Shoe

I prefer my Shields. I bought a Roku to support the deep linking with Josh. These are all relatively cheap. My recent find of a launcher for the Shield to remove the ads etc has made me like those even more.

I just wanted to mention I started using Projectivy Launcher on NVIDIA Shield and it seems to be working well. No rooting needed. It has allowed me to remove all of the ads and simplify the UI. Looks like there are some ways to use your own backgrounds etc so branding or client customization looks pretty simple. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.spocky.projengmenu&hl=en_US&gl=US Decent intro to the features.

I read that post a few times and still wasn't sure if you wanted to control Xfinity boxes or some other boxes. You want to control the boxes from the PC by telling C4 to set the channel using scripting on the PC? Do I have that right?

After playing with Josh a bit I'm convinced that using Sonos for each zone is likely the most agreeable approach to Josh responses and room audio. Too bad Sonos doesn't make a rack solution.

If it were me I'd do this, but mostly because I wouldn't want to risk my controller to a lightning event with a direct connection over 40m.

I think it would be easier if you stick to one of your threads instead of spreading your issues across multiple threads. Lots of ways to skin this cat, but the easiest for a DIY person is to get a Dream Machine for those AP's. If you want to mix and match and keep costs down then generally the exchange is greater complexity and care. Saving a few bucks makes sense when you don't have the bucks. Spending the money makes sense when you take a look at the time you will need to spend and check that against how you would value your time. All that said, if you have a remote dealer or someone that helps you with stuff and you intend to use them in the future, you may want to take their advice on what they are comfortable working with. Unifi is really easy if you are all Unifi and giving remote access to the network when needed is a couple clicks.

How is everything else working? Reserved IP's and any IP assignments may need to be reviewed.

Can you mention more about your setup with Josh?

Update: I have a Dakboard on rpi5 and an IR touch panel frame for the 50" Samsung The Frame TV. I've also ordered a Lumi TV so I can do a bake off or live with both and use whichever one works best for the task at hand. I will update again when things are clearer. I haven't had a chance to play with Splash tiles yet, but my wife is interested in finding some good webgl weather apps. I also need to find a new frame for the tv due to the added depth of the IR frame. If anyone wants to mount one of these frame tv's that doesn't come with the vertical mount I've found this product to be decent. The same product is sold by a few different vendors. What I like about it is that the hanger channel is aluminum and cuts easily. This allows you to shorten it. You can also mount the tv anywhere on the channel so you can position the hanger to span some studs and position the tv offset. Its a very similar design to the OEM mount, but allows you to vesa mount it.

At least Josh.ai takes some responsibility for issues with thermostats... in an amusing way...

Thanks. I asked for your opinion I like your edgy personality. Does make things interesting. I like interesting. I found some online videos and picked one that sort of describes what I was suggesting. Insert disclaimer here again about using professionals and your brain.

I'm not understanding that. I'm sorry. I'm saying wire a contact sensor through the aux to the Kidde relay. Meaning you just turn the contact sensor and Kidde relay combination into a wireless smoke or O2 event monitor. Does that solve your concerns or was your concerns simply wiring to the panel? For example, I have the PG9309 PowerG sensors with the aux input. Its an easy way to convert a wired sensor to use PowerG. You could do the same with a line level Shelly or multiple other Control4 methods to use the events. Or is your concern simply having the Kidde relay at all? Since I've been clear this isn't for true life safety and it's just for capturing the event type I was just curious what you would be ok with. It's fine with me if the answer is none of it. Just curious.

The relays sense the signal on the 9v interconnect line. Smoke and CO have different signals so both relays are needed. They aren't expensive and are easy to test. If we had the ability to create Control4 drivers for Z-Wave we could build a driver for Zooz Zen55's which support the 3 signal types from one device. I will remind you that these relays do not work when the power on this circuit is out. The alarms will work because they are battery operated, but these relays are using the line power to operate. This is why I also have PowerG smokes and don't rely on the relays for life safety. They are just extra events. Again, use your best judgement and use licensed electricians and alarm installers.

Ok, a lot to unpack there. Do I understand you are cool with using those kind of relays with contact sensors like PowerG or Control4 to ether connect to the alarm system or Control4 to have events to program from?

It's actually a very common use. These are legit products built for this exact purpose. I think if they are installed by licensed professionals and follow local and whatever other codes they can be useful. I'm not an insurance adjuster or inspector. I do, however, work on local municipal building code. I agree with you that all bets are off when it comes to insurance companies. Since C4 is Global I wont even attempt to be an expert on laws and local practices. Use your best judgement and use a licensed alarm installer. To be honest I don't even know if C4 is allowed on a UL certified alarm system. Curious though. I'm hopeful.