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  1. I see so total number of devices from anyone not just C4 - that makes sense. Thank you.
  2. Thank you for quick feedback. I forgot to say I have a Sonos connect for streaming to whole home audio receiver. Could CA1 use that for streaming? Does that change your recommendation or would you still suggest EA3? Any other reasons why EA3 over CA1 for my use case? Really appreciate your thoughts.
  3. Interesting point - I’m switching to C4 from DIY and have dueling opinions from integrators: one says EA3 other says EA5. Neither said CA1. Given what you’re saying about number of C4 devices being key, I’m wondering if I should start with a CA1 since I would have no C4 devices at start? At start I will have about 65 zwave devices through vera; 15 hue bulbs via hue bridge; 4 zwave locks through C4 zwave bridge; Honeywell security system with about 60 zones; Hayward OmniLogic pool automation; 9 UniFi security cameras; 7 lutron picos via lutron smart bridge pro; monoprice multiroom receiver and amp via third party driver; possible geothermal HVAC control via driver. So at start no C4 devices - does that mean a CA1 could handle all this? Or would EA3 or EA5 be better. In future will add 4+ TVs, 7+ touchscreens, more multiroom audio zones, Neo remotes, gate control, door stations, theater, gym, keypads, etc. so at that point I know I’d need an EA5 and EAs behind the TVs - but this is all far down the road. For now can I get away with a CA1 - maybe even add a touch screen in that case? This way money is going to onboarding current devices and slick touch screen rather than for AV features I won’t use off the bat? Or better to just start with EA3 or EA5 given number of current devices - even if non C4 devices?
  4. I’m looking at doing the same thing and wondering if you ever got your GE zigbee dimmers/switches connected through Vera to C4? I have zwave ones too and understand those interface well with the C4 Vera driver but wondering your experience with the ge zigbee devices through Vera to C4 and also any other non switch/dimmer devices through Vera to C4? Thank you!
  5. Thank for for that feedback - that’s exactly the type of experience that is invaluable and it makes perfect sense given the posts about backlighting. Thank you again - you saved me a lot of expense and frustration!
  6. I’m seriously considering upgrading to C4 from Hubitat (and SmartThings before that) for a number of reasons. One of the biggest issues I have is that we want to have the keypads on the wall properly control lamps in the rooms. Currently, I use Lutron Pico remotes wall mounted nicely in the gang box next to the room light switches. The Pico is connected to a Lutron Smart Bridge Pro, the buttons are mapped in Hubitat to the Cree Connected bulbs connected to Hubitat. Pressing a button turns lamps in room on or off, holding the same button dims up or down depending on the button. At first this worked well (with just those devices on Hubitat) until I connected everything else to Hubitat and the hub can’t handle the load so responsiveness and reliability has been horrible. I’ve tried this with Hue too (same setup but rather than Cree connected bulbs I’ve added Hue bulbs connected through Hue Hub also linked to Hubitat) - this also had responsiveness issue which I had thought was due to using three hubs but now think it may have been due to Hubitat Hub being overloaded. I prefer the Hue route since those bulbs can be configured to stay off if the power glitches in the middle of the night. I’m wondering how people’s experience with C4 has been using a keypad to control lamps in the room. I’m trying to have high reliability - and avoid both lag and popcorn effect. Have you had success avoiding these problems using a C4 keypad with hue bulbs integrated with C4 through Hue hub? What about a Lutron Pico integrated with C4 and mapped to control Hue bulbs? Using Cree connected bulbs via Vera hub (which I think is the only way to integrate with C4?)?
  7. Thank you for responding so quickly - really helpful - that’s a huge benefit then because it reduces clutter. I have motion sensing down because I could bring in motion sensors from my Honeywell panel but I thought I’d need to stick another sensor in somewhere in the room for lux reading. Nice and clean - I like that. Currently I have GE/Jasco ZWave/Zigbee switches and dimmers on every circuit around the house. I believe these are forward phase only and they claim to be compatible with led lights. We have noticed that dimmers seem to cause a pulsating effect sometimes with our dimmable Philips led recessed lights. I wasn’t sure if this was due to the dimmer or the led driver or both. Can anyone hazard a guess as to whether replacing the forward phase only dimmer with the C4 adaptive phase dimmer will fix this problem?
  8. Still learning about C4 here but I believe the Adaptive Phase Dimmer has a lux sensor for turning on backlighting. Can anyone share whether that lux output can be used to program off of beyond just the backlight? In other words, if light level of that sensor reaches a level then turn all the lights in that room on or to a set level?
  9. Looking to switch to C4 and these would be the switch I’d go with. Would love to hear any feedback experience too.
  10. I could really use this too - @liquidfer I will PM you - thank you!
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