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anon2828

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anon2828 last won the day on January 11

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  1. Boy, I was really not trying to start any type of argument. Just providing an alternative view. And yes, for the most part. We attempted to be "smart" about what we hid in the closets such that they were not the main loads for the room, but things like outdoor lights or aux lighting throughout the house. Again, it works for us, and the main point really wasn't that which you are commenting on above.
  2. I can only share my personal experience. My dealer was 100% supportive of hiding switches in the wiring closet, and that is what we did. I have 16 Adaptive Phase Dimmer switches in the wiring closet. We did the same upstairs in another closet. This eliminated having 3, 4, or 6 switches ("piano keyboards") in a room. My goal was a single dimmer or keypad, or at most 2 in logical locations in each room. The result is that each room looks clean as it pertains to light switches. Where needed we have installed Keypads/Dimmer Keypads with 6-buttons to control various house functions or lighting (still trying to work out what works best before ordering the engraved buttons). Overall, I am happy with the results. Yes, panelized lighting (which I explored in depth) could have made for an even cleaner layout, but I feel that I have a great deal of flexibility with the current setup. Based on my personal experience, doing panelized would have also resulted in greater cost in both wiring (because most electricians don't get it - even getting them to hide the switches in the closets was an effort) and the overall cost of the equipment. Also keep in mind that with a setup as I am describing you can "grow" your system and add C4 dimmers, switches, and keypads as you go at your own pace instead of having to go all-in at once expense-wise. Granted there are those here on the forum living in 20,000 sq/ft second vacation homes (invite me over please), but to a large subset of users, this can matter. Also, though I do no plan to ever sell the house, if I ever have to, the new owner could go back to "un-smart" lighting easily. Performance-wise I have had absolutely zero problems. I've literally never had to reset a lighting load or had any type of "Zigbee storm" as reported by others. We planned on doing it this way and it works to the way we designed it. Your mileage and experience may vary.
  3. Not just the difference in the case. The case is absolutely superior on the Luxe being aluminum. The other big difference is in the wall dock/connector itself. The Luxe is again machined aluminum and square and looks good when the iPad is not docked. The LaunchPort, while overall is still square-ish, has a round connector and is plastic. Also somewhat larger on the wall than the Luxe. If you are spending that much on a dock, go ahead and splurge for the Luxe.
  4. Is there a fix or update to stop the madness? I had not heard about it being related to time-change. Would think that in 2020 Control4 would have that worked out...just sayin'
  5. I believe they may. Is there any way in Composer HE to check out what is going on, or do I have to depend on a dealer to diagnose?
  6. Having this exact same issue. Have not updated anything. No new drivers or programming. No new equipment. No changes. EA5 in rack has needed to be rebooted now 3 times in one day. Remotes and all Navigators lose connectivity. System has previously been rock solid with no reboots needed at all. System has been in place for about 24 months OS 3.1.0.566785 Also Q: Any ill effects of rebooting the EA5 over and over again (just had to reboot again)? The EA5 is solid state (no moving hard drive) - correct? Help please.
  7. Any ideas on why for example the fans would have worked no issues whatsoever for over 1 yr and then suddenly started hating the WiFi network? During that time the firmware on the WAPs was unchanged. I blame a firmware update from Big Ass Fans that was specific to the WiFi module, however there is no way to go backwards with their firmware, and they are saying that they tested with Araknis 700 series WAPs at their lab and could not replicate any issues. Also does not explain the other issues we've ad on the network. Tekki70 - thanks for the idea on security/wpa
  8. Yes - I have full access to everything. Once upon a time I was a Cisco certified network engineer amongst other certifications, so I'm not flying totally blind. That said, it has been a while, so I am open to recommendations. We do have static IP addresses assigned to a number of devices including those times where SDDP was not working properly (imagine). I've not yet tried doing a static address for the fans, but that may be an idea. I did try creating a SSID on the WiFi network specifically for the fans, one for each floor (we have 7 fans). That also did not work. Networks suck when they don't work perfectly.
  9. Appreciate the feedback. We have tried also turning off band steering (SnapAV reported that this can interfere with IOT devices) and fast roaming (somewhat disappointing as this was a feature we purchased for when you are moving about with phones and tablets). Unfortunately, did not have an effect. Latest firmware has been loaded.
  10. Any updates or ideas on ever getting Ring video/audio integrated into Intercom Anywhere? I thought we had all discussed a while back that Control4 was attempting to integrate more readily with 3rd party doorbells and that Ring was moving in a similar direction...
  11. I've been living with Araknis 700 series WAPs (Dual Band - 2.4GHz and 5GHz) throughout my home. We have 2 units upstairs, 2 down stairs, one in the garage and one outdoors all spaced appropriately. Setups have been confirmed with SnapAV as correct. At first all was well. Then I started experiencing issues mostly with IOT devices. The fix has generally been to create a dedicated 2.4GHz network on the WAPs and assign the IOT devices that were randomly falling off the network to the 2.4GHz space since most of those devices do not natively support 5.0GHz. We continue to have some devices that we cannot get to stay on the network. Most infuriating are the Big Ass Fans Haiku fans and wall switches that will not stay on the network no matter what we do. We've created a dedicated SSID just for the fans, they stay on for a little while and then fall off. We've also had an issue with a WiFi gate controller (Nice brand) that is HomeKit compatible that either constantly says "Updating" or "No Response" in the Apple Home app. Occasionally, Mac laptops are randomly losing connectivity as well. I feel that the Araknis 700 WAPs are suspect in all of this. Any ideas or anyone who has experienced the same I'd love to hear it. Thanks in advance.
  12. I have these. Some notes: I have the controllers in the "wet" area of the shower / tub. We designed a recess for each to avoid as much spray as possible. Yes, they are "waterproof", and yes they also show water spots even with softened water (recommend a quick towel dry). The bracket/gasket is hardly an adequate long term seal to avoid moisture getting behind the wall. Make sure you use electric tape on the connection - that wire slips behind the wall, and goodbye forever. They are still a little bit unreliable with both Alexa and Siri (doesn't always work). Also with two controllers, Alexa and Siri get confused as to which "shower" you are talking to. Recommend creating Presets which then create corresponding scenes in Alexa and HomeKit. The native Moen App works every time. Moen App Timer function is *still* broken. Would definitely replace the outlet they are plugged into with a surge protect outlet. Make sure you have really good access to the valve system, a shutoff nearby, and access to the plug where they are plugged in - only way to do a hard reset. I also ran PVC conduit for the controller wire to location of controller just in case I ever switch systems and need a new/different control wire. Overall they are excellent and a huge wow factor to the bathroom. They now work with both Alexa and Apple HomeKit (Siri). While I have not attempted yet, there may be some Routines (Alexa) or Automations (Siri) that could work. I am aware that many "secure" devices such as door locks and garage doors do not allow automations for security reasons, same may be true with shower, but there are also workarounds. For example, I have an Automation to open a garage door when arriving home (geo fence). Won't do it by normal mechanism because of "security" - so... When I get Home > Turn on Night Light (1 min) ; When Night Light turns ON > Open Garage Door. Ta da. Haven't had reason or opportunity to see if that works with the Moen.
  13. Beware the new 2019/2020 versions of the Samsung Frame TV that require the absolutely stupid One Connect box. Yes, the One Connect box makes it such that there is only 1 tiny wire coming from the TV for power and AV connections, but then you have the ridiculously huge One Connect box to deal with and hide. SnapAV makes a good in-wall box that can accommodate the thing, but otherwise you are stuck putting it on the other side of the wall or in a cabinet below which defeats the whole purpose/look of the thing.
  14. Poor man's video distribution: TiVo. I love TiVo. There, I said it. Cannot play same source on all TVs at once, but works PERFECT when you watch something in one location and then want to pick up in the same spot in another location. TiVo Mini behind each TV ($150 each - beat that), and the TiVo Bolt+ or newer Edge in the rack. Works great. The interface, TV guide, season pass, and commercial skip, and fast playback mode (great for sports at 30% faster without chipmunk voices) are all miles ahead of anything else out there.
  15. Guys, give RyanE a break. He is a Control4 employee - what do you want him to do? Crap all over his company and products? His paycheck comes from Control4. We all purchased the stuff. He is just here helping. I'm very glad that he is around the forum to answer questions and bring feedback to Control4 / SnapAV. Let's not make him quit coming here, please. PS RyanE - I am still trying to understand and figure out if I can make a custom button as I asked above...
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