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About WhyPhy

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    Control4 End User

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  1. The best gate controller I’ve found is the iSmartGate Pro. And it integrates with pretty much everything...except Control4. I contacted them about sharing the API to create a Control4 driver and they said they would “share that info with their dev team.” As others have mentioned, something that is controlled by relay contact closure is the best for C4. I would consider iSmartGate Pro as a secondary add-on control option. https://ismartgate.com
  2. I’m glad to see it’s POE. I’m using an on/off switch for now as the C4 fan controller wasn’t compatible with my DC motor fan. I’ll probably wait for the Pro version to add fan speed control.
  3. It was more of a challenging process than anticipated, but everything is working now. Hopefully the feedback will lead to improvements to make it easier for others in the future.
  4. I also want to help VS succeed. I know how hard it can be for small technology companies. Yeah, the out-of-box experience wasn't ideal. I eventually looked on the website when I got around to installing the Control4 drivers, but that wasn't until after the "ghost key press issue" presented itself. I'm guessing I'm not the only person to ever experience this. Even if full instructions aren't in the box, there should at least be the warning message about not plugging it in without first downloading the app, and also a link to the full online instructions.
  5. I understand that the IRUSB app is required for the IRUSB hardware to function. It's an Android limitation. That was never in question. I don't understand why the IRUSB hardware continuously sends key commands that make the Android host device unusable before the IRUSB app is installed. I also don't understand why there aren't better instructions the the box stating "Do not install IRUSB hardware until IRUSB app has been installed from app store. Android device will not function properly if IRUSB hardware in installed without IRUSB app first being installed." Better yet, the hardware should ship with firmware that doesn't cause the "ghost remote key press" issue. The first priority should be "do no harm." I understand why the IRUSB app auto-launches and why it must display a full-screen page. It's an Android limitation. That was never in question. I don't understand why IRUSB app chooses to show such a user-unfriendly splash screen when it auto-launches. A user-first approach would be "Dear user, we're sorry this splash screen is interrupting your experience, but it's required for your device to interface with your remote control and home automation system. You can now press the back button to return to the main screen. (Oh, and if you'd like to learn more about our other products, please click here.)" A user-unfriendly approach would be "There's no obvious reason why the screen is being displayed, so let's take this chance to show some ads that makes things more confusing." Let me give an example of how this experience manifested itself last night. It was completely unplanned because it was the first time the Shield has been rebooted since installing IRUSB, but it demonstrates how the user experience could be better. I start watching a TV show on Plex with my wife and daughter. About 30 minutes in, a Plex error message pops up. Rebooting is generally the universal fix, so I show my wife and daughter how to do that if it ever happens again and I'm not around. I reboot from the Shield menu using the the Shield remote Device reboots, I open Plex, we resume watching the show A few minutes later, the IRUSB pop-up screen happens Before I can say or do anything, the comments start flying: Daughter: "What just happened? Dad, I think you need to reboot again." Wife: "It looks like a 4th grader made a powerpoint" Daughter: "It has 2 exclamation points, so I'm definitely going to buy it." Wife: "Why is there are a 'VS' in the corner? Are two people getting ready to fight each other like in that old video game?" Me: "Sorry, this is happens a few minutes after a reboot. I could explain why but you don't care. Just ignore it and exit back to Plex." If I hadn't been there, my daughter probably would have pushed buttons until things returned to normal, but my wife would have called me and asked what to do to make sure she didn't mess anything up. Please don't misinterpret the intent of my comments. The purpose is to highlight ways to improve the customer experience to make the product more user-friendly and desirable. It's difficult to develop hardware, software, and a great user experience. This is constructive feedback to help identify opportunities for improvement.
  6. Yeah, but the other video storm apps are for distributed video and digital signs, which are not features that would ever be used if you're just after IP remote control. BTW, the IRUSB hardware without the IRUSB app is a disaster. The dongle makes the Android TV unusable due to continually sending button presses every 2 minutes that cause apps to continually exit. Who thought that was a good idea?
  7. Why do I need the NetPlayTV and/or SplashTiles apps to use IRUSB?
  8. That is a slight improvement, but it still doesn't make sense to the average user who has no idea what IRUSB is; they don't even know they are using IRUSB. They just want to turn on the TV and watch something. Also, I don't see why additional Netplay TV/SplashTiles apps should be installed just to change the default screen to something slightly less confusing; extra apps create even more potential for end-user confusion. This doesn't really match the intent of Control4 being a professional installer level solution.
  9. The "attractive, user-friendly splash screen" is a great suggestion. The existing splash screen is pure confusion for end users. It makes it look like the device has been hacked by ad-ware. It should look like specialized control software the user paid to have installed by a smart home professional.
  10. To remove the touchscreen from the wall mount, you will need the Control4 Touchscreen Removal Tool. It's a flat metal plate with unlocking tines that release the touchscreen from the backer box. There are 2 backer boxes: the outer box that attaches to the stud and the inner box that has the Ethernet/power ports on it. The inner box will need to be removed from outer box and included with the T3 when you sell it. The outer box can be left in your wall and a blank cover plate can be placed on top of it.
  11. This worked for me as well on my LG OLEDC9PUB, but it wasn't the channel banner that appeared after holding the settings button for 5 seconds. It was the setup menu icons along the left side of the screen.
  12. Is there a way to automatically have a T3 touchscreen turn on and display the live camera view from Doorstation DS2 when the DS2 detects motion? I want the screen to come on and display video when someone approaches the front door, even if they don't press the doorbell button.
  13. What mujtaba is saying is that the switch can't directly dim / color change the low voltage LEDs. The low voltage LEDs needs to be controlled by their own power supply/controller, and then C4 controller uses a driver to communicate with the LED controller. The C4 switches would send commands to the C4 controller, which would send commands to the LED controller, which would control the lights. Some examples of this are Philips Hue (C4 controller -> Philips Hue controller -> Philips Hue LED light strip) and DMX (C4 controller -> DMX controller -> LED light strip.) This allows dimming control and color change control. But this is only if you need dimming capability or color change capability. If you don't, the easiest solution is to have a Control 4 wall switch (SW120277) turn the LED power supply on / off. The LED power supply is what converts high voltage to low voltage. This is the solution I'd recommend unless you're set on dimming or color change.
  14. Yes, it should be the outer 2 relay terminals. You don’t need to use the center (normally closed) terminal on the relay. Then program the DS2 to activate the relay on button press; this is configured in the device settings.
  15. From what I read, it no longer works in BlueIris after the Nest firmware/security update a few months ago.
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