Shoe

I prefer my Shields. I bought a Roku to support the deep linking with Josh. These are all relatively cheap. My recent find of a launcher for the Shield to remove the ads etc has made me like those even more.

I just wanted to mention I started using Projectivy Launcher on NVIDIA Shield and it seems to be working well. No rooting needed. It has allowed me to remove all of the ads and simplify the UI. Looks like there are some ways to use your own backgrounds etc so branding or client customization looks pretty simple. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.spocky.projengmenu&hl=en_US&gl=US Decent intro to the features.

I read that post a few times and still wasn't sure if you wanted to control Xfinity boxes or some other boxes. You want to control the boxes from the PC by telling C4 to set the channel using scripting on the PC? Do I have that right?

After playing with Josh a bit I'm convinced that using Sonos for each zone is likely the most agreeable approach to Josh responses and room audio. Too bad Sonos doesn't make a rack solution.

If it were me I'd do this, but mostly because I wouldn't want to risk my controller to a lightning event with a direct connection over 40m.

I think it would be easier if you stick to one of your threads instead of spreading your issues across multiple threads. Lots of ways to skin this cat, but the easiest for a DIY person is to get a Dream Machine for those AP's. If you want to mix and match and keep costs down then generally the exchange is greater complexity and care. Saving a few bucks makes sense when you don't have the bucks. Spending the money makes sense when you take a look at the time you will need to spend and check that against how you would value your time. All that said, if you have a remote dealer or someone that helps you with stuff and you intend to use them in the future, you may want to take their advice on what they are comfortable working with. Unifi is really easy if you are all Unifi and giving remote access to the network when needed is a couple clicks.

How is everything else working? Reserved IP's and any IP assignments may need to be reviewed.

Can you mention more about your setup with Josh?

Update: I have a Dakboard on rpi5 and an IR touch panel frame for the 50" Samsung The Frame TV. I've also ordered a Lumi TV so I can do a bake off or live with both and use whichever one works best for the task at hand. I will update again when things are clearer. I haven't had a chance to play with Splash tiles yet, but my wife is interested in finding some good webgl weather apps. I also need to find a new frame for the tv due to the added depth of the IR frame. If anyone wants to mount one of these frame tv's that doesn't come with the vertical mount I've found this product to be decent. The same product is sold by a few different vendors. What I like about it is that the hanger channel is aluminum and cuts easily. This allows you to shorten it. You can also mount the tv anywhere on the channel so you can position the hanger to span some studs and position the tv offset. Its a very similar design to the OEM mount, but allows you to vesa mount it.

At least Josh.ai takes some responsibility for issues with thermostats... in an amusing way...

Thanks. I asked for your opinion I like your edgy personality. Does make things interesting. I like interesting. I found some online videos and picked one that sort of describes what I was suggesting. Insert disclaimer here again about using professionals and your brain.

I'm not understanding that. I'm sorry. I'm saying wire a contact sensor through the aux to the Kidde relay. Meaning you just turn the contact sensor and Kidde relay combination into a wireless smoke or O2 event monitor. Does that solve your concerns or was your concerns simply wiring to the panel? For example, I have the PG9309 PowerG sensors with the aux input. Its an easy way to convert a wired sensor to use PowerG. You could do the same with a line level Shelly or multiple other Control4 methods to use the events. Or is your concern simply having the Kidde relay at all? Since I've been clear this isn't for true life safety and it's just for capturing the event type I was just curious what you would be ok with. It's fine with me if the answer is none of it. Just curious.

The relays sense the signal on the 9v interconnect line. Smoke and CO have different signals so both relays are needed. They aren't expensive and are easy to test. If we had the ability to create Control4 drivers for Z-Wave we could build a driver for Zooz Zen55's which support the 3 signal types from one device. I will remind you that these relays do not work when the power on this circuit is out. The alarms will work because they are battery operated, but these relays are using the line power to operate. This is why I also have PowerG smokes and don't rely on the relays for life safety. They are just extra events. Again, use your best judgement and use licensed electricians and alarm installers.

Ok, a lot to unpack there. Do I understand you are cool with using those kind of relays with contact sensors like PowerG or Control4 to ether connect to the alarm system or Control4 to have events to program from?

It's actually a very common use. These are legit products built for this exact purpose. I think if they are installed by licensed professionals and follow local and whatever other codes they can be useful. I'm not an insurance adjuster or inspector. I do, however, work on local municipal building code. I agree with you that all bets are off when it comes to insurance companies. Since C4 is Global I wont even attempt to be an expert on laws and local practices. Use your best judgement and use a licensed alarm installer. To be honest I don't even know if C4 is allowed on a UL certified alarm system. Curious though. I'm hopeful.

Ok, checking back in on this thread. Let me try to clarify some basic things: OP wants events so he can create some programming off the type of alarm coming from two wire smoke/co units connected through what I'm hoping is a standard circuit interconnect. OP has an alarm panel that is already sending an alarm on smoke/co, but does not indicate the type of alarm. You have a few choices: Change your alarm system and integration to one that alerts on smoke and co and provides the programming Add relays that enable alerts for smoke and co Do nothing So, lets talk about the relay option. The big players in the smoke/co business offer purpose built UL listed relays for just this purpose. They are either smoke or Co. Kidde makes these and I suggested them because the OP has Kidde alarms. Using these relays are spec'd like adding another smoke to the circuit so you have to be mindful of the number of smokes on your circuit. These are not used in place of other alerting, but can give you alert type specific actions. Since they are relays you get to chose how to use them. It's actually useful to close a zone and then use the zone alert for programming. https://www.kidde.com/home-safety/en/us/products/fire-safety/safety-accessories/auxiliary-devices/sm120x/ https://www.kidde.com/home-safety/en/us/products/fire-safety/safety-accessories/auxiliary-devices/co120x/ These work by sensing the alarm type on the interconnect wire. I also have Zooz ZEN55 Z-Wave sensors that can alert on Smoke, CO and Heat. I have not tried these on the Core Z-wave as I suspect they will not work. I too think it's useful to program off the alert type. If a smoke alarm is going I disable programming for shutting off water. If Co is alerting ventilation is turned on etc. This is all secondary to actually alerting and alarm company integration. For that I have wireless PowerG smokes and CO's so they work when the power is out. I assume everyone can make their own choices.

Get the Kidde smoke and CO relays and wire them to zones on your panel.

You aren't showing what's possible on the actions side for your integration.

Using SMS in an automated way is going to get harder and harder while they crack down on spammers. I get your desire. Not my intent to imply it's not valid. Using native or walking into using something like Pushover for more things could potentially retrain your brain and allow you to notice things that aren't SMS. I can empathize, but with a half dozen notification sources now and an Android phone I'm now used to using my notifications and in some ways happy they aren't texts. There is more functionality with Pushover than sms. This can be important if you need critical alerts to bypass any sleep or silence mode.

https://www.c4forums.com/search/?&q=fire&quick=1&author=ajd123&search_and_or=or&sortby=relevancy

Try the extract fan driver/experience button.

Lots of moving parts when we have Josh, C4 and Hue. I'm getting control of bulbs from Josh, C4, Hue app and battery powered dimmer controllers and scene switchers. My girls like having the remotes to switch Hue scenes. But as you can guess doing all of this makes each system confused and out of sync with the current state of the bulbs. No bueno. I don't think I can have everything like the family wants so what's the the ideal balance to get Hue to work the best with C4 and Josh? I'd like to use the Daylight Agent in C4 with the Hue lighting, but haven't deployed it yet because it adds a layer of complexity and state challenges that I don't think I can avoid at the moment.

There is another version of this fan with model number FV-0510VSCL1 that has humidity sensing built in. Most ceiling fans are a basic metal box with a junction box and a plug that a motor assembly plugs in. In the past the plug was an actual ungrounded two prong. These days a lot of the nicer fans use a molex or other type plug for the fan assembly. There is a very strong chance you can change your fan motor with the motor from the FV-0510VSCL1 in just a few minutes by popping the cover off, unplugging the light assembly, removing the few screws and unplugging the motor assembly and then the reverse with the other motor and control box. If you go that route you can probably skip a relay. BTW: I like that model line of fan. Low profile and wall mountable. Also good for basement ventilation since they have one that is a constant on at a low adjustable cfm.

Can I assume you just built the house and the bathroom fans are new? Do you know the model of fan and have you removed the cover to see what is there? Humidity switches are only about 1" deep. You should have enough room for Shelly.

Are you opposed to simply using a bathroom fan that has a built in humidity sensor or a switch with humidity sensor built in? Both are readily available and don't require programming.