Control4Savant

Anyone have any want for a Binary Component 8x8 Matrix Switch with Analog and Digital Audio? It would likely be a replacement for a pre existing install.  Unit and PS. Give me an offer... 

I have a bag of white ones.. let me look and get back to you. 

I am open reasonable to offers. 

Both 100% working and in good condition. 

EA3 3.0 w/ power cord and antennas 

EA1 2.10.6  or 3.0 w/ power cord and antennas

20 hours ago, blub said:

Great, I just did buy some....

This started years ago... I think you should be ok. 

1 hour ago, JSTRONG said:

I have 10 T3 panels and only 1 has failed in 2 years. I guess you got a bad batch there. Have you checked with your control4 dealer to check on warranty and if out of warranty, what your options are? There are always options

 

All of the Control4 touch screens have been a struggle... the T3 is unfortunately no different.  This was acknowledged issue by Control4. It's more than a bad batch and unfortunately it usually comes after a few years right about the time the warranty is up. Let's hope yours all stay working. I would work with the your dealer. That is what they SHOULD be there for.... 

3 hours ago, lippavisual said:

Because I like my wiring to look good in a rack.

It's the same amount of wires except you are adding additional and unnecessary splices and jumpers. 

6 hours ago, lippavisual said:

the cameras provide a H.264 stream that can be recorded on any NVR solution.  Does not have to be Lilin, not sure where you got that info.

Also, never in my life have I seen anyone, including consumers, use a power supply for an IP camera.  Practically, why you don’t get a power supply in the box to begin with.

 The fact that "you have never in your life" seen someone use a 12v power supply for IP surveillance show how little experience you must have. You also clearly have no idea what a IP protocol is or why it is significant for an NVR versus Onvif compliance . 

23 hours ago, lippavisual said:

4 core speaker wire to the first left terminal and another 4 core to the first right terminal.  Splice a 16/2 or other cable to the remaining pair on each 4 core cable and terminate to the second Speakers left and right inputs respectively  

With most 8 ohm speakers, this will net you a 4 ohm load on each channel at the amp.  Just make sure your amp can handle it. Most do. 

Why? Run a 16/4 to each DVC speaker and connect to L and R. Make the "joint" connection at the amp and skip additional wires and connection points. 

Do a comparison, it's not much "logic"... and just as many systems have stereo options as 70v.  Go to a Costal Source demo for a good example. 

On 4/30/2020 at 10:03 PM, NewHouse More Questions said:

Mujtaba - Thanks.

I didn't intend for this to become an endless list of good or bad.  So here's my thoughts of things:

 

Necessary:

1.  Lighting - preferably LED or other low energy.  

2. In-house audio (speakers, amplifiers)

3. Sonos (in my opinion, best way to integrate Apple Music - which is a must)

4. Television (actual TV)

5. Networked media aggregator (appleTv would be my preferred, but willing to listen to other opinions)

6. Garage door

7. Home Security

8. Home Surveillance (external cameras)

9. Doorbell that isn't a "door station"

10. Temperature control

11. Ceiling fans

 

Nice Addition:

1. Fireplace control for Isokern

2. POE access control

 

Does that help?

Necessary:

1.  Lighting - preferably LED or other low energy. - Use Control4, Caseta or the combination 

2. In-house audio (speakers, amplifiers) - Use a C4 matrix, speakers and amps depending on cost and how many zones you need but don't feel the need to buy C4 brand (Triad ).

3. Sonos (in my opinion, best way to integrate Apple Music - which is a must) - Sonos is crap. Are you averse to Airplay? 

4. Television (actual TV) - Sony, Samsung or OLED LG are all good. 

5. Networked media aggregator (appleTv would be my preferred, but willing to listen to other opinions) Apple TV is the best streamer. Some people frown at the Homekit setup IP integration they now use for automation systems but its simple. You can also use a normal IR driver (BTW... IR is still HEAVILY used in the industry across the board. Its not an antiquated control option and can be more reliable than other options)

6. Garage door - There are posts for this, besides could access you would need an additional garage door remote for control and a sensor kit (magnet or tilt) 

7. Home Security - DSC or Elk 

8. Home Surveillance (external cameras) - 310 Lumas 

9. Doorbell that isn't a "door station"  - Why? If you want door lock access but don't want wireless options, why not use a keypad DS2 with a 12v door strike? (BTW, majority of automated door locks installed are wireless. The batteries last fine.)

10. Temperature control - Ecobee with remote sensors. The C4 therm is unnecessary and very limited form an end user standpoint. 

11. Ceiling fans - Any fan with the removed RF module will work if you don't have a specific driver fan model. Wire it hot and use a C4 fan speed controller. 

Nice Addition:

1. Fireplace control for Isokern - Control4 fireplace driver (free) with wired or RF relay connection. 

2. POE access control - POE device reset? Network config?   Door access?  not sure what you mean... 

On 5/5/2020 at 3:24 PM, nightfire said:

Yes the amp is the C4-8AMP1-B

if I program "when audio is sensed on input 1 turn on both sets of speakers with the Selected Audio Device being the Sky box" wouldn't this bring on the additional zone if the sky was selected in another room of the house tho ?

I was trying not to connect the 4 speakers to 2 channels as later an extension is being added to the kitchen and I was then going to ad the additional speakers to the channels rather than running additional speaker wire back to the amp

You can program the system for the 4zone amp to connect a certain input source to an output source. Trigger that command based on a room/zone audio or video selection change and put the specific source as a condition before enabling. You can also add disconnect programming for when the zone is powered off.  I don't know depth about the HDAnywhere video matrix but if you can eliminate HDMI audio output from the matrix that would solve the extra volume ramping on the kitchen TV.. or buy a Roku and distribute that. 

FXL is baller stuff, you cant go wrong. A lot of the "pro stuff" is pretty solid..but half of the battle with landscape lighting and outdoor spaces is execution..and this is done sometimes half spiritedly by landscapers or inexperienced designers. You can actually buy lighting design books to get a better understanding. 

Outdoor lighting system doesn't involve much but a good lighting LV transformer, silicone wire connectors and direct burial 2 wire connected to a 110v C4 light switch or HV relay.  

The design for outdoor speakers also matters. Good outdoor sound systems are usually about coverage. Good coverage isn't 2 6-inch wall mounted patio speakers at 80% volume for the whole backyard. A variety of smaller aperture speakers at lower volume create a much more clear and enjoyable listening environment. "Rock" speakers usually look and sound cheap. Good speakers should imitate as possible landscape lighting or be aesthetically pleasing.  You also have to consider a typical 8ohm (stereo) setup to a 70v system. 70v can have more speakers without adding amplification but quality is affected.

5 hours ago, lippavisual said:

If you're referring to the Pakedge cameras, they are decently priced and quality seems to be fine.  They need POE Ethernet.

They work just like any other camera and can be added to many manufacturers NVR's

They do not need POE, they are capable of 12v DC but its unlikely a better option if you are running wires...  Pakedge are Lilin branded cameras and prefer their NVRs which don't have integrated switches. Depending on the severalty of your home network, this is a potential security flaw. Could order Luma which is rebranded Hikvison. They all have the same level of "risk" and involve good network/credential practices if you are worried about that sort of thing. If you are capable of your own installation I would purchase Hikvision on your own and save a few bucks, install and get it managed on your own with its native app and have the dealer integrate into the system after the fact. 

Also... remember auxiliary switches have no intelligence to them so you never add them to the project or "ID" them 

4 hours ago, nate4AU said:

Thanks. This gives me an idea of how many switches will need replacing before I take the idea to my dealer. 

Follow-up (stupid) question: so what happens to all these automated lights if the system goes down for some reason? Do you lose the ability to turn on your lights until the problem gets fixed? My wife really loves our home automation WHEN IT WORKS. But on the rare events that it's down, she loses her patience quite quickly  

Yes, they will work. Even "centralized" lighting should have this failsafe. The only exception should be is if defective or disabled in composer. 

17 hours ago, zaphod said:

Can you just attach an electric strike to the relay on a controller?  

Yes, but it makes more sense to run directly to the DS2. Especially is the Control4 system goes offline...stored access codes will function the strike as a stand alone system. 

er.... I just resurrected a 5 month old thread because my mind seems to have shut down. Someone asked an additional question which was valid. Regardless, please ignore.

On 11/21/2019 at 1:51 PM, SMHarman said:

No, the 800 will not run OSD but that was not the question..

Will OS3 with HC800 using EA1s for On screen Displays run fast enough..

Was the question.

Sent from my E6603 using Tapatalk
 

Odd. Seems like that was EXACTLY the question that he just asked.

30 minutes ago, Tokead said:

You can pick up an 800 for around $100. No truck role required if able to move some wires. Move the IR to the new controller, plug it in. Hire a dealer from here who can remote in and maybe another $100-200 or so to move project over and update to last 2.x.x version. Gets them mobile license too. Depends on how long they want to continue having a trouble free project 

You are assuming all parts of his project are compatible with whatever version of 2OS...also is this his main CPU? Do we have a backup? Is this the ZB server for lots of lighting? Why spend $100+ on a still out of date unit that may cause its own problems. HC800s are far from perfect or rocket performers. 

2 hours ago, drmark12pa said:

They are some old Advent bookshelf speakers.... Still sound good however.  I don't mind spending a little extra if I ever move the zone to somewhere I would need to reach easier as well.  Control4 keeps coming out with so many things it's hard to keep up so this was a new one for me that they had this ability to have a zone added.

You won't be sorry with the performance, and the processing quality is better from the Triad One versus the 800...

IDK... Control4 has a pretty limited product lineup IMO. Enjoy. 

9 hours ago, Terry Mikulak said:

Good day, it appears my 300-HC controller requires a power supply replacement according to the Control 4 technician I spoke with on the telephone. He advised if I could purchase a used one and swap out the power supply it would solve my problem and would avoid a Control 4 technician having to attend to program a new controller. My first question is has anyone in the forum tried this and question two is where would I find a used one in good working order. Most retailers want to sell you a new one. Any information would be helpful, thanks, Terry in Canada 

He doesn't want to spend money on programming or a professional truck roll so an HC800, ea3 etc are all going to require more than he is able to accomplish. 

Yes, I have done this countless times. I would get a used working 300 from here or ebay and do the direct swap. There are exposed screws on the bottom of the 300. There are also 4 that are inside the feet (rubber peals off). The power supply is around 2"x4" and has two clips that should be directly swappable. Unscrew the working PS and replace/ reconnect. I would plug it in and test (power and boot) before putting the shell back together. You can also pull a PS from C4-16S2- 2nd gen. (round face) audio matrix, it is the same. 

On 4/12/2020 at 3:45 PM, chopedogg88 said:

@tdougray $4k?  is that Canadian?

MSRPs are:

Triad 8x8 = $1320

Triad 8-zone power amp = $1700

So, $3020 at MSRP (minus any discounting...)

Matrix intelligence is important...but there is no reason to purchase an 16ch amp at $1700 without a need. Even a 12ch Episode amp is a bit over $1k if you want to stay with-in the "circle"

48 minutes ago, Robert Robran said:

Is it just me or is OS3 really slow to connect? More so remote but still even local takes forever sometimes. Anyone have any suggestions on how to speed this up? 

What is your main controller? How large is your system? How advanced is your network? 

13 minutes ago, drmark12pa said:

The Sony is from 1990.... one channel is a bit rough at times so needs to be tossed.  I'm sure I could have my dealer add a driver but not really worth it at this point.

His point is still important. If you are budget sensitive like most of us are and (IF) physically connecting RCAs to a free hc800 output is possible, just purchase an amp of whatever level and save yourself $100's. The HC800 output can control your volume for that zone. What type of speakers are you trying to power?