ajd123

That’s a good question lol. Was really trying to see if there was another option to control the projector via Control4 other than IR blaster. You provided me with some good solutions. Thank you!

Is there any benefit to using serial control over IR blaster? Does the serial allow for two-way communication so Control4 will know whether or not the projector is on or off?

Since this projector does not have an RJ45 port or internet connectivity, think IP is not an option. Any other ports I can use on the EA5 to connect it? Serial connector on the projector side and ??? on the EA5 side?

Would I use the NNZ9 driver in conjunction with a serial connection using the RS232 port? Does the 12v trigger do anything for me? I am currently using both serial ports (port 1 and port 2) on my EA5 for my Somfy URTSI's.

I have a JVC LXNZ3B that is controlled via IR blaster. The blaster is not reliable because it is not aware of the projectors current power state. Does anyone know if it is possible to have IP control for this device?

Thanks. I turned off the setting for HDMI/ARC on all devices. Lets see if it does the trick. I checked the driver for the AVR and the correct one is installed. I noticed on my Sony AVR a setting for HDMI control (CEC). Should this also be turned off?

I am not sure the driver being used. How can I check?

Thanks for the suggestion. Just went into the settings and it will not let me turn off HDMI pass through (see attached picture). Any suggestions?

Hey Jeff, sorry for the slow reply was out of town. 1) Speakers are a combination of in ceiling for rear speakers, freestanding subwoofer, bookshelf speakers for front right / left and the TV's internal speaker for center channel. The 5.1 setup is connected to the stereo receiver directly. The stereo receiver is also connected to the audio matrix via 2) No HDMI matrix. 3) Yes I have an audio matrix connected to the AVR. 4) I do have "two rooms" setup for the family room. 1) Family Room: which runs the audio through the matrix. This is used for all sources such as cable boxes, apple tv's and even for the TV's internal apps. 2) Family Room TV: which uses the TV's internal audio. I never use the "Family Room TV" room, and think I am going to delete this room.

In my family room we have a Denon stereo receiver, Sony TV and Rogers (xFinity) box. When the TV is turned off (via the "off button" on the T260 remote, or if the entire room is turned off) everything turns off, but the Audio for the source being watched continues to come out of the stereo speakers.. What might be causing this? Any suggestions on Control4 programming to look at or specific settings with the stereo and/or HDMI ARC settings for the TV or Receiver?

Just wanted to post a follow up on this. We had a cold snap here in Ontario so I shut off the AC. The furnace remains on in fan mode only since we like to have the air running through the HEPA filter 24/7. In this mode there is no heating (furnace burners are off) or cooling (air conditioner is off). Last night the indoor temp in the house was 22.5 degrees Celsius and the outside temp was 2 degree Celsius. In a 9 hour span of time (9pm-6pm) the temperature in the house only dropped 1.5 degrees Celsius (down to 21). In a well built house with a tight building envelope heat loss or gain (especially at night) is minimal. During the day, the house heats up quicker (heat gain) than it cools off (heat loss) which is primarily the result of solar radiation, exposure and number of windows.

I wanted to use the backlight for visual notifications (create a nice glow in the center of the switch). Guess this is why it was not visible/working when I tried it. Thanks for the response guys.

Will the backlight LED for light switches be visible with the stock paddles that come with the switch? OR, is it only visible with paddles/rockers that have custom engravings in the middle?

These are zones in my DSC system that do not have a name. They are in there, but since they are not named I am assume they don't do anything?

Thanks Mitch. So many places to look. Did not realize the room itself had the option there.

There is no "pulse skip forward" command for Spotify from what I can see

I figured out what the two "unknown" zones are. There are two zones in my system that are not named and are not connected to any contact/motion/smoke etc. Anyone have any ideas why these would be in my DSC security system? Should I remove them or just leave them?

Do you mean select the room on the right side of composer under "ACTIONS"? For tidal, what is the room command called that you use? Thanks

I want to create programming utilizes the dimmer switches backlights to provide visual feedback. I can get the programming to work for the dimmers top/bottom LED (see attached "LED Indicators.jpg"). My programming to enable/disable the backlight for the dimmer switch is not working (see attached "Backlight Color.jpg"). Can someone tell me what I am doing wrong?

Is there a way to program a button to skip a track forward or backward in a Spotify playlist? For example, on a keypad dimmer the up and down arrows at the bottom...

Got it. What about the two other zones without names listed under UNKOWN. Any suggestions how I can figure out what these are?

Thanks Cyknight, this is exactly what I was looking for. You are a DSC guru. Next question. After registering this PowerG wireless contact, Control4 seems to have integrated it automatically. The zone is visible but is not associated with a specific room, it is listed under "UNKOWN". 1) How to I program it into Control4 so it shows up in the desired room using Composer HE? 2) I also have two other unnamed zones showing up in the UNKNOWN section. Any idea how to isolate or determine what those are?

Do they make sub panels for DSC alarm systems and/or Control4 equipment?

That is a given. Even a 2'' conduit can fill up pretty quickly. Trying to reduce the amount of wire and runs if possible. For example, sometimes we put a pony electrical panel on the 2nd floor of a house. All the circuits for that floor are just run to the panel. Then 1 wire is run from the pony panel to the main panel.

I always work with Cat6 not fiber. I have some fiber runs in my house, but they are just for future proofing. I like your suggestions for a network switch. Sounds like I will need to install a half rack in the pool house. I have a 16 Camera NVR. Perhaps it might be smarter to just install a 2nd NVR in the pool house and put all new runs to that machine. Thoughts?