RussellB

I have the Orbi system with the main controller hardwired into the main hub and have had no issues either with the phone client or the wifi touchscreens throughout the house. I have three satellites that give me full coverage of the house.

Hi all, My main staircase has three switches to control it from three locations, so I need: 2 Keypads 1 Dimmer What makes it complicated is I need one almond, one white, and one black. Any combination of those three with 1 dimmer and 2 keypads will work. Russ

Got it working! I'll take a couple of photos.

Somewhat off-topic, I'm about to install an HPC10A heavy duty power controller to replace the timer on the front landscape lights. We lose power occasionally and I hate them not syncing up. At least with Control4 I can sink the porch and garage lights now with the ladscape lights so it's looks better.

Yeah. I've always been one of those who has to be on the latest whatever... I remember upgrading CD players from 1x, 2x, 4x, 8x, etc. LOL

I get your point. Like I have an iPad 2 that i only use as a Control4 tablet because the iOS stopped updating at 9.3.5 I believe. I type corrected.

That's kind of different isn't it? Old phones can still be used. If I want to run < OS3 I'd keep the HC250's I have around, but if not... S.S. Minnow?

So what do you do with Control4 hardware that is no longer supported? Buy a boat and use them as an anchor?

I agree. It makes it more foolproof. I use an Amazonf Fire TV with a VideoStorm IRUSB to control it with no lag. I wrote additional mini drivers for it so anyone can bring up the OSD, select watch and click the Netflix button to go right to it. Visually it is very cool. My Watxh menu has 30 icons which include 25 channels then the rest of the viewing equipment

I also have an old iPad 2 using the Control4 app in Kiosk mode AND an SR-250 which most people use in that room. I also have an Alexa in the room and I've programmed things like "Alexa, turn on Theater Netflix".

The OSD comes up in the main theater... and I really like it!

The original owner of the house never setup the OSD... but I like it. But I'm willing to let it go to set the house up with OS3. Is OS3 worth it? How much support will Control4 give to 2.10.X? I remember the old old days of Windows when an upgrade would require you to upgrade your hardware. With Windows XP I had four screens running off my PC but Vista required the display cards to be of the same chipset and made me update my display adapters.... hated that.

I probably really don't need the on-screen... I just like having it.

They are only controlling devices around watching tv/fire tv/roku/wii in each room. that's all. They also provide the on-screen navigator.

Hi all, I have an HC800 as the main controller, two HC250s, two T2 touchpads and an Infinity touchpad. The HC800 controls the house while the HC250s control the Master Bedroom and Living Room/Dining Room. What is the comparable hardware to upgrade to so I can move to OS3? I know for the touchpads it would be the T3 versions. aTdHvAaNnKcSe <-- thanks in advance Russell

They are dimmable. It's definitely due to the wiring. I was able to fix the issue by adding a programmable timer in 'always on' mode inline with the rope and now they work as expected.

Please PM me if you have any available. I'm in the Northeast US.

Hi all, A string of rope lights failed in my theater so I replaced the rope with the new one. Now, when I turn them off at the dimmer they dim but don't go all the way out. The switch is an LDZ-102. When I pull the tab on the front the lights do go out, but when I put it back in they give off a low glow. The reason I replaced them in the first place was because I believe they were incandescent bulbs. I replaced with LEDs so that explains what's going on. I have to check the wiring. Russ

Is there a Control4 device that goes inline between a power source and load device that isn't a 'switch'?

this seems like the best option.

I'd prefer to install it inside in the equipment room

How does a ring transformer work? Are you willing to sell one to me?

Hi all, I have this controlling the outdoor landscape lights: Since it doesn't adjust for seasons for daylight savings I'm looking for a Control 4 solution. Can anyone recommend what I could swap it out for? aTdHvAaNnKcSe <-- thanks in advance Russ

I JUST figured out the driver.lua was doing that and got them to work! I copied the driver.lua from the custom channel and everything's right as the mail. Time to crank out drivers!

More testing creating mini-apps. For some reason the driver isn't picking up the APP ID QLAUNCH command. I created three mini-apps, A&E, History and HGTV. I tested the QLAUNCH commands for each by assigning them to remote buttons before saving them in the driver. All worked. Only HGTV works. Here is the LUA output for HGTV and A&E HGTV Proxy id 1100 Attached source id: 1158 named HGTV Source app is QLAUNCH android-app://tv.accedo.hgtv#Intent;component=tv.accedo.hgtv/com.snidigital.androidtv.ui.splash.SplashActivity;end\r App launching QLAUNCH android-app://tv.accedo.hgtv#Intent;component=tv.accedo.hgtv/com.snidigital.androidtv.ui.splash.SplashActivity;end\r Send RS232 command (QLAUNCH android-app://tv.accedo.hgtv#Intent;component=tv.accedo.hgtv/com.snidigital.androidtv.ui.splash.SplashActivity;end\r A&E Source app is com.aetn.aetv.watch App to launch is com.aetn.aetv.watch Room 912:Fire TV Applications is selecting 0 Proxy id 1100 Attached source id: 1162 named A&E Looks like for some reason it's treating them differently. amazonfire_irusb_ae.c4z amazonfire_irusb_hgtv.c4z amazonfire_irusb_history.c4z