Andrew luecke

You need a dealer for that, as they'll have to reconfigure your core controller

I wasn't aware that customers were even able to do updates though honestly

There was a second fix on  OS 3.4.1.705920-res ..

I'd just upgrade to 3.4.2, and it's definitely fixed.. If you're having issues after a week, its something else.

All of our drivers come with an unrestricted 90 day trial. It may be best to test on your player and see how you go

G'day all,

Just letting you know that a new build has been released (20240424): https://chowmain.software/drivers/control4-lighting-leaf

This mainly improves the feedback of the lights and includes our new performance code. Full list of changes are:

• [Control] Improve Realtime Feedback channel to resolve a potential issue with communications dropping out, which also affected control (Agent)
• [Bug] Fix Misc Bugs (All)
• [Improvement] Improve compatibility with old Announcement Agent installations (Sensor)
• [Improvement] Improve Variable Handling (All)
• [Troubleshooting] Major Improvements to Diagnostics (All)
• [Misc] Add more defensive code to protect against potential issues (All)
• [Performance] Introduce some MAJOR performance improvements. Some logging tests of 10000x logs demonstrated speed gains from 6600ms to 60ms processing time. This is seperate from some other previous improvements yielding improvements of 680ms to 47ms on a Core series for another type of operation. Some other tests showed speed gains of 22ms (best case) on EA series controllers to less than 1ms average for certain operations.
• [Performance] Reduce HTTP connections required

The biggest change which might affecs a small number of users is that some drivers like the old ping driver and reboot driver are likely broken. This is a good thing because when drivers like ping ran, they blocked every driver on the controller from running for a few seconds (so, power on commands would be delayed, etc)

You'll want to ensure all your drivers are up to date if you run into issues

Possibly network loop if they're all hardwired

1 hour ago, Moshe Katz said:

oof

 RS232 Matrix switches are generally easier. But, if you want to do it properly, its not a quick job depending on the protocol. But either way, you must be a partner or integrator to develop the drivers

1 hour ago, Moshe Katz said:

well... how do i atleast get hex codes and stuff, i dont even know the device type to choose from the first option which is annoying

G'day,

Honestly, it sounds like you may require more prerequisite knowledge required to develop a driver (a lot of background knowledge is required, especially for things like lighting drivers). There is no easy 1-page pdf (especially since you'd definitely want 2-way).

To put things into perspective, before I worked for Chowmain, I spent weeks learning to write a CBUS lighting driver, and it still wasn't completed (and this was with a lot of previous reverse engineering / development background). In fact, when i started working here, we mostly scrapped the majority of the code too (and it turned out, I was further from completion than I thought). And, a lot of small things I would have missed without Alan's insight and mentoring.

All of our lighting drivers we've written recently are thousands of lines of code (Shelly is probably our biggest, and the whole driver is well-over 10000 lines of code, although, not all the code is related to lighting, but a lot of it is)

My recommendation would be to contact the manufacturer, and get them to contact us for a quote honestly https://chowmain.software/for-manufacturers/request-quote . Otherwise, keep in mind, a lighting driver takes months to develop in full sometimes. These days we can finish

G'day before anything, do you have a beam sensor installed?

3 hours ago, jfh said:

My Roku started working again yesterday.  Today broken again.  Any ideas?

It's a global/Roku Firmware issue, and isn't actually an issue on Control4's side. Roku likely haven't deployed/completed the fix yet.

Other platforms are also affected.

Once deployed by Roku, it should start working again and no action should be required by yourself or your installer

Does that still matter though with 802.11k? As i think it provides neighbor reports with received signal strength?

Very little is gained by blocking Control4 honestly, and it's simply more likely to cause issues when troubleshooting

6 hours ago, Time2Jet said:

Has anyone experienced issues with the ALS agent and TP-Link bulbs not turning all of the way off? @Andrew luecke

Any chance you can contact our support? If you're using V1 drivers though, it could be worth upgrading to V2 first

https://chowmain.software/for-integrators/technical-support

I usually took a photo of the kitchen (especially because some of these houses have kitchenettes). And sometimes I would also filter the picture to make it slightly darker or lighter

7 hours ago, msgreenf said:

@Andrew luecke looks like you are not persisting data…

This shouldn't affect anything. We don't update the initial state until it is confirmed actually, so a flood state should only be received if there is a flood.

9 hours ago, BY96 said:

I have noticed that whenever I do a reboot of the Core3 (main controller) in my system, after it  comes back online, Control4 sends random push notifications that I have programmed. For example, I have push notifications for when Shelly water sensors detect water. Any time I reboot, I end up getting several false water detection notifications, sometimes even 2 hours later. I check in the Shelly app, and there has not been any water detected, so again, the notifications are clearly false. And I don't get false notifications otherwise, only after a reboot. 

Any ideas why this is happening? It isn't a big deal, as I can ignore the notifications, but it is strange. 

It could be worth checking the flood sensor firmware is up to date too. I do recall seeing this issue with some old firmware though

Otherwise, can you please lodge a support ticket: https://chowmain.software/for-integrators/technical-support

On the old h&t, it gets updated every 0.5deg change I think for temp, or every 1% humidity change. And, I know in the past Shelly devices also used to check in to the cloud every 12hrs too (so the polling is dynamic)

I'm fairly sure the plus would be similar.

1 minute ago, msgreenf said:

Idk what eink has to do with humidity? 

Shelly H&T plus uses E-Ink for display: https://www.shelly.com/en-au/products/shop/shelly-plus-h-and-t

Might be best to speak to Shelly to see what they suggest for your application, as they have lots of products (and probably even more unreleased ones).

25 minutes ago, ajd123 said:

Can the E-Ink be turned off to further extend battery life?

E-Ink is persistent (so not sure what impact it would have, as E-Ink is highly efficient, and will remain even with no battery. In fact, when I first opened ours, I was trying to peel the screen off because I thought it was a label, before realising).

I don't believe so though, but could be worth messaging the shelly team to confirm. I suspect the impact would be fairly low though anyway

Just now, Shoe said:

@Andrew luecke Does this driver currently take advantage of Shelly webhooks? Or can it support webhooks for Shelly devices by providing endpoint(s) on the controller? I'm looking at the Shelly scripting capability and am exploring options for custom events and simple basic support for low(er) latency responses. I want to buy it and not build it so I am hopeful. I'm working with Plus Uni's.

Gen 1 devices NEEDS to use the webhooks, so they're unavailable, and will get overwritten

Gen 2/3 Devices (like the plus/pro/gen3), I don't believe we touch the webhooks at all, because we use the outbound Websocket channel instead for realtime feedback instead

The latency for the shelly should be low (with Chowmain driver) and not really noticeable in practice unless you have a bad wifi network, overloaded controller or possibly lots of interference on Zigbee.

We always recommend Pro/Plus (Gen 2)  or Gen3 modules if possible if you're purchasing them, as the protocol is more scalable and is far better (we don't need to test every device anymore, and just implement by capability)

Also, we're pushing a new version tomorrow with some enhancements to button links tomorrow (for Gen1 modules) which may affect this case.

In addition, a lot of memory / performance optimisation work has gone into recent releases (which will be mostly noticeable on slower controllers, or certain networks), so we recommend everyone ensures they're using the latest version. Particularly if you have a lot of shelly devices. Also, obviously, there's been a lot of feature improvements recently

All of our drivers have a 90 day trial though. You can use to test with

2 minutes ago, Shoe said:

Do you need white color temp control plus color? That's called RGBCCT. You can do it two ways. RGBCCT strips or RGB strips and CCT strips in parallel. This is desirable in kitchens so you can get bright enough counter light in white and the color temp you want at specific times. Like 4000 during the day and 2700 or 2200 dimmed down at night. Shelly can't do RGBCCT strips because they are a 4 channel controller and you need 5 channels for RGBCCT, but you can run them in parallel.

What's the application?

Technically, chowmain light group can emulate CCT now too.. but you would need to test if its suitable for your use-case (as there are limitations to the emulation, and some limitations with the precision available too)

But I agree, this all depends on the usecase

Honestly, I'd recommend the Shelly RGBW2 over Govee. Whilst it's not wired in, we have a lot of people using it, and in my experience they're fairly reliable (I actually use one at my own place)

Andy

18 minutes ago, mujtaba.khokhar said:

Mac OS and parallels FTW. 
 

sorry not helpful

Worth noting that Google Play Games for windows is already in beta. And TPM in windows 11 is mandatory (so it can be kept secure too). Hence why I wouldn't be surprised if this is in response to Google swooping in, in the future

I'd start by checking to see if the laser is visible through the cable (don't stare at it). And replace HDMI.. Most of the time its the HDMI honestly. Sometimes the HDMI also isn't the full way in the port (or the fiber isn't)

Take a look at Blustream otherwise.. https://www.blustream.com.au/hdmi-over-fibre-fve4k-kit