to reset both the switch and the UDM and which allowed the UDM to adopt it, but shortly after the UDM went back into recovery mode.  I contacted Unifi by email, but never heard a response.  I looked up the receipt, which was from B&H, an authorized Unifi dealer and noticed I purchase it 2/24/21, with a confirmed delivery date of 3/5/21, so I filled out an RMA since it was within 2-years of delivery. I received notice from Unifi that since I did not purchase it directly from Unifi it only had 1-year warranty from the time B&H received it (I know weird right) and not the 2-year warranty you get when purchasing direct, which starts the time it is delivered.

I have the following:

• Spectrum 1 gig internet with their modem.
• Ubiquiti UDM-Pro
• Ubiquiti US-24 Unifi Switch
• Ubiquiti Unifi Switch 16 port 150W
• Ubiquiti UniFi nanoHD Compact 802.11ac Wave2 MU-MIMO Enterprise Access Point (UAP-NANOHD-US) x 2 (2200 sq ft, 3 story townhome)

Long story short is:

• Have any of you seen this problem before?
• Is it fixable locally, or do I need to purchase a new UDM-Pro?
• Once I get if fixed or a new unit is there anyone willing to help setup the network properly (For a fee of course)? I would like to have everything with a static IP, as things change then they drop of the C4 automation.

I look forward to the group’s thoughts, about this issue and future network programming.

I have a Silver Neeo remote, with box and original packaging. Make offer, I will include shipping. 

19 hours ago, Amr said:

I would say Ubiquiti UniFi UAP-6, also set it and forget it, just don’t waste hours tweaking it and screwing everything in the process, leave it vanilla and u will get incredible throughput, performance and compatibility …

I have Ubiquiti Unifi with 2 APs, also set up a 2.4 Wi-Fi only for the Neeo, and still have troubles with it constantly losing the signal.  I also have zero problems with everything else on the network.  I have had so many problems with the Neeo if have completely pulled it off the system.  Not worth the headache, and not heavy enough to even be used as an expensive boat anchor.  

If you are looking for a Silver Neeo, I will take Best Offer.

On 11/16/2022 at 7:14 AM, IntrinsicGroup said:

If you are a dealer with an existing showroom license for our Apple TV driver and would like to help beta test the new MiniApps driver please drop us a DM.

Do we have any update on the Mini Apps?

I have a Neeo Control4 Silver remote for sale.  Comes with all original box, accessories and packing.  Asking $500

Here is my two cents from a end user that prewired for a three story townhome with 5 tv locations.

• I ran tubes to each tv location for future proofing.  I also have an equipment rack in a central location.
• In each tube I eventually ran 3 cat 6, and a coax.  In addition to the master location I ran Fiber.  (This is to play the central located Xbox)
• I ran Cat6 (dual runs)  also to locations where I though I would have computer, i.e. 2 locations (4 total lines) in the office, 1 in each bedroom, 1 to the garage. (Remember the cat6 is cheep to run up front, nor so much afterwards
• 3 cat 6 for access points on each level for WIFI (3 total runs)
• 1 cat6 to the door bell (For chime)
• 1 cat 6 to the porch for a camera
• 1 cat 6 to over the garage door for a camera
• If you are even thinking about touch screens in the rooms prewire now
• I have security run to each of the windows and touch panels in the master and by the garage door (This cam with the house standard so I did not have much input)
• Here was my one MISTAKE, I have 23 automated blinds all run by batter.  I HIGHLY suggest you run a low voltage 12V line to EVERY window. I promise you will not regret it if you are considering automated blinds
• 1 have 9 speaker locations.  Main theater/Living area, dining, kitchen, garage, 3 bedrooms, porch, and master bath.  All pre wired back to the equipment rack. (The theater/living is all wired back to the equipment closet for in wall and ceiling speakers, as well as floor standing and 2 subs.  I eventually went with floor standing and subs with ceiling, but the in-wall is still there if I ever want to get ride of the floor standing)

I think that was everything I pre ran.  For each room I did not go with a touch screen (wire is there for future) but went with a keypad.  I have 2 gang in most rooms, some have three.  I am slowly adding to my system but this is my plan for each room.

Every room has recessed lights which are being switched the Philips Hue, I already have Somfy blinds (with the Bond Pro for control) in each room, and Samsung TVs (Q60s and Q80s for IP control) with Roku's for app control, I plan to add Modern Forms Fans for IP control, and each room has or is prewired for ceiling speakers.

1st switch is a Dimmer (that is going to be programed as always on (For Hue Lights). Top button, turns light on warm, touch again cold light, touch again cycle through colors. Bottom will turn off.

2nd switch is a Keypad:

• 1 - Fan (Cycle speeds, press hold off, light to show speed  on/off)
• 2 - Shades (Cycle, preset open, full open, closed)
• 3 - TV (Cycle preset, i.e. spectrum, Netflix, YouTube, press hold off)
• 4 - Audio (In Ceiling Speakers, cycle through preset with color notification)
• 5 - room off
• 6 - arrows - volume

A lot of what I am doing is still some work in progress, but this is from a end user that uses the system everyday. Please feel free to reach out if you have any questions.  Just remember prewire EVERYTHING you might possible want, the worst case is a wire stays behind the dry wall.  

Rocky

Chopedogg88 is correct you can order from Ali.  I just ordered 2 and it is $42 with the shipping, but again he is correct that I am waiting about 6 weeks to get them.

Selling a AVPro Edge AC-MX1616 Chassis Matrix for sale, setup as 8 HDMI inputs, 2 Cat6 outputs and 4 HDMI outputs.

AC-MX1616-AUHD-CHASSIS with cards and Baluns, I am looking for offers.

I would rather sell this on this forum rather than E-Bay, everything is currently hooked up and operational, just looking at selling the house, so changing the setup before putting on the market.

 AVPro Edge’s 4K60 (4:4:4) Modular Matrix Switcher has up to 16 inputs and 16 outputs

·         18Gbps Bandwidth Support,  4K60 4:4:4 Support, HDR Support (HDR 10 & 12 Bit), Dolby Vision, HDR10+ and HLG Support,  ATMOS, HDCP 2.3  Advanced EDID Management, IR, RS-232 and LAN Control, Includes Audio Downmixing·          

Current input cards include:

·         AC-MX1616-IN-AUHD-AVDM 2 inputs, times 2 cards (These have audio down mixing built in), and AC-MX1616-IN-AUHD 2 inputs, times 2 cards          

Current output cards include:

·         AC-MX1616-OUT-HDBT 2 outputs, times 1 card (for use with Cat6 and Baluns, which are included)and AC-MX1616-OUT-AUHD-NS 2 outputs, times 2 card          

Current Baluns

·         RX 4K60 HDR 444 receivers times 2          

Still under full transferable warranty through the dealer I purchased it from, looking for offers.

Thank you all for your feedback, you have given me a lot of ideas and something to think about.  I am still a little confused on the programing of the switch.  Cyknight stated "Personally I would program them to change the warmth on tune-able white - maybe a double and triple tap top an bottom to select favorite colors instead".  Does that mean I can still use the switch to turn it on to a specific state, or on/off? The bottom to change preset colors?

For strip lighting could I do the same?  Would I need a DMX controller to get three stirp to display the same thing (One switch control 3 plugs above three areas of the cabinet)?

Thank you for your input.

Now that control4 is integrating the color wheel into the platform I have a few questions for the group regarding RGBW lighting.

Currently my house is setup with all control4 dimmers (wireless wall switches, not panel).  Each room has approximately 4 in-ceiling LED dimmable cans (all the low-profile style) wired to the one switch.  What would you suggest switching the in-ceiling lights out to, if I wanted to do RGBW control (not only for added color but also for the white color temperature)?  Regarding programming, being they are on the wall switch, do they default to the last setting when turned on, or do they need to be reset each time, and will the dimming function still work?

In addition, when I built the house 3 years ago, I had 2 switches installed for LED strips above and below the kitchen cabinets (1 for each) and have yet to install them.  I would also like to add RGBW led strips to be controlled by Control4 in this location, do you have any suggestions for this?  Also, the same question when turned them on/off how will they default?  I also would like to add another feature to the Cabinet lighting that I am not sure is even possible being it is a large open room plan.  I would like to have them automatically come on in specific colors when certain sports games are on TV.  I.E. the lightning is playing at 8PM tonight is there a way somehow for a signal to be sent to Control4 to turn the cabinet lighting on when the game starts to Blue and White?  When Bucs games start to Red and White, USF Football (I know its sad) Green and Gold.  I think it would be a cool factor and be a reminder the game has started.

I appreciate all the great information you all give from this forum

2 hours ago, adam333 said:

under $2000.   More than that, it would make more sense to just put local equipment at the TVs

I have a AVPro AC-MX1616 AUHD-CHASSIS with 8 inputs and 6 outputs (both can be expanded to 16x16). Still under full warranty.  I would be willing to sell it to you for very close to your budget.  I also have 2  AC-EX100-444-R Gen Baluns.

18 hours ago, TFlury said:

You already have a mono price matrix so......

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=24180

I also have it in my house because I cant drop the $$$ on an AVPro. I think there is a one way driver for it on a facebook group but I don't know the capabilities it has. I built my own driver for it vs looking for one else where.

 

I have a AVPro Matrix for sale if you are interested, Full 4K, Atmos. I am willing to accept offers.  Control4 drivers are already built in.

Correct - I also have 2 HDBaseT receivers included. If you need more cards the dealer I purchased it from can get you the cards for up to 16 in 16 out 

If anyone is interested, I am willing to look at Best Offer.

I also would accept offers to trade for control4 programming and a few Traid speakers, some fan switches, some NYCE motion sensors, a couple of drivers, and switch engraving.

Rocky

Selling a AVPro Edge AC-MX1616 for sale, setup as 8 inputs 6 outputs

AC-MX1616-AUHD-CHASSIS with cards and Baluns

On 3/16/2022 at 12:33 AM, booch said:

You can do this. I have many circuits (up to 5 or 6-way) using either a dimmer or keypad dimmer (i.e., load handling) as the primary and a configurable keypad (i.e., no load handling) as a secondary. In my case, I used the latter over the 'aux' dimmers because they're not backlit (let alone configurable for using the extra button spaces).

To make it work you need to set the range correctly in Composer (min on = 100, no ramping) on the primary, make a few connections and, depending on how you're wired, you may have to repurpose the traveler wire to get both hot/neutral to the configurable keypad(s). Happy to help more if needed.

Check the tube LEDs that you put in, many are dimmable.  I have tube LEDs in my garage and they are dimmable, which solves your problems completely.

On 3/1/2022 at 3:24 PM, CTMatthew said:

If a client put my proposal on a public forum for input I'd return their deposit and end our working relationship. This just isn't a productive way to proceed. If you don't trust your dealer find another one. if you have questions about what you're buying ask your dealer. This is like hiring a personal chef. By nature you're outsourcing some control to someone else. That's built entirely on trust. This action demonstrates a complete lack of trust. 

I look at this completely the opposite.  Maybe he should have left out the pricing, I could agree with that. BUTTTTT, why would you not want your client to make a educated decision.  This sounds like a completely controlling dealer relationship, if you would not want your client to understand options.  As in you do it my way or you dead to me. 

On 2/25/2022 at 10:09 PM, cjh said:

I’d opt for an EA3 instead of the EA1. Gives you room to expand. IMHO you’d be capping yourself out on day 1 w/the EA1. 
 

I would also get the Composer Home Edition (HE) bundle which comes with 1 yr of 4sight. It is just a little bit more money and gives you a perpetual license to make programming changes to your system. 
 

I’d ask for a lot more detail on the home Wi-Fi line item for $3500. How many APs…model…# runs they will need to do. Unless your home is 15k sq ft or more my gut says that is excessive. 

Finally, ask/think about some keypads in place of or in addition to the lighting switches. We use our keypads all the time to activate scenes - like going outside to grill one button on the keypad turns on lightning, music, etc. A keypad press puts the house to sleep at night etc. Keypads (engraved) are really useful.  

imho

 I second the EA3, I have EA5 in a 2200 sq ft with 23-Blinds, 5-TVs, Security, 3-Thermostats, Chime, Camera's, 30+ lights, 7-keypads (one in each room) and now want to upgrade to CA-10 for speed :).  So my recommendation is to start with a EA5 especially if you plan on adding on.  Also I second the Keypads in the rooms, mine are used daily.