pinkoos

It is but reading online many people report issues getting WPA2 to work

Yeah I figured, like I said not ideal

Buying a different printer is not an option, so do you have a suggestion of what security method of those I listed above to try next?

Thank you

Finally got the HP printer on the network via wifi, but with some caveats

I created a secondary SSID and first tried WPA2-PSK security - no dice

So then I changed the security to ‘open’ (ie, no security, no password) and it worked

Devices on my primary SSID are able to see and print to the printer without a problem

Of course having the printer on an open network is not ideal, but I’m not broadcasting the SSID so I’m guessing that some hacker can’t *easily* backdoor into my network, right? Isn’t this analogous to just having an open ‘guest’ network with no password required?

The other options for security mode include:

WPA-PSK mixed

WPA2

WPA mixed

I may try one of these but wanted to first see if anybody knew which one of these would be most likely to work - maybe I could try that one first

Thanks

I'm currently logging into each of the 4 WAPs to see which one is the one closest to the printer and will figure out how to create that second 2.4GHz only network and give it a shot

Thanks to all for the help and suggestions

1 minute ago, Dunamivora said:

This is where taking a networking basics course is helpful.

Splitting the 2.4ghz and 5ghz is done in the ssid config.

My suggestion is get a better printer because most are cheap crap.

LOL, ain't that the truth!

Just now, RAV said:

Back to your problem....

Create a 2.4 only WiFi SSID on your AP closest to the printer.

How do I do that? I have all Araknis hardware (router, switch, POE and WAPs)

 And would that negatively impact all the other devices that access that closet WAP? Would I need to reconfigure those devices to be able to connect?

Fixed it - had to spoof my Mac's MAC address to the HP printer's one that I had entered in the MAC address filtering section of router's web page

Once I did that, I was able to easily log into the router using 192.168.1.1, delete the HP printer's MAC address and turn off MAC address filtering

Restored my Mac's MAC address to the original and all is good now, whew!

Though I could have spoofed the MAC address manually, I just downloaded  https://apps.apple.com/us/app/wifispoof/id1192126677?mt=12 and used that

Thanks for the reply, but as I noted, I did check what the router/gateway's IP address is in both Terminal and Network Preferences and confirmed that it's still 192.168.1.1

I also tried connecting a laptop directly to the router's LAN port and rebooting the router after making that connection, but was still not able to load the router's web page

But, I was able to load any other web page, confirming the connection out to the internet is still working

I'm not sure how entering the HP printer's MAC address and 'turning on' MAC filtering could have caused all this

And, if turning on MAC filtering but only inputting the printer's MAC address, wouldn't that cause everything else to not be able to connect to the internet?

Again, everything seems to be working fine in terms of connection to the outside world, it's just that I can't get into the router to remove the HP printer from the MAC filtering and to turn off MAC filtering

My router's IP address is 192.168.1.1

I was trying to get a new HP printer on our wireless network and couldn't get it working (tried for over 2 hours)

One trouble shooting step was to add the printer's MAC address to the router, so I logged into the router using 192.168.1.1, found the place where I think MAC addresses are entered and entered the printer's MAC address

I applied the change and there was like a 20 second countdown - I'm not sure if the router reboot too or not

Regardless, that didn't work in terms of getting the printer on the network wirelessly, so I was going to log back into the router and just take that MAC address out, but now the router's web page won't load with the 192.168.1.1 address

I'm on a Mac, so I went into both Terminal and network preferences and confirmed that that is still the router's IP address

I reboot the router and the cable modem

But, the page won't load - it just hangs. It doesn't present the password interface or anything else, it just won't load the page at all

I've tried different browsers and different computers and mobile devices, but no luck

The internet seems to still work fine with no connectivity issues, but I just don't know why I can't access the router's page any longer

Any thoughts?

Thanks

Yeah, I did that - basically the Connect was unplugged from power throughout the whole process until I got S2 up and running

So I went ahead and did this last night

I'll spare everyone the details but it was not a smooth process, but I finally got it done

I have an S1 system that just has my old Connect 1st generation

and

An S2 system that has my 2 Beams, 3 One SLs and hopefully a Roam soon enough

Problem: the S1 system shows all the S2 speakers under the Rooms tab (and they are listed as incompatible) and, conversely, the S2 system shows the Connect in the Rooms tab (again listed as incompatible)

Aside from the cluttered nature of the interface showing all these incompatible speakers for each system, it seems I can't run system updates for either system b/c of the presence of these incompatible speakers - there's a message that I need to remove the incompatible speakers from each system to be able to update

However, 'removing' them means factory resetting them which, of course, I'm trying to avoid and was the whole point of this thread - ie, not having to factory reset them

Has anybody run into this same issue and, if so, did you find any resolution?

Thanks!

Thanks, not only do I not want the C4 integration with my Connect to get messed up, I also don't want the integration of the S2 speakers to get messed up (mainly the two Beams connected to TVs)

Thanks, I'll keep my fingers crossed!

Thanks for the reply, I may bite the bullet and try this weekend

From reading online, it sounds like I should unplug my Connect prior to converting the other speakers to S2 so that everything already set up for the Connect won't disappear

I have two Beams, 3 One SLs and the original old Connect

I've hesitated converting/upgrading my system to Sonos' latest operating system (called S2...the old one is called S1) b/c I've read tons and tons of bad reviews about it and people's speakers, systems going wonky after upgrading

So far, my whole system works fine on S1

However, I'd like to get the upcoming Sonos Roam (portable bluetooth/AirPlay 2) speaker, but that is only compatible with S2

If I try and add the Roam to my system, Sonos will give me two options:

1. Create a new S2 system

2. That's it actually

So, I can keep my current speakers on S1 and have a Roam as the only speaker on S2 or I can convert all my current speakers to S2 and add the Roam to S2 once I get it (my Connect will have to stay on S1 - it's not compatible with S2)

The problem is that S1 and S2 don't talk to each other. So, if I have some speakers on S1 and others on S2, they can't be grouped (at least not through Sonos...I can still group them via AirPlay 2, but then that kinda defeats the purpose of having Sonos)

So, what I"m really asking is that if I convert all my current speakers to S2, will that affect any bindings, etc. with Control4 that have already been set up?

Anything else I need to consider?

Thanks

Weirdest thing happened a few days ago - 

We were having internet connectivity issues so I reboot all networking hardware in the rack, something I've done multiples of multiples times over the past year or two

That reboot fixed our connectivity issues but it also brought this particular camera back to life

I was getting the camera feed again via Control4 as well as directly through the camera's IP address

But, my excitement was short-lived as by the morning time, that camera (or more likely the connection) had gone dead again

Anyway, I thought I'd resurrect this thread just like how my camera was resurrected (at least for a short time!)

Of my 250 remotes has lost functionality of the directional keypad buttons, though the center 'select' button still works as do the others (I didn't individually test them all, but it seems the main ones are working at least)

Is this common to have only a few buttons like this break?

I have two other 250's and one 260

Thanks

I'm in Houston and so our power/Comcast was out for a couple of days due to the winter storm

Power was restored and it took a little longer for Comcast to come back online; once it did, it seemed to be working fine

However, the 'internet' LED on the wattbox is a solid red rather than solid green

Again, internet seems to be working okay though

And, my OvrC app shows everything as connected and online

According to the manual, a solid red internet LED means none of the Sites/IP Addresses are communicating with the WattBox

Any ideas on what's causing this and how to correct it?

I'm wary of unplugging the Wattbox or turning it off and then on with the power button because if, for some reason, that messes something up, it will be difficult to get my dealer to do anything considering the pandemic and, now, the weather situation

Thanks

Comcast tech came out today

I'll preface this by saying that I guess I had different expectations on what he would do - I thought he would connect some kind of doohickey to my coaxials both outside and inside the house to test signal, connection, speed, etc.

But, I guess everything is just app based these days as he didn't do any of that

When he first came I explained everything to him and he started looking at his phone and told me that something was failing and that he needed to come inside and check the modem out

So he checked the modem (by checked I mean he just looked at it), checked how tight the connection was, checked where the coaxial from the modem was running and noticed a splitter and then checked those connections for tightness

Said he needed to get something out of his truck and then came back in and attached something to one of the coaxials (not where it comes into the modem but somewhere else behind the equipment rack)

Then wanted to look at the outside lines, so I showed him where the coaxial comes into the house and showed him where the coaxial comes off the pole

Anyway, he checked his phone/app again to see if there were any issues in the neighborhood and then told me that what was failing when he first showed up is now passing

I asked him what all that meant and he said that when he first came, the 'fm pole test' (or something like that) was failing but after he put a 'toner' on the coaxial behind the rack, it passed

So, he said that everything now looks good from Comcast's end and if the issue continues I need to check my network hardware next

Will continue to monitor - I'm really hoping that whatever he said and did was correct and that this will take care of the issue but don't have high expectations at this point, but I could be wrong....

Thank you for the additional thought - I'll have to check when I'm back home this evening

Also, I was able to make a Comcast appointment for tomorrow (Saturday) so I'll see what the tech says at that time

Thanks again

Thanks for the additional info

I will be calling Comcast to try and get them out for a service call and go from there

7 minutes ago, Cyknight said:

2 will do, not all routers (in fact most consumer grades and many business models don't) support 3 or more. any combination of 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4 (both google) and/or 1.1.1.1 (Cloudflare Public DNS) or 208.67.220.220 and 208.67.222.222 (Cisco OpenDNS) will do.

 

While this is something of an Araknis glitch, it is generally a good idea to use the static options over your ISP provided ones, as they are simply faster in resolving than (most) ISP DNS servers.

 

 

Ok thank you for that clarification 

9 hours ago, lippavisual said:

Tell him to statically assign DNS on the WAN port.

I only see the option to change DNS servers 1 and 2

Where would I enter the 3rd entry?

2 minutes ago, Topspin14m said:

Is this the same issue you had two years ago?  I see folks recommended the DNS server change then.  Did you try that (maybe it's already been done and thus some other issue)?

 

I couldn't remember but went through that thread and it looks like they replaced the router from a 300 to a 310 at that time

Not sure if they changed the DNS after that or not

I'm guessing this is the tech note to which you're referring:

https://www.staub.ca/pdf/sku/Araknis310DNSResolution.pdf