LollerAgent

40 minutes ago, JSTRONG said:

Definitely not. Touch will be more $$

Ah yeah - sorry, I had it backwards.

$900 MSRP on the Halo Touch, $500 MSRP on the Halo.

Remind me.. MSRP on the Halo Touch is less than the Halo, right?

What was the "other" company that recently disappeared?  DAM-It?

Yeah - this is a fairly common issue, unfortunately. 

A dedicated 2.4Ghz SSID helps, but I still go through spurts where they just wig out and drop/reconnect to WIFI several times.  

10 hours ago, mujtaba.khokhar said:

Which audio matrix do you have now? 

Could just be DSP settings.

Muj

Yeah - I would agree.  This sounds like a DSP/config issue.

30 minutes ago, msgreenf said:

Have him look at DNS settings on your router 

DNS gets thrown around here quite often about this and that, but how would slow or broken DNS affect sound quality?

On 10/17/2022 at 12:08 AM, Cyknight said:

I've certainly seen this on numerous models (including at my own house). Near as I can tell This is primarily, if not only, on Netflix (haven't been able to recreate with prime or disney) - so it may be more an issue in the app than anything else (for me it's only if it's a running show, not from any netflix home screen).

I've set up one with a line of programming:

On Roku power off

delay 250ms

send cancel

delay 250ms

send cancel

delay 250ms

send home.

 

So far that seems to catch it, but this is fairly recent ( a few weeks) and for me at least it wasn't constant.

Is this programming on the Roku it's self (eg, the "Roku" sub-device under the "Roku Apps" driver)?  This driver has on/off programming available, but it doesn't actually trigger for me.

What I have gotten to work for Hulu is adding programming "on room off" to power off the Roku.  This seems to work as expected. But, it doesn't work for Netflix.  Where do you program the "send home" function?  I don't see this as an option in the Roku programming.

Thanks all -- this is what I expected, but thought I would check!

I have many advanced lighting scenes (ALS) and they are very specifically named to keep the names unique (eg, "Master bedroom relax," "Master bedroom bright," etc).  

I have some of these ALS' favorited on navigators, so I can quickly activate them from navigators (T3, etc).  The long name of the ALS is cut off on T3's which makes it difficult to know which scene I'm activating.  Is there a way to change the name as it appears on the navigator?  For example, instead of the T3 showing a favorite for "Master bedroom relax," I just want to see "Relax."

10 minutes ago, TFlury said:

Honestly I love it, it was low cost and fits the role I needed. It will some times have handshake issues with my Xbox One X using a fiber HDMI but all other sources have no issues ( Fire TV 4k, chrome cast, spectrum cable box, normal Xbox One, Nintendo Switch, PS4, Retro Pie, EA5 HDMI for streaming audio no OSD). Analog and digital audio extraction, matrixing, and volume control all work great.

But as Dueport said they have no drivers so I had to build one for it.

What baluns are you using with the Blackbird?

1 hour ago, msgreenf said:

I didn't see in your troubleshooting where you rebooted the roku's?

Sorry, I have definitely rebooted the Rokus.  Several times.

22 minutes ago, DanITman said:

Does the BW driver behave the same?  I use that driver because I already paid for it.  I'm not experiencing these same issues.  Just curious what would happen if you try a trial on that driver. 

Not sure - I would rather not have to buy a driver since C4 provides one for free.  

I have a few outstanding Roku issues that I was hoping someone may be able to help with.

First, I have the "On Power Off" property of the Roku driver set to "HOME" in an effort to make the Roku stop streaming and return to the "HOME" menu each time the room powers off.  This doesn't seem to work on any of my Roku Ultras (both newest gen, and the previous generation).  Do I need additional programming beyond this setting?  Does it work for anyone?  I find that my Roku will continue to stream for hours sometimes even when the room is powered off.

Secondly, I have one Roku I can no longer launch the mini-drivers/apps from a powered off state.  For example, when I hit "Netflix" on a remote from a powered off state, instead of launching the Netflix app, I get the Roku's home screen.  Once powered on, the mini-drivers seem to work fine.  For example, I can hit "Hulu" on my remote when Netflix is launched and Hulu launches properly.  I verified the connections are made correctly as far as I can tell. 

I'm running the latest version of the Roku driver (144).  Any tips would be greatly appreciated! 

On 9/8/2022 at 12:30 PM, 416to305 said:

I haven't yet and only because they aren't a Lutron dealer they kinda have been throwing up their hands blaming Lutron.  I have no issue with Caseta or when I had RA2.  I'll reach out again and see if they can open a ticket.

In terms of stability on RA3, it's rock solid and is a great upgrade and works very well.  It's just the C4 integration that's poor especially compared to RA2.

- No support for scenes, so can't create a scene on the bridge and trigger it from C4

- All keypads import into programming with actions like "double tap, triple tap" etc, yet none of those functions work.

- No ability to control the LED lights on keypads at all

- Keypads come up under connections and let you bind the buttons to other lights or relays, yet it doesn't work or do anything when pressing the buttons

I'm sad to hear this.  Hopefully the bugs get worked out and these features get implemented soon-ish!

5 hours ago, ekohn00 said:

Actually the controllers are functional in establishing and reestablishing a client and done with roaming. And yes it is the same on with the unifi controller. 

I don't think so.  Link?

3 hours ago, wnpublic said:

Uh, not only does "not truly a controller-based Wi-Fi" system make no sense wrt UniFi, but roaming and handoff in an 802.11 session doesn't involve or require a controller.  It's between the client and the APs.  But go on about I'm the one who doesn't know what they're talking about.  And i'm sure you'll post your data showing the comparative handoff quality.

Roaming actually *can* involve a controller and does in many systems (look at Cisco WLC, Ruckus LWAPP, etc).  While Unifi *does* have a controller, it's more passive in the sense that it's not actively participating in the access point/client session.

4 hours ago, tonyu1 said:

Yes, it’s current on the 1st floor, coverage and speed on the 3rd is crappy.

This is likely your main problem.  One WAP will most likely not adequately cover three stories.

Do you only have one AP covering three stories?

16 hours ago, Andrew luecke said:

We always used https://www.blustream.com.au/cat100au . Low latency, no quality loss.

Xantech offers the same models in the US.

https://www.xantech.com/product/audio-over-cat-cable-built-dac-XT-CAT-ARC-KIT

This is my go-to.  It includes a DAC as well.

https://www.xantech.com/product/audio-over-cat-cable-built-dac-XT-CAT-ARC-KIT

EDIT:  Actually, Roku Ultra's no longer have optical outs, so if you want to use the kit above, you will need to extract audio from your TV's optical out.  I do this with Samsung and it works fine but YMMV.

19 hours ago, Andrew luecke said:

If you have network issues, on most jobs you'll be having trouble controlling things anyway.

Network issues are also easy to fix, and even easier to diagnose. The problem is, people put unmanaged switches in , don't turn on the mechanisms designed to protect the network, or use cheap equipment. When I was an installer, we avoided 99% of that by mostly refusing to use unmanaged switches. Honestly, most of the other issues we have were easy to identify because of the smart switches.

Wifi 7 is 30gbps. Even with interference, congestion will likely matter less too.

Also, it's less likely ZigBee coverage in a house will be sufficient. I've seen cases where insufficient controllers were installed, and control got sketchy in another room because someone walked in front of it 

To be fair, the WIFI chipset (or software/implementation, etc) in the Neeo is absolutely horrid.  There are known issues that have been proven by numerous people.

2 hours ago, msgreenf said:

you go across 4sight, if you have the is locally accessible disabled on your camera driver.  the traffic routes to the control4 cloud and from the cloud down to your controller. If you have directly accessible meaning you have a public IP on your camera, then the mobile app will connect directly to that IP

But, please don't make your security cameras directly accessible from the internet.  It's a bad idea.

20 hours ago, LollerAgent said:

Yeah - same issue.  Turning a Roku room "off" does not stop the stream.

Just discovered the "On Power Off" option in the driver config.  Will try this and report back.

Yeah - same issue.  Turning a Roku room "off" does not stop the stream.

14 hours ago, Topfox said:

Has anyone seen an occurrence of this.

I have 12 hue color bulbs hooked up to a C4-SW120277.  When I turn on the lights either through the switch in 2 button mode or through the C4 IOS App the lights come on at the correct default color which is just a warm yellowish color like a standard bulb. However, when I turn the lights off the bulbs switch right before they turn off to a bright white color. I need to double check, but I think this only happens when I turn off through one of the options and not both the switch and the app. Can’t remember if it was the App or directly at the switch, need to run a test again. It’s not a huge deal of course, but slightly annoying when it happens and I’m paying attention. Like a nagging mini flaw in my system. Lol

If you are in fact cutting power to the bulbs, you need to use the Hue app to configure the bulbs to power back on to the previous color/brightness.  It's a configurable option within the Hue app.