SY3
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Posts posted by SY3
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Never heard that before unless something has changed on Control4's side. I've swapped out equipment many times and re-sold it here and on other sites.
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You can sell whatever you want. Post it here with a pic and price it accordingly.
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Having a similar issue with 1 of my WB-700 units. Just started last night where all the outlets turn off in order and then turn back on. Happening every 20 mins. Firmware up to date. Re-applied firmware with the same results. Removed from rack and still happening with nothing plugged in.
Already contacted my dealer but I didn't purchase it from them. How is the RMA process if you don't have proof of purchase?
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PM sent.
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What version are you currently on? It all depends on what you want to get out of your system. Upgrading the system will give you the most current functionality and warranty on the hardware.
If budget is a concern, you could upgrade the HC300 to HC250 units and keep with the current system and setup you have. Now the HC250 are not current anymore either and would have to be sourced second hand / without warranty. If you're happy with the remotes, you don't need to upgrade those either. I'm not a dealer but I'm sure they don't want to support older systems and upgrading customers is sometimes the best option.
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3 hours ago, ILoveC4 said:
The shades I ordered are from Graber.
I saw Graber at Costco recently and didn't know if they integrated with Control4. Good to know that they do. Just stating my window treatment automation search and gathering intel. Look forward to your updates.
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20 hours ago, lippavisual said:
I saw that Doorbird is coming out with a new D101. Looks really slick and will work as you'd like.
I don't think the newer version ships until January though.
Can you provide some details or links?
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What version of Control4 does the driver work with? Didn't see that in the documentation.
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What settings are you using to add it? ONVIF? Make sure the Amcrest camera is ONVIF 2.4+ compatible.
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Just checked my 3 Wattbox settings in my project and I'm using Port 80.
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2 hours ago, tekki70 said:
300 is rock solid and what I have used for sites and my own home for years, really my goto router but discontinued now
I would not recommend the 110 as the 110 series is really made for people with minimal devices on their network and not for home automation setups
the 310 series I have at home, while I am a big fan of araknis, I wont sell the 310 until all their bugs are worked out, currently I have one at home and been running it since its release but I have had several issues. I normally set my routers to reboot every sunday at 2 am, but this one I have to set to reboot every 3 days otherwise it locks up on me. internet just cuts out. I have been on with support several times, they have tried several different settings, but still it would lock up like clockwork every 2 to 3 days. I have 2 internet services, I have fios and I have optonline, didn't matter which service, what settings, etc.
Thank you for this. I decided to go with the Araknis 300 for now. I have several other SnapAV products and with OvrC, made sense.
It will be interesting to see which router line stays after the merger. I feel comfortable with the Araknis since its already part of the SnapAV family but we'll see.
Thank you again for your suggestions. Appreciate it.
- Gary Leeds UK and rea
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Thanks for all the recommendations.
Any comments on the Araknis routers? 300, 310, or 110?
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21 minutes ago, mallom said:
We only use Ubiquiti with great success.
Good: ERLite 3 or USG
Better: ER4 or USG Pro 4Thanks. Thought Ubiquiti was on the "not recommended" list. My dealer has a used RK-1 that he's giving me a good deal on. Just wondering if I should take him up on it.
Current router locks up about once a week but always when I'm not home. It's on a Wattbox so I could program it in a way to reboot the router but that's not a solution.
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My current router (Netgear R7000) has been acting up lately. It will randomly lock up needing a power cycle. I can ping it but not get to it from a browser. Factory resets and latest firmware have not helped.
Looking for recommendations on a new router. Looked at the Pakedge RK-1 but wanted to get some input from the experts here first.
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1 hour ago, Unsocialtoaster said:
Check under the Navigator tab for the room in System Design (where you set the Watch and Listen lists). There is a section for security where the new drivers may be hidden.
That’s exactly where I’m looking and don’t see it. On the driver itself, I don’t see rooms to select which rooms I want to see it under at all. I’ve refreshed navigators and rebooted director.
I’ve reverted back to the previous driver for the time being. I’m also running 2.10.6 on a HC800
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I tried to update to the new driver and can no longer see the home alarm system under the Security menu. I can't even select which rooms I want it to show up in. It is communicating with my alarm system but I can't see it on any of the screens. What am I doing wrong?
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6 hours ago, Gary Leeds UK said:
We have a LG tv and the C4 driver is no longer working after a recent update
waiting for dealer to sort
we have used Wemo plug to get round the issue at the moment
Which model are you having an issue with and what's the issue? I have the UK6570AUB and no issues with the C4 driver.
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Just as an update - I was able to get my Yale YRD226 lock working. It was my Zigbee mesh that was having an issue. They did send me the right card. I just can't add users from any UI since I don't see the "+" sign at all. I guess I'll have to add users from the lock which is not what I'm used to doing.
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52 minutes ago, dcovach said:
I could be wrong but I highly doubt Yale sent you the actual C4 version of the zigbee module. They have a zigbee module, but I'm not positive they're able to include the C4 version with any locks they send out. OR, they mixed it up. You're not the first to struggle with the newer Yale locks. The issue some dealers are having with these locks is either the module is no good or it's the wrong one.
The support person I talked to knew the difference between the zigbee modules. The zigbee module has a part # of AYR202-ZB-C4 instead of ZB-HA so I thought I got the C4 version. But it’s not fully working.
I’ll call them tomorrow and see if they can swap out just the module.
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On 11/30/2018 at 5:27 PM, dcovach said:
The older module you have will physically fit in the newer locks but it doesn't work with it. You won't be able to get it to id into your project. The good news is that the newer module is much cheaper than the older one
Hey Dan,
So I had the Yale YRD220 that stopped working. I contacted Yale and they sent me a new YRD226 since they don't make the YRD220 anymore. I told them that I had C4 so they sent me the module as well. It's solid red - AY202-ZB-C4 V5 as opposed to the transparent pink one I had - ZB3.3 CP 2-5-3. I can ID it in my project but I can't control the lock at all. Removed and re-added to the project several times. Running 2.10.6 Using the Yale V3 driver. In Composer, the lock model says default which makes me think something is not working properly. When I manually lock it, the status changes. I can't add users through the UI since I don't see that option. Brand new batteries are installed.
Do you know if I have the right module for this lock?
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Sounds like Ikea is getting into the game with their own automated shades. Coming in April. Be interested to see the price point and if/how to integrate into C4.
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Yep - the driver works great and I was also surprised to find out about it the way I did. But glad its out and working.
Another note - its not that easy to enable IP control on the X1 box. Takes a few tries. I can't see a typical home owner doing it themselves so if they already have IR control, they may not care to upgrade to IP.
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19 hours ago, knowitall said:
Do you have your own modem or their gateway? I couldn’t get my box to get an IP. gonna exchange tomorrow for a new one
i have a surfboard and Araknis router
I have my own modem - ARRIS SURFboard SB6190 and using the Asus AC1900 router.
Comcast/Xfinity IP control
in General Control4 Discussion
Posted
These are the instructions I received from someone when I was enabling my box. Make sure you have the right firmware and set a static IP address or do a DHCP reservation.
VERIFY FIRMWARE VERSION:
1) To find the Firmware version of your supported STB, use the About page:
* Go to Settings and scroll down to the About page.
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* Using Xfinity Voice control, say "About" into the voice remote.
2) Look for firmware with 3.2p1 in the tag line.
* Example – for an Arris Xg1v4, you should see this: AX014AN_3.2p1 . . . There will be additional letters/number in the build line, but as long as you see 3.2p1, the STB is ready for IP. As Firmware continues to upgrade, all builds after 3.2p1 will be ready for IP Control. Example - if you see 3.2p3 or 3.3, etc., the STB is ready for IP Control.
SETUP STEPS:
1) Activate IP Control on your STB (this requires the Xfinity Remote and an Ethernet connection to the SB):
* Press and Hold the Xfinity button for 3 seconds.
* Press the "DOWN", "DOWN", "3" buttons.
* This will open the STB Diagnostics Menu (there will be several seconds of lag while it loads).
* Scroll down to 'Remote Controls' and select.
* Scroll to IP Control and select.
* With the Diagnostics IP Control page open:
- Press and Hold "A" for 5 seconds.
- Press "4", "7", "7" buttons ("I","P","R").
- Press and Hold "A" for 5 seconds.
* A message will tell you that you are activating IP Control and your STB will reboot.
2) After STB reboot, return to the Diagnostics Menu and return to the IP Remote section. Verify that IP is enabled, and note the IP Remote LAN Address.
3) Setup a static IP Address registration in your router's DHCP menu (beyond the scope of this document).
4) Reboot the STB if necessary to obtain the new IP Address.
5) In ComposerPro's Connections -> Network Tab -> IP Network section, find the Xfinity X1 driver, and enter it's IP Address in the Identify Window.
6) In the Xfinity driver's Actions Tab, press the 'Pair to Xfinity X1' button. This will pair Control4 with the STB.
7) In ComposerPro's Connections -> Control/AV tab, make appropriate A/V connections from the Xfinity X1 driver to appropriate endpoints.
The Xfinity X1 STB should be controllable through Control4.