brucecampbell

On 11/7/2020 at 6:48 AM, Cyknight said:

If there is a strong mesh available, I would agree. BUT - if there is no lighting etc in the house, and all depends on direct to controller connection, the lower output can cause issues.

To be clear, in a full-on setup where all the lights are on a system, we normally go to 25, but when there is a limited mesh, or no added devices, we've had more success with channel 20 (as pointed out above, it's in between two of the three 'default' WiFi channels with limited overlap).

 

Thanks for all the input.

I'm trying channel 25 now to see if I get an improved response.
My Wifi is currently set to channel 11.

On 11/4/2020 at 11:49 AM, chopedogg88 said:

sounds like a poor zigbee signal, or could be a failing remote.  how strong is your zigbee mesh?  you could try changing the zigbee channel.

Channel is currently 24.

What do you suggest changing it to?
I have two HC800, both in the same rack in the garage.
'Home Controller HC800' is the Zigbee server/Coordinator
'Slave Controller HC800' is ZAP
Only 36 devices on the zigbee network, the routine mesh shows they are split between both controllers.
Signal strength shows full bars for all devices except the three furtherest away - which show 2 of the 4 bars

I'm using an SR-250 in my living room.
usually once or twice per week, sometimes more often, the remote won't respond. - What could be causing this?

how it happens:
I click 'Watch'
I select a source and everything works correctly.
I will then pick up the remote to do something - the remote lights up as it should.
I click a button but nothing happens.
If I click 'Watch' or 'Listen', the screen tries to load, but usually after a few seconds, the options page shows instead of the watch list.
If I click 'pause' nothing happens.
Often this happens while in the middle ffwd or rew, which is really frustrating...

Is this a sign the remote is failing?
Or zigbee is failing?

Any thoughts on what I can check or test?

Cheers.

You can avoid using the room name in the command once everything is set up correctly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

On 10/3/2020 at 8:09 PM, Benoît van Osch said:

Same here, thanks a lot for the explanation, I have been changing names in the Alexa app as well so if you can confirm there is nothing to be edited on the Alexa side of things and just within the C4 webpage then I will try again. Also at what point in this process are you doing the discover devices in Alexa? Is this once at the beginning, or multiple times in this process?

I don't actually recall my exact process, But I am guessing I just asked Alexa to discover new devices some time after completing task 3 - the edits on the C4 website.

On 10/1/2020 at 6:32 AM, Benoît van Osch said:

That's interesting as I have been using the room groups within Alexa as well but many times Alexa would ask me things like 'I have multiple devices with TV, which one do you like?'. I therefore didn't think it worked well but happy to know if you have any suggestions.  

I have not played around with this much - it just worked first time.
I think I saw a post here about using groups from @msgreenf a while back.

1. Create a group in the Alexa App.
     ie: 'Lounge' or 'Patio' ....
2. Add devices to the Group which belong in that room.
     Be sure to include the Alexa echo/dot in the Group too
3. Edit the voice control options for C4 devices on the control4 my-home website.
     ie: use the 'edit' option next to the device name to change 'Lounge Netflix' to 'Netflix'
     Be sure to click the 'Save Changes' at the top of the page when done.

 

10 hours ago, Benoît van Osch said:

Just noticed they have now taken the driver from their website so its great that they aren't putting other people in the same situation to try and get this working. I also hope they will fix the multi-echo account functionality as this is a truly great feature that really adds value compared to the native control4 voice scene driver.

Does anyone know if there are any alternatives to this driver? I wouldn't expect for Amazon but perhaps for Google...?   

I've been using the C4 option for Alexa a while now and using the Alexa Groups option helps a lot.
You no longer have to say the room as part of the command.

"Alexa turn the lights off" or "Alexa turn on Netflix" just works in the room I am in.

I just heard from Ari, they are hoping for a fix for V3.1.3 at the end of the week.

Fingers crossed!

5 hours ago, Benoît van Osch said:

Just had a response from Epic that the current version has issues with 3.1.3.

I've been trying to get the new driver working for the last three months, nothing is discovered and no response from epic from three emails to support and two messages on here.

Still waiting for help...

On 7/29/2020 at 2:54 AM, lippavisual said:

Add a contact to the chime and wire it directly back to the controller.  When the door button closes the relay at the chime, the chime then energizes the coils, which in turn closes the door contact.  Add programming for when chime contact closes and off to the races.

Is there a particular reason for adding in a contact?
Would it be possible to simply piggyback on the output to the chime by running wires to the SIG and GND given voltage is already supplied externally?

Cheers.

 

8 hours ago, mstafford388 said:

check the LED toggle settings of the dimmer you're binding to.  That is what connecting a keypad button would follow, and this very well may be different than your top LED for that dimmer. 

Hi, there is no LED toggle setting, as this is the old LDZ102 dimmer, just the Top and Bottom colour options.

I find it weird that the programming works perfectly for two of the three buttons on this keypad. (the other two are also the LDZ dimmers)

If I set the dimmer top led on colour = red using programming prior to turning on the dimmer, the keypad seems to follow and shines red.
likewise with the colour being blue.

However, using my programming as is, the keypad led is always blue, even if the dimmer led is red.

1 hour ago, JSTRONG said:

I would start by checking out how you configured the load led it’s connected to 

The dimmer which this keypad button is attached to is an older LDZ102 model with 'buttons attached' and 'leds attached'.

The dimmer has it's top led on colour = red set via programming when a particular advanced light scene is invoked.
And top led on colour = blue set via programming when the same light scene becomes inactive.

Am I correct in assuming that with the voice control options on the C4 website now, I don't need to use the alexa app/website to 'Discover' my devices.

So unless I want to use Alexa groupings or change devices from switches to lights in the Alexa app, I should not need to use the Alexa app at all?

Plus 1 for what Rea mentioned.

It does not matter if you already have scenes for some of the light circuits, a whole house off scene is a completely independent scene which is really useful for all kinds of programming and visuals.

I have loads of scenes which include almost identical settings.
House Off (all lights off)
Good Night (all lights off except master bedroom/ensuite)
Leaving (all lights off except entrance and driveway lights)

I have a configurable keypad in my hallway.
Buttons 2, 3 and 4 are each linked via connections to dimmers in three other locations.
LED behavior is set to 'Follow Connection'

The LEDs for buttons 3 and 4 light up the same colour as the top led on the dimmer they are connected to. - good!
The LED for button 2 does not. - bad! - why?

The dimmers have their top led coloured red when on a timer and blue otherwise.
For some reason button 2 is not following the colour change of its connected dimmer.

Any thoughts on what is going wrong here?

Thanks.

hmm, good question - I don't know the answer, however I wonder if you would need to use something like an experience button.

This would allow a button click and can provide on screen feed back.
I've not used experience buttons, but would assume you would then remove the sensor and relay from your favourites and just have the button visible.

Out of interest - what programming were you going to perform with the text colour option?

It does not look like that property is available in Programming.

Instead of programming the remote button clicks to navigate to menu item, you should be choosing the source directly in the programming.

When Entrance Door Cam senses motion
   If Family Room Is ON
       Select Entrance Door Cam Video in the Family Room
   if Alarm is armed
       Send Notification 'Someone is at the door' (with photo attatchement)
   else
      maybe do a voice alert or door bell chime
 

......

Thanks.

I was assuming this would be the way to go.
But I was hoping there would be some magic way to say follow my programming for this state, but revert to following connection for that state.

I like the simplicity of having the LED follow the light connection/scene toggle colour.
But given this colour is changed via programming, I'll just have to have the whole process follow programming.

Cheers for the response.

Hopefully I can explain the situation, so I can get some advice on ways to achieve the desired result.

I have a hallway with a study nook - two light circuits.
At one end I have a dimmer for the study and a 6 button keypad dimmer for the hallway
At the other end of the hall, I have a 6 button keypad.

I am trying to get the LED colours programmed on the 6 button keypad.

The top button is linked via connections to a toggle scene called 'Hallway + Study Off'
The scene has colour = black for toggle active and colour = blue for toggle inactive.

This works perfect.
If either or both of the hallway and study lights are on, the keypad is lit blue, if they are both off, the keypad is black.
The button turns the lights off when one or both are on, and both on if both are off.

Now I want to have the led red if the lights are on due to the motion sensor triggering a lighting scene.
I think my only option is to use the 'Set LED Current' property

When lighting scene Motion_Study is Invoked
   Set Hallway LED on the Study->Hallway Keypad to Red

This works, but I don't think there is a way to then set it back to using the toggle options for the linked scene?
Can I set it back to allow led colours to come from the toggle scene or do I need to program colours based on all the combinations?

Cheers.

23 hours ago, South Africa C4 user said:

C4 control (I moved off the Epic Driver a year or so back).

Any particular reason to move away from the Epic Driver?
I've seen a few threads with opinions both for and against using the Epic driver over the C4 voice scene driver.

I've just done a big clean up of all my programming and managed to simplify a huge amount of code - mainly due to my programming pre-dating Advanced lighting scenes and using a bunch of variables as change triggers.
Currently apart from lights and scenes, I only have two programmed voice triggers (a water fall and a patio heater)
Once I figure out what else I need, I'll be looking to program them in, but still unsure if I use Epic or C4's driver options.

Cool, thanks for the info.
The Epic driver is next on my list to get up and running again, although no hurry for me, as the Voice Scene driver seems ok for the limited use I have for it currently.
It's been a while since I did some research on Alexa and the options, as the Epic driver stopped working with OS2.9 and I was hesitant to upgrade given my reliance on my HC300.

I only recently swapped it out for the 2nd HC800 you pointed me to on eBay.
I bought a power supply for it from China and it took almost four months to get here due to the virus conditions....
 

As the others have mentioned, the sensor drivers offer you the programming options you want, here is an example for you:

You can then program specifically on 'When X senses/stops sensing motion' or use the 'When Contact State Changes'
Different drivers provide different wording, ie: the Door drivers offer 'open' and 'closed', the beam sensor offers 'broken' and 'restored'