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About anon2828

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    Control4 End User

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  1. Experience and Integrations with Ring Video Doorbell: What works, what doesn't? How is video quality? What are some of the best integrations / tricks you guys have come up with? Good alternative to DS2? Looking at the Ring Pro or Ring Elite...
  2. Any ideas, thoughts, etc. on how the August View Doorbell Cam will or will not be able to integrate with a Control4 system? https://august.com/products/august-view-doorbell-camera I know that current consensus is to stick with the Control4 DS2 (Door Station 2), but $1000.00 for a doorbell camera (plus integration & programming) is a bit much to stomach...If Control4 sold these things for closer to $499-$599 I think it would hit the sweet spot just a bit more that consumer grade do--it-yourself doorbell cameras, but alas, here we are... If not August or a DS2, what is the next best option? I have other cameras pointed at the entry, I just want to be able to answer the door. My front door is unfortunately incompatible with a smart lock (commercial style mortise lock from Regent - the lock takes a full twist to engage, and also throws a pin top and bottom for security - if anyone knows ANY smart lock that would integrate, let me know...)
  3. Also, customers using Composer HE, or honestly in 2019, just using the App *should* be able to reorder rooms, and also rename certain items. I'm not arguing dealer model here, just simple ability to do simple things that every other app can do without issue...crazy that you cannot do this in 2019 with what amounts to at minimum a several thousand dollar (or much, much more) system...
  4. Above is correct. I have the Trane XL20i (2 units). The Trane thermostats are the only ones that will work with the system. First, it is in fact a serial connection. Second, they are communicating. Third, the Trane XL20i specifically is not a “stage” type heat pump (in other words it isn’t 2 or 3 or 4 stages), rather it is truly an infinitly variable speed device. I thought as well that I would eventually use the Houselogix driver, alas. Would be very appreciative to get in on the test Bnet.
  5. Samsung UBD-M9700 4K UHD Blu-ray Player I have it and it works via IP great. Although not specifically in Samsung’s literature it is SDDP compatible. I watched the install and it recognized without issue. I like the interface because if you have Samsung TVs it is the same. https://hdguru.com/samsung-adds-control4-sddp-to-2017-4k-uhdtvs-uhd-blu-ray-player/
  6. I like the Episode in wall subs (dual 8”) with the matching episode amp. One amp can drive two of the wall sub units. They sound good and pricing is reasonable compared to Sonnance, etc. I think most would be hard pressed to tell the difference between Episode and something costing 2-3x more.
  7. My understanding is that the Visualint units have "intelligence" built into the camera itself, thus allowing setting zones, do not cross lines, etc. that can then have associated triggers. Just don't know if you can do the same with the Luma cameras (which don't have intelligence on the camera side) and then do your zones, do not cross lines, etc. on the Luma NVR. I'm not understanding the benefits of analytics on the camera vs NVR. Another Q: What MP works best? 2MP I believe displays full 1080p while a 4MP would be closer to 4k resolution. Do people using in the real world feel that 4k delivers a huge benefit?
  8. About to add security cameras to our Control4 system. Want to stay within the SnapAV family, so: Q: Luma or Visualint (or a little of each)? Residential application. Trying to capture the following: 1) Front door (guests and package deliveries), 2) Driveway (cars), 3) side yards, 4) Back yard / pool, 5) Dock / Boat Q2: Which NVR for this type of application (again, trying to stay within the SnapAV family)? Thinking the Luma 510 series. Seems that you can mix and match Luma and Visualint cameras together and works with the Luma 510 NVR - (from SnapAV: "Cross-Compatibility with Visualint - Mix and match Luma’s easy-to-use interface and user-friendly mobile app with Visualint’s intelligent video cameras to create the custom install you want. Both Luma and Visualint cameras work with any Luma recorder you choose, so you can optimize systems for both price and performance.") Feedback, ideas, recommendations please. Thanks!!
  9. Yes. I’ve done it. Be careful. Easy to break.
  10. Try force touching when the screen is displayed that just says "Media" - it will give you an option to Reload. It will sometimes ask that you have your C4 app open on the iPhone to sync and then you are off to the races...
  11. Holy undocumented features. Not sure if anyone caught this, but if you force touch the watch screen when the volume control is up you get options for: Room Off - (actually works) Mute - (works) Rooms - (takes you to a screen with all of your rooms where you can toggle them on and off. Adding rooms to currently playing only works with stereo PCM sources - ex. I was using 5.1 TV source and to send that audio to rooms I’d have to set the TV audio source to PCM output - it worked great when just playing a normal audio source. I also found that depending on the source you do get controls for the media playing (pause, ff, rew) - very dependent on the media playing - for example I only had volume control for my TiVo and when playing a “Station” from the Control4 native Amazon Music source, while streaming an audio source from my phone to Control4 showed the full set of pause,ff, rew and volume on the watch. Also for audio sources the watch shows the cover art and text for the currently playing song. Maybe not as useless as I (we) thought?? (or did everyone already know how this worked ?? I figured it out by mistake)...
  12. I just got it to work for the first time (had to force quit the Watch app and then it asked me to open the iPhone app to sync). Though I don’t know what I am supposed to see in terms of functionality. When watching a source on TV, I see a button that says “Media” with a house icon. Clicking that takes me to a screen that says “Now Playing” at the top and there is a volume control on the screen. It does in fact control the volume of the currently playing TV source. Unfortunately the smart crown has no effect on the volume, you actually have to tap the + or - on the screen. There is no other functionality I can see. Would be nice to be able to start a source in a room or mute, or play / pause / rew / ff a source. Also lighting / shading control would be nice. Like a mini me version of the C4 app. Don’t know why they’d think this suffices as is unless I am missing something. Anyone know of any other functionality?
  13. Question for zaphod re: Dresden Elektronik setup : What is the state of the LED strip after a power loss? Does it go back to last state or something else? I know that Philips Hue was coming out with a new feature this month that addresses that issue, but not sure how that works within Control4. Specifically, I have a couple of areas that I am just doing under cabinet lighting in bathrooms as a night light where I want the switch (not a Control4 switch, just a plain old dumb switch) to control the load (the LED tape). If that is turned off, then back on, will the LED Tape come back to its last state, and how long is the delay if any? Any suggestions on a good AC/DC adaptor for the Dresden Elektronik setup where I am doing a smaller run (I know you suggested something more robust for those longer runs) - do you have any idea/documentation as to length of run vs. what type of power supply required?
  14. Right - so basically all I am attempting to do is to extend the distance between the Hue driver/controller and the light strip itself using LV 18 gauge wire - is that possible? I'd have the DC power supply and driver/controller in one location, then from the driver/controller have a run of LV wire and then splice that onto the LED tape - that should work (so long as my extension run isn't too long) - correct? Also good for a read on options on this subject: https://char.gd/blog/2018/building-better-cheaper-philips-hue-led-strips
  15. I have a Samsung Q8. I also thought that the IP driver would work and wanted to use it. My dealer struggled to get it to work properly and ended up using an IR blaster. I'm a bit disappointed to have to use an IR blaster given the otherwise clean look of the bezel of the TV. Perhaps Samsung will do some updates to allow it to work properly. Seems stupid that Samsung hasn't addressed this since they specifically created the Q8 to address customer and custom installers that wanted rear of TV direct connections (as opposed to their One Connect box found on the Q9 and Q7) for environments like Control4 where TVs would likely be hung on the wall and integrated into a system. If anyone has it, or gets it working properly, please update us.
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