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WhyPhy

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  1. I’m located in the US and use Telguard. The monthly cost for their Telguard TG-SCI Plus dual-path communicator with SafetyNet (i.e. connecting it to WiFi) is a quarter the cost of cellular-only monitoring through my prior provider. Telguard is widely supported and my experience with them has been excellent. https://www.telguard.com/product/tg-sci-plus/
  2. Reason 1: Price. The monthly fees are cheaper if cellular is the backup rather than the primary. Reason 2: Reliability. It’s better to have 2 communication paths instead of one. Cellular can go down, and it’s good to have a second path, especially if it’s also less expensive. I previously had cellular as the primary and switched to dual path. The monthly fee was cut in half and the event reporting times also became much faster.
  3. What I'm using for access control at my new house is an ELK security system integrated to C4. External (outside) Wiegand-compatible keypads / RFID readers provide the external access control, both for keyfobs and numeric codes. Each external Wiegand keypad connects to an ELK Alarm keypad inside the house. These UHPPOTE keypads are compatible with HID-style prox cards, which are a step up from the older low-frequency cards. Low-frequency readers are cheaper and more widely available/compatible, but I'm hoping these will work out. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=UHPPOTE+Metal+Keypad+IP65+Wiegand+125KHz&ref=nb_sb_noss
  4. I think the best option is a universal dual-path IP/cellular communicators. They primarily communicate over your internet connection and only use cellular if your internet is down. I use the Telguard TG-SCI Plus or the ELK C1M1, depending on the situation. Alula BAT and Napco Starlink are other options.
  5. If you want to install it yourself, ELK is the most DIY-friendly "professional level" system. End-users can register to get the configuration software. But I wouldn't consider it easy to install; you have to learn their Windows-based configuration tool and read through the manuals. ELK has a dual-path LTE and Ethernet communicator.
  6. For me personally, I wouldn’t worry about the warranty. It’s now against the law for “stickers being broken” to void the warranty, and your NVR probably doesn’t even have a “warranty void if broken sticker.”. And if you do have a problem, just put the stock fans back in and send it in for warranty. Closing off all of the airflow to the cabinet is the most likely thing to make the NVR fail. I definitely would not do that unless you have a huge volume of space inside the cabinet.
  7. Sealing up the cracks/openings in the cabinet is the only way to keep the noise from coming out. Adding soundproofing will not make a substantial difference as long as you have openings in the cabinet. Your best bet is to disassemble the NVR and replace the fans with something quieter.
  8. Exactly. If the amp can handle a 4-ohm load, that's the way to go when driving multiple speakers. Especially if you want "higher than background music" volume levels. An amp will produce twice the power output with a 4-ohm load as it does with 8 ohms, which can be a big benefit if driving multiple speakers. Conversely, the amp will produce half the power with a 16-ohm load (two 8-ohm speakers in series), which is still OK if you only want background music, but not so great if you want higher volume levels. I currently run multiple 4-speaker zones at 4 ohms (two 8-ohm speakers in parallel on each channel.) Each zone is powered by a Sonos ZP120.
  9. That’s my understanding. But no video recording, cell backup, or central monitoring on free plan But perhaps could accomplish almost the same with C4 notifications of inputs being tripped.
  10. There is no API (either cloud or local) from Ring, so no way to integrate it with anything outside of what Ring releases (i.e. Amazon Alexa.) $10/month for monitored security, cell backup, and unlimited camera monitoring is a very compelling price point. But the lack of integration makes it suitable for only the most basic setups.
  11. Parts Express and Monoprice both sell a combination matrix switcher and multizone amp. It can be controlled via RS232. You can do 6 zones from each amp, and daisy chain 3 amps together for 18 total zones. They come with keypads for each room, but you don’t need them if controlling the amps from a control system such as C4. I did see a driver somewhere for these amps. https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dax66-6-source-6-room-distributed-whole-house-audio-system-with-keypads-25-wpc--300-585 https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=10761
  12. I can say with complete certainty that the Ecobee 4 can control Heat Pumps with up to 4 stages each. https://support.ecobee.com/hc/en-us/articles/115006077367-What-types-of-HVAC-systems-are-ecobee-thermostats-compatible-with- You have 4 zones, and most likely, it's the Trane Comfortlink II proprietary zone controller is being used. That zone controller is not compatible with standard/conventional thermostat 5-wire (R, G, Y, W, C) configurations and instead requires the XL1050 thermostat. So it's most likely a Zone Controller compatibility issue, not a Trane Heat Pump compatibility issue. A Trane dealer knows Trane equipment, and that's what they are going to sell you. That is the highest-end multi-zone system Trane makes. I think it's overly complicated and expensive for what still feels like a dated user interface, but it will definitely get the job done. I'm pretty sure they could use Ecobee thermostats and an Aprilaire 6404 zone controller or an EcoJay 4-zone SmartZone controller instead. But they won't be familiar with those controllers and won't want to warranty it. Go with what your HVAC installer knows. (FYI, my local Trane HVAC company switched from Trane to Aprilaire thermostats and zone controllers for these and other reasons.)
  13. I would assume that it has a secondary lower resolution stream that would display on standard monitors. Maybe/most likely horizontally compressed. The secondary substream resolution is 704x320 @30fps. Not sure how C4 would handle that.
  14. Has anyone tried Announcements with the new Sonos Amp and API? Is the feature in the Sonos Driver for C4 yet?
  15. It looks to me like the Dresden Electric is only 4 channels, so not true RGB+Tunable White. For Tunable White you need 5 channels: RGB+WarmWhite+CoolWhite. I like the idea of using the Hue driver for this. I'd give up on the RGB (that you'll probably never use) and do 2-channel Tunable White (WarmWhite+CoolWhite). https://shop.dresden-elektronik.de/fls-ct-lp.html?___store=english&___from_store=deutsch I've been looking at these DMX solutions, but agree that it's overly complicated. This Hue-compatible solution looks like the way to go. Is it difficult to get shipped to the US?
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