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anon2828 last won the day on September 8

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  1. Don't know why there are still battery issues on iOS - this isn't new: About iPad and iPhone Charge Management Feature: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT208710
  2. So if you have a EA5 and Triad AMS24 are you best setting both to Bypass if you are going to use the EQ function per room? Are there any release notes specific to this stuff or are we supposed to pick it all up by ourselves like figuring out a new version of iOS?
  3. Can anyone explain the steps for multiple video end points in a room - for example TV and Projector under 3.2.3?
  4. I am guessing that the Equalizer in Composer for the EA-X (EA-5 in my case) becomes the default if there is no setting in the EQ for each room in the Navigator, or something else? Or should the Equalizer in Composer for the EA-X be set to Bypass? I attempted to mess with the equalizer in Composer while playing music and also having the EQ in Navigator up - it seemed that any settings in Composer's EQ were ignored. Would imagine that the EQ settings are driving behavior of the EA-X controller - correct? Such that those with an audio matrix (Triad here) would continue to leave that in Bypass mode - right?
  5. I fixed it but don't know exactly what made it fixed. I had previously done these steps and Refreshed Navigators and that did not work... 1) In Composer at the Room level, check the box for "Show EQ in Navigator" - this choice is at the bottom. You would think that checking this box would implement the choice for the room you are in, but it didn't work that way for me. 2) Next to "Show EQ in Navigator" click Apply To - pick the rooms to apply to 3) Refresh Navigators 4) The EQ icon will show up to the right of the volume slider in each room it is enabled for.
  6. I'm on it! OK, so where is the Equalizer? I checked the box for "Show EQ in Navigator" in Composer HE and applied to the Room I am listening in. Where in the Navigator does the EQ actually show up? Can't find it anywhere...
  7. msgreenf - does this update allow you to have 2 video sources in the same room - thus eliminating the need for a separate "fake room" ??
  8. I have TechLighting fixtures on the outside of my home. It does appear that the Element / Entra lighting line from TechLighting is a separate product line, but that said, my experience with the brand has been pretty rotten. Of the outdoor fixtures from them that we have (6 in total) we have replaced 5, some of them twice under warranty. Burned out LED elements, finish issues, you name it. All of this stuff is ultimately coming from overseas, so quality I think is always an issue. The level of lighting you are looking at is true architectural lighting. I believe that the installation of that line of lights requires the housings to be taped and mudded into the drywall at the drywall finishing stage. Thus, your increase in cost is not just the fixture/housing, but also the additional drywall finishing for every fixture. Certainly it will look cool as hell and is very high end if money is no object. Personally, I'm not sure I am a fan of true recessed LED lighting where the light source is hidden up in the ceiling and just shining down through an open aperture. That said, it can look very high end and architectural if done right. You will also have far more options for beam spread, and angling the light as opposed to a traditional downlight. I am a huge fan of lighting and spent tons of time doing the lighting design in my home construction. Modern house and every single downlight is aligned with others in a row, lots of careful planning as to where each light was going to go, etc. And guess what? We used LED housings that were more traditional in nature that you can put your choice of any manufacturer's retrofit LED downlight into (from Home Depot to something more high end). In our case we used American Lighting's 3" housing, and we were going to pair with the American Lighting 3" LED (recessed smooth trim), but ended up liking way better the NICOR 3" LED (recessed baffle trim). The electricians were comfortable with the housings and putting the LED downlights in them without a bunch of extra expense or complaining. The integrated trim rings makes it such that mudding in the housing is not required (traditional rough cut around the housing aperture). The light source itself is great with good color accuracy, fantastic lumen output and great warranty. Couple years in and no failures yet (knock on wood because some of them are up 30 feet in the air). Can't focus the beam, or angle it, but we did use some other type of LED fixtures (2") where we needed wall washes. The 3" fixtures look great and modern versus a 4"-6" can light - I don't think anyone would say it looks cheap. All of this saved a ton of money versus going balls to the wall with an architectural line of lighting, makes eventual LED replacement easier, and in the end equation the lighting looks fantastic from inside and outside of the house. Rarely do you look up and focus on the actual light fixture and study it from below whether on or off. PS - I continue to recommend Philips Wiz for tape lights - simple, simple to install, everything you need included (no sourcing tape, driver, Zigbee module), available at Home Depot, comparable in quality to Philips Hue (see online comparisons), 1/2 price of Hue, and with the available driver great integration into Control4 (it does use WiFi as opposed to Zigbee for the record - I've had zero issues and have tons of it for architectural details and studied every available option including the surf from TechLighting, American Lighting).
  9. I don't want to start a flame war here, so here is the kindest way I can put this: Each of us (customer, dealer, 3rd party integration expert, customers who are dealers, etc.) each looks at this issue (and others on here) through our own lens. All of the opinions expressed here are valid and agreement as to one opinion should not be taken as an invalidation of the other opinions posted. Also, this is a forum - by definition a place to express opinions and share information and points of view - also very simple to just ignore a thread you don't like. Bottom line is that Control4 is a system to integrate home automations and disparate smart home devices and IoTs. The market leader in garage doors should be included in that mission. Should not matter who is at fault, it should be addressed and fixed by both companies. Any noise generated here, or Control4 employees reading the forums perhaps gets us closer to a driver based solution (which at least some of us prefer to a soldering solution). Imagine if all of a sudden you could no longer control Sony TVs (versus Samsung for example) unless Control4 paid for access (or whatever is really going on within the issue between Control4 and MyQ which really none of us know for certain) - it would be an issue...same as here.
  10. I just don't understand it. If they integrated with no one it would make more sense. But given the fact they do integrate with brands like Alarm.com and ClaireControls (rightly pointed out that is sold/owned by SnapOne/SnapAV), I just don't get the push back around Control4. Makes zero sense. If there is a fee, pass it on to the customer and see if we will pay it or not. But at least provide a choice. Any ClarieControls users out there that can comment on if they are paying extra for this integration? I'm sure after we hear that answer all of this will make even less sense.
  11. Nothing we don't already know, but here is the official position - pretty sad they cannot get it together with MyQ: Thank you for contacting Control4. Firstly, I apologize for the inconvenience on not being able to integrate with the MyQ system. We do not have any integration directly with MyQ API, and I cannot go into the reasons why. Our teams are aware of the request to have the MyQ API integration as a native option, unfortunately there are factors that are not allowing this at this time.We at Control4 strive to integrate with as many devices and brands as possible. There are multiple factors that do play into that, and not all of them are within our control.Regarding garage doors, we do integrate with garage motors that have the standard contact/relay triggers for local communication. This does not rely on cloud communications, instead uses local contacts for the state, and relays to trigger the motor. We also integrate with Genie/Aladdin door openers using their API on the cloud systems.Please let me know if you have any additional questions or concerns.Thanks,Derrick CainSr. Manager of Customer Advocacy
  12. Thanks chopedogg88 I am betting when projector was added to the room that maybe something got messed up. This is when it is frustrating to someone like me to have to rely on a dealer to fix things in Composer that I could fix that they screwed up in the first place. I just had to correct their faulty programming for putting the screen down when projector goes on that they failed to get right...
  13. RED C4 Button on SR260 Remote Not Launching On-Screen Navigator What do I need to check? Already have done a reboot of the C4 Controller in question.
  14. I went through this decision as well and ended up using an iPad min with the iPort LuxePort mount. It looks fantastic on the wall, can be pulled off to use handheld, and the mount on the wall when the tablet is removed looks good as well. Agree that instant on to the C4 Navigator, Intercom Anywhere, and the idea of a dedicated control isn't there with an iPad... HOWEVER: If you have any other smart home apps that you need to get to that are not 100% integrated into C4, you can access all of them. Good example of above is the cluster F with MyQ garage doors - I can just go over to that app and control them. Hey Siri is nice to have if you have any Apple HomeKit automations. Can also access Alexa app which is nice as well.
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