AshMania

9 minutes ago, bballjn64 said:

This was my first stop when trying to integrate the C4 doorbells with Unifi Protect, but the result I came to was that it only worked on older versions of Unifi Protect, and it no longer works on the updated versions.

Good to know but also not . Thanks

On 4/20/2024 at 5:18 PM, bballjn64 said:

It's a bit of a long-winded reasoning and process that got me here, but here goes.

I originally was setup by my C4 dealer with Araknis (via SnapAV/SnapOne) networking equipment (router, switch, access points). But as my home network grew and I spent more time tinkering, I was not a fan of the Araknis management tools, interface, way over priced equipment cost, and especially the dealer-only access to buying it. I did some research and immediately became a fan of the Unifi platform regarding the pricing, ability to purchase it without a dealer, management tools, user interface, and the cohesive network environment. I originally swapped out my network equipment and installed a handful of Unifi cameras, and very much liked the Unifi protect camera system and app. The only draw back was Unifi wouldn't allow my C4 doorbells to stream via RTSP to the Unifi NVR,. so it required I have different apps for monitoring different cameras. 

In the end, I was able to utilize all the features I cared about with the C4 doorbells (doorbell button press trigger, motion detection, remote viewing) with the Unifi doorbells, and a Unifi driver to integrate with C4.

Do agree with UniFi being a closed system, but have you tried this?  https://github.com/keshavdv/unifi-cam-proxy?tab=readme-ov-file#readme or https://pypi.org/project/unifi-cam-proxy/

Curious - why the switch from C4 doorbell to Unifi Access?

On 3/2/2024 at 5:59 PM, alanchow said:

The DUALR3 doesn't have DIY mode so it would rely on eWeLink which is a cloud based API.  If you require two relays for your shades i would suggest looking at the Shely Plus 2PM

https://www.shelly.com/en-au/products/shop/shelly-plus-2-pm

Shelly Plus 2PM is the route I was initially planning to go, but the Sonoff DUALR3 was cheaper (which would be non-trivial as I multiply the number of shades I want to control), so figured I would find out.  Thanks for the confirmation.

Hi @alanchow / @Andrew luecke

Does the driver support motor mode for DUALR3 (for shade control)?  The post above and online driver webpage says DUALR3 switch mode is only supported - just wanted to confirm...

Thanks

Hi all

I have a Screen Innovations projection screen that uses a Somfy RS485 based motor (not RTS or Zigbee based).

In addition, I have some Somfy Glydea DCT drapery shade motors.

What is the best way to integrate both of them into Control4?

I am assuming Bond Bridge is out because it only works with Somfy RTS shade motors.

I was thinking that I could use Somfy's "Control4 to Digital Motor Interface (DMI)" as that should work with both my screen & curtains and I won't have mix different technologies/products.

https://www.somfypro.com/products/-/e-cat/1870533/Control4_to_Digital_Motor_Interface

Does anyone have any experience with integrating that module into C4?

Thanks

On 5/1/2023 at 11:20 AM, ajd123 said:

I currently have too many devices controlled via IR blasters (3 rogers ignite boxes, 3 Formuler Z10, 1 AppleTV) and would like to get them running off of IP.

1) Has anyone successfully setup IP control for the Rogers Ignite Boxes (model IPTVTCX16HD)

2) Has anyone successfully setup IP control for Formuler Z10 Pro Max boxes (https://www.formuler.tv/z10promax)?

3) Has anyone successfully setup IP control for AppleTV?

I am using https://drivercentral.io/platforms/control4-drivers/audio-video/google-android-control4-driver-chowmain/ for my Formuler GTV box - it works majority of the time but there are occasional times I need to restart the IPTV box as it gets unresponsive.  It should work on the Formuler Z line of boxes too...

I too am using the HSIM panel and its been for the most part (had a nasty issue with security wireless signals being garbled due to my AVPro video switch - that took many hours and dollars to troubleshoot).

But if given an option to start afresh, I would go for DSC over Honeywell...

Funny, I was just looking into this last week - thanks for providing the links as I only found the BestBuy link.

@ashwinmj - AFAIK, the fingerprint / bluetooth versions will work with Apple HomeKit, just not Apple Home Keys and the - is that correct?

And isn't Bluetooth in all versions of the lock, even if it isn't explicitly advertised?

And, what is the general consensus in terms of security / convenience of fingerprint vs Apple Home Keys.  My instinct says fingerprint is safer, requires no hardware to be on you - but in my experience, its not 100% reliable on locks (especially those exposed to the elements outdoor).

FWIW - Not related directly to the exact topic of the OP... But I use the following MOCA adapter (goCoax MoCA 2.5 Adapter with 2.5GbE Ethernet Port) to ensure that the FIOS cable boxes are able to get the EPG properly.  It has been rock solid and definitely a huge benefit by not having to pay the rental fee on the FIOS Gateway and my UDM Pro is the only one giving out DHCP addresses.

On 3/29/2023 at 12:47 PM, lippavisual said:

I’ve never seen nor heard of such a thing.

All your issues point to the security panel.  I’d also look into an external antenna for your wireless sensors. 

I already have an external antenna for the security panel.

On 3/29/2023 at 2:07 PM, Cyknight said:

...You're not trying to connect the AV HDBaseT connections to your regular network are you?

No

Hi all,

I am in the process of adding a AVPro based video distribution solution to my sister's home.

But it seems like the video solution (HDBaseT transmitters) seem to be interfering with my Honeywell Ademco (Vista 128BP version 4.4) based security system.

Basically, most of my wireless security devices (motion sensors, glass break sensors) seem to fault and the security panel cannot be armed until I bypass them.

This doesn't happen immediately and takes a few hours to manifest and also a few hours to be operational once i power off the video setup.

Another thing I noticed is that the specific devices that fault are also are not the same each time - they seem to be randomly affected.

And just last week I did notice some wired security devices (door/window contacts) also exhibit similar issues.

So, I am assuming that its some kind of electromagnetic interference (EMI) that is causing this as the AV rack is in the same closet which houses the security panel and the security antenna (both are on the wall about 2-3 feet away).

The funny thing is that I have a similar setup but with a DSC panel in my home and have no issues.

And FYI - I had earlier tried this with a Binary switch as well with the same results.

I have also tried grounding the AV rack itself, even bought some faraday cage type fabric to cover the HDBaseT receivers but no luck.

Any thoughts on what could be the source of my issues and potential options to remediate?

Thanks in advance

On 12/14/2022 at 2:33 PM, snow11shore said:

Hello all. What driver are you using for Verizon FIOS TV One Cable Box (Arris)? Only results for FIOS are icons and Arris is a media player from 2013.

Your help is greatly appreciated.

I think I am using the Motorola QIP-6416-1 IR-based driver to control the Verizon TV One.  Would prefer an IP-based driver, but it has been working for the most part.

Hi - would love to know as well...

On 11/27/2022 at 8:53 PM, Olichops said:

I have Minka through the house. The indoor ones usually have a seperate speed controller at the wiring connection cup. Don't use it and instead use the C4 speed controller. Now the outside ones have the controller built in the motor. Set it to Hi on the Minka remote and use C4 controller. Not ideal on the outside as I have had the speed lost once and a built in controller die requiring a new fan under the lifetime warranty on the motor.

I am considering the indoor ones - so, swapping their controller with the C4 one would be ideal.  Thanks

1 minute ago, Cyknight said:

Should work just fine - and no you won't need their own wall control (indeed, that's what you'll be replacing the C4 one with)

Thank you for your confirmation - just having the C4 fan control is the best option for me in terms of reliability and consistency.

Hello

I am thinking of installing the Mike Aire Roto XL 62" ceiling fan (Link to Mike Aire Roto XL Spec Sheet)

Will this integrate with the C4 fan speed controller natively?

Or do I need some other way of integration (Bond Bridge / additional drivers / etc.)?

I don't need a remote - a wall switch will do, but do I need a Minka Aire wall control (WC115) in addition to the C4 control (fan control or regular keypad)?

If I do need the Minka wall control, I'd prefer the C4 integration to be bi-directional, so that there is no confusion between the 2 control options.

Thanks

2 hours ago, alanchow said:

The LB driver will work with the KL bulbs.

Gotcha - thanks - I will try that...

On 12/29/2021 at 3:48 PM, alanchow said:

Haven't tested the others.  It likely will work though.  If you have the bulbs already then i recommend you try it out using our 90 day trial.

Maybe my dealer didn't give me the entire driver package, but I don't see the driver for the KLxxx light bulbs.  And also no setup instructions for them either.  How do I install them?

On 2/2/2022 at 11:08 PM, Topfox said:

 

I will double check mine again for you and let you know to ensure mine is actually moving it to standby through remote vs maybe a timeout in the fios box settings. 

Mine does revert to that standby screen after some time (I think a few hours of inactivity) - but I would like to know if there is a way to make it power off or not send a signal on command via the C4 driver (ideally via the Room Off event or worst case via programming - which is also not working for me).

Thanks

15 hours ago, Topfox said:

I don't think the new ones actually power off as much as they go into Stand By.  So when you turn on it is always at the Splash screen of something they are trying to sell on on demand.

At least thats what the 7 boxes I have do.

Does it go into the Standby screen when you kill the session / Room Off? 

I am not able to do either...

Anyone using the Motorola QIP-6416-1 driver for the new Verizon FIOS One STB - can you please confirm if you are able to power off the box using the driver?  I can do everything else (channel up/down, menu, exit, previous/last, etc.) - except power on/off

12 minutes ago, msgreenf said:

There is no audio out path I'm the dri er connection. It doesn't know how to route the audio. 

There video's audio endpoint is the Sonos - isn't that good enough to know how to route the audio?

Everything is working fine when I watch a video source, the audio matches the video and I am able to change the volume via my C4 remote - the only thing that I can't seem to do is turn off the Sonos sound when I do the "Room Off" function.  So, isn't the audio being routed properly?

I also tried programming the Room Off event for the room to STOP the Sonos Arc - that didn't work either

And FWIW - I have another Sonos Arc connected to my TV and that works fine.  But I wonder it the sound stops, because the TV is off and therefore the sound is not being sent to Sonos via the TV's ARC connection.  And in the bedroom, on room off, the projector turns off but that doesn't stop the video matrix from continuing to send the audio to Sonos and therefore the sound keeps coming through.

28 minutes ago, DanITman said:

@msgreenf why would you need something coming out of the arc soundbar? 

This is a unique setup where you are using the sonos arc with a projector.  So you are sending the audio through the matrix.  Try making the Video audio endpoint the matrix and not the sonos.  That might fix it.  Not sure. 

It is indeed a strange setup as this is in the bedroom.  Couldn't put a TV due to large windows in front of the bed.  And didn't have the ability to run lots of wires and do a full audio setup.  Plus the Sonos Arc also serves as a good speaker for music.

If I make the video endpoint the matrix, then there is no connection to the projector - then, the projector won't turn on/off - no?