pinkoos

I believe I'm on OS 2.9

Hi

I'm considering replacing a couple of my aging wall-mounted touchscreens with iPad minis

I will occasionally run the iOS Control4 app, but my main use case will be to run my SecuritySpy NVR app on the iPad for live camera feeds (several of which are not tied into Control4)

So, I definitely don't need to spend the money on the latest and greatest iPad mini 6 for these uses, but was wondering what's the bare minimum model I should be looking at for a nice, smooth experience (obviously a 1st generation may run these apps, but it would be painfully slow and just not a good user experience)

Thanks

Your recommended setup is what I came across multiple times online when reading up on this, but my dealer told me this morning that it's no longer the case to have one wired and that everything on wifi should be fine

BTW, I have Araknis routers and switches, so I believe they have STP built in and, most likely enabled, though I haven't verified...not sure if that makes a difference

Hi my understanding that, Control4 aside, Sonos speakers can wreak havoc on networks if not setup correctly (ie, broadcast storm)

Anyway, my S2 system somehow fell off the grid and I'm going to have to add it back from scratch, I believe

It consists of 2 Beams and 3 One SL (or whatever they're called)

So I thought I'd take advantage of it disappearing by doing it the preferred way from the get go

So, should I hardwire one of them (most likely one of the Beams) in order to create a SonosNet and connect the rest via wifi,

OR

have them all on wifi which, if I understand correctly, doesn't create a separate SonosNet

Thanks in advance

31 minutes ago, tmj4 said:

This is entirely used for load-balancing of failover. For most, even the technically savvy and informed on this forum, it will not be used. Few prosumer devices even get this correct and usually more headaches (translation: service calls for dealers of Araknis) can transpire given the odd nature of consumer internet access with dynamic IPs, low SLAs, and now the ever-so-fun CGNAT that is popping up with IPv4 exhaustion and providers who don't want to or can't fully upgrade to IPv6. 

So WAN2 should generally not be used in lieu of WAN1?

4 hours ago, pinkoos said:

Anybody else have a sticker blocking the WAN2 port on an Araknis AN-310-RT-4L2W - 'Warning for future use only'?

If so, does that mean WAN2 is not active? Or does removing the sticker void the warranty? Or something else?

Thanks

Never mind, turns out WAN2 active and working fine, not sure why that sticker was there

Anybody else have a sticker blocking the WAN2 port on an Araknis AN-310-RT-4L2W - 'Warning for future use only'?

If so, does that mean WAN2 is not active? Or does removing the sticker void the warranty? Or something else?

Thanks

Thanks for the links, I checked them out

That first one discusses more about audio, I found this one helpful:

https://ipvm.com/reports/vbr-vs-cbr-surveillance-streaming

Thanks @eggzlot

They're set to record only on motion and save 90 days worth of footage (everything is saved on a small SSD attached to my Mac)

I'm totally fine keeping the resolution lower, but having trouble finding the right one that doesn't 'smoosh' the video/image

As for FPS, is that only relevant for live viewing or recorded video as well?

I'm not sure what the difference is between VBR and CBR, though my old Lilin cameras are set to CBR

Encoding quality seems to be on a scale of 1 to 6

Bought a couple of Amcrest cameras and am playing around with the different settings. Specifically, 

Resolution

H.264 vs H.265

Framerate

VBR vs CBR

Encoding quality

These don't necessarily need to be settings that will work with my C4 system as I rarely access my cameras via C4 (I use the Mac-based NVR software Security Spy instead)

As for the resolution, the options available for the Amcrest cams are:

2592x1944
2688x1520
2048x1536 (3M)
2304x1296
1920x1080 (1080P)
1280x960 (1.3M)
1280x720 (720P)

I had set my resolution to 1080P, but noticed that the feed and recorded videos were a bit 'smooshed'. So, last night, I set them to the full resolution (2592x1944) but that eventually crashed the cams after several hours (ie, they lost connection to the POE switch...I needed to reboot them to get them back online). So, I"ve changed the resolution back to 1080P for the time being.

Thanks in advance

Thanks for that info @eggzlot, very helpful

I plugged it in and checked the C4 app and it’s not showing up, but I don’t know if even some basic configuration is needed before it will show up

Was hoping it would just be plug and play but no such luck

From what I can tell, would probably need some new C4 driver to support the Amcrest, not sure it will work with the pre-existing driver that my dealer had installed for the Lilin

1 minute ago, eggzlot said:

if its the same (or very similar) make/model, you give it the same IP address, the same user namer/password, etc it would work.  Really depends on what drivers are being used to show the cameras in C4.  If anything, its a really quick thing to update.

The old camera was an old, obsolete Lilin - I just ordered an Amcrest, supposed to be delivered today

So now that I know the ethernet line is working, I want to replace the camera (ants had gotten into it and basically ruined it)

If I buy a new POE camera and just plug it in, will it need additional programming in C4 to get it working with C4 (ie, visible on touchscreens, navigators, etc.)?

Had some guys out to move some drops around the house so got them to test the CAT5 that was going to the camera - turns out the end was shorted out

He trimmed a bit off the end of the CAT5 and then re-terminated it and it tested fine after that

So I got the doohickey linked at the bottom today and just set it up

Seems to work great and has a wide 'spread' meaning I don't even have to point the Siri remote directly at it for it to receive the signal

And, as an added benefit, my Denon had a USB port up front so I just plugged the doohickey into that for power

All in all, I'm pleased with this solution

Thanks for the help

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LC7HVHW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hi

My Denon receiver is sitting in a rack in a closet in which we keep the door open all the time

I want to get volume control of the receiver using my new Siri remote that Apple had just released

Currently, the only way to do that without setting up CEC control (which I don't want to do for various reasons) is via line of sight into the closet

Since we keep the closet door open all the time, we can get line of sight, but only if we direct the Siri remote towards the closet and low down in the rack where the receiver sits

In order to do this, one would have to sit in a certain location on the couch when watching Apple TV - if one sits in a different portion of the couch, he would be unable to obtain line of sight to the receiver

There's an IR blaster attached to the receiver currently, I'm guessing for Control4 remote control of the receiver

My question is how do I get IR control from the Siri remote to the receiver without having to do what I mentioned above

Is this a good use of case scenario for something like an IR repeater?

Do I just keep the transmitter portion out in the open in the room and the receiver portion in the rack, directed towards the receiver?

Thanks in advance

Went ahead and factory reset the Connect, deleted S1, re-downloaded S1, created a new S1 system, added back all my music services and favorites and changed all my settings back to what I had before

Had to go into Composer HE and redo the bindings for my 6 button keypad (each button starts a different Apple Music station) b/c, technically, all my Sonos favorites were "new"

But, no issues beyond that

So, now I have a clean S1 showing only the Connect and a clean S2 showing all other Sonos speakers and not the Connect

5 minutes ago, Cyknight said:

No model numbers have been provided because it's all of them 

Not just HP either, and to be clear this is NOT an Araknis issue - I've seen the same on Unifi and others (in fact I don't have a setup where fastroaming works with a wireless printer ANYWHERE yet)

LOL

I typically have had Brother printers in the past and none of them have had an issue with fast roaming - in fact I didn't even know what fast roaming was or that it even existed until I got this HP printer!

Just happened to stumble upon this technical bulletin from Araknis:

https://www.snapav.com/wcsstore/ExtendedSitesCatalogAssetStore/attachments/documents/Networking/SoftwareAndFirmware/AN-AP-I-N_FW_1.1_TSB.pdf

See the bottom of the first page:

"• Does any equipment NOT work with Fast Roaming/Handoff? • Gen 1 Apple iOS products won’t work. Most newer iOS devices work correctly. • We have reports of HP wireless printers not connecting but no model numbers have been provided yet."

My printer? Yup, it's an HP wireless printer

So turning off fast roaming on all 4 APs worked with WPA2-PSK enabled, and even worked in getting the printer on the combined 2.4/5GHz SSID (though I also confirmed that it worked on the 2.4GHz only SSID)

It's too soon to know if turning off fast roaming will effect our everyday wifi usage by our multiple network devices throughout the house

Thanks again for all the help

But if turn fast roaming off for this AP, I need to turn it off for all of them, right?

I guess I misunderstood - you’re suggesting getting another WAP just for the printer

Looks like fast roaming is a global setting for the WAP, so I can’t just have it off for the secondary SSID

Oh well

So let me check in the Araknis WAP SSID config and see where I can turn off fast roaming for the secondary SSID and re-try WPA2-PSK