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Is toslink/optical or digital coax better?

Should I avoid using eARC between a Control4 connected TV (Samsung Frame 2022) and Marantz AVR? it was recommended years ago to me to use separate TOSlink or digital coax connections instead but I don’t know if that is still the recommendation

Can I do anything to prevent the Hub from disabling every other device on the switch when the Hub goes nuts? Phillips suggests not using a switch but I don’t want it disabling the other router ports.

Was afraid that was going to be the answer. Thanks. It seems to be happening about once a month. With 9 bulbs it could take a while. I’ll see what Phillips has to say.

I currently have a Hue Bridge v2 and Gen 1 and or Gen 2 lights. Been having a problem in the last couple months where something happens with a light (don’t know which one) that renders the bridge and all devices on the same network switch unreachable. The only way to fix it is to physically turn off the switch to the fixture with a bulb that’s on and turn it back on which wakes every device on the switch again. The internet says this may be related to a bulb going bad but I have no idea how to figure out which one. I would like to drop use of the bridge and control the latest generation (3? 4?) of lights directly from Control4. Can this be done? (Apparently you can control 10 lights without a bridge; I have 9). Is there another/better option for Control4 controllable lights these days?

This is/was unnecessary. When you select Zappiti as the source, C4 will turn it on and set the proper AVR output. Never heard the problem with dual HDMI but the Zapitti’s second HDMI output is audio only. I presume you are running primary to the AVR and not using the second?

The software on the Zappiti or the Chowmain driver?

The balun does have RS232 Phoenix connectors so that’s the plan now. Thanks!

What is this? What happens if you turn it on again quickly? (Not that I can see doing this deliberately?) That brings me to another question. What cabling do I need if I want to be ready for serial as a backup? I will have a HDBT receiver at the TV but don’t understand what’s needed from the Ex-Link port on the One Connect box to the HDBT. Samsung site seems to indicate their is some sort of Exlink to RS232 dongle only available to certified installers. I was hoping a 3 point 3.5mm cable could be run from ExLink to balun (with another from the video matrix in the rack to an EA5 serial port)

IP control / specific address was always the plan until I read some (apparently outdated) info that said IP was buggy and unreliable with (earlier model) Frames. Sometimes I make things harder for myself by trying to cover all the bases…

Went back to Magnolia today on an unrelated matter and one of the consultants convinced my wife this is a bad idea and we should just run all sound through the AVR so I now have one less issue to worry about. (For my safety I did not remind her that was my recommendation in the first place and the way the TV works now)

Senior moment. C4 control of Art Mode off/on and TV on/off is critical. Any app control is a bonus. Thanks for the help and clarification.

Being able to control Art Mode is paramount. I would like to have the TV go to Art Mode using the Frame TV sensors when it senses someone is in the room (and be able to program events on Art Mode activation (light and sound) but if that’s not possible/practical/reliable I could ignore/disable the built in sensor and use the NYCE motion doctor in the room to trigger programming. I’m also hoping there is a way to query the status of Art Mode (on, off) Don’t really care about controlling TV apps but would like to set up mini drivers for YouTube, Amazon Prime and whatever other mini drivers would work. Given the above I should use IP and not serial or IR? I can run rs232 ir IR over the HDBT balun but hoping it’s not needed.

Because she liked the sound in the showroom and said we should get the TV if she could have a way to easily switch between audio options. I would set it through the AVR as default and hope she forgets about the other option since I generally run the TV

I guess my question is what cables do I need to connect the ex-link on the one connect box to a serial port on an EA5. The one connect is in a bedroom and the EA5 is on the rack in the basement. I presume I could use an existing cat5 cable in the raceway but have no clue on how to get the proper 3.5mm connections on both sides.

My wife wants the option to use the screen speaker on a Sony A80K TV and there is no connection to use it as a center channel.

i don’t see a serial port on the one connect box. Is there some sort of Ex-link to RS232 converter?

I have a TV where the sound is provided through an AVR with the built in TV speaker volume set to zero (probably like most). I would like a way to have two navigator icons - one where sound is as above, one where the found would be at some non-zero TV speaker volume and with the AVR powered off. can that be done? If so how? I was thinking about a macro but would like to have something in the navigator to set or choose a default. Would that require two audio endpoints for the room? I presume one for the AVR and one for the TV?

Are there any issues/limitations with the latest C4 drivers for the 2022 Samsung Frame TV? Does IP driver support all commands for the One Connect including power on/off and art mode on/off? is there a need for serial and/or IR control? Thanks

Looks like it’s gonna be AVPro. Thanks all.

What function(s) do you lose without 2 way control?

Looking at replacing video matrix to one that supports 4K I have Binary B-500-MTRX-230-8x8. Video switch w/ HDBaseT. Looking for one that will support 4k, 8x8 (min 6x6), Good C4 support, IP control. I would love to be able to use existing baluns if possible since a couple are hard to get too but I really don’t know how they work, if they are interchangeable (or if current ones can only do 1080P) Appreciate any suggestions/education on what to look for. Hoping not to break the bank. Thanks.

Turns out an entire bank of a WatBoxx 700 died and a the EA5 and a few other devices had no power. So, fortunately an easy fix.

I have the same problem. Worked fine until I added a new WiFi lock on another door. Before 3.2.4 the original front door lock worked but the newer WiFi one on the entry door would work for a few days and then lose track of status. After 3.2.4 both locks go AWOL shortly after reboot making any status checking and commands useless. I need the inside mount versions that work the existing lock so switching to Yale is not an option.

Well, probably not a remote problem. My entire Zigbee network appears to be offline today.