Topfox

2 hours ago, cnicholson said:

If the multi-channel source you are sharing is being driven by an AVR with multi-zone capabilities, you might try feeding the matrix with the Zone2 output and let the AVR do the down mixing.  I've had mixed results here as some AVRs seem happy to downmix and others crap out when it comes to Atmos, in particular.

yep thats what I ended up doing for the main room I was looking for this capability in.  For the other areas I have a lot of duplicate sources, ex I have 6 Nvidia Sheilds.  So I just dropped half of them down in their audio capabilities, and labeled them as such.  That way if I know there might be a chance where I want to share audio with the house speakers I know to just use one of those downgraded sources.  Its working so far.  Wish one of the audio convertors that are like 50-100 could downmix Atmos.

Word. Yeah definitely wasn’t looking to go crazy. The main TV I wanted to be able to duplicate audio on has its own receiver, so I was able to do it with that one by just making the receiver a source in my rooms. 

Might not be worth it to try to get it going outside of this. 

Have a AV Pro Edge MX-1616 that I am doing Audio Extraction from to a Triad AMSv2 16.  All works good until I try to share audio with a source that is doing audio at a higher level than 2 ch.  Is there a "cheap" device I can put in between the RCAs from the MX-1616 to the AMS that can downmix all the audio over those RCAs to 2 ch? 

This is from the MX-1616 docs.

NOTE: Extracted Audio Ports are PCM 2CH audio up to LPCM 6 CH, Dolby Digital 5.1 & DTS. No down-mix.

Issue I have is remotes will just randomly stop sending whatever I’m sending although the remote itself seems responsive. Luckily it only requires me to restart the remote itself to fix it, but does get annoying. I’ve seen this on both Touch and Non touch versions although it is more frequent on Touch version and I haven’t seen it happen in a while on my non touch. 

I see similar type issues. But I’ve found if while it gives a circle of wait if I click on a different option than click back on my original option it’s full operated without error 

Have some C4 Light switches that are controlling some Phillips Hue bulbs.  Decided to play around with them tonight changing them from Load Control to 2 Button Config to see if I could keep power to the Hue bulbs on routinely allowing them to get updates while off.  Everything was going fine until I got to my switches that are in a 3 way configurations.  In the 3 way configurations I can get the C4 switch into 2 button mode and things work fine, but the C4 Aux switch continues to operate in Load Control manner.  Is there a way to prevent this from happening so that the Aux switch functions in the same manner as the main switch? 

Thanks everyone. 

What’s a good wireless motion sensor?  Basically just looking for an easy solution for a stairwell to trigger the light in motion.
 

Previously used Lutron occupancy switch, but my bulbs are Phillips hue in this stairwell and there is no way to keep the lights on long enough for the bulbs to get updates. Therefore want to just move to an external motion sensor to trigger off of. 

I think it was. If I remember right it was one of the reasons I didnt switch over when you were first able to. Think there was another thread on this back then. 

Believe @Time2Jet may have an Axion for sale. 

I’m doing unifi as well. With that said I’m not sure this is happening with all my Halo remotes, might just be an issue with one. I need to play with them all some more. 

I’ve had the same problem twice now myself. A restart of the remote fixes it, but not sure for how long. 

Working again for me. I did nothing to it. No unlinking or re-linking when it was previously broken. I just waited it out. 

Same problem here 

Sold 2 sets. Still have 2 sets remaining. 

2 remotes with batteries and cradles still available.

Haven’t read yet, but does it drop the license requirement?

At least for me that is a major blocker the ongoing cost or super large amount for unlimited ongoing. I’d prefer to move to Josh I believe, but not at the expense in comparison to Echo. 

2 hours ago, eggzlot said:

With the IRUSB, assuming you are using the IR Bud on the front to blast the signals right?  Not just using the USB input to send commands?

Are there any AFT with an IP Driver @lippavisual or anyone else in the know?

Nah. Ir bud is hidden behind the tv. All through the IRUSB companion app you load. 

Thanks again. Went the cheap media player route. Working perfect. 

Have 2 used SR260 remotes for sell. All in good condition. Come with charging cradles and batteries. 
 

$50 each. Buyer pays shipping. 

Thanks everyone for the ideas. 

Is there anyway to programmatically launch a video file?  Example: If I have a short video file of a logo, and I have Nvidia shield players, is there a way I can launch a routine from C4 that would start a TV and then auto play the video instead of say launching something like VLC player and then browsing to the locally stored file and launching manually. 

1 hour ago, Matt Lowe said:

none that i am aware of. I am still using the original extra vegetable drivers that have this function built in and it has worked just fine.

I’ll have to look into that. I’m not familiar with them. 
 

It’s a shame. I’d really like a low effort way to get this capability. Very few reasons I bounce out of the C4 experience to use a separate app. 

Asked this question a few years ago, but was curious if there was anything new out there to handle this. 

Today I use an app called Thorlight to do lighting animations with Phillips Hue bulbs. This basically makes the hue bulbs cycle through various lighting colors in sequence for example in a loop. I use this pretty heavily when I have parties. When it’s just me I’ll use the C4 color wheel and just pick a single color. So basiclaly depending on the scenario I’ll use either straight C4 or C4 to turn on lights but then Thorlight to control the animations. Would love to just do this all in C4 vs using both. 

Anyone have stuff like this already programmed, or any other driver out there that I can integrate to enable some animations?
 

I use IRUSB on my two fire TVs, although they are Toshiba brand. I can control those items with it.