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HDMI switcher with digital out and balun


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Hi all,

My dealer has now folded so I can t ask him any more technical questions.

Not,sure if another dealer can take over my current set up and doesn't t feel right to ask them For support.

So I thought I d come here.

I have three zones to control, each has it s own hc, being 250,200 and 300 and different functions/needs.

Hc 300 is In The guest quarters, hc 200 in theatre room and 250 in family room.

My issue lies with the family room. I want to watch TV, few movies when theatre is busy and above all listen to music thru quality 2 ch dac, amp, speakers.

I am looking for a hassle fee hdmi switch that works well with c4, either controlled via ip, serial or IR.IT NEEDS to have digital out to the dac as strictly 2 channel.

So far I am looking at the dvdo matrix6,so any other suggestions would be great.

Secondly, All my equipment is in a av cabinet in a central room, so from there to the family room, I have only run 2 x cat 6, one being for the IR or serial control of the tv and the other for hdmi over cat6.

Which balun, hdmi over cat6 is best, as in trouble free. I looked up the web, and though all proclaim high standards and perfect picture up to 300 feet, the price varies greatly, so if anybody can help me decide which one is the easiest to set up, works all the time and trouble free, I d be really glad.

Thirdly, my wife listen a lot to spotify, but at the moment, I have to go back to the computer to choose what I want then press play.

I am hoping that Tunein would solve the issue of going back and forth. Trouble is, like I said earlier, my dealer folded. This is how I found out actually, as I really wanted Tunein installed, I kept on ringing, but as they were not answering I went there directly, to discover that they are no longer trading.

Is tunein, really good and compete with SPOTIFY.

Alternatively , how could I get spotify to show up on my TV and control it via the sr 250 remote?

I know it s a lot of questions, but my hands are tied unfortunately.

Will see if any other dealers want to take over.

Regards

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Yes, another dealer can take over and complete/modify your system - In a Control4 system this is not blocked. It only really depends on the dealer whether they WANT to or not.

 

TuneIn is not something I'd really consider an ALTERNATIVE for Spotify. It's a great service - but it is essentially streaming 'terrestrial radio'.

Spotify integration is currently best done via Sonos integration.

 

Video switch wise - there's lots of options, question is why do you need HDMI to digital out? As in coax/optical? You mention it needs 2channel - stereo analog is weasier to achieve. The big issue doing this is if you want SURROUND sound sent to other sources over HDMI (dolby/DTS). That severely limits your options (and raises your price). If you're sending 2 channel pcm it will likely make little difference. Alternatively, assuming this is going to a receiver, you could use two outputs on a switch to allow sending separate HDMI signals to receiver and TV (assuming the receiver/amp has HDMI in).

C4's own HDMI matrix may be one of your better options, it can also send network, IR and serial over the same one cable (this is not unique as such mind you) over a single CAT cable if wiring is limited. It's strangth here may be the ability to dynamically lock inputs allowing a mix if 2ch PCM and full surround encoding to coexist.

 

This one sounds like a fairly major change - doing so remotely by a dealer from Phoenix US to Brisbane Australia is likely not the best bet. Either investigate a new dealer locally, or perhaps try to contact AK1 on these forums - he operates out of Melbourne as well as Vancouver - hardly around the corner of course, but a heck of a lot closer and he may know some alternative dealers to approach he may have worked with.

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Hi cyknight,

Thanks for the reply and advice.

I will loom up the c4 own matrix/switch but I am trying to keep it simple so may be don t really need a matrix but a simple reliable switch.

The reason I need a switcher with optical/coax out is that for the family room, I only want 2 channel and beleive no receiver or av pre amp can give me what I am looking for, in terms of sound quality unless I spend silly money and get something like arcam, anthem,

Classe.

Family room is only for watching TV, news, occasional Apple tv when kids are in theatre room, but above all it s where I play misic all day long from Friday after work until Monday.... so this is what I optical/coax out to be able to send it to the 2 channel dac/pre.

When we were building the house, I ran my cat 6 cables pretty much everywhere and every room.

As the builder was running being, he only advised me at the last minute that I had a few days to run the cables before sheeting, so in my rush, I only ran 2 cat 6 to the family room, one being for the hdmi over cat 6, and one for control4 command ( either serial, IR or ip).

There s so many option and difference in prices for hdmi over cat6.

I really want a good one and one that works from the get go.

Atolona have a few, but kind of expensive, however, I ve learnt long time ago that you get what you pay for.

Anyway, thanks a lot for all the info.

Will keep looking and take on your advice.

Regards

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Forgot to ask,

In the theatre room, I ran both a cat6 and 12 core to the projector.

Can I use the 12 core for wiring either serial or IR or needs the be cat6?

Is there a difference between a 12 core and cat6 in terms of how it carries the signal?

Regards

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pm sent

An ambitious PM. The OP is in Brisbane, Australia. There are some good dealers in Australia. Of course I have a vested interest since my partner Dave operates Coolabode Australia. I will PM you Dave's Melbourne mobile. For a reference check with Wappinghigh here.

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An ambitious PM. The OP is in Brisbane, Australia. There are some good dealers in Australia. Of course I have a vested interest since my partner Dave operates Coolabode Australia. I will PM you Dave's Melbourne mobile. For a reference check with Wappinghigh here.

 

Lol, I think I put that a bit nicer :P

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Lol, I think I put that a bit nicer :P

 

And I thought I was being helpful at least by Australian standards but perhaps not by Canadian  :o.  And thanks for the mention.

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Hi guys,

Just a quick question.

On some of my devices I have both IR in and serial/rs232.

I am wondering what is the difference between using the 3.5mm IR in vs placing an IR sensor on the front?

Also, is is better to use IR in 3.5mm jack or serial?

What would give me the more reliable connection.

At the moment is a bit hit and miss with my IR sensors in front of devices.

The dealer just put sensors on everything though some have serial. Actually, ip on my yamaha rxa 2020 works flawlessly, but that s the only ip controlled devices.

Why can t Apple tv be controlled by ip as I m able to access all of them thru the Apple remote app on my iPad. Is it different to ip control?

Regards

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^ Hi there.

 

There are often multiple drivers in Control4 for the same piece of gear. IR, Serial and even IP for the same device. 

 

You have to understand a bit of history here.

 

Drivers can be certified or not. Some are actually made by the dealers themselves. Partic some IR ones.

 

Some are sold. Most are free. 

 

It just depends. But understand the user never actually "owns" the driver. If you buy it, you pay for a License to use it. And these conditions can change. Search around here and you will learn about this. Got it? 

 

In general Serial drivers are very robust. Serial control has been around like IR for ages, and I guess is being taken over by IP.

 

But IP has the problem of network dependency (for obvious reasons). However IP drivers are very flexible and don't require dealer wiring etc.. just network the device and you are good to go to get the dealer to add the driver. Could be done remotely.

 

Problem with all this is it's a bit hit and miss. You really need to be standing there in front of the device to check the driver does what you want. 

 

The reason the Apple TV can't be controlled via IP is Apple locked this down. The Apple TV Mk1 could have, but they removed this capability with the pucks.... 

 

So IR still remains the best (and only) way to control an AppleTV via a HA platform like Control4

 

Remember Apple is now pretty much in competition with Control4 for the HA space.. (search here to find out about this)

 

Cheers and take AK1's advice and call Dave :)

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Hi all,

Thirdly, my wife listen a lot to spotify, but at the moment, I have to go back to the computer to choose what I want then press play.

I am hoping that Tunein would solve the issue of going back and forth. Trouble is, like I said earlier, my dealer folded. This is how I found out actually, as I really wanted Tunein installed, I kept on ringing, but as they were not answering I went there directly, to discover that they are no longer trading.

Is tunein, really good and compete with SPOTIFY.

Alternatively , how could I get spotify to show up on my TV and control it via the sr 250 remote?

 

Search my posts on Spotify. Like you our house is a Spotify house. 

 

You gotta understand the history of Spotify as well.

 

Being based in Scandinavia it's not a US product.

 

Sure it's now in the US big time, but some of the companies are struggling to keep up with integration of this great service. 

 

But It's also a competitor to Apple and Sonos.. 

 

The following is IMHO: Control4 has spent alot of time and effort recently integrating Sonos. Initially they kinda ignored it. Because they had their own multiroom music setup (still do) But Sonos just took the world by storm and customers demanded it. So EV was born. These guys developed a great driver. Control4 recently purchased Extra Vegetables (pretty much for the Sonos driver we are all surmising.. but this is "aledgedly" and not confirmed by the company)  :) But it was a great purchase the EV one by Control4. Rightly so (because Sonos has been the mainstay of multiroom networked audio for so long now) They got it for nix. :)

 

I asked around here as to why the WMB (wireless music bridge) couldn't just have Spotify Connect integrated as well as airplay and got a bit of a luke warm response..

 

Ryder cup stuff perhaps?? Who really knows?

 

Get my drift? ;)

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Like Cyk says, The best way to use Spotify with Control4 right now is via Sonos. But the Spotify integration within Sonos sucks. This is not Control4's issue but..

 

ie There is no such thing as "Pandonos" in Control4 with Spotify. No "Spotonos"... 

 

Alternatively buy a hifi product or receiver with Spotify Connect embedded. And Control this with Control4.

 

There are tons of these hitting the market now. But you need to get one Spotify Connect certified (not just "Spotify" certified) 

 

I'm trialling a device called Rocki (waiting for it to become Spotify connect certified ...which should be any day now??) 

 

Anyway See why it's becoming a competitor to Sonos?

 

Google around here and you shall find   :)

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Hi wappinghigh

Wow, so much info, probably the most I ever had, thank you very much for that.

After reading it all, I think I will definitely keep serial for most of the devices, thought the hc 250 will only accommodate 2.

I have a sharp tv, only short of 2 years old, and I used to have it controlled by ip ( via an entry level automation) and it was really hit and miss.

This is what actually prompted me to invest in a c4 system and have the current set up controlled by IR. At this stage, only my marantz 2ch amp is a bit tempemental with IR. Mind you the tv, is only power on and power off so not much can go wrong, where the marantz is volume, on/off, input, speaker A/B.... So sometimes it gets confused.

Can you quickly explain the difference between IR in on some devices via a 3.5mm input and IR sensor located in front of device, or right on the IR receiver?

Is this form or IR far better than IR in via 3.5mm cable or vice versa?

Promise, I ll leave you alone after....

Regards

And once again, thank you very much for all the advice...

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Can you quickly explain the difference between IR in on some devices via a 3.5mm input and IR sensor located in front of device, or right on the IR receiver?

Is this form or IR far better than IR in via 3.5mm cable or vice versa?

 

I don't think it should make ANY difference which way the IR signal gets in there. As long as it registers...

 

If it's not working then it's more than likely a fault with the driver itself. How it was made etc etc..

 

Having said that, some devices are notoriously difficult to get a good IR bug  signal to register into the "eye"/ Some of the Pace Foxtel boxes case in point.

 

It's one of the reasons I have requested for years that the SR250 remote would have an IR blaster on the end of it (like the Harmony's). But don;t hold ya breath :) 

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