brucecampbell Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 I'm looking at using the relay on the HC800 to control a solenoid valve. This will use 24v power supply. Do I need to put any fuse/circuit breaker between the power supply and the COM to ensure the HC800 has protection? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badjesus Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 I'm looking at using the relay on the HC800 to control a solenoid valve.This will use 24v power supply.Do I need to put any fuse/circuit breaker between the power supply and the COM to ensure the HC800 has protection? I had asked this question before and was told no... not for 24v.This is not my area of expertise though so hopefully someone else chimes in... just incase no one else answered I wanted to mention this.I also run 24v through my HC800 and 2 of my HC300's without issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyknight Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 ALL controllers relays (current and older) are officially rated for up to 36V AC, 24V DC up to 2 amps.Those specs are quite generous in their safety range.A fuse is certainly not a requirement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brucecampbell Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 Great, thanks for the advice guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brucecampbell Posted February 12, 2015 Author Share Posted February 12, 2015 Is there any reason I should NOT use this low voltage cable for my solenoid valves?http://www.cablesdirect.co.nz/www/pdfs/cs4cx.pdf The cable I have used for my sprinkler zones is 0.5mm2, this one is 0.44mm2. The valve will be 30mtrs from the controller. I'm guessing I can simply try it and see what happens - am I correct to assume I wont damage the valve or HC800 when playing with 24V AC through the COM and NO? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyknight Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 It should be fine - the only thing liable to happen is too big a drop in voltage for the solenoid to close. Won't hurt anything. And no - I'm running 26VAC, 24VAC, 24VDC and 12VDC through numerous controller relays every single day for years on end in my own home. Not a single failure of any kind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanE Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 I also run 24V through Control4 relays turning on / off zone valves for my radiant floor install. Note: they're not solenoid valves, though, they're 3/4" Taco Z075C2-1 'Zone Sentry' valves. No issues whatsoever. I did slave some 'ice cube' relays for the circulator pumps, since they're 120V, and I didn't want to mix low-voltage wiring and high voltage wiring into the controller, although I suspect the controller's relay could've handled the voltage / amperage just fine. RyanE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyknight Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 I did slave some 'ice cube' relays for the circulator pumps, since they're 120V, and I didn't want to mix low-voltage wiring and high voltage wiring into the controller, although I suspect the controller's relay could've handled the voltage / amperage just fine. RyanE Ehhh - I came across a controller doing 120v direct for a screen once - it supposedly worked for a few months but melted the unit eventually - wouldn't recommend it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brucecampbell Posted February 18, 2015 Author Share Posted February 18, 2015 My original plan to use a solenoid valve to turn on and off a water pump is not going to work because the swimming pool pump does not have the auto start ability required. So I now need to either use a relay to turn on/off a 230v pump. Or;Use a c4 outlet or puck. What is the best solution given they will be housed outside sheltered in a small ply wood box?Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brucecampbell Posted February 18, 2015 Author Share Posted February 18, 2015 Oh, I see the wireless outlet switch is only rated to 1/4 HP for a motor. My pump will be between 0.5 to 1HP 350W to 700W. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanE Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 I'd go with a heavy-duty relay, like the 'ice cube' ones I used. Buy a base for it, put the base in the box, it turns out nice. If the relay blows, you go buy another one, yank it from the base, put the new one in. Clean install. RyanE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brucecampbell Posted February 18, 2015 Author Share Posted February 18, 2015 Ok, so do these relays use 24 V to energize the coil, and switch 230V? Or am I on the wrong track here - I'm assuming you control the relay via the C4 HC800? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyknight Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 There's lots of cube ones out there - if you can find a 12vdc coil rating you can steal a sensor's 12v to energize - otherwise you need an external powersupply, but yes you have the idea: examples: http://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Relays_-z-_Timers/Electro-Mechanical_Relays/Octal_Relays,_Plug-In,_12A_-_16A_%28750_-z-_H750_-z-_755_Series%29 There's 12vDC coil input ones there that can do 12A of 240VAC: http://www.automationdirect.com/static/specs/75relays.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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