Don Cohen

Yeah, back up for me. I had previously unlinked, so had to relink, but this time it was successful.

I don't know, haven't checked yet, but I would be surprised if it did. My wife would be the main one doing this, and she couldn't care less about this stuff. But you did get me curious, so I'll check if I can remember!

Down for me since yesterday. The usual controller reboot and try again not working.

Thanks, but that is a whole lot of expense and hassle for something very simple. I think if I do switch, I'll have her use the Apple Music on her Android Phone, which provides an option to cast it to the Sony TV in there. I have programing in Control4 to turn on the Sony AVR when this happens, so that should work.

I am pretty sure I know the answer here, based on other posts, but being Android-centric, wanted to make sure. I recently added an ATV 4k to my theater, and just started using it to play Dolby Atmos music. This works with my Tidal subscription using the Tidal App, but I also got an Apple Music trial subscription to try it out there as well. I do not consider myself to have golden ears, or anything even close to that, but the Atmos experience was dramatically better with Apple Music than Tidal, even with the same tracks. And this was after compensating for the lower volume using Tidal. So I'm considering switching from Tidal to Apple Music. We occasionally would want to listen to music in our family room, where we don't have an Apple TV. Nor do we have iPhones or any other Apple device. Currently with Tidal integration, my wife can find what she wants to listen through using the Control4 app, and it's very easy for her to play. I've read about adding a Shairbridge Driver to provide some level of integration, but if I'm understanding this right, it would provide casting access for an Apple device, but it would still not be available within Control4 proper, in the same easy way that Tidal provides. Is that correct, or is there some way to use Apple Music within Control4, similar to how it works with Tidal? Probably not, but wanted to make sure as I try to figure out how I want to proceed. Thanks.

SnapOne Status

Interesting timing. I just got home after a day away, and found the same think. I unlinked, rebooted controller, tried again, but no success. Not sure what the deal is this time. Nothing reported yet on the Snap One side of things in terms of outage or problems. Maybe just started...

I have occasionally run into this in the past (no problems for quite a while), and if I recall right, I had to reboot the Controller, and was then able to reconnect.

I DM'd @fleon as well, since I have 2 of them available. Haven't heard back from him as yet.

I just wanted to finish up and close out this thread, in case it might be useful to someone else down the road. Setting the JVC NZ9 to use EDID B seems to have solved the HDMI instability issues. Since the Arcam, Envy and NZ9 all support HDMI 2.1, I think more was being demanded of my otherwise perfectly functioning HDMI cables. Since EDID B supports up to 4k/HDR/60fps, which is all I need (I'm not a gamer), just using EDID B, rather than trying out new 48gbps cables, seems like a reasonable solution. I also figured out why the web interface became unusable and dysfunctional. When the RS-232 Control4 Driver is being used, there is an Arcam setting where you select this, vs IP, for Control. When this is the case, the web interface basically stops working. You can log in, and it 'seems' like it should be working, but it flat out doesn't (at least it didn't for me). So I temporarily changed it to IP, and the web interface started working perfectly. It is needed to rename Inputs, more easily enter other information, etc., which can't really be done otherwise. Oh, and once it was functioning, it did show the Firmware version on the Engineering page: 1.58/94. Changing Control back to RS-232 would then restore normal function with the RS-232 driver. Many successfully use the IP Driver, and wouldn't have this issue, but I have been advised by a number of people who found the RS-232 Driver to be more stable and reliable. I have no idea, but am sticking with the RS-232 Driver, at least for now. I also finally understood how it is sometimes necessary to tap the 'Amp' button on the remote to access certain functions. Very counter-intuitive and cumbersome, imho. It also makes little sense in a Processor, but I do understand the reason, given the other products in the line. But I shouldn't need the remote much after getting things set up and configured. Knowing these few specific things would have saved me many hours of frustration and trouble-shooting. Hopefully if somebody else encounters any of these, they can find it here, and avoid that. I appreciate all the help provided by others here.

I actually have one (AV Star), but having that in the chain didn't help. I like to connect my Envy and a BenQ Monitor at the same time, so I can check Envy menus easily without turning on the Projector. But that seemed to create problems, rather than solving them. My cables are all passive, not fiberoptic, so the splitter trick that can be helpful in many situations, really doesn't apply. But I do appreciate your suggestions. The only thing that gets me going now is putting the JVC into EDID B. That limits it to HDMI 2.0b, rather than HDMI 2.1. I realize there is no difference with consumer content, disc and streaming, but it was working fine with EDID A before hand. Maybe that was because there was no HDMI 2.1 earlier in the chain, so it 'reverted' to HDMI 2.0b. But now that there is an HDMI 2.1 Processor, that seems to be what trips it up. And perhaps if I changed my cable to a 48gbps one that might help. But as I don't see practical benefit, and running it would be a hassle, I probably won't. Thanks!

I have a JVC NZ9 and madVR Envy Extreme. Everything was fine with the prior Marantz SR7010. The Cable had supported everything - 4k/HDR @ 60fps when needed. The only thing that has changed is the processor. The Marantz was HDMI 2.0b, while the Arcam is HDMI 2.1. I don't need or want HDMI 2.1, but everything has it now. I do a lot of work with support for the madVR Envy, and when there is a processor with HDMI 2.1, things are much less stable.

I have, and thanks for the suggestion. @BY96 was kind and generous enough to give me his phone number, and we spoke for a while last night. One thing that was very helpful was his suggesting to use the Arcam's interface directly on its display, rather than through the web interface. With that, I was able to do a full factory reset, and was able to make most of the settings adjustments there. We made some changes that potentially could improve HDMI communications in my theater. But even after that, the web interface was basically useless. I cleared my browser cache, tried a different browser, but the result was the same. It just didn't seem to properly contact. Whether this will allow an improvement in HDMI connection remains to be seen. That is today's task.

Are they available on weekends too? I posted at AVS - I figured I had nothing to lose, so I asked it to do a Factory Reset. Figured I'd just start clean. No big surprise, but it didn't do anything. All of the speaker selections were still there (which they weren't when I first turned it on this morning. I'm pretty fed up. I've been fighting this dang thing all day long!!

Yeah I'm going to head over there now. This thing is really flakey - I've changed settings using the web interface, and they simply don't stick. Region was set to US when I first started it up, and it changed on its own to Europe. And that HDMI Bypass setting won't stick either. And I've looked everything, including that Engineering page, and just do not see the firmware version listed.

Thanks. I'm there big-time. I'm 'DLCPhoto' there, and it seems I spend half my life there!!

I believe you, but that's what I found. I tested Tidal, and got no sound at all until I changed that. I'm switching to the RS-232 Driver now, and see if that will help this funkiness.

And further, from the Driver documentation: . In order to enable standby mode functionality, press the menu key on the front panel for more than 4 seconds to bring up the extended front panel menu, and change the standby mode to "manual" and Under Menu > HDMI Settings set "HDMI Bypass and IP" to "On". Weirdly, I was unable to get sound when playing Tidal through my EA-3. It wasn't until I changed that HDMI Bypass and IP setting from On to "Low Power" (whatever that is?!) - then it stared playing just fine. Hopefully I'll get it all sorted out, but off to a very bumpy start. And then having my brand new ATI AT528NC 8-channel Class D Amp not put out any sound at all was just icing on the cake. It doesn't seem to be fully powering on according to how the manual describes it. Many, what a day!

I was wondering about that 'Amp' button. I tapped it, and now the Power Button works. A bit odd, but ok. I am also surprised the web interface isn't accessible when the unit is in Standby. I don't know if this is the firmware version, but it shows Device version: 0.100.1585.0x40bf934. I'm not seeing anything else so far. How do you like it overall? It's also creating some HDMI headaches with my madVR Envy and JVC NZ9. Completely stable with my prior Marantz SR7010. Still sorting that out...

Many thanks for this. I don't recall the firmware number, but it's brand new, and no updates were found, so I'm probably on 1.60. I did start with SDDP/IP before I got the advice about RS-232, but it has been a bit unstable. Sometimes it doesn't turn on with the room. And weirdly the Arcam Remote's power button has no effect. Thanks for the offer on the older firmware - I'm not there yet, but may get there if things don't improve.

That did it - rookie mistake!! Thanks for the incredibly quick response. SDDP brings in the IP Driver - are there any reasons to use the Serial Driver instead?

I'm replacing my Marantz SR7010, where I used an RS-232 Driver, with an Arcam AV41 Processor, with both RS-232 and IP Drivers available. I installed and physically connected it, and my Router shows the unit's IP Address (where I then created an IP reservation). I turned it on, and it sends a signal to my display, so it is working. I downloaded the current Control4 Drivers from Arcam's website, and did a copy/paste of both the AVR41 Serial and IP drivers to the appropriate Drivers Documents folder, to have a look at both. When I tried to add the driver to my theater room, it starts for a second, then I get this: Ok, so I thought maybe I needed to do it with SDDP. I used the web interface for the Arcam, and found the setting in the Engineering tab to turn on Control4 SDDP, and have it Send the signal. It then became available as a Discovered Driver. However when I double-click it to add the Driver, I still get the same error message. I'm sure I'm missing something obvious. I restarted Composer Pro, but no change. What am I doing wrong?

I'm not 100% certain but I'm pretty sure I've had a disconnect in the last few months. But it is definitely better than it used to be. I'll have to look at that Smart Recovery function, since I don't know what that is, or how I would benefit from it.

I don't disagree. I guess for my relatively simple needs, I have what I need in the Aprilaire thermostats, and perhaps am not leveraging the Ecobee's capabilities as much as I might be able to. The sporadic and unpredictable loss of connectivity is the main thing that bugs me with the Ecobee. I've had these about 4 years, with quite a few occurrences over that time period (probably 10 to 20 total?). With Aprilaire, I've had 2 incidents only, in only one of them, where I lost connectivity, and the only thing to bring it back was removing the thermostat and popping its batteries to reset it.

For whatever it's worth, I have 2 Aprilaire C4 thermostats downstairs, and an Ecobee upstairs. In terms of reliability, I much prefer the Control4 one. The Ecobee sporadically loses its Control4 link, requiring repairing them, which is a bit of a pain. It happens less frequently now than a year or so ago, but it still happens. The Ecobee is also a bit more challenging to precisely program with Control4, which doesn't seem to be able to access all of the settings configured in the Ecobee itself. Oh, and I can use Alexa to make voice adjustments in the Aprilaire thermostats as well, so I don't see an Ecobee advantage there. I do prefer the 'look' of the Ecobee, but will take function over appearance any day.