swissglobalsolutions

Hi C4 Community,

Yesterday I updated the customers C4 system which includes a Core3 and CA-1 to the last OS 3.3.

The main controller updated just fine but the CA-1 was stuck for several hours failing to update and retrying.

At some point I made the mistake to power cycle the CA-1 and now it is stuck at boot.

Now When switching on the CA-1 the LED flashes blue shortly and then is off.
 

I have tried to factory reset it but I'm getting a Factory Reset error.

Is there a way to recover it?

Maybe there is a default Static IP it goes in that I need to use for the Device imager to load a new image on?
 

Help would be appreciated as the Agents are unavailable today and for some reason posting on the dealer forum did not work.

Thanks

Just wanted to say that I'm a big fan of the Bond Bridge and show another use case.
We have used it now in 5 projects and my home and it works great.

We mostly use it for Ceiling fans that are available in our region (Indonesia) and for Somfy Blinds.
In my house I've also used it for things like motorised projector screen and to integrate a very cheap wireless doorbell chime when my mechanical one failed.
Just copied the door bell RF signal and then added it as a generic device.
In Control4 if door bell button gets pressed then the chime goes off immediately. I was very impressed by how fast it is.

Going to make a larger import order for the new Bond Pro devices as I have it spected in all our up coming projects here.

 

4 hours ago, Leighm0 said:

Forcing as in on the Network Switch port settings (setting it to 1Gbit FDX instead of Auto Negotiate)... I'm not testing on Speedtest, I'm looking in the Shield Network settings it shows it is connected at "100 MB", and also on my network switch.  Not trying to do transfers, but I noticed this when I was trying to stream a uncompressed 4K movie from Plex that was trying to push 160MB/s and it was freezing/stuttering, and when I went to troubleshoot it I looked at the port and noticed it was only on 100Mbit.  It was not related to this update (it has been an issue since 8.x) and was wanting to know if anyone else had the same issue and if they knew of a way to fix it...

have you tried a different lan cable?
That can usually happen if the lan cable is damaged so it lowers the speed to 100 mbps which only needs 4 of the 8 cores working of a cat6 cables.
I'm using Unifi gear in my home and the Shield is getting 1000mbps with no issues.

Edit: A few hours later after a few more reboots it suddenly started to work.... I do not know what exactly did it.
Hopefully they will update the driver to take out this randomness.

I've tried that but I still can't get it to work. It does allow me to start MiniDriver apps like Netflix and youtube but I can't navigation to work.
I've tried your suggestion, tired to use the IP instead of SDDP, rebooted it a few times.... any thing else you did which might have helped?

Here is the Debug log when I press the down button:

 

ReceivedFromProxy(): DOWN on binding 5001; Call Function PRX_CMD.DOWN()
.   ROOM_ID:  35
    BEGIN:  815181812
    DEVICE_ID:  36
SEND_COMMAND_FROM_COMMAND_TABLE(), idBinding=5001, command_name=DOWN
GetCommand()
command = <?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?>
<url>/RemoteService/control</url>
<s:Envelope
    xmlns:s="http://schemas.xmlsoap.org/soap/envelope/" s:encodingStyle="http://schemas.xmlsoap.org/soap/encoding/">
    <s:Body>
        <u:KeyEventAction
            xmlns:u="urn:nvidia-com:service:RemoteService:1-0">
            <Keycode>20</Keycode>
        </u:KeyEventAction>
    </s:Body>
</s:Envelope>
PackAndQueueCommand(), command_name = DOWN, command delay set to 150 MILLISECONDS
Starting Timer: SendCommand
Starting Send Timer:  3 for DOWN (timer_interval = 150, timer_units = MILLISECONDS)
ReceivedFromProxy(): END_DOWN on binding 5001; Call Function PRX_CMD.END_DOWN()
.   DURATION:  74
    ROOM_ID:  35
    DEVICE_ID:  36
ReceivedFromProxy: Unhandled command = END_DOWN
Send Timer expired
Send Timer expired - Last Command: DOWN, Send Next Command
DeviceConnectionBase:SendNextCommand

Hi,
I've done some installs with HikVision before but not together with a Control4 system.
I'm curious to know if you have experience with the Hikvision AcuSense line which is supposed to be able to identify if the motion is made by a human or not.

We would like to be able to use that as a trigger to switch on the light on the outside areas of a project we are planing.
Since this villa is in the jungle of Ubud there might be monkeys there and other wild animals so if that system could only trigger the light when it detects a motion event by a human it would be awesome.

Cheers

Another one UP for Sony Android TVs.
We just finished in install for a new family home with 6 Sony TVs and it all works great and was very quick to integrate.
Plus Sony has a good range of mid to high-end TVs.
In this Project we have installed the J90 series plus J80 for the Kids and Guest room.

In my home I put the Room control driver to have the music button cycle through pre-set favorites/Playlists.
Then I set-up a long press on that music button to switch off the music.
You need to use the Timer agent for that.

For my set-up the driver is working well, have not tired the Varietas Driver yet.
But looking at my Homebridge status I do see several times error codes.

Just sharing here so that it might help to improve the driver with future updates.
 

[8/22/2021, 11:06:56 AM] [homebridge-websocket-dti] This plugin generated a warning from the characteristic 'Target Temperature': characteristic value expected valid finite number and received "NaN" (number). See https://git.io/JtMGR for more info.
[8/22/2021, 11:06:56 AM] [homebridge-websocket-dti] This plugin generated a warning from the characteristic 'Target Heating Cooling State': characteristic value expected valid finite number and received "NaN" (number). See https://git.io/JtMGR for more info.
[8/22/2021, 11:06:56 AM] [homebridge-websocket-dti] This plugin generated a warning from the characteristic 'Current Heating Cooling State': characteristic value expected valid finite number and received "NaN" (number). See https://git.io/JtMGR for more info.

10 hours ago, Cyknight said:

Honestly I'd just use an HDMI splitter myself instead of using Zone2. Even a 4K HDR 1-2 splitter is cheap.

Chances are that a power on command is sent to the receiver on using zone 2 in programming (or you wouldn't have sound) - but no counter 'off' is sent. This HAS to be done manually as sending the 'command' to power a receiver on this way doesn't tell the system the device is in fact on (or even needs to be) and needs to be turned off.

 

 

If you are getting a splitter then it might be worth using one with edid copy function.

Sometimes my Nvidia shield loosed Video signal when switching between my Samsung 4k TV and my Benq 4k projector.

Switching inputs to a different source usually fixed the issue. A splitter which would copy the edid from my Samsung TV would probably fix the issue. 

BlackNova also have fancy touch based keypads.

i have personally not used them yet but I‘m planing on getting some for our showroom.

They are wired rs485 keypads and have a gateway which integrates with Control4.

https://blacknova.co

18 hours ago, lippavisual said:

Use the theater switch display driver. Allows for 2 video endpoints and your exact situation. 

I second that I‘ve used that driver a few times and even use it in my home as I also have a TV and Projector set-up in my living room.

You don‘t need to put a fake room with that driver

Looking forward to the square UK/EU style of them.

Might still take a few months though

We have just recently installed two Epson 6050ub and they deliver great quality for the price and have motorised lens which is great if you have a cinemascope screen.
But do not expect the inky blacks and dynamic HDR which you will get with the JVX DLA-NX5. 
 

14 hours ago, Amr said:

Is that depends on the TV or this intelligence is part of the CEC?

Usually it‘s a combination of Both. ARC send the audio signal and CEC is doing the control.

With most SmartTVs from the last 5 years that should work.

But beware that Arc and Cec is not always reliable. Sometimes the connection is lost and then you need to power cycle all and maybe enable CEC again and choose the ARC device in the TV menu. Very user unfriendly and service call to us. 

had same issues with AVRs connected to TVs.

ended up using optical Toslink again because it is just more reliable and for some smartTV IP driver you can even send command to use optical Toslink cable. 

8 hours ago, alanchow said:

The IntesisBox universal model is semi bi-directional.  What this means is that the unit ahs an IR receiver which when mounted in the correct location will detect when the home owner uses the original IR remote to control the HVAC system.  This provides feedback for IntesisBox and as such Control4.

Oh I did not realize that. This is indeed better. I‘ll contact the Singapore distributor to import some test units

I will need to get an IntesisBox but the Aircon I tested it would have only be compatible with the IR version anyway so also only a 1 way control.

The only work around I was able to do is using the Heos Favourites and then use single, double or tripple tap programming on the keypad.
sadly no cycler from the room control driver

12 hours ago, Jeff W said:

The Control4 thermostat has a ton of options and capabilities.  These are just some of the features.

• LED Backlighting
• LED Button Colors
• Humidity
• Remote Sensors 
• Outdoor Sensors 

For the sensors you can have primary, remote(wired), wireless options.  You can tell the thermostat to fall back from remote(wired) to primary(built in) in case it stops detecting the remote sensors.

If you don't like the look of the Control4 thermostats in the room/hallways, you can install an in-wall temperature sensor and install the thermostat in the mech. room.

As for intelligence... You can do a lot with programming, there is a ton of conditions and states to program against. Especially if you have the outdoor temperature sensor installed.  Humidity can be automatic based on the outdoor temperature.  For a lot of people, setting up a schedule works well. 

I am not a fan of cloud based API, so having something local, that's reliable is a win win.  I've replaced more Nest Thermostats than I can count.  

If you're thinking about switching from Nest, I'd recommend the Control4 thermostat.

The only thing I wish the Control4 Thermostats did was display the outdoor temperature on the LCD.

i‘m based in the tropics and in most projects Split Aircon units are used.
I just recently started to test at my place how to deal with IR based Split units using the Z2IO for IR out, temperature sensor and I added a reed manget contact switch so that Control4 gets some feedback if the Aircon is on or off in case my wife uses the standard IR remote of the Aircon.

For the Programming now when the relax light scene in the bedroom is triggered and the Aircon is not on then it will switch on to a set preset.
For the schedule I set the aircon to something like 22c to cool down the bedroom in the evening and then slowly the temperature will go up during the night to around 25-26c.

@msgreenf I‘ve never used a Nest or Ecobee as they are not easily available in Indonesia. 

What smart features would they add when all your doing is controlling an Split aircon units and not heating as well? 
Not needing to think about heating is one of the reasons I moved from Switzerland into the tropics more then 10 years ago

This driver is great. I tested Amazon Alexa voice commands before but it was supper slow. Maybe because we are based in Asia and it uses the cloud to execute the commands. 

Now using this Driver with Homebridge voice commands via Siri are supper snappy.
Very Awesome 
 

Thank you for the quick reply Alan, will try and import a Zappiti for testing.

Great driver, been using it for the last few days with a Daikin Split AC which does not have the possibility to use wired control.
Used a C4-Z2IO for IR output, Temperature Sensor and wired up a magnet contact to have some feedback if the Aircon gets switched on with the Remote VS  a Control4 interface.

 Hoping we will be able to use this driver and the other Daikin Wifi drivers in the future as we want to use it as a selling tool for retrofitting the many Rental Villas in Bali with the main benefit to lower AirCon electricity bills.


 

Very interested in using this driver suite.
Shelly is not available in our region so we are considering to become a reseller of them.
Will need to get a few units for testing first.
 

Hi Alan,
I was wondering if we can make this work with the Nvidia Shield and the Plex Mini Driver as the Shield has now an official IP driver.
Still looking for a good solution to show clients  view of Local content on the touchscreen.

Also considering to get a Zappiti player with the driver but they are a bit difficult to come by where we are based (Bali)
Any Plans on doing a similar Driver for Emby?
Emby has become our Media Server Management of Choice 
Best Regards

In my house I actually have my Xbox One X connected to the TV directly and using ARC mainly to be able to use Variable Refresh rate and so that my Samsung TV engages Game mode.
I ordered a HDMI 2.0 Splitter with edid management and I'll be testing if the splitting will eliminate the audio delay when enabling Atmos for gaming.
Currently I switched Atmos off and the audio delay is much better now.
 

I'm in the same predicament where we have a project right now with two HDMI 2.1 Samsung TVs and PS5s.
We did get the latest Yamaha AVR with HDMI 2.1 support.
But that is not enabled yet and actually if you read some industry articles online regarding AVRs and HDMI 2.1 it looks like they all use the same Panasonic HDMI chipset which is not spect right for HDMI 2.1 Gaming features 

A big Issue with eArc Atmos and gaming feature is that it introduces a slight delay in sound and unlike video where you can easily sync it up with games you do not want to do that as it would introduce additional input lag.

I'm hoping that down the line we will get decent HDMI 2.1 Splitter to work around the Game consoles to feed the signal into the TV and AVR at the same time to get the best of both worlds.