BY96

43 minutes ago, Popolou said:

If you want to expand on the issue, there could be a solution - presumably this is regarding a VPN routing/DNS issue? I am unfamiliar with the OS but there may be a way to add an exception through the CLI if SSH access is available.

I sent you a PM. 

Pretty sure DNS rebinding is a way for hackers to hack your PC.  Why do you need this protection removed??

I don’t want to turn off the protection, just add an exception to run a program. However, my issue may be entirely unrelated to rebinding.

And if doing an exception opens up significant vulnerability, I won’t do it.


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Hello,

 

I am hoping someone can help. I am running an Araknis 220 router. Long story short, although it is way over my head, the working theory is that the router is blocking “DNS rebinding” and I need to setup an exception in the router. I cannot find anywhere to do it. Does anyone know if such an exception is possible with the router and if so, where do I do it?

 

Thank you!

 

 

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I have been running a new AN-220-SW-R-24-POE for a few weeks now. It is my first POE switch so I am not sure what to expect. The switch is running about 20% of its 190watts for POE and the current temp is registering at 90 degrees F. The fan seems to always be on, which is fine, but last night, the switch started making a slightly whining sound, like almost a quiet whistle. I had moved the switch in the rack one slot down, but otherwise, have not made any changes. The fan to the right side is completely unblocked. I am assuming the current 90 degree temp is fine but should I be considered about the new noise? 

Thanks! 

Just now, Dueport said:

That's too bad that they don't make a UK version of their US in-wall outlet - we have several and they work very well. Hopefully a version of it gets to the UK soon.

I stand corrected. I did not realize Kasa made in-wall outlets! I just looked it up and found the KP200. I had never seen that before. 

As I was wrong about any in-wall outlet by them, there may very well be a UK version. 

3 hours ago, Alex Bate said:

I see the power strip and the plugs but no Kasa UK wall outlets?

https://www.tp-link.com/uk/home-networking/smart-plug/

If you are meaning the actual outlet itself (like hard-wired), Kasa doesn't make any, just plugins and strips. If you need an actual outlet, I am not sure of any that are directly compatible with Control4, but some may work with the Core controllers using Z-wave. I know a lot of smart outlets use Z-wave, so I would think some would be compatible with the new Core controllers. 

My bad. There are Kasa in-wall outlets in the US. Never seen them before. If there are no UK options, you could still see if a different brand that uses Z-wave would work with a Core controller. 

This idea may or may not help. When I first had my C4 system set up, I wanted full access to the menus on my JVC projector. The dealer set up an entirely separate room for JVC controls, so that I would just switch to that “room” and be able to make changes in the JVC menu. However, I never ended up using it, so I eventually hid the room. But it is an option.


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Where do you see this?

@msgreenf posted about it yesterday on a different thread about the same topic.


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Thanks everyone. I ended up just spending more and buying another U7. There are a lot of times (every weekday morning, in fact), where I am sitting in my driveway waiting for my kids to take them to school. The WiFi has been weak there, making me switch off WiFi for LTE and then forgetting to switch it back on when I get home. So, I do want the garage AP to be on the same SSID for those times. Thanks again. 

5 minutes ago, msgreenf said:

Use the security light driver. Much simpler 

Thanks. Is that the free one on the Control4 drivers list? 

I have a few Lutron motion sensors. I have them programmed in HE to turn on lights to a dim setting when motion is detected. For example, when motion is detected in our master closet between the hours of 7am to 10pm, the closet lights are turned on at 50%. When motion is no longer detected, there is a brief delay, and then the lights are turned off. 

Sometimes, I need the lights at full brightness. If I wait for the motion sensor to turn on the lights at 50%, I can then hit the button for 100%. But if I hit the button first for 100%, and then the sensor detects motion, the brightness is dropped to 50%. 

So, I thought I could get around this by setting up the programming to say that when the sensor detects motion, IF it is between 7am and 10pm AND the lights are off, turn the lights on at 50%. This way, the motion sensor would not trigger anything if the lights were already turned on manually. However, it doesn't work and I can't figure out why. 

I've included a screenshot of the programming to see if anyone knows why it isn't working. Thanks. 

On a different topic, but still Unifi-related, is there any real-world problem with mixing APs of different generations? I have three of the new WiFi 7 APs in the house and am thinking of adding a fourth AP to the garage to help with some devices in the front of the house. I was thinking of saving a little money and buying the U6+, but my reading online has found some people who say that it could be a small problem to mix generations. Any thoughts? 

The easy solution here is just to get a Cloud Key and keep everything else that you have. The main thing you won’t get is traffic identification (since you don’t have a unifi router).


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A CloudKey+ arrives tomorrow!


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4 minutes ago, Cyknight said:

Which could mean the AP is using meshing not it's network cable.

I came across this possibility today, as one AP briefly showed up in the Unifi controller as meshing. I reset the APs and turned off meshing as an option to eliminate this possibility. 

But the one AP that showed it was meshing was still connected to the controller software, and I would think that even in meshing mode, the APs will still appear in the controller software, as they are still apart of the Unifi system. So while the meshing was a concern that popped up today, I don't think it is related to the APs disconnecting from the controller software. 

Today, I removed all three APs from the Unifi controller software and re-added them. So far today, I have had no disconnects, but the real test will come tonight. 

55 minutes ago, Control4Savant said:

Not exactly. Unifi does not have any rear port switches for example. Network switches are all somewhat the same and usually pretty good by any brand. Now that Araknis routers have OVRC and a half decent firewall they are not an awful choice. Id still use a more advanced firewall.. so thats 3 brands. 

 

Network management software is really just for convenience. Most network parameters are universal. The macbook going to sleep doesnt cause APs to go offline.  I know this because I run lots of networks both ways. 

Yes! Since the network gear is in my master closet, which is open to the master bathroom, I wanted to make the equipment look as clean as possible for WAF. Having multiple patch cords on the face of the gear was not ideal. I was disappointed that Unifi only has front-facing ports. I originally was really interested in the Dream Machine but decided against it in part due to the aesthetics. 

I know my dealer suggested Araknis in part for the OVRC, but a major selling factor for me was that since Araknis and Control4 are the same parent company, no one can point the finger at the other if something goes wrong between the two systems. I hate being caught in between two companies blaming each other. This, and the option for rear facing ports, were the two reasons I chose Araknis over Unifi for the router and switch. Why my dealer suggested Unifi APs over Araknis ones, I am not sure. 

My observations over the past few days have led me to the conclusion that the APs are not going offline, only that they are disconnecting from the laptop-based Unifi controller, which is not a big deal. I was initially concerned, as the message that popped up in the software was that my wiring could be damaged. As I said above, what I haven't understood is why it is never all three APs, but only one or two, that disconnect at a time, or why upon restarting the software in the laptop, they don't all reconnect. Instead, I have to power them down and back up to get them to reconnect to the controller software. 

I wouldn't have posted here in the first place if I had realized this was going to turn into a one brand vs. mixed brands debate. I assumed mixing devices was common enough that it wouldn't generate such discussion. And I don't think my issue (if there even is an issue) has anything to do with mixed brands (other than an all-Unifi system would have the Unifi controller running 24/7, but I can accomplish that with a CloudKey+). 

29 minutes ago, therockhr said:

So what is actually your issue? Is it that the Macbook you have the unifi network application running on is disconnecting to the AP's? If so this is probably due to the fact that the macbook goes to sleep. i dont think you really have a problem at all.

Thank you for getting back to my original question and I hope you are right.

Yes, that is my question, but when the MacBook wakes back up, I would think the APs would reconnect in the controller software, but they don't, and I have to turn off and back on the POE to get them to reappear in the software. And I would assume that if the reason one or two of the APs were disconnecting was the laptop going to sleep, all of them would disconnect, but that has never been the case. However, someone above suggested a possible reason for only some disconnecting. But these were my observations that led to me ask the original question. 

I am hoping you are right, and the issue is simply because I am using a MacBook for the controller (temporarily) and this will be resolved with a 24/7 controller. 

43 minutes ago, Cyknight said:

Just to point out: power is transferred on different pair than the MAIN network connection. Gig uses all pair, but it it still depends on the 'main' two pairs (green/orange) are up. It won't default to the 'extra' pairs if the 'main' data connection is down. PoE powering a device does not equal a good cable/termination for that reason.

This is a very good point and my statement was over simplified. However, I believe the blue light indicates the AP is connected to both power and the main network connection. Per Unifi, a steady blue light is normal operating mode and the AP is broadcasting Wi-Fi. Also, I know that some devices are connected to the AP that appears disconnected in the Unifi controller (my Mac). 

I never realized mixing brands was such a controversial issue, though I can appreciate how it complicates things. That said, I don’t know my dealer’s exact reasons and he may very well contribute to this discussion at some point. However, except for this one issue, I am thrilled with the setup I now have and the price was within my budget.

(quoting error)

Thank you both for your input. I went with the components my dealer recommended and I am really happy with the Araknis router and switch. It may just be a cosmetic thing, but I do like the option of having all the ports in the back given the location of the router and switch in my house as opposed to Unifi that only has ports in the front.  I realize a full system from the same manufacture is simplest, but I have no doubt my dealer has good reasons for the setup he recommended. 

Unfortunately, I am still having problems with at least one AP disconnecting from the controller, but hopefully that will be fixed with a 24/7 controller with the CloudKey+. 

3 minutes ago, msgreenf said:

Then you shouldn't be running it on a laptop w DHCP IP

That is what I figured out and hope is the solution. Once I figured it out, I changed the laptop to static. Probably a stupid mistake but I still cannot figure out why some of the APs would disconnect and others wouldn't. If the laptop's IP changed, I would think all would have dropped. But none have disconnected since I set the IP as static. 

Once the CloudKey+ comes, I won't use the laptop as controller and the CloudKey+ will have a static IP. 

At this point, I am not using the CloudKey but plan to switch to it when it comes. I am only using the controller software on my MacBook. On another thread, I was told the CloudKey+ was the best option for what I want to do. (Maybe multiple threads was a mistake after all.) 

I know that the controller can be used to setup the APs and then not used. However, much of what I have read on Unifi forums is that the APs can be monitored if the controller (CloudKey, PC, Mac, UDM, etc.) is running 24/7. I originally used the Unifi app to setup the APs, but found the controller software to be much more useful. For example, it allows me to lock a device to only one of the APs. 

1 minute ago, msgreenf said:

I don't think you understand how to control your works.

That's probably true. 

As an update, I am wondering if the fact that I am using my MacBook as the Unifi Controller, and the MacBook has not had a static IP address, could be the problem. However, I would think that if that was the cause, all three APs would be disconnected from the controller (but still running). I have just now set a static IP for the MacBook and will see if I have more disconnects from the controller. 

1 hour ago, Shoe said:

I think it would be easier if you stick to one of your threads instead of spreading your issues across multiple threads.

Lots of ways to skin this cat, but the easiest for a DIY person is to get a Dream Machine for those AP's. If you want to mix and match and keep costs down then generally the exchange is greater complexity and care. Saving a few bucks makes sense when you don't have the bucks. Spending the money makes sense when you take a look at the time you will need to spend and check that against how you would value your time.

All that said, if you have a remote dealer or someone that helps you with stuff and you intend to use them in the future, you may want to take their advice on what they are comfortable working with. Unifi is really easy if you are all Unifi and giving remote access to the network when needed is a couple clicks.

I do have a dealer, and he is the one that recommended an Araknis router and switch with Unifi APs. I only "mixed and matched" as that was his advice and he has never led me astray before. Unfortunately, he is out of the country this week, so I thought I could start here as I know there are a lot of Unifi experts on this forum. 

As for the thread, as the other matter was resolved, and I did not get much feedback on it anyways, I decided a new thread might generate more responses. 

As I posted in another thread, I have changed my network from an all Netgear Nighthawk setup to a Arakanis router (220) and switch (24 port 220 series) plus three Unifi WiFi 7 APs. For the most part, the transition has been smooth, except for my DNS server mess up that resulted in the loss of my Core 3 (but I eventually fixed). 

I seem to be having one lingering problem, however. Currently, I am using my MacBook as the controller for the three Unifi APs (but it is not running 24/7). I like how much more control I have over them using a controller. However, I am having repeated instances of the APs showing as being disconnected from the controller. Yet, the actual APs still show a blue ring and I know devices are connected to them. Also, there is no logical pattern to when, or which AP, drops off the controller. For example, when I woke up this morning, two APs were disconnected from the controller (but still had blue lights on and I believe were connected to devices). Yesterday evening, it was the third one that disconnected (the only one that was connected this morning when I woke up). To fix the issue, I simply turn off and back on the POE for the AP, and then it reconnects to the controller. 

The warning message that pops up in the Unifi controller says I may need to replace the cable to the AP. I do not think this is the issue, as it is all three APs that disconnect, the cables are brand new, I tested the connections out prior to setting up the APs, and the APs actually are never losing power (as shown by the blue light that is still on). I also don't think the problem is the POE switch, as again, it shows it is supplying power even when an AP is disconnected in the controller. 

My online research has found the suggestion of removing the APs from the controller and then re-adopting them. I am fine doing this, but I do have a CloudKey+ on order (and it should arrive on Tuesday), so I rather wait and remove the APs when it comes, so I can start fresh with the CloudKey+ as the controller. I also am hoping that just changing the controller may fix the problem (especially since the new controller will run 24/7). 

I know Unifi is not a Control4/SnapOne product, but I also know many people on this forum use Unifi and in general, this group is the best one I know for being helpful without unnecessary commentary/criticism. 

Thanks for any input.