HRT

Pretty sure there is no way to accomplish this remotely. Was in a similar situation a few weeks ago, and tech support didn't have a way so I don't think you will be able to.

35 minutes ago, mstafford388 said:

That's kind of a personal preference between the flow of the interfaces, and in OS3 you can get interfaces so dialed into specific needs that with a little love you can have a seriously easy to use and effective interface.   Just my opinion though.  Funny thing is with OS3 favorites you can basically do exactly what you like about the Elan interface where when you go to the room you only see AV or commonly used devices then bury the rest (lighting, locks, etc) under the C4 button.  

Kinda but not really the same thing at all as those "hidden lighting, security, comfort are still roomish based. You are correct it is a preference, but also easier for clients to grasp. You search all of your lighting rather than choosing a room then lighting. Rooms as A/V only makes way more sense. I never have to reteach clients the Elan app, the control4 app takes a few weeks/months before I stop getting all the silly questions.

12 hours ago, RyanE said:

That is how Control4 works for Lighting, Shades, Contact/Relay devices, etc... You can select 'all rooms' and also filter for only devices that are on.

AV devices are inherently room-based.

I personally (and I'm biased, of course) think it's a good mix.

RyanE

It doesn't really work like that though. That's a feature only in 3.0, and can easily be defeated by unclicking all rooms and still has you putting the devices in there said rooms and on deeper dive shows the rooms things are in inside other rooms (locks and sensors etc). It makes way more sense if each user saw what you wanted them to see in the subsystems. So if you hit lighting you then choose a floor, area, room etc. Same if hit comfort or security. Then instead of a watch/listen you hit rooms and the rooms are only A/V selections. This is way more logical. Take a look at how the Elan app works (overall not a better or worse system with its own problems and limitations) it flows much more nicely.

There's no chance this would work with current technology. Let's say you are 12 feet from the "beacon" device in the room you want. You could also be 12 feet away from it in a room below, above, or to the side. This best solution is for the app to be sub system based and not room based which makes way more sense in other control systems that have it that way.

11 minutes ago, ChrisM said:

I'm a bit surprised that these button's aren't programmable / removable. Hopefully sometime soon. 

I wouldn't get your hopes up, these buttons have been asked to be removed for over 10 years from their touchscreens/ipads/phone interfaces also. Its a part of the proxy, so unless they make a new proxy they are there.

1 hour ago, lippavisual said:

Pretty sure Bond controls Rollease motors too.

I worked on a take over job the last few weeks from URC to Control4. His previous two dealers? had installed somfy in some rooms and Rollease in the other. The bond obviously worked with the somfy, but did not work with the Rollease. The commands will learn in but they don't work. Think there is something else propitiatory going on inside their signal like a rolling garage code.

42 minutes ago, RyanE said:

There is not currently a way to do this, as the buttons that are shown are based on which proxy the device is using (cable, in this case), not the specific device itself.

RyanE

 

What's funny or sad whichever way you want to look at it is those buttons have never been needed in a system since the proxy came out! I guess one could argue for the CC button for the occasional use (95% of cable/sat boxes this is done through the menus and not by a command), but having the input button basically defeats the whole purpose of a control system/universal remote.

I added a liftmaster 850LM, which is a universal receiver for liftmaster transmitters in a way it wasn't quite designed for. I learned it to the buttons in my wifes car, and then used 2/3 outputs to go into contact inputs on my controller that trigger scenes. So in her car which has three built in buttons on just toggles the garage door, the second opens the garage door, unlocks the garage man door, unlocks the back door, and turns on lights if no lights are on already, and the third button closes the garage door locks the two doors and turns the house lights to away mode.

I think the bond can do rolling code RF (modern garage door) but only ones publicly available (somfy shades) so I don't think you are going to get it to work.

They did have a problem with the first run of rockers from the first run of the new APD/FPD dimmers. On our first few installs we had to swap them all out when the fixed their manufacturing issues (poor tolerance control on the machinary), but I've also noticed that some of the first run of dimmers cause even the newer plates to pop off and break based on a mixture of them in my own house with minimal pressing as 95% of our control is off of keypads.

20 hours ago, Cyknight said:

Very correct - though a few months late.

haha yeah thats true, but I didn't revive this thread and if others were reading the would think the info was correct.

On 2/3/2020 at 9:51 AM, snipboy said:

I am considering getting another HC-250 to be used as a Slave to another HC-250 (Director/Controller). I am currently on 2.10.6 and don't have any intention of going to OS3 at the present time. 

1. Can I use a Slave HC-250 to upgrade some Embernet devices I have before making it a slave -- roll it back to 2.5.3? 

2. Can I use the HC-250's IR ports for controlling some devices once it is in Slave mode?

3. Does a Slave HC-250 require a TCP/IP connection or will it auto connect to the HC-250 via Zigbee Pro?

4. If i do upgrade to OS3 and get an HC-800 or greater controller, can I still use the HC-250's as slaves or to control items with their IR ports?

TIA!

Jeff

On 2/3/2020 at 10:08 AM, msgreenf said:

1 yes
2 yes
3 no. Ip
4 no. No 250s period on os 3

1. You can't use a HC-250 to upgrade embernet devices. Only HC-200,300,500's will do the upgrade.

1 minute ago, WholeHomeControl said:

The explanation was this:  if you have a single connection from the Triad to the Denon, then you cannot simultaneously play two separate sources through the Triad to the two zones connected to the Denon.  This is categorically true.  It's just simple physics!

He has a 24 zone triad with only 8 zones used, so he clearly has the ability to run a second set of analog cables to the denon as that's what he asked to do. Just trying to help the guy not get confused by misleading posts.

Sure that is pretty simple, but you said However, the two zones fed through the Denon will not be able to play separate sources from the Triad simultaneously.

1 minute ago, WholeHomeControl said:

What, exactly, isn't true at all?   Are you referring to the entire post or the last sentence?

Mainly the sentence in bold, but more your explanation of it not working. Personally I would never set a system up that way but it does work. Even when the didn't have the ability to make it work, you could use a separate zone 2 driver  to alleviate the path issues (lots of our old jobs from the mid 2000's used zone 2's and 3's for entry level condo systems)

6 hours ago, WholeHomeControl said:

There is one minor limitation here that may not impact you practically, but you should be aware. 

Generally, every zone connected through the Triad matrix has the ability to play its own separate source.  That is, zone A can listen to source X, zone B can listen to source Y, etc.

However, the two zones fed through the Denon will not be able to play separate sources from the Triad simultaneously.  That is, if you are playing source X (via the Triad) in the Denon's main zone, you cannot play source Y (via the Triad) in the Denon's zone 2.  This is for the simple reason that you have only one physical path from the Triad to the Denon.

If the receiver has two analog audio inputs, you could in theory run two connections from the Triad to the receiver to overcome this limitation.  However, this is seldom done in practice and may not work reliably.

This isn't true at all. While I highly recommend against using a zone 2 for anything other than custom programming for an all stereo situation with a room too close to a 5.1/7.1 zone or a small two room setup. He has a 24 zone triad, so he can definitely send two independent zone outs from the triad to the denon. You have to use the AV path-setter driver to delineate which zone uses which zone out from the triad matrix.

The main two issues with using a zone 2 in this scenario are turn on time (your triad zone directly to an amp are instantaneous while a denon zone 2 takes about 6-7 seconds before you will hear audio), not being able to use this zone in an announcement due to this delay.

Other thing to mention if you are using the denon for video processing, on the analog input you use for the triad zone out for the main 5.1 room use the options button to set the video to your preferred video source, that way you will have that video still up when you choose music as lots of people like to have a ball game on but with music.

1 hour ago, RyanE said:

I'd probably write a driver.

RyanE

 

You could just modify the room control driver to add an led color per station preset, room off, etc. right?

2 hours ago, Amr said:

Yes, I will need to have an exact size of the DS1, I can't decrease or Increase ... Sad Story ...

They make a bracket to directly replace a DS1 with a DS2 mini. same footprint. For the full DS2 it is a different size.

another way you could notify yourself without having to have a light on would be to change a color of a keypad button from green to red or whatever colors you like, or change all the colors on all of your dimmers using the LED wizard driver. This is if you had control4 dimmers/keypads.

Make sure you put the dial back to 1.

Is it the dimmer or switch model? Do you have the correct driver installed?

There's a lot of good info here explaining that yes they do take more time than standard 50 cent light switches. If they are being installed in new home with no switches already, I could see someone making the case they take the same time or roughly a little bit more. Except your discussing a retrofit and leaving out many details that would determine how much extra time. Here's just a few things I can think of off the top of my head on top of as mentioned above the mixture of different wiring schemes.

1. How many 3-5 gang locations do you have? As others have mentioned they are deeper and all wires might need to be trimmed and cleaned up to fit all dimmers inside if really long leads were left and long leads on neutrals and hots tied behind the switches.

2. Are you replacing all the dimmers in said 3-5 gangs? Or just doing 1 or 2 dimmers from a 3-5 gang in each room? The time to do one might be lets say 10 mins from taking off the plate to replacing the plate, but doing two might take 13 mins or 15 mins for 3 as you are sharing the time of the tasks between the dimmers instead of one, multiply all that extra time across a house it adds up.

3. If you are only replacing 1 or 2 from a 4-5 gang and the neutral is over on the left side of the box and you are replacing the far right two, you still are taking all the switches out to get to a wire the new dimmers to the neutral and then placing them all back level and fit even if you aren't changing those.

4. Adding in the mix of 3 ways, keypads the same concepts from 1-3 apply. Are the 3,4,5 way locations he's taking multiple spots off to rewire for one load, but not changing other dimmers in the boxes and so forth. Also with the aux dimmers or keypads where 3 way switches were you might not have a neutral at all, so while not hard as others have mentioned you just jump the other traveler as a neutral, but that's one or 4 more wire in the neutral wire nut, or a second neutral junction might need to be created. Which requires more wire management behind the much deeper dimmers.

Your dealer is saying it doesn't take longer, because clearly he is saying what you want to hear to get out of the conversation, he doesn't do electric installation hence hiring an electrician, he's not super versed in non brand new construction installs, or he's an amazingly fast and competent electrician installing c4 for years but doesn't have a license so he can't install yours.

Either way him setting a set amount per device is probably going to be cheaper for you than actual time and materiel which most electricians would want to charge in a retrofit.

Did you play with changing the repeats? Are you sure the codes did learn in correct? I typically learn IR in with other software that shows the encoding format and other info. Or use IR scrutinizer to see one good code to generate the others.

35 minutes ago, AidenL said:

Any progress on this? 

Still missing for me. 

There is a beta app available if you can't wait for the update in the apple app store. You can ask your dealer for the link.

Just now, msgreenf said:

21p

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 

that one is designed for the 4232cbm. Its been a while but If i remember the 128bpt has a direct rs232 connection and you can also try to hook up the 4232cbm and it almost works with the driver. The job I tried it on last year, waited for another button push after arming/disarming and I think you could work around it by jumping back a page and hitting the enter, but for the homeowner it wasn't smooth. The old ademco driver works, but you don't get the new gui and now 3.0

1 minute ago, msgreenf said:

Works perfectly in my house

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 

what model vista do you have?