BubbaDuck

Nest E was my fall back.

I thought these were the drivers?

I have an install where we need a thermostat in a detached garage. All the thermostat does is run a heater to keep the pipes from freezing that feed the studio mini-apartment above the garage. So the use case is super basic and a C4 Thermostat or Nest seem like super over kill. The best I’ve found so far that I think will work is this refurb Honeywell. I’m wondering if there are other cheap options I haven’t come across.

Ahhhhh! Intellitouch vs Intellicenter! I missed that nuance. Ok, this is very helpful. Thank you.

This is in reference to serial control? And then should I infer IP control doesn’t have these issues? It appears then an i8 is the level at which IP control is included? Thanks!

I am working on a pool controller integration. Sadly, the pool guy I am partnering with doesn't know the tech at all. Currently there is an i5+3S controller and it appears there is a serial connector. I have read a few threads and it appears one doesn't get "good" full bore awesome control in C4 until the unit is at least an i7. Is that true? What limitations does the serial control have compared to newer IP control? How much of this do I have sideways and what do I need to know? Needless to say, the Pentair site isn't terribly useful. Links to photos

Right, ok. Just dotting Is as it seems there is always a way to get screwed while near an Apple device.

Will this driver allow use of Apple Music through AppleTV?

If any one comes across the same issue - deleting and recreating the scene fixed it.

Has anyone noticed Media Scenes no longer tracking properly? I have a Media Scene that is used to keep two separate zones on separate amps and matrix inputs synchronized. This has worked for a long while. Now, when I deactivate and then reactivate "Scene Always active" all of the settings on the downstream components react accordingly. However, once I adjust the "master" that the secondary zone should follow, it no longer follows. The best I can figure is that this is somehow broken in 3.2. Anyone else seeing this behavior?

It’s working perfectly now. I was making it harder than it needed to be. It’s a simple master driver with a single driver for each physical device. The way the docs were written had me thinking too hard. I got confused on what they meant by “room”. There’s the concept of “rooms” in Sonos too.

Ok I think this is the hint I needed. The documentation confused me. It didn't click what they meant by "each Sonos room". They mean it logically in the Sonos app - NOT in Composer.

I have to be missing something basic. I have a Sonos Connect into a Anthem MDX16 digital input. All I want to do it trigger a playlist from a keypad button. If I have the matrix playing another source (Pandora from an EA3 for instance) and use the "Select Playlist" action, the input on the matrix doesn't change nor does the C4 app show the playlist trying to play. It stays on Pandora in this example. If the "tear down the stream" timeout has expired for Pandora and all audio sessions are shutdown in the room, choosing Sonos and the playlist from the C4 mobile app works as expected. What am I missing here? I have the Sonos driver installed in every room that is attached to the matrix. I have tried the driver in the room in question both with no override room value and with the room set as the override room value. I have to imagine I am missing something basic or this driver requires more explicit manual routing than I am realizing. Any ideas?

As do Fibaro and Aeotec.

So with some experimentation this is what I found. A 100k ohm/1 watt resister in parallel dropped the leaking TRIAC voltage from ~65v to ~13v which at least on these lights cleaned up the glow. Amperage dropped from ~16ma to 8ma. So yes, just a tiny little trickle of power is on the output side of the dimmer when off... ~1watt which is a good amount of power to a 4 watt lamp. I know, this isn't a linear thing and 1watt != 1/4 of total light output... but it's enough for that glow. If anyone knows that this is the worst thing to ever do and I'll burn down the house, ears are open.

Yes. It seems folks may not have had to deal with the issue. I’m going to pop a 100k ohm/1watt resistor across the output of the 8DIM channel in question, do some volt/ohm measurements before/after and with/without load and see what I get. There is no reason this should not work - unless there is more capacitance than I realize and we need less resistance in the resistor to draw more wattage. I was simply looking for advice on warranty and code. Seeing this is on the other side of a device and not in line with mains, I don’t believe there is any code issue.

I pulled the part and they are 100% rated for dimming. I have no clue on the transformer. These are Edison medium base bulbs in hardwired fixtures and there is no mention of a transformer. I’d be surprised there is any such thing beyond a basic diode rectifier, a cap, and the LEDs.

They are certainly dimmable as when I dim them.... they dim. The dimmer channel is set to “Auto-Detect” and has chosen Forward Phase.

24 watts (6 lamps at 4w each) on the most loaded channel. They’re oddball T6.5 lamps in library fixtures. So well within the spec of a channel. To be clear, I’m talking about running a resister in parallel on the circuit to create a minuscule (0.14w) load to counteract the tiny bit of capacitance that the LEDs are reacting to.

How have folks eliminated LED flicker with the dimmer modules? Nerd me says toss a 100k ohm/1w resistor on the output of the dimmer channel with the problem, but I’m wary of violating National Electrical Code or warranty. Thoughts?

Ah, that’s perfect! RAV is describing where I was headed and that’s painful.

Help me think through this problem... I can think of bad and onerous ways to do this. The goal is to set a scene for say the week before Memorial Day. Memorial Day is the last Monday of May. Th ebst I have thought of is awful IF statements If May and Monday and Date Between 26 and 31 Then I would have to do similar for each day preceding Memorial Day. Is there a driver or better way to to this that I haven't considered? FWIW, the Chowmain Holiday driver is dead.

Has anyone ever automated alarm keypads on a Concord 4? The goal is to adjust the keypad back lights according to time of day and I am not finding anything anywhere. I know it can be done via the keypad itself. Am I missing something in the driver? Or perhaps I can send a custom serial command somehow?

FWIW, I just saw they posted new drivers a week or so ago. Let me load those up and see what’s new. Maybe daisy chaining intelligence is a thing now?

I have 2 currently. They are extremely user friendly. The one issue I am having (and Anthem is a bit AWOL seemingly with COVID trying to get answers) is how to best integrate the two. There are no docs I can find on the topic. It seems they really expect the units to behave as two separate devices - so using the optical out and RCA passthroughs seems to not be understood by the drivers even though you can setup connections between the units in Composer. So, I may not be doing these anymore for systems that may have expansion in the future if I have to buy a separate matrix to put on top as the whole point is the matrix is in the amp. Maybe Alan Chow is lurking and can tell us how the driver is coded and if it was coded to understand daisy chaining. My other gripe is that there is roughly a 5 second delay to bring up a channel which makes announcements weird. If the use case is a small to mid sized install for music only, it's pretty much perfect.