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brucecampbell

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Posts posted by brucecampbell

  1. I'm looking for ideas on a good method to switch my receiver's audio mode when the input is the same source.

    I use Roku for Netflix and other video apps.
    I'm now looking to use Roku for Spotify so the playlist is displaying on the TV.
    Therefore the source will be the same for Netflix and Spotify, but I want Spotify to play music in 5ch Stereo, while Netflix should remain using Logic/DTS.

    My receiver is Harmon Kardon AVR255

    Audio source is optical out from the TV (Roku into TV via HDMI)
    Therefore the receiver uses the same audio source for all Roku apps and all TV apps.

    Any suggestions would be appreciated.

    Thanks.
     

     

  2. 1 hour ago, Cyknight said:

    You wish Disney and Prime would allow Roku to use the apps. In both cases it's not allowed by the streaming companies, Roku isn't the one stopping it.

    I did contact both Roku support and Disney support about two years ago, my memory could be at fault, but I believe the outcome was that because Roku is not actually sold in NZ, the streaming of certain platforms would not be supported.
    Anyway, whoever is preventing it working for me does not seem to be in any hurry to resolve it.

     

  3. On 4/19/2020 at 12:15 AM, Crustyloafer said:

    Amazing, almost all the updated drivers all are now supported on Sony TVs, included Disney+ and a load of UK stuff like iTV Hub, All4, Demand 5, BBC News and lots more.

    I wish ROKU would make all these universally used apps available universally..
    Still can't use Roku for Disney+ or Prime here in New Zealand, only Netflix and Youtube.

    Annoying having to stream from my phone instead of the nice C4 menu option combined with onscreen navigation...

    must be too small of a market here for them to care.

  4. On 11/19/2021 at 6:59 PM, kevinmuise said:

    Experience button? How to l create that?

    If you dealer is happy to do so, and you have the confidence to do so...
    Ask your dealer to send you the details on the experience buttons, you can then create your own with the images you want.
    Send it back to your dealer to check and install for you.

    Alternatively, you might be able to find the images and provide them to your dealer to write the driver.

    Use Vector images to avoid the background being included in the image.

     

  5. Hoping someone will have some ideas to help out here.

    When I ask Alexa to turn the volume up, she pulses the volume once.
    My receiver is rather annoying with volume control - it appears to display the volume on one pulse and then moves it on subsequent pulses.
    Works ok with the remote, as we generally click two or three times in one go to change the volume.
    Alexa does not do this and asking her to change the volume several times is not really a workable solution.

    Do I perhaps just need a specific Alexa command which will send multiple volume up/down signals?
    I do have the epic driver - so should be able to achieve this??

  6. I've had this before.

    Just as Alan mentions - incorrect IR codes can lock up the controller. 
    If you have had any drivers changed recently or new drivers added, start there.

    I was adding IR codes for discrete TV inputs, we copied some Panasonic codes found online and one in particular caused the system to lock up each time we sent the IR command.
    found the correct code, changed it on the driver and all was ok again.

     

  7. 5 hours ago, eggzlot said:

    Agree with @TundraSonic to pick a NVR platform first.  

    I am very happy with Blue Iris.  Though it integrates with C4 it is not required.  Blue Iris can do all the push / email notifications you want.  A cheap Refurb Dell PC will do the trick and now you have access to 1,000’s of cameras that you can mix and match.  

    Thanks, will check out the Blue Iris range.
    Not sure I will bother with any NVR though, not looking to spend on a whole security recording system.
    I think the free 7 day cloud storage some cheaper cameras offer might be fine for what I want.

     

  8. 6 hours ago, CTMatthew said:

    It doesn't sound like your application would benefit from a Control4 integration in any way. The most popular reasons for integrating cameras are for easy viewing from C4 tablets, integration with intercom features, and potentially programming system events off motion or boundary crossing etc. 

    It sounds like you need a pure security system that meets your surveillance needs first and foremost. 

    So choose a camera system that does what you need first and then worry about integration if it adds convenience for you.

    (I'm personally using UniFi Protect and love it, but hardly ever view the cameras in Control4)

    Thanks, I tend to agree, I don't really see any need for integration with C4
    I don't have any touch screens, I do not have an intercom, nor will I ever need either (never say never...)

    I will check out the UniFi range.

  9. I want to install 2 or 3 security cameras outside my house and business but don't know where to start.

    1. What are the benefits in choosing something which integrates with C4?

    2. I have a DSC alarm system connected to C4 with the IT100 using the Cinegration driver - is there any benefit in integrating the cameras into the existing alarm system?

    3. The requirements I think I want:
        IP rated for outdoors.
        WiFi would be easiest, each camera would need to connect to a different WAP
        I want an image emailed and/or pushed to several phones when motion is sensed (possibly only when the alarm is armed)  
        Image clarity to help identify car license plates and see faces is the goal.
        I might also want video recorded and available for playback - a week or two storage is probably enough.  The video would likely only ever be needed if the instant image show something dodgy, so constantly overwriting old videos is probably ok.  I don't want to go to the expense of a full on NAS drive and I don't wish to pay ongoing support for a cloud host.
     

    Would really appreciate any help here.

    Thanks.

     

     

  10. Just checked my settings - I have auto off after 5 seconds.

    I have not played much with it, 99% of the time I use connect, I do so in a room where the room is off when I use Spotify and I want to turn the room off when I leave/disconnect.
    It works perfectly.

    Can't say I know what happens if the room was already on, or if I have changed sources in the room.

     

  11. On 8/31/2021 at 1:58 AM, msgreenf said:

    Does this work for anyone?  It never appears to actually turn the zone off in my house.

    Yes - every time, 

    I can't say I remember my set up, but I go do a work out in the spare room.
    I use Spotify on my phone - connect to the room via 'connect', room turns on and plays my music.
    I use the remote in the room to control volume - just because it is easier than opening the C4app on my phone too.
    When I am done, I change Spotify to play on 'iphone' instead of 'gym' and a few seconds later the zone turns off.

     

  12. If you have the ability to run low voltage cable back to the controller, then I'd recommend using a relay.
    I've run 6 core alarm cable to different locations and split the wires for different uses.

    You can control the relay with the controller relay switch connections.

    I've done this for running several outdoor light transformers and a pump for a water fall feature.

    You can also have the icons show as lights on you app depending on which driver you go with.

     

  13. Looking for ideas on the best method for Alexa volume control.

    My TV does not have discrete volume levels - just up and down.

    When I say Alexa, turn the volume up, I get one pulse of the volume up, which does not actually move the volume on my receiver.
    One solution would be to have the volume control pulse longer, this would mean my remote function does the same (which might be a good thing)
    What other options do I have?

    Cheers.

  14. 1 hour ago, Cyknight said:

    Sorry, can't help you on the 240v wattage rating (I do remember the 120v being 600w single gang), but I DO know there were huge issues using these devices on the HC800/250 for zigbee, REQUIRING a 200/300 to handle all the zigbee (and no zigbee can be active at all on the 250/800). Now, I do not know if this also affects the EA series of controllers, but something to watch for.

    I have a range of LDZ, ELV and the new dimmers all working fine with Zigbee on my HC800
    I've seen in the past documentation on C4's website for legacy devices, just can't seem to find anything currently.

    some of the devices say up to 300w for fluro so probably ok, but want to check first.

  15. Can someone please point me to the documentation for the old ELV 240V dimmer.

    I have an old unused one and looking to install it to run 3 fluro lights.
    Would like to check the max wattage these can handle.

    Also like to know if there is any issue using a dimmer as a switch for fluro lights?

    my lights are 3 x 36w twin tubes = 216w

    thanks.

     

  16. 3 hours ago, videostorm said:

    It is just a different voice interaction model.  Designed to be more intuitive, at least to me anyway :)    And you don't need the 4sight license if you don't use it otherwise.

     

    • "Alexa, set Watch to Cable" (just like the Watch button, substitute Cable for your C4 video source names)
    • "Alexa, set Listen to Pandora" (just like the Listen button, substitute Pandora for your C4 audio source names)

    full examples in the docs at https://splash-tiles.com/help/alexa_c4.php

    Great to know there are options out there.

    I wish I had time to play around to see which suits me best.... one day hopefully.

    I use Alexa daily to turn the TV on and turn lights on and off.
    I would say the integration only works 70% of the time.
    In the times it fails, half the time we get a positive response from Alexa, stating the command was completed, however nothing happens.
    The remaining failures are Alexa not understanding us - which gets really frustrating, especially when she decides to play lounge music on spotify when you ask her to pause the lounge tv..
    The other annoying one is when Alexa says 'sorry I could not turn the light off' then the light turns off - this to me seems like the API has not responded in a timely manor - so assuming this is C4's fault here....?

     

     

     

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