RussellB

Ok, for posterity... I tried all kinds of combinations and couldn't get this to work: 1) Creating "Master Bedroom" and "Master Bedroom TV", setting endpoints appropriately, and programming POWER_STATE to turn off the other room respectively left me in a spot where without the Receiver being used I couldn't change sources (Control 4, Optimum Cable, Amazon Fire Stick, Roku) or control those sources. 2) The Receiver is responsible for changing inputs so trying to use the stand-by pass-thru of this particular receiver only passes through the last selected hdmi port. I was thinking maybe using an HDMI switch to feed the receiver to get past this. 3) Even with the end points setup I still couldn't control the TV audio, or the currently selected device "Master Bedroom TV->Optimum" wouldn't control the cable box. 4) Master Bedroom has no equipment in it except for the endpoints. I may attack this at another time but for now, I can live with it. It's a weird setup in the Master Bedroom. There's also ceiling speakers fed from an Audio Matrix Switch, as well as a Bose surround sound around the bed now being fed by the Sony amp.

I ended up getting a Sony Surround Sound receiver to replace the Pyle. It didn't have the same MUTE problem and works great.

So I'm trying to think this through. Basically I want to replicate the room so I end up with Master Bedroom that has everything in it and a Master Bedroom TV Room that has everything except the Receiver so sound control is via the TV. I can't duplicate the EA-1 in each room so I don't think that's going to work. I think a custom scene is the way to go, turning off the receiver and setting volume control to the TV.

The receiver I'm using has a particular problem, more like behavior. When it's on MUTE, it doesn't accept any other commands except UNMUTE. So if I mute, then power off the room, it remains on mute. I tried doing some custom programming but the "Current Mute is" conditional is disabled. I think I can program it to respond to Mute changes, assume mute is off when the room is off and use a variable to store the state. Is there any other way?

Nice idea! Let me play with that today.

Hi all, I came into this setup, but brought it current by replacing a dead DVD player that also acted as an Amp and replaced an HC250 for an EA-1: Master Bedroom 1) Ceiling speakers tied to the Audio Matrix Switch output (Audio End-Point 1, Video Volume 1) 2) Sony Bravia TV (No room control connections) 3) New Pyle Amplifier attached to a Bose Sound System (5.1) around the master bed (HDMI Out Video End-Point in the room) The amplifier is an HDMI switcher as well so I use it to switch between the EA-1 (On-screen Navigation, Samsung Cable Box, Fire TV, Chromecast) What I'd like to be able to do is sometimes be able to control the volume of the amplifier, and other times be able to control the volume of the TV (yes, the room is that big). And still be able to have music selected in the ceiling speakers. Is this too complicated a setup? aTdHvAaNnKcSe <-- thanks in advance, RussellB

I wrote a driver for the Lennox iComfort that communicates to the cloud API to control the thermostat so it can be done.

As mentioned in the title: HC800 w/ power supply 2 HC250s w/ power cables 1 C4-TW7C0-WH Touch Screen with black mounting hardware 1 SR-250 with minor crack on top right of the controller 1 SR-260 with a dim display, works otherwise. 2 SlingBox 500s with cables and power supplies More you buy better I’ll go with pricing/shipping. Can be boxed and shipped out of NJ within 48 hours of payment. All items are on 2.10.x Make me an offer. **HC800 Sold***

Ok sorry!

Guess I'm about to post two HC250s for sale. What's a good going price for them? I also have an SR-250 that has a slight crack, and an SR-260 with a dim screen, which was a failing of that particular model. Boat anchors?

And HC250s with 3.X = Buy a boat and use them as an anchor?

Hi, Looking to complete an install with three switches, zig-bee compatible. RussellB

I have a leftover 800 that was the main controller now swapped out for an EA-5. What can you still do with an 800? I think I remember it can be used to control other things but it wouldn't have on-screen navigation with 3.X.

Hi, The house is loaded with these switches so I'm looking for two in order to setup a 4-way for a staircase chandelier. aTdHvAaNnKcSe <-- thanks in advance RussellB

Hi all, Is there a way I can test a dimmer/switch/keypad before installing it to make sure it works and is configured for zigbee? aTdHvAaNnKcSe <-- thanks in advance RussellB

Interestingly... the "integration report" from the Caseta Smartbridge Pro shows 100 connections outside of Control4. The previous owner didn't upgrade the kitchen because it would take 14 dimmers/switches/keypads and I guess he didn't want to incur the cost. I put together 6 caseta dimmers, 5 pico remotes and 3 switches all now controlled by Control 4. So "Alexa, turn on kitchen lights" and everything comes up. "Alexa, turn off kitchen lights" does show that 'popcorn-effect' as the switches turn off first while the dimmers fade to off, but I can live with that. The switches are on accent lighting that shouldn't be dimmed. Now for the Philips Hue, I put 17 bulbs out on the front landscape. Power is controlled via a Control4 WHPC-10. So "Alexa, turn on frontyard lights" closes the relay, then sends commands to the bulbs to set them up the way I want. For Halloween they are all orange. For Christmas I'll alternate red, green and white. So far, no complaints.

I'm using the RA2 Select Repeater driver. It supports 100 but that's what the RA2 supports so I assume the Caseta app will cutoff at 75. The kitchen I am automating has 13.

Hi all, The Lutron Caseta integration is spot on for my needs as the original deployment of Control4 was 10 years ago in my current house I bought. I''ve also added a Philips Hue for the outside landscape lights so for Halloween they are all lit orange, and for Christmas it will be alternating white, green, red. Are there any gotchas that I'm not aware of? Russell

Hi, I wanted to share this to see if anyone else has encountered this oddity. I wanted to replace a Harmony remote and hub with the C4Z2IO. The setup is a Toshiba TV, Samsung Cable box and an Amazon Fire TV Stick. I used stock drivers for everything except the Toshiba TV because it doesn't have direct access to inputs; you need to press the INPUT button and then a number corresponding to the input (0-8). So I edited a Toshiba driver to support the INPUT button and tested it with an EA-1 I have waiting to be deployed to another room. Hooking it up got it working with my setup including volume, mute, channel select, input select and control of the Fire TV Stick. When I replaced the EA-1 with the C4Z2IO everything worked EXCEPT for when the inputs changed it wasn't sending the INPUT button so the tv would receive a '5' for HDMI 1, for '6' for HDMI 2 and then switch to Antenna mode and basically show static. I switched back to the EA-1 and everything works fine. Anyone ever encounter something like this? Russell

GMTA = Great Minds Think Alike

Hi, It would just allow selecting of a device and an HDMI input and audio. Similar to the Nintendo Wii driver. Control would be through whatever controllers are hooked up to the RaspberryPi (wireless in my instance). Let me know. Russ

Thanks. Well with part-time work I've learned Python and LUA. I have a driver that can read the thermostats, get the values, poll for changes. Need to add saving the values back, then prettying it up and then testing. Does Control4 purchase third-party drivers to include in their offering?

Hi all, I have a Lennox iComfort Wifi in my Master Bedroom. There's a HouseLogix driver for it but I wanted to take this opportunity to see if I can write a complicated driver. Is there a 'competitive' market for drivers in the Control 4 world? I don't want to step on any toes. Russell.

Please PM me.

Hi, Make me an offer. Russell B.