HomeAutomationNerd

On 8/29/2022 at 5:18 AM, JSTRONG said:

Is it suggested to just keep continuous power to the Hue Fixtures/Bulbs and just have the Control4 keypads for Hue Scenes?

I have never figured out a way to do this. Any time a power outage happens, or a breaker trips, all the switches sensibly default to "Off". 

What's I've done for Hue is make all the switches into 2-button keypads, and when the Top Butting is pressed I have a 2 line program "If Power is Off then Turn On Power". This has worked well. 

> [,,,] Make sure your Poll interval is set

The recent Hue API has full push features via Server Sent Events. Designed specifically for home automation system Intergrations. No polling. Very little latency. Hopefully the C4 Bridge driver can be updated to use this. See here. Actual API Docs are behind their auth prompt. Here's a simple Github example in Node.

> The T3 & T4 have the functionality, it is under a long press of the bulb icon > color

Indeed!! Long Press. Confirmed on T3 and T4 devices. Thanks. 

> What kind of switch are you binding it too?

I'm using the C4-SW120277. Set to "Use as a 2 button keypad", with the same connections you show. This means I need a custom macro to set power, as turning the keypad on won't necessary power up the Hue lights. I end up adding the script to make this foolproof - every time it's turned on, the lights should turn on. This includes after a power outage, or whatever.

("Island Pendants - Load" is the name of the physical switch, which is hidden in the navigators. The "Island Pendants" is the name of the Hue Switch.)

Connections are the same as you showed - from the physical switch to the Hue Light. 

@LollerAgentI had assumed full support from the various media online. Hue support has taken a step forward, but it's nowhere near "Fully" supported. 

After a bit of trial and error, I've got the 3.3 Updates working with Hue. 

The Good:

1. The IOS App has color wheel and presets now, and works nicely. 
2. Hue Zones are picked up, and bound to the Hue Bulb. Much nicer, and colors and brightness stay in sync far better than before. 

The Bad:

1. Doesn't pickup Hue events (aka: Do something in the Hue App). Hue API supports streamed events, so things could stay in sync. C4 bridge driver needs an update. 
2. The T3 screens just give dimming. No color wheels or presets. 
3. The T4 screens just give dimming. No color wheels or presets. 
4. When bound to a switch, I still have to program the on/off behavior. By default, turning off the switch cuts power to the Hue bulb. Custom settings still appear needed. 
5. Needed an additional controller reboot to pickup lights from the bridge driver. 

I would love thoughts on the best approach to #4. That is, how best to setup the switches to support Hue? 

I've never gotten an integration with Moen and C4 to work. Honestly, while I love the Moen product, I don't use the connected features. It's easy enough to just this the button to turn it on and off. 

There's a Github package, and the API looks pretty simple:
madenwala/Moen.U.Api: C# API for U by Moen (github.com)

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If you are going to be doing a lot in the hue app, get the unilogiq driver instead.

Does the Unilogiq driver actually do bidirectional communication with Hue? That is, if I update a hue Bulb via the Hue app, will C4 system see it? The C4 driver is purely passive, and I would love to switch to a more active driver. 

I've got a new Yale Assure lock, all programed into a Control4 system. 

When I lock the lock via the Control4, the lock cycles twice and then reports an error code. The lock does *physically* lock. 

Is there some calibration that needs to somehow be done on the lock? Turning the lock/unlock knob works great and is smooth. 

The LUA Console gives back: 

ZL.logPacketTransmission(): class[Inbound] frameType[ClusterSpecific] clusterId[0x0009][Alarm] commandId[0x00][Alarm] sequenceNumber[0x94]

Inbound.Handlers.Alarm(): alarmId[0x09][DeadboltJammed]

LockReport_LockStatus  Status: fault  Description:   Source: Yale Lock  ManualCaused: false

This is happening on 2 Yale Locks (one new Assure, and one Yale Real Living). I'll contact Yale Tech support on Monday, but was hoping to get this fixed sooner... 

I installed the Chime over a 1/2 depth box. It looks horrible (!!). 

The Ethernet connector on the back of the Chime is a nightmare of "r/assholedesign" proportions. 

The product would be better if the Ethernet plugged directly into the product. As it sits, you need a > 1/2" hole in your plate to fit the connector through, and you need a deep enough box to hold the connector, and enough space to squish the cable in. If you don't have a box mounted into the house (I don't, but I do have Ethernet) I would avoid this product. 

If anyone comes up with a 3D Printed box, I would be interested. Embedding a box into the house in this location isn't an option. 

I was just trying to mount it, and need a wedge or standoff of some sort. Eufy seems the closest in size, but not quite right...

I wouldn't deal with injectors.

Just put a POE Switch on the other end of the cable. You can then easily power the switch with a UPS as well. 

Once you have POE, you'll not go back. Camera's, T3s, Doorbells, Control4 EA1 and EA3s, etc. Not having to separately manage power is... great. 

I'm using the latest LG 48" OLED and it's spectacular. 120hz, 4k, HDR OLED panel. IP Control via the Annex4 driver works quite well. 

Generally speaking, folks seem to say the higher-end Sony TV's have good IP control through Control4

24 minutes ago, ejn1 said:

For the longest time FreeNAS used SMB2 or SMB3 protocol and C4 only was able to access via the older and less secure SMB1 protocol so didn't work.@Köhler Medientechnik

They seem to have updated quite a bit of the internals. For example, Node went from v6 to v10. Hopefully they did a general O/S update as well, and pulled in all the latest (and more secure) Samba and File system drivers. 

With the Node update, I wonder if they're considering running Homebridge on the EA1/3/5. That would bring a huge new feature set...

Any word on Color Wheels for a T3 or T4? Still looking for improved Hue integrations... 

I'm on the latest version, so far as I can tell. It's all updated through IOS. I'll shoot an email off to Akuvox support tomorrow, as I'm sure there's some SIP Proxy setting that I'm missing.

Using Intercom Anywhere, I only get signaling from the Akuvox. No Audio, no video. I get a notification on my IOS device, press "Answer", then nothing. 

The Akuvox works *just fine* with the T3's. Using a T3, I can answer the call and communicate with whomever is at my front door. 

It seems as though I'm missing some outbound proxy setting, and the Intercom Anywhere app needs that. 

I'm on IOS 14. Intercom Anywhere works great with the T3s. 

It's only with the Akuvox that I get signaling, but no media stream. I wonder if there is some proxy I need to enable, but after going through all the settings I didn't see anything. 

@Jack_Ckun 

How did you get the Akuvox to work with Intercom Anywhere? I've got it working locally against the T3's, but through Intercom Anywhere I get signaling but no media stream. Can you screen shot, or share, your relevant Control4 and/or Akuvox settings? 

I've got an Akuvox R20A (Doorbell + camera) working locally with C4 Intercoms (the T3's etc). I'm on Control4 OS 3.1.3. 

Intercom Anywhere is having problems. Through the IOS Intercom Anywhere app, I get signaling from the Akuvox ("Incoming Call") by no media stream. That is, I get the IOS notification for an incoming call, I hit the "answer call" button and then nothing.  

The T3's work properly thorough Intercom Anywhere, so basic connectivity and setup is good. I've been all through the Akuvox Wiki, to no avail.

Has anyone gotten this working? 
 

The solution, in case anyone hits this: 

1. Plug a *different tv* into the HDMI. In my case, I grabbed a 4k Dell Monitor with an HDMI input.
2. The OSD came up cleanly on the Dell. 
3. Plugged the HDMI back into the LG. The OSD now works cleanly on the LG. 

On 7/20/2020 at 4:25 PM, Neo1738 said:

For heated towel rack we decided to get one (pretty cheap on amazon like $350) that has direct or plug in option. Used the 120v plug and put in a kasa in wall flush outlet kp200 which can be controlled via chowmain driver

Alright, I'm doing the same thing. Just ordered the Kasa, and will get it working that way. Seems the easiest solution. 

In the Hue App, do you have the startup value set? I wonder if it's remember the last setting ("Very Very Dim") before "Turn off". There's a checkbox in there for "turn on at last value", and I wonder if that's what causing this? 

@annex⁴

I've got a number of scenarios that would integrate well:

1. Ability to enable/disable a device from the network (Wifi and otherwise). Doing this via C4 programming would be ideal. 
2. Show a QR Code on a T3 that let's someone join the Wifi network. Easy to do, especially for IOS devices. Scenario here is guests coming over and needing to be on the wifi. They walk over to a T3, hit the "Join Network" button, and point their IOS Camera at the QR Code. From there, they're on the network. 
3. Integrate with Greenlight, so if the kids chores are not done, no wifi for them.
4. Turn down the LEDs on the Wifi Access Points via C4 programming (or automated with schedules). 
5. Pop up an event in the Intercom Anywhere app (or similar) when a *new* device joins my Wifi network. 
6. Give me an event in programming for "iPhone XYZ connects to Wifi". This is probably me driving home and the phone connecting.
7.  

When I was buying switches for my house, here's the excel spreadsheet that I put together to figure out what was what. There are probably mistakes here, but finding this info in one spot was difficult...  

I got this working, after a bit of trial and error. 

Scenario: 

 

Room 1: Garage (default volume 35). 2 speakers, plugged into a C4 Amp+Matrix. 

Room 2: Garage Audio (default volume 35, hidden in navigation). 2 speakers, plugged into a C4 Amp+Matrix. 

 

Step 1: Add Room Control Driver to Garage room. Leave Default Name. 

 

Step 2: Add Source Selection Sync Programming

Select the room "Garage"

Select the Room Control Driver. 

Choose Event "Entered Listen Mode". Program with:

 

Step 3: Programming Add Volume Sync Listening 

Select the Garage, open up Room Variables, and select "When Current Volume Changes". Add programming to keep the other room in sync:

 

Step 4: Enable Room Off - Programming. 

In the Garage, select the event "Power Off". Set it to trigger the other room to turn off. I would think this step isn't needed due to the room control driver, but it seems to be needed. 

 

 

How this interacts with ShareBridge, which is configured across both rooms, is "too be determined". At least for now, Tidal, Pandora, and all local music work like a charm. 

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 Im on OS 3.1.3 for reference. 

It's weird to see this problem across both an EA3 and an EA1. The HDMI is clearly fine. It's got to be a controller / config issue of some sort. 

Version wise, I'm on 3.1.3.x across all the devices.