sofakng

Is it possible to use the C4-TT7 without the charging base? (ie. can it be configured and charged w/o it)

Does anybody else have problems regarding slowness and inconsistency using the certified LG WebOS driver? It looks like after it turns on the TV, it attempts to connect to the control port but takes 10+ seconds before successfully establishing a connection. Similarly, when I switch devices (ie. inputs), it takes 3-4+ seconds before it responds. I've tested Home Assistant (for troubleshooting) and the TV responds nearly instantly after being turned on. Is this a problem with the Control4 driver? I've also installed the annex WebOS driver which seems to work much better but it hasn't been updated since 2018?

I'm still learning about Zigbee, but Zigbee 3.0 is backwards compatible with both ZHA and ZLL, right? Couldn't a Zigbee 3.0 hub (controller?) support both the Hue bulbs (ZLL) and Control4 (ZHA) ?

Can you share the Control4 Zigbee network with the Hue bulbs? It seems like having two different Zigbee networks might cause interference? I'm also concerned because there are so many protocols using the 2.4 GHz spectrum (WiFi, Bluetooth, Zigbee, etc). Having one Zigbee network should also extend signal range/strength too because the Hue bulbs could extend it?

I'm not familiar with the RF bridge product, but the Z-Wave bridge should support any standard Z-Wave device. That's one of the advantages to Z-Wave (instead of ZigBee). Z-Wave uses standardized device/command classes so every switch, bulb, etc, works the same way. There are sometimes extra features (double/triple tapping a switch, etc) that might not function but the basic commands should work on pretty much everything.

Has anybody made any progress on creating a driver using this bridge and zwavejs2mqtt? If not I might give it a try.

I'm not too familiar with Zigbee (I've used a lot of Z-Wave) but I know that Control4 uses Zigbee for communication between the remotes and controllers. However, it looks like Philips Hue also uses Zigbee for communication between it's hub/bridge and the lights. Is it possible to have both systems use the same Zigbee network? If I understand correctly, Zigbee is a mesh network so this could help both systems transfer messages, etc?

Mine stopped working tonight too. Going to try a controller reboot... (the updated driver didn't fix it) EDIT: Yep, a controller reboot fixed it.

Thanks for the help. I started removing drivers one-by-one and eventually I found the one using that port.

I'm troubleshooting a driver which isn't working properly but it communicates using UDP port 9999. I've removed the driver and rebooted, but there appears to be something else listening on port 9999: ~# netstat -l -p | grep 9999 udp 0 0 0.0.0.0:9999 0.0.0.0:* 4029/director udp 0 0 0.0.0.0:9999 0.0.0.0:* 4029/director How can I tell which other driver(s) are using this port? It doesn't show in Composer Pro -> Network -> IP Network under the list of connections either.

I'm still testing the device but I'm only a tester so I don't have any inside information. I was told it was supposed to be released a few months ago but I'll see what the current status is and I'll also see if I can confirm the price.

It's the same with the app so I'm almost positive it's working correctly but it seems odd to have such a low framerate. I should have performed more research before purchasing but I was mostly concerned with Control4/ONVIF/RTSP support and assumed it would have a higher framerate (ie. at least 30 fps) similar to Ring, etc/

I've just purchased a DoorBird D101S and I've have it temporarily connected to my network (using LAN/POE) but the framerate is pretty terrible. The stream is 1280x720@30 but it appears to be only be 5 or 10 fps max. Is this normal?

That's definitely a good reason if you have an older TV then! I wonder if the annex4 driver monitors the power state of the TV. For example, I've noticed that if my TV turns off due to inactivity (ie. son plays xbox and then turns off xbox manually but doesn't use the remote) then Control4 will think the TV is still on so I need a full off/on cycle on the remote to get everything back on again.

Just wondering, but are there any other advantages to using the annex4 driver except for the toast messages? (instead of using the Control4 provided driver)