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Andrew luecke

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Posts posted by Andrew luecke

  1. 1 hour ago, penn65000 said:

    Well then hoping they chose much better WiFi radios than the Neeos which we returned. 

    Not everyone had issues with the NEEO's. I'd actually be interested in seeing how many issues on those were actually chipset related at all to be honest (in many cases I saw, the problems had nothing to do with the NEEO itself).

    You're saying you had issues with the NEEO's, and now you're saying you're having issues with Halo's?

    You also are saying you have a faulty CA10 Ethernet port (and from my understanding, both ports work independently?

    It could be worth checking your network to be honest

  2. 2 minutes ago, jsimon77 said:

    I just looked.  I have doors, windows, motion...only one that is not in those categories that shows up under "unknown" is "keyfob"

    It would be in ELKRP (sorry, on the panel I mean).

    But, I'm not sure if anyone I spoke to actually solved this, and I recall this exact issue was one of the factors why we chose to develop our own driver despite the free one

  3. 2 hours ago, Matt Lowe said:

    also, check out the group light driver from @alanchow. It's awesome and will group switches, RGB, TW, and dimmable lights all as one light and figure out what each light gets and how it is affected.

    we also did a video on programing it and how to use it.

    https://www.patreon.com/posts/chowmain-soft-83798711?utm_medium=clipboard_copy&utm_source=copyLink&utm_campaign=postshare_creator&utm_content=join_link

    Also, not sure if the situation changed, but at least in 3.3.0, if you put colorwheel lights in a dimmer group, it disabled the colorwheel. Chowmain light group was actually needed to be able to continue using the colorwheel.

     

    We also have a updated beta available to installers with full presets support including dim to warm (which generally works even if the target driver doesn't support presets)

  4. So if you have 1 port plugged in, it works, if you swap the port, it works, but 2 plugged in, it doesn't?

    Try turning off RSTP/STP to the CA10 ports. Also, make sure Link Aggregation isn't enabled on those 2 ports too. Then power cycle the switch and CA10

    If you don't have RSTP/STP enabled on your switch, well, I'd be a bit worried (unless there is a very legit reason)

  5. If its running 1.7, that's from 2013, so, there are lots of legitimate reasons honestly to upgrade or change..  All of our updated drivers only support 2.9 minimum, which is from 2017. And 2.10.2 (2018) I recall in our case uses optimised code paths which greatly reduce latency. I'd be surprised if any Dynamic drivers (which rely on code), would operate on such an old controller

    Even cheaper eBay second hand controllers (like the HC800) support OS3.3.0 (which supports the start of the colorwheel drivers), and 3.2.4 (which supports custom mobile interfaces as used by drivers like the Chowmain Scheduler driver, Contact Us, and our history drivers for drivers like  ELK M1 alarm, Bosch Solution 2000/3000, etc). 

    From a maintenance point of view, OS 3.1.2(?) is also required for our drivers to automatically set themselves up too, so from a labor cost perspective, Newer controllers are also cheaper and more efficient to deploy 

    1.7 probably won't support any driver released in the last few years honestly. But I agree, it might possibly be able to perform Embernet upgrades.

  6. G'day all,

    Selling an EA1 V2 here in Melbourne, Australia, for AUD350 (excluding shipping). It still has the original box.

    The reason I'm selling it is because I now own a CORE-5.

    This controller can run the latest OS 3.4.0. Keep in mind, you will require an installer for configuration (no support is provided on my end).

     

    This is a V2 model, NOT the V1. It has never been installed at any customers property (only at my own)

    PXL_20231205_074043549.jpg

  7. 12 minutes ago, Neo1738 said:

    There is an auto button? All this time I had my dealer adding lights and binding them for me. 

    The Version 2 drivers contains an Auto-Setup Outlet Light Devices Action. However, you really want to be running a non HCxxx processor, and OS3.3.3 or OS3.4.0 (which HC series doesn't support). The minimum required is OS 3.3.0, but the enhancements since then were absolutely massive, and there are a lot of very valid reasons to be upgrading from even a HC800 these days if you're still running one  

    Also, not sure if HE lets you move drivers around?

    Version 1 of the driver however doesn't have this action, because the development libraries didn't really exist at the time to do it nicely (and you needed a separate outlet light driver too).

  8. 11 hours ago, Control4Savant said:

    Spoken like a true AV guy. This is why our industry sucks at networking. 

    I'd have to disagree. You'll find a lot of AV installers are actually better at networking than you believe, in particular for practical things which affect AV. Also, VLAN's aren't really considered advanced honestly (my coworker was trained within 10mins), unless you go completely overboard with policies. Snap even provides a 10 page guide (with a large font) on Araknis. You'll note that even their guide basically recommends KISS under their best practices (ie, do things with the least number of VLAN's you can)..

    The trick is network design, which is part of why Access Networks was likely purchased by Snap, because they can facilitate that, and provide fast support for questions like the one asked by OP.

    9 hours ago, Control4Savant said:

    Fair…as the admin on here im grouping you with the rest of us pros. 

    Can you please answer NetworkGuru's question in more detail then...

  9. 3 hours ago, Control4Savant said:

    Uh. No, thats not the same. You need to learn more about firewall/routing rules. 

    What he's trying to say is I think is that there is practical security, and theoretical. We all know about routing and firewalls..

    When installers go overboard with vlans, control4 or us often gets a call saying something isn't working over the vlan, or have stopped working. Sometimes the first troubleshooting step is "get rid of the vlan".

    Or sometimes, serious adjustments are needed which just removes a lot of the security anyway, or devices just get stuck "temporarily" in the wrong vlan.

    In this case, I'm still a bit weary that lan is split from wifi, and not sure why. And still would appreciate a explanation of why this is practical in a residential environment

    The question here is "how do I make control4 work between vlans" and already demonstrates that the system has likely been overcomplicated already. Hence why the initial question (where I meant 5 vlans actually, not 2), are you a large business?

  10. 2 hours ago, Andrew Cruz said:

    Many issues with system falling offline and coming right back online.  

    We have a beta which has so far fixed this for mostly everyone. Your dealer needs to submit a ticket.

    Also, if you're using the cbus m1 module, keep in mind it seems to be an issue with the module itself. Old firmware also causes issues (particularly m1xep v1.x firmware)

  11. 4 hours ago, Control4Savant said:

    That statement is no different than having a control system. 

    Only if you overcomplicate the control system too... Particularly the moment you throw a receiver and/or projector in the mix, any good system will make it easier.

     In this case, not sure what the usecase would be to split up WLAN and lan as an example imho.

    Furthermore, that diagram impies that smarthome also has its own wifi ssid too? What happens if they add a new wireless device they want accessible in both smarthome and the standard wifi? What happens if the customer wants to swap installer? Some devices which utilise UDP also wont work particularly well over vlan too

    Residential has different requirements to enterprise networks. Which is why I'm asking specifically if it's business

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