Switches vs. Dimmers

[jasonh]

I'm new to Control4 products so if this answer is obvious, I apologize. My installer is recommending that I use dimmers in all of the light locations, whether I want to actually use the dimming functionality or not. He said he would just make the dimmer act as a switch when programming the environment. I was on-board with this until I was looking at the iPhone/ iPad app and noticed how the switches were easier to turn on/ off, and the dimmers were more of a sliding interaction. The installer informed me that I would not really be using the iPhone app as much and should think of it completely different then when I was playing the mControl.

2 Questions:

1. Would you recommend dimmers in all locations, or just where dimming needs to take place?

2. Can you make the dimmers appears as switches on the iPhone with some background programming on the Control4?

Thanks in advance!

[Neter66]

2 Questions:

1. Would you recommend dimmers in all locations, or just where dimming needs to take place?

2. Can you make the dimmers appears as switches on the iPhone with some background programming on the Control4?

1: In my opinion, yes. I have several switches instead of dimmers, and wish I had done all dimmers.

2: Unknown if you can make them appear as switches, but you don't need to slide the lights on the app. You can just tap it, and it will turn on/off as necessary. sliding is only if you want to dim.

Thanks

D.

[jasonh]

Awesome! That's good to know about the tapping functionality for the dimmers.

Thanks for the quick response!

[ILoveC4]

While I agree that in general dimmers are better, there are some situations where you will need a switch (where it is recommended I should say) based on the lighting load.

[TexasBill]

I disagree - there are many places where a switch works better -

1. I have gas lamps - they have an auto-igniter on them - a dimmer would not be good if someone accidentally held the up or down button or on the iphone

2. LEDs are particularly not happy with dimmers at times - I have LEDs for floor lighting in my media room and they need switches

3. all my fans are on switches - dimmers tend to make the fans hum more I control the speed and direction on the fan and simply turn it on or off with the switch.

4. pond pump - this need a switch - variable power to this is not good.

5. LED wall washers - this needs to be a switch - they need constant and full power only - yes a dimmer would work as a switch - but again - if you don't ALWAYS do it right then there could be problems

There are others places in my house where I needed switches - I would agree that generally a dimmer will work as a switch and I MOSTLY have dimmers - but there are cases where switches are better. YMMV

Bill

[nawty]

I disagree - there are many places where a switch works better -

1. I have gas lamps - they have an auto-igniter on them - a dimmer would not be good if someone accidentally held the up or down button or on the iphone

2. LEDs are particularly not happy with dimmers at times - I have LEDs for floor lighting in my media room and they need switches

3. all my fans are on switches - dimmers tend to make the fans hum more I control the speed and direction on the fan and simply turn it on or off with the switch.

4. pond pump - this need a switch - variable power to this is not good.

5. LED wall washers - this needs to be a switch - they need constant and full power only - yes a dimmer would work as a switch - but again - if you don't ALWAYS do it right then there could be problems

There are others places in my house where I needed switches - I would agree that generally a dimmer will work as a switch and I MOSTLY have dimmers - but there are cases where switches are better. YMMV

Bill

Giving variable power to a motor = burnt out motor (think brown out)

Your statements from above may mislead that you can run a dimmer in the place of a switch. You can but will end up with broken lighting, fans and motors.

Your last statement "but again - if you don't ALWAYS do it right then there could be problems" should be your ONLY statement. Or that a switch IS NECESSARY, not better.

I don't want anybody to get the impression that a dimmer will work in the place where its not supposed to go.... PERIOD.... it may for a short time, but sooner than later you will have failure.

And yes I know you can set a dimmer to run 0 or 100% like a switch. (But is that the correct way to design the system in the first place "

I have done this in my own home because I didnt have time to rewire the fan and never used the fan in winter... well since it was hot out the other day, my wife used the fan and the dimmer was at 85% default..... The fan remote unit melted in the casing and filled my 2 story addition with a nasty burnt electronic smell.. Total cost $40 for a new remote module for the fan...Plus labor and bringing the ladder in to get to the vaulted ceiling... what a pain.

My point is that switches aren't just better, they are the only choice on specific loads and electrical appliances. (fans, motors, certain LED's etc.) Do it right the first time.

[JP Rizal]

^ yep important to know. Exhaust and other motors needs a switch. NOT AN OPTION. Non-Dimming Flourescent ballasts should use a switch too.

You might also notice a flicker using non-dimming CFLS on dimmers. If u do this make sure your ramp is 0 sec to 100 level

[dannyboy]

I've had problems with dimmer with high load halogen, but within spec, two have humming noise on standard load, with compact fluros and I plan on using LEDs more, thus I'm planning on 30 more switches and only 2 more dimmers. My dimmers where the earliest ones, but ive lost interest in playing with sliders for 80% of my loads.

We do have enough switches however we can reduce lights in main formal and living rooms without dimming.

I will continue to use dimmers in bedrooms and kids passage/hall way where at night the dimmer is programmed to come on at 20%(double tap for full strength). The only time we use the slider is to show off to friends.

[dmassart]

Some of my dimmers blink. Very annoying! I have been moving them over to switches.

[AK1]

Disagree. I love dimmers in the right rooms where controlling light level makes sense e.g. living, kitchen, hallways... There are some rooms where I just want "instant on/off" e.g. laundry, washroom, garage. For these rooms, I don't want to inadvertently hold the dimmer for a second or so and have it dim. Just instant on/off...

I'm new to Control4 products so if this answer is obvious, I apologize. My installer is recommending that I use dimmers in all of the light locations, whether I want to actually use the dimming functionality or not. He said he would just make the dimmer act as a switch when programming the environment. I was on-board with this until I was looking at the iPhone/ iPad app and noticed how the switches were easier to turn on/ off, and the dimmers were more of a sliding interaction. The installer informed me that I would not really be using the iPhone app as much and should think of it completely different then when I was playing the mControl.

2 Questions:

1. Would you recommend dimmers in all locations, or just where dimming needs to take place?

2. Can you make the dimmers appears as switches on the iPhone with some background programming on the Control4?

Thanks in advance!

[nascent]

Dimmers are great for energy savings and bulb life when you program "on" to be 80% or 90%. I remember reading that at 80% you quadruple the life of the bulb. Plus 20% energy savings!

I think that ramping on and off is better for bulb life too, but haven't really researched that.

[JP Rizal]

Some of my dimmers blink. Very annoying! I have been moving them over to switches.

Check the bulbs that you are using with those dimmers. CFLs will flicker. If you change the bulbs instead to incandescent or dimmable CFLs or (LED bulbs though I havent tried) the flicker should stop.