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Need a 8x8 hdmi matrix w/3d and C4 drivers any suggestions?


jeff2908

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Ugh shinybow....

Also not sure why he would need the DA version of Atlona?

Check also:

Avenview (I'll have a driver if none is public available yet)

JAP/Blackwire (think the 3d enabled firmware is officially released now)

Snap/Binary (haven't used it in 3D)

Please remember that on any current switch that I know of, mixing and matching 3d and non-3d displays is a bit of a gamble. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't (Had issues with the Atlona on this too, memory presets or not.)

I've several 3d setups, using both options above, that work perfectly - but they are ALL 3d displays.

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Thanks guys! The Atlona is approx double what I was looking to spend. How about the Avenview SW-HDM3D-C5 8x8, or the CE Labs HSW88C Plus 8x8? Even came across this one http://www.hdtvsupply.com/8x8-matrix-hdmi-switch-cat5.html?gclid=CJaRncLo57ICFQs5nAod0TkA7w . More in the budget and seems capacle of the job. Just not sure about drivers or real world experience.

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As I mentioned, the Avenview has worked well so far. Obviously these are more step in models, and therefor potentially less solid, but those I've installed have given little to no grief.

I'll have a serial driver if you end up getting it.

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As I mentioned, the Avenview has worked well so far. Obviously these are more step in models, and therefor potentially less solid, but those I've installed have given little to no grief.

I'll have a serial driver if you end up getting it.

That Avenview seems like a sweet piece...I'll have to see if anyone I have a relationship with sells them. I had worked out a way to just stick with my component distribution a little longer, but that may just be the ticket.

Couple of questions though. Does it use HDBaseT? If not, how susceptible is it to EMI? EDID settings? I'd be curious to hear what troubles or issues you may have had with it. You said "little" grief...just curious what that means.

Also, do the baluns require power on the TV/Display end?

Thanks in advance.

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JAP 2G+ is especially good if your sources aren't centralized, or goofy number of sources vs end-points, but it is in a whole different price class. Plus your switches need to be a certain type.

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As I mentioned' date=' the Avenview has worked well so far. Obviously these are more step in models, and therefor potentially less solid, but those I've installed have given little to no grief.

I'll have a serial driver if you end up getting it.[/quote']

That Avenview seems like a sweet piece...I'll have to see if anyone I have a relationship with sells them. I had worked out a way to just stick with my component distribution a little longer, but that may just be the ticket.

Couple of questions though. Does it use HDBaseT? If not, how susceptible is it to EMI? EDID settings? I'd be curious to hear what troubles or issues you may have had with it. You said "little" grief...just curious what that means.

Also, do the baluns require power on the TV/Display end?

Thanks in advance.

HDBASET - I honestly am not 100% sure - I suspect it is, but they're doing something proprietary with there stuff and are a bit close-lipped when asked that question. Yet to open one up and dig myself ;)

Interference wise I've yet to have an issue - including in one location that I was expecting some as all wires are run in tubing right along electrical wires (no not my wiring job).

Grief has been limited to a burned out balun - make sure you don't mix the wires (see below) and getting powersupplies (again, see below), dealing with 3D and non 3d displays on same switch (fixed using EDID settings) and dealing with some older TVs and sources (resolution compatibility, issue was arguably not the switch at all).

Beyond that - no more issues than are normally associated with HDMI - hard time getting edid on oddball devices, xbox weird issue in combination with a receiver and a projector. You know, the unexplainable stuff. Think that on most of these the switch wasn't the real issue so much as it just didn't "take care" of some of the problems others cause - things I also see on atlona switches (that I continue to have a bad experience with by the way), Hydra, Binary etc.

Power for baluns - can be done two ways, either via a powersupply (one of the 2 uses a screw-on type, not sure if 8x8 or 4x4) at the TV OR by using a second cat cable to supply power direct from the switch 0 second cat also tranfers IR and allows switching sources from a push-button on the balun.

Note that powersupplies are do NOT come with the switch and baluns (this comes as one piece).

EDID are auto handeld and works well enough in most situations, but manual learnig is supported as well.

I'm ALWAYS very hesitant using any "better priced" HDMI solution - but so far so good on these.

JAP/Blackwire still stands as the best solution out there and the only one I would suggest off-hand as a switch I would like to use. But it comes at a price.

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