Flash2k6

Any idea when Control4 is going to update their Apple TV driver to support the MRP protocol so we can go back to IP based controls instead of using IR for IOS13? Even with the Apple Bridge and the latest IP driver, it still doesn't work. Only way I can get it working currently is via IR or via a third party driver, but I'd prefer the original native C4 driver.

You laughed and tried to discredit factual information. You linked worthless websites that don’t contain all the facts or proper representation of how wireless channels work nor do they represent environment conditions or configurations. You provided no insight or knowledge on UniFi or wireless configuration or setups. You provided no experience or data to your argument. You just flat said no to my claim. Because you have displayed no factual knowledge of the subject, that is the very definition of ignorance. The bottom line is WiFi with a proper channel balance and MIMO setup can absolutely do Gig speed, the original poster‘s issue isn’t a hardware capability issue, it’s a configuration, client device, and/or environment issue. If you’re going to try and be helpful, then actually be helpful instead of bringing worthless dribble to the thread or insulting or discrediting someone who actually knows what they’re talking about who’s installed multiple live UniFi environments operating well above the “unrealistic expectations” of 500Mbit/s over WiFi per client. And no, the stereo wattage didn’t go over my head, I didn’t comment on that post did I? I got your joke, I commented on your follow up post trying to discredit my actual environment and what WiFi is capable of, because you are wrong. I can provide data all day long that shows no issues pushing 900+Mbps over WiFi on a single client in my house using the same gear the original poster is using, supporting that he needs to tune his network and it can absolutely do more than 200Mbps. Throwing a Speedtest up was just a quick way that is relatable to people showing that WiFi can absolutely go faster than what was highlighted in this thread. If you want additional data, here is a link to a third party professional independent tester showing all of the Unifi AP models along the bottom tabs, and all of the firmware versions and clients he uses to test throughput. As you can see, 2 channel MIMO clients easily break beyond 500Mbps. If you have a 3 or 4 channel MIMO client you can reach Gig level speeds which is exactly how I do it in my setup. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Kk-D5TNcm_-olg0kklhbDVO7GhgIJUIH356rq9mVse8/edit#gid=1983785337 Educate yourself before you make foolish comments. Unifi APs can be very high performance if setup correctly, but most people just install them out of the box and wonder why they're only getting 100-300Mbps and then cry foul, when in reality it's just default or poor configurations.

With all due respect, you are also ignorant... I don't have my test iPerf setup running any longer so to illustrate my point here's a screenshot from my iPhone Xs on WiFi I took just now, and for good measure I waited a little over 10 minutes and did it again just to reinforce the point of consistency. Note: I have 600Mbps service from my provider, so I can't go above that on my Speedtest, but I've iPerf'ed my Wifi from every room in my house across my LAN and there isn't a single room in my house I get less than 800Mbps on WiFi to the server in my network room. In my more open rooms closer to the APs with less obstruction, I can get 930-940Mbps no problem. Tell me again how it's not realistic to expect 500Mbps on Wifi? I'd recommend reading up on how channels and channel bonding works, checking your configuration and ensuring you have the right kind of Wifi card for your device to maximize the speed. Configuration matters.

This is an ignorant response, I achieve 800-900Mbps on my UniFi WiFi without issues all day. It comes down to proper configuration, channel availability (do you live in an apartment, or a house where you're not being smashed by 10 other WiFi signals in your channel band), and having the proper WiFi adapter for your PC (this is the most commonly overlooked one, know what product you have and its capabilities, many Wifi adapters are single channel, if you don't have a multi-channel card that supports MIMO then you will be limited to the max speed of a single channel). The AC-Pro can do Gig no problem over WiFi, the irony is that the unit itself has 1300Mbps of capacity from a wireless perspective, but the NIC uplink is only Gig, so no matter what you do you'll never get over Gig of throughput.

Hey chopedogg, that's actually the only setting I hadn't tried. I just tried, and that fixed it... thank you so much. I beat my head against this problem for a few hours and never thought to try that because I don't have any splitters or anything else in the system so it didn't even occur to me. Everything is working great now, thanks again!

Yah, 2.25 firmware, Driver version 325. -F

I'm having issues with my C4-LU1082 HDMI Matrix switcher. I have the same 4K TV in all rooms, they are brand new 2019 OLEDs and support every format out there today. There are NO 1080 devices anywhere. I have 4 sources. 1) Roku Ultra 4K 2) Apple TV 4K 3) XFinity 4K DVR 4) Chromecast Ultra 4K The device has been reset and calibrated, every device works correctly except the Roku 4K, my dealer is a little perplexed as well on how to fix it. The issue is the Roku auto-detects correctly to 4K UHD 30hz, however it only negotiates at HDCP 1.4. I've got 48Gbs HDMI cables everywhere. If I plug the Roku directly into the TV (using the same cable) it works fine, HDCP 2.2 comes up, 4K UHD at 30hz or 60hz is fine. But no matter what combo of settings I do, I can't get the Roku to go above HDCP 1.4 when going through the switcher even though it DOES run at 4K resolution wise, the menus show it at 4K, the screen is clearly in 4K but content fails because it thinks its at HDCP 1.4. If anyone has any insight here, I'd appreciate it. I also tried force setting the audio to PCM and force setting the device to 4K/30hz/UHD and it does take it but still shows HDCP 1.4 and content won't work and throws the Roku HDCP error screen anytime I try to play 4K content. It's only the Roku that's doing this. The Apple TV, Xfinity, and Chromecast are all working beautiful at 4K/HDR/30Hz or 4K/60 non-HDR, flawless across the board. If anyone has a Roku running on an LU1082 or any of the LU10XX series HDMI matrix switchers, and can successfully run HDCP 2.2 with 4K/60 or 4K/30/HDR I would really love to know the settings on the device. Are you using auto-lock, are you using the advanced EDID groups? What steps did you take to reset/re-calibrate? Did certain devices have to be on/off during that time? We're stumped on how to fix this... -F