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livitup

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livitup last won the day on November 26 2017

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About livitup

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    Control4 End User
  1. Everything was working perfectly, until I went and messed with it. EA-5 on 2.10.1 and a Triad 24x24 Matrix. It seems that whenever the controller picks Digital Output 2 as the path for a streaming service (I use iHeart, TuneIn and SiriusXM) it doesn't work. Streaming services work on other outputs, and other sources work on Digital Output 2. Here's my test workflow: Start streaming from XM. In Composer HE, I pick the EA-5, go to properties, and I change the Output Controls to SPDIF Audio Out 2, and hit "test tone". I hear the beep through my room's speakers. Turn off the beep. (This part of the test indicates that the physical path between SPDIF2 and the speakers is working... i.e. the matrix switched properly, the amp is on, the wiring is good, etc.) In a navigator, I select a different room, and start streaming from TuneIn. Sound works perfectly. (So streaming in general works. This room can't use SPDIF 2, since the first room still has it.) Go back to the first room and change the source to be AirPlay. Send something from my phone, and it plays in the room. Confirm we are still using SPDIF Audio Out 2 with another "test tone" and sure enough, we are. What I've tried: Rebooting the controller, rebooting the matrix (before I pinpointed the problem), logging out and back in to the streaming services. Any ideas? Can't call the dealer until Tuesday - hoping one of you wizards have an idea before then! I was doing some work on my network today, but I've verified that everything came back up with the same IP addresses and such. I only mention it because I noticed these problems after the network work was finished. I don't think it's related because the EA-5 can talk to the matrix and the internet, but I mention it for completeness.
  2. Intermission for Kaleidescape

    Necro-bumping this post because I'm looking for the answer on how to do this in Composer HE. Here's what I want: If the theater is watching Kaleidescape, when I hit pause, trigger K's intermission mode. If the theater is watching anything other than Kaleidescape, then pause should do whatever pause normally does (DVR pause, BluRay Pause, etc.) If I use the "commands -> pause" event on the room, then that will take over every watch and listen source and I'll have to do a gnarly list of IF statements to check the source, and then send the right button. I could use a custom button, but I'll never remember to hit it instead of pause. And now that I'm digging into this, I don't see any way to toggle intermission mode. I can trigger programming based on entering Intermission mode, but how do I toggle intermission mode? Do I need to learn the IR code? I have both the C4 Native and Alan's driver installed.
  3. Removing Control4

    Your choices are: 1 Sonos Connect and a 16 channel (8 zone) amplifier (you can probably reuse the C4 one). All zones play the same music at the same volume at the same time (no individual zone control at all) 8 Sonos Connect Amps. You get individual zone control, but this solution will cost you about $4000 (shelf price). A different Whole Home Audio solution, such as Nuvo. Honestly, if Whole Home Audio is the only thing you're after, Control4 is way overkill. The C4 value proposition is in the integration and automation of many disparate home systems (audio, video, lighting, security, sprinklers, climate, shades/blinds, etc.). If you no longer have any interest in that value proposition then one of the three solutions above should work for you.
  4. Smart Plug Switch suggestions

    Yes, and have been discussing that with a dealer. Great product, but overkill for my particular needs. I could see them being "nice to have" for about 3 of my 10 dimmers, but "total overkill" for the other 7. If there was a lower cost, lower featured, uglier, but cheaper outlet dimmer that did C4 ZigBee without a hub, I'd be all over it.
  5. I have a two-button wireless keypad (C4-KP2-Z) that I have programmed to toggle two advanced lighting scenes. The top button toggles the "Kitchen" scene, and the bottom button toggles the "Hall" scene. This works as desired. I am trying to add to the programming, so that when the scene is active, the respective keypad LED is green, and inactive it's blue. So if the kitchen is on the top LED should be green. If both scenes are on, both lights should be green, and if both off, both should be blue. I added programming to the "scene on" and "scene off" events to the Advanced Lighting Scenes objects to change the LED color for the keypad. It kinda works, but seems like the green lights are getting "overwritten" by default blues. For example, if I start with both lights off, then turn on the kitchen, the top led turns green. If I then turn on the hall, the bottom LED turns green, but the top one turns blue. There's other weird behavior too like that. I'm sure I'm missing something simple and stupid. Help?
  6. Smart Plug Switch suggestions

    My experience has been that they'll dim, but the "leakage current" is still going through them, so they never really turn all the way off. Thankfully they still make "high efficiency" non-LED bulbs that work. For the < 10 lamps in my house that I'm trying to automate, I'll eat the electricity difference.
  7. Smart Plug Switch suggestions

    Or Lutron/Insteon... but really want to avoid the C4 -> bridge -> device conga line. Been down that road before and get bitten when the bridge or device manufactures change things and break compatibility with C4. eBay shopping for C4 outlet dimmers is looking good right about now.
  8. Smart Plug Switch suggestions

    Is there a dimmable WeMo outlet with C4 drivers available (free or paid) that would be a good replacement for the C4 wireless outlet dimmer? My quick perusal of Belkin's site shows dimmer switches, and switched outlets, but no dimmable outlets. I have lamps I want to be able to dim, and the cords/outlets are all hidden so I don't care what the solution looks like, as long as it works reliably. Looking for anything cheaper than the Axxess lamp dimmer.
  9. We have explored this route too... Despite being an all-Apple household, we had a older Android-based tablet that we decided to re-purpose for a dedicated C4 screen. So far it has worked perfectly. However, there aren't a lot of wall-mounts available for 8-year-old Samsung tablets so we have it on a basically home-made table stand in our kitchen. It's permanently plugged in, screensaver disabled, and the box in the C4 App's preferences is ticked so that it's always connected. Flawless, but not the prettiest of solutions. I re-purposed my son's old, heavy, non-mini iPad for use as a touchscreen in my theater. Still waiting on the build to be finished in that room, so results are not conclusive, but so far seems to work well. The C4 app is not, in my experience, especially resource intensive... the Mini 1 should be just fine running it. For wall mounting iPad, the solutions from iPort are the gold standard: https://iportproducts.com . However, be prepared to pay for them in gold bricks. (Pricing available on their website.) I found that by the time I get an iPad, even a used one from eBay, and a decent mount, I'm approaching used touchscreen prices anyway. If you already have the iPad, it changes the calculus somewhat, but still...
  10. WTB: Axxess Lamp Dimmers

    Didn't even know this product existed. I could use 5 of these. Is the price better than the C4 outlet dimmer? If whomever sold Christopher his dimmers wants to ping me with pricing info, I'd love to work these into my budget. Thanks!
  11. Router for my control4 automation

    Depends on if you want to have the integrator be responsible for the network, or if you want to be responsible. If the integrator is responsible, then any network problems are their problem, not yours. IP address changed, they have to fix it. TV keeps dropping off WiFi? They have to fix it. You get to be the demanding customer who says "make it work," and they have to do it. But, you have to use equipment that they support. So find out if they will support what you want. If not, you can go ahead and install whatever you want, but then they won't have any responsibility for the network. When they can't connect one of the components, it's your problem to fix. And they get to tell you "make it work" and play on their phones while you fix the network so they can continue their job. I've never used Luxul so I can't comment on the quality vs Ubiquiti or anyone else... my point is only to be aware of what you are getting into. Automation systems like C4 absolutely require a strong, reliable network, which is why the integrators are keen to own the network components too.
  12. 9.2 receiver

    Very valid point... So, TOSLINK is the cable, S/PDIF is the protocol carried on the cable. S/PDIF supports setting the volume, but it's up to the TV if it supports changing the volume on the S/PDIF output. Many don't, because the most common use of TOSLINK and S/PDIF is to hook up to a soundbar or AVR. Not sure of a good way to test if your particular TV does or not, other than Internet research, checking forums, looking through the menus, etc. If it doesn't then the next best solution would be a soundbar or a preamp with a remote control (whose codes you could program into C4 if necessary), but these solutions all start to approach cheap AVR territory.
  13. 9.2 receiver

    i.e. this 2 channel amp is about 5% the cost of the Integra: https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Source-AMP100VS-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00ZSEFU94/ref=pd_ybh_a_6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WV1Y5P693NMFBQZ594T7 If you have a TV with enough inputs to handle all the sources, and the TV also has an audio output jack (most do these days), then that amp is all you would need to have two speakers in the room with the TV. If the TV only has optical audio output (often the case) then you would also need one of these: https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1517004930&sr=1-3&keywords=spdif+to+analog+converter for a whopping additional $12. C4 can still control the TV, selecting sources and such, and the audio selection will naturally follow, and always be piped out to the local amp and speakers. This solution works great if you have a TV stand or cabinet or something (with the local source boxes - cable/dvd/etc.) that you can put the amp in/on and just a single pair of speakers in the room dedicated to the TV.
  14. 9.2 receiver

    Sorry, I should have been more specific. I've used AppleTV to watch 4k/UHD movies from iTunes, which are also advertised as having Atmos (which I can't yet take advantage of). I don't use ATVs for Netflix, so I don't know if Netflix will push Atmos to an AppleTV. I know that Netflix in general supports Atmos, but I haven't ever paid attention to what streaming devices will work with it. I believe Vudu also does Atmos, but again not sure if it's tied to UHD titles or if they have some HDX with Atmos.
  15. 9.2 receiver

    I would select medium-grade speakers at a minimum for your Atmos speakers. They do not need to go low frequency, as F0ZZ says, so in ceiling speakers work really well if your room will support them. However the sound effects coming from them tend to be - for lack of a better term - very "distinct". Think rain drops falling, helicopter blades whirling, etc. So you want something responsive enough to handle rapid cone velocity changes. All that said, bargain basement Atmos speakers are probably better than no Atmos speakers, so buy what you can afford. I'd target somewhere around the price/quality of your right and left surrounds. ETA: Netflix supports Atmos, but I'm not sure what tier of subscription you need to get it, and not all streamers will pass the Atmos stream to the AVR. My AppleTV 4k supports it as well, though I've not checked to see if there are non-4k titles with Atmos, or if it's limited to 4k/UHD titles.
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