LollerAgent

Ah ha -- I should have checked Shelly!  Thanks for the tip!

Anybody know of a decently priced humidity sensor I can use with C4?

Nyce motion sensors have a humidity sensor, but their driver(s) are not capable of utilizing it.  They don't seem interested in adding the functionality either.

Axxess has a motion sensor with a humidity sensor, but at nearly $300, the price is ridiculous.

Any thing that I may be able to integrate via DSC?  My goal is to turn on fans in my bathrooms when humidity is high.

Anybody have a used (or new depending on price) MS-C4ZB-H?  It has to be the one that has the internal humidity sensor.  

2 hours ago, Amr said:

I had to use NAD node as native C4 doesn’t work outside USA, so there is no iHeart Radio, Pandora and SirusXM for xample, so I have BlueSound, Sonos, and Duet+ to cover all my sources, Duet+ gives me Pandora, YouTube and native Spotify!

Huh - I had no idea native C4 audio didn't work outside of the USA.  Thats a bummer, but I guess it's fine if Blusound sounds better anyways.

On 4/28/2023 at 1:05 PM, Amr said:

Well u can keep everything as is and get your self a BlueSound Node, Incredible DAC, tons of streaming services, u will be happy!

In this case, you aren't using C4's native audio services at all?   You need one node per discrete audio stream (eg, if I want Spotify in one room, Pandora in another at the same time, I need two nodes)?

4 minutes ago, Mark S said:

Thanks - and does anyone know if there is a Sharebridge equivalent of "auto play"?

You mean automatically activating a zone when you start playing to a zone from the Spotify app?  If so, yes, it's called "Auto Play" on the driver config.

On 4/22/2023 at 8:39 AM, dinom said:

Maybe it’s just me, but after looking at these screen shots I like the older menu style better. The new icons are much smaller and don’t match the style of the buttons on the main screen. The color scheme doesn’t look good to me either. Oh well. 

Yeah - I agree.  The styling of the new menu is pretty bad.  The icons/fonts of the "old" menu are much nicer in my opinion.  

5 minutes ago, booch said:

I've got 12 subs in the ceiling and it's not bad. If have the volume in a zone way up there can be a little vibration transfer, but it's better than I would have expected. Only soundproofing I have is insulated interior walls in rooms with AV. Kind of like ceiling speakers, it's a trade off for a convenient form factor. And while I don't claim my system is audiophile quality, it's good enough for me (and better than a lot of homes I've heard). My ceiling speakers are all 8" and I can't imagine them without the subs -- would sound like an elevator, ha.

Which subs are you using?

Looks good.  I use the 45deg channels for some of my toe-kick lighting as well.  Makes installation a breeze.

2 hours ago, ajd123 said:

12. LED accent lighting above / below cabinetry, in walls along staircases and under treads hidden in the projection of the bullnose.

Do you have any pictures of the stairs and bullnose lighting?

RGBWW accent lighting (DMX)

Simple automations like "Goodbye" and "Goodnight"

Whole-home audio (we love music) combined with keypads and "join the scene" programming

8 hours ago, Andrew luecke said:

Finally, imho, I wouldn't use Mikrotik in a home environment. They're great units, but, they're designed for experts and specialised applications. If you need support from the C4 community, lots of installers and users would have trouble, and lots of things that is quick on Unifi or other systems, takes more effort on Mikrotik (and the average end user will likely not even know what most of the options are). 

Mikrotik is hugely powerful, and supports things like bgp cheaply. But, your average user has no need for things like this. Whereas, products like unifi are very fast to configure, centrally managed, and its very easy to work out whats happening in the network. 

Mikrotik is *perfectly* suitable for home if you know how to use it.  If not, like you said, you shouldn't use it. 

I can drop a configuration on a Mikrotik router that supports multiple VLANs, etc 10x quicker than I can provision and configure Unifi routers and switches.  To each their own.

On 3/6/2023 at 4:19 PM, oosername said:

I think we need to tighten up our definitions here a little bit. All switches operate at Layer 2 using MAC Addresses. 

A Layer 3 Switch, works on both Layer 2 and Layer 3. Layer 3 of course is Routing. L3 Switches work with IP Addresses themselves.

A L3 Switch isn't doing anything different with L2 traffic than a L2 managed switch does.  That's why Araknis uses the same manual for the L2 210 and the L3 310. Or they're just lazy.

A Managed L2 Switch then, is exactly that. There are no Almost-Managed L2 Switches. Some have better or worse features of course.

The advantage to L3 is speed. There are some things you can do with L2 of course. Although if you're router --> managed switch --> unmanaged, there's only so much you can do.

I wouldn't say the advantage of L3 switches is speed (or that they are faster) -- although they often have beefier ASIC/CPUs because they have to do more.

The advantage of L3 (Layer 3) capable switches are that they support IP routing -- inner VLAN routing (routing between VLANs), some type of dynamic routing protocol like OSPF, etc.  In home or SMB environments, routing is typically handled by a dedicated router.  A "managed" Layer2 switch (that supports VLANs, etc) with a trunk to a router is a common configuration.

2 hours ago, ekohn00 said:

Try making sure you're using direct play with plex. You shouldn't have a problem at all.

This.  You need to figure out why you're transcoding in the first place.  Once that is fixed, you won't have issues.

1 hour ago, msgreenf said:

Have a dealer look at the summary tab for the devices. That will find the programming

No programming for the load at all (as seen on the "summary" tab).  I thought it may be a misconfigured ALS scene too, but I'm not sure this would cause things to turn on/off randomly.  

I think I'll try what Matt suggested, and maybe just re-add the loads to C4 to see if that makes a difference.  

I have two Hue loads that are doing strange things.  They turn on/off at random times (but often on the hour, etc).  I have tried to find any rouge or incorrect programming (using detective suite, etc), but can't find any at all. 

I think it's being triggered from C4 vs the Hue app directly.  What other tools do I have at my disposal to figure out what may be triggering these loads?

1 hour ago, DanITman said:

TCL TVs are very solid.  I've never had any issues with updates and I've always been impressed with them. 

When you pair with a sonos sound bar you get discrete volume as well. 

Yeah - I have a number of them in 'low-traffic' areas -- a 5 series on the patio, a small one in the bathroom, a 6 series in my office, etc.  I have been happy with all of them to be honest.  I wouldn't use the super cheap 3 series, etc, but the 5+ series have all been very solid -- and I don't have to install an extra Roku!

Dealers typically quote you things that:

a) They are comfortable with and knowledgable about
b) That they can get support on from the vendors
c) That they make a decent margin on

SnapOne (who owns C4) owns Araknis, so that is probably why they are quoting the Araknis networking gear.  Personally, I would not pay $750 for an Araknis AP.  In fact, I wouldn't ever install Araknis gear in my own home -- but that doesn't mean it doesn't work -- it's just not my preference.  Ubiquiti works perfectly fine when configured appropriately -- regardless of what folks may tell you.  Your dealer may not be comfortable with Ubiquiti though -- and he certainly isn't going to make as much money selling you Ubiquiti than he would if he sells you Araknis.  He also has someone to call if he needs help with Araknis.  He can probably "guarantee" that it will work as expected, where he may not be able to if you asked him to use Ubiquiti.

Origin makes fantastic speakers -- you really can't go wrong with them if you are willing to pay for them.

2 hours ago, Double D said:

My 2cents. Yes outdoor TVs are expensive, but they are a luxury item with a ton of engineering and premium materials over commodity TVs. 
 

For that premium you get a much brighter panel and anti-reflective screen that is a pleasure to view no matter how sunny it is outside or what time of day. 

There are *tons* of reliability and picture quality issues reported with Sunbrite.  I'd rather not pay a premium for an inferior product.  What brand(s) would you recommend?  

1 hour ago, zaphod said:

Yes, but is it really worth paying something like $3K for something like a Sunbrite TV, compared to $400 for a Vizio or TCL or whatever?  Do they look that much better in the sunlight?

From what I gather, Sunbrite barely looks good when not in the sunlight.

I concur.  Buy a bright cheap TV, do your best to protect it from weather, and replace it if it gets ruined.  How many $300 TV's can I buy for the price of one high-end Sunbrite with medicore picture quality and questionable build quality?  A bunch.

If you want a high-end "real" outdoor TV, maybe consider the Samsung Terrace?

Nevermind - I had a poor connection into the DAC.  PCM output from the TV works fine now.

4 hours ago, therockhr said:

Thanks. Just curious though, what’s that xantec box for? Bring optical to a matrix?

Yep.

For reference, here is a 2021 55" OneConnect box mounted in a 24x24 VersaBox (not the XL).

Does anyone know if it's possible for a Sony (X900F) to output audio it receives via HDMI (from a Roku) out of it's optical output?

This works fine with my Samsung TV's, but having trouble getting it to work on the Sony.

I'm not upset about this.  Blackwire has not been pleasant to deal with in terms of transferring purchased drivers from dealers that have vanished, etc.  Farewell, BWD.