THE L1ZARD KING

I’m waiting for them here in the US too. I’ve gotten same answer that they are unavailable. I wonder if a swappable color panel, a la Ring Pro would have been a good move?

A tip for those enabling 2FA. Make sure you generate and store some recovery tokens, they can be used to regain access and activate Google Authenticator after switching phones etc. They now outline this in their documentation but didn’t when I set it up after Krebs broke the initial news a couple months ago. I ran into an issue where I wiped my old phone before using the Google Authenticator app to export the key and transfer it to my new phone. Fortunately I was able to restore my old phone and access it again so it could be transferred, otherwise I would have been up a creek. The only recovery method at that point is a factory reset and a new UI account, key, etc. 

Have you tried the DLNA driver as opposed to the iTunes driver? I’ve had much better luck with most things that way. If you configure Twonky’s discovery setting to an interval of “-1” it will discover new music and playlists immediately. The only downside is that it won’t read playlists straight out of iTunes. To get around this I crated a folder and and export the playlist metadata (*.m3u files) to it, Twonky will pick those up and they work great. Downside is that you have to manually export your playlist every time you update it. 

My network is all UniFi as well, switches, router, WAPs etc. all without issue thus far. 

I’ve done what you described successfully with a 100ft. plenum RCA cable from Custom Cable Connection since I didn’t have any spare outs on my matrix. 

12 minutes ago, Gary Leeds UK said:

That would never happen - You keep forgetting Control4 Customers are Dealers - End Users are Dealers Customers 

That’s why I specified even if only to integrators/dealers. That way they could field questions from their customers.  I know they are largely in the dark too, but one could hope for transparency.

After letting the cat out of the bag twice now only to take it away deserves some official communication, even if only to integrators. FWIW it worked great when I tested it before it was removed again. 

...And it’s gone!
https://youtu.be/-DT7bX-B1Mg

34 minutes ago, ILoveC4 said:

Apparently they pulled it from the app. 

Accidental release? Glad to know it’s not just me. 

On 12/7/2020 at 11:26 AM, ILoveC4 said:

Nevermind - I just force closed the app and it's there now.

 

That didn’t work for me. I have the latest iOS app, and OS 3.2.1.  I tried rebooting my controller, force quit and reinstalled iOS app but not seeing anything different in any room including the ones with T3s, also nothing in side menu or settings. I have to be missing something obvious. 

I had a cloud backup complete this morning.
 

However, push notifications are no longer working for me. I reregistered my mobile device and reinstalled the app but no dice. The notification history on the customer portal shows that I have never sent a notification pre, or post upgrade so...

I will be real curious to see how the two models of the Chime compare to one another from a performance standpoint once integrators have had time to install both.

Curious if the new duplex outlet can be configured to have one of the ports as always on. Or if this would just be accomplished through programming.

Glad they were able to replicate it.  As a data point I experienced the issue on an EA5.

I experienced the same behavior as well, were only specific songs from albums wouldn't play.  For playlists I use the Apple Music app, and then export them for my DLNA folder.  I converted the files in the same directory as the original file and kept the name.  I then using an exported playlist I opened the M3U files in a text editor and did a find/replace on the file extension then re-imported them back in Apple music to get the two in lock-step again.

You can program a schedule using the “LED Wizard Driver” by RyanE. Just set the backlight color to black when you don’t want them on.

Just programmed all the TVs I want to on doorbell press snapshot room, pause room, if dark turn on certain lights, show front door camera for 20 seconds, then snapshot back to how it was. Also if nest CO or Smokes go off to open all shades, (for CO to open garages and turn on bathroom fan vents), unlock doors, turn off hvac, turn on lights inside, flash outside, and if CO not cancelled by triple tapping top button on a keypad after 5 min will call FD through alarm system. I'll probably create a custom button to disable this as well. I have 4 alarm company detectors then nest protects in all bedrooms, alarm system fire are already tied into alarm so I didn't program fire to call FD. Oh and all TVs come on w all cameras showing. 

It’s been a couple months (and I removed it after conversion) but I think I used an app called dBpoweramp which supported batch conversion. I was able to point it to a parent folder and have it convert everything underneath. I had everything organized so I had it put the converted files in the source directory then wrote a quick bash script to find and delete the M4A files.

https://www.dbpoweramp.com/dmc.htm

Curious if you are seeing the same problem I was seeing a few months ago. Like you I suspected the track was corrupted somehow as the vast majority of my library was M4A, and some tracks even writhing a single album played and others refused via C4. I was using DLNA rather than NAS but sounds similar. Out of desperation I converting one of the problematic M4A tracks to MP3 and it played just fine. Ultimately I ended up converting all my M4A tracks to MP3 with equivalent compression and left my FLAC files alone. This ended up solving the problem for me. While ultimately a workaround I didn’t have the energy to pursue it further since everything is working fine now.

Is there a way to program audio "playlists" using the DLNA driver?  I have scoured this forum and HE, but not finding much.  It seems that you can program via "album" in HE with the DLNA driver, and you favorite playlists to the home screen of a room, but I can't seem to figure out the last mile if you will.  An alternative would be to use Amazon music, but I am not seeing much there either.  Old posts show that this is possible with Spotify but haven't been able to track anything down for Amazon Music.

I'm having a slightly different problem, all of my T3's have the echo chime settings unchecked and greyed out in HE.  However, just one of them plays the 3 beep echo calibration on startup.  I tried using the "apply to..." button to apply the settings from a T3 that doesn't perform the calibration but no dice.

Same, I bought and LG (OLED55B9PUA) and IP Control has been working great. I tried it using a wired connection and WiFi. The wired connection is more responsive and connects almost immediately, where on WiFi it would take a couple of extra seconds. Recommend wired where possible.

For what it’s worth the solution that worked best for me was to use Twonky on an always on Mac and point it against a folder containing my library and another for FLAC. I configure the Music app(formerly iTunes) to auto-download purchases so new music is available almost instantly regardless of the device it was purchased on. And Twonky aggregates the FLAC and Non-FLAC media so everything shows up under the same artist. I can then create playlists in the Music app and export them to a folder that Twonky is monitoring to have them in C4. The performance (specifically album art load times) and “search” capabilities of Twonky made it far superior to the DLNA servers I was able to run on my NAS directly. I also had a number of volume related issues with the iTunes driver, which led me down the DLNA path originally.

If you need your library on a NAS, you could just have a mounted drive on your PC/Mac to your NAS and just have Twonky point to that.

Nice find Mitch, that may be exactly what I am looking for.  Will have to read up on the documentation included with the driver.

I recently had some engraved buttons ordered, and finally began using the backlight on all my switches.  After much tweaking they largely work like I'd expect, though I have seen some substantial variances in detected light been switches of the same variety in the same dual-gang box.

What I'd like to see is being able to bind switches to a common sensor so they all work in unison, but are still able to function dynamically.  This should also help with switches that are next to each other but have different colors because one in dimmer that the other (poking around the back catalog of posts it seems that is a pretty common scenario too).