WhyPhy

23 hours ago, tmj4 said:

Went with a *ahem* cheaper *ahem*  brand that works very well with DV/12 bit/4:4:4 support and a fraction of the cost. Only downside is that it doesn't natively support Atmos/DTS:X downmix for extracting for distributed audio elsewhere.

Come on - tell us the name of the company!

I’m also interested to know which matrix solutions are preferable as I was looking at AV Pro Edge initially. But also, I’m pretty happy with the one HDMI splitter for 1 device that allows whole-house synchronous for sports - I’m not sure I have much need for a true matrix solution. 

I work with Modbus in my day job. FYI for others, it is the standard throughout the generator market (including industrial and commercial) and is traditionally run over RS485 serial, but newer implementations are over IP.

I’m impressed that you learned the protocol and got the driver working!

I think the contemporary buttons look fine in decora wall plates if you use the old-style light bar. The only configuration that looks bad is the top middle (decora plate with new recessed light bar.)

(unless I’m misinterpreting the photo.)

On 11/15/2021 at 10:19 AM, bobbay said:

The Contemporary dimmers/switches are NOT decora. They are smaller. They will fit in a Decora faceplate, but there will be gaps around the device. C4 Contemporary faceplates will NOT work with standard decora outlets, switches etc. The opening is smaller than a Decora opening. There is, or is going to be, a C4 faceplate that is 1 contemporary opening and 1 decora opening. 

Maybe there was a design constraint with the existing switches that caused them to go away from the decora form factor, but this seems like a terrible choice. 
 

Can someone take a photo of the contemporary buttons in a decora faceplate?

The 2-piece Eaton screwless faceplates are definitely thicker than traditional faceplates. Hopefully they will work similarly with the contemporary buttons.

33 minutes ago, ejn1 said:

thanks...   But i guess you still have to be committed to change every single face plate at once,  C4 and also power outlets.

IT all depends on how committed you are to everything matching perfectly. I’m probably going to go with matte white buttons but everything else will be gloss white. But most people wouldn’t even notice conventional outlets vs. decorator-style outlets. 

21 minutes ago, ejn1 said:

what about folks who have faceplates also in the house for power outlets...  Some decora and some not maybe.   Do you change every one of those faceplates also to the control 4 faceplate? 

I have gloss white Eaton screwless decorator faceplates for all of my switches and outlets (all outlets are decorator form factor.) They look identical to the C4 Contemporary faceplates as far as I can tell. While I’d prefer matte white (Snow White), I hope I  don’t need  to change out faceplates to work with the Contemporary buttons. My guess is that they are compatible. 

23 hours ago, C4 User said:

I did not understand what happened to the actuator/light sense bars. They now recess to the back of the buttons when installed and the face plate covers/hides them (but still allows light to hit the sensor).

I’m assuming that the buttons are slightly taller and that they still work with non-C4 faceplates? It looks like the actuator / circuit disconnect bar is no longer accessible without removing the faceplate. 
 

Can you post some photos of the contemporary buttons and actuator/light bar?

I’m not sure what all of your objectives are, so you may consider August for direct AirBnb integration or Lynx as a reservation management system: https://www.getlynx.co/integrations/

Here are some other ideas: 

https://carltonbale.com/best-smart-home-technology-for-your-airbnb-vrbo-vacation-rental/

If you want to control the entry door as well, an electric door strike would be the best option. It’s better for a rental because it doesn’t require battery replacement and mostly works like a regular door. 
 

You should consider a commercial door entry system. They control doors via a contact closure, which is how the wall buttons control garage doors. Ubiquiti UniFi Access is the closest to a prosumer solution. 
 

A security system with access control and a relay/contact closure can also do this. Elk M1 and other panels can do this. 
 

Any of these options will cost several hundred dollars plus installation. I can’t think of a cheaper option. 

The current design is great when not placed near a light switch. A decora form factor or decora adapter plate would be much better for mounting in the vicinity of light switches, which must be common or else the Lutron product wouldn’t exist. 
 

As for the USB-C POE adapter, they could have done better. 

22 hours ago, RAV said:

Frankly, Nano should be made available as POE one gang decora device and loose the USB C power thing.

I agree completely. Josh.ai nailed the functionality on Nano but completely missed with the form. POE decora would solve so many problems. 

On 7/31/2021 at 7:43 PM, Cyknight said:

Driver may not be set to 'ignore device volume' (this allows volume control via the phone's controls vs C4/app, but ignores default volumes last time i tried it, which was admittedly a long time ago)

Yes, it is set to use the device volume. It seems like a major miss to ignore the room default volume. An amp volume level of zero makes device volume irrelevant. 
 

Thanks for the info. I’ll try disabling the option to use source device volume. 

I have a similar problem. All of my rooms have the default volume set to 60%. But when I start an Airplay session, some rooms start at 0% volume every time, while others start at 60%. I've gone through every room and triple-checked and the default volumes are all set the same and there is no programming for volume levels in any room.

Is there some other setting I'm missing? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I have a 10-year old TV mounted in my covered porch and it’s worked fine for several years. But it’s not directly where it can be rained on and we’re not near ocean/lake/water. Although it’s in a completely shaded area, the screen is not quite bright enough on sunny days. It wouldn’t last if rain/weather could get to it.
 

If you don’t already have an existing/old TV to use, I would definitely get a dedicated outdoor TV. The brightness and long-term durability will be worth it.

Sunbright Veranda have a very good reputation. Samsung has the Terrace line deficated outdoor TVs. Séura Shade Series and Peerless are other options. 

The Elk Security Panel access control features integrate with C4 via the Chowmain Driver. 
 

http://www.chowmainsoft.com/m1-control4

“Customer/Client Door Access Administration with Wiegand Learning Support”

4 hours ago, mstafford388 said:

You probably can't program directly to "source", but I'm assuming zone2 is another room in your control4 project.  You can use the room control driver to sync that room with your surround sound room.  So if your main zone is on input 2 Control4 will know it needs to set the zone 2 room to input 2.  

The problem is that my Denon receiver will only downmix “zone 1 / multi-channel audio” to “zone 2 / 2-channel audio” if zone 2 is set to “source”. If zone 1 and zone 2 are both set to “input 2” there is no audio down-mixing. I wish there was a discrete command for “zone 2 - source” input. 

Do you know how to set Zone 2 to "Source" in Control4? For my Denon receiver, I'm only seeing inputs 1/2/3/4/5 as discrete sources in Composer (and not "Source".) I can only get to "Source" by selecting it with the Zone 2 input button on the front panel of the Denon.

(And to be clear, when "source" is selected for Zone 2, it plays the currently-selected source for Zone 1.)

I guess ohsnap.com was taken?

Hi Nick, sorry for the delay in responding. They are already sold. I'll update the listing accordingly.

SOLD

I purchased 2 LiftMaster Security+ 2.0 Wired Dry Contact Adapters (LiftMaster 883LMW Garadget conversion.) They enable a Control4 relay to activate the garage door button.

I purchased these for a project with LiftMaster 8500 wall-mount garage door openers, which do not work with (and do not require) these buttons/adapters. (The LiftMaster 8500W and pretty much all other LiftMaster/Chamberlin garage door openers require these for dry contact operation.) Both are new and never installed.

SOLD

It’s disappointing to hear about clients who treat dealers this way. It’s perhaps how this person goes through life treating everyone. 
 

You all deserve to be paid for your work.