SMHarman

If it is close enough to zigbee mesh and can take the power load then your solution sounds great. 

Needs a plastic box for the radio to work properly. 

Sounds like you would need to find a place per floor to have a switch likely a poe switch to power the waps.

That gets your data and WiFi distribution over those cables you have already run.

For audio you and dealer may may want to discuss that but an EA3 and audio matrix / amp per floor means you are not retro stringing speaker wire between floors. 

There are also moca adapters and other tricks to get ethernet in retrofit. 

Third the suggestion about. The Room TV uses the paid driver as the free one does not do the TV on off Control 

Josh AI interfaces well with SONOS. 

A single SONOS connected to Josh and then connected into a matrix will give you a lot of the functionality you need. 

On 1/29/2021 at 1:30 PM, zaphod said:

I love fast speeds as much as anyone else, but what applications on an iPhone need speeds faster than 200Mbps?  That is fast enough to stream 8 4K shows on Netflix simultaneously to one iOS device.

I came here to say exactly the same thing. 

I don't think the OP needs to spend money on shiny new WiFi as the current is fast enough for any known use cases. 

More importantly it works. 

20 hours ago, eggzlot said:

Can sense detect a gas range being on?  When my gas range is on there are blue LEDs that light up above the specific knob.  When oven is on LED panel had the temperature listed.  

20 hours ago, Cinegration said:

I’m not sure.  It’s machine learning so... maybe?  Either way just having precise electrical monitoring has been a great asset to our smart homes

20 hours ago, eggzlot said:

I agree

i am just a little ocd and knowing my oven is off would be amazing.  When I press goodnight would be great to get a notice of oven was on, same when setting the alarm, etc  

I’ve looked at gas monitoring and never found a residential option

 

I would imagine it would be a challenge to hear the current draw of a few LEDs through the noise of everything else in the home. 

I'm finding it hard enough to train Moen Flo that my water ph balancer is cleaning / backflowing 80 gallons every 3rd day and this is not a flood event.  I can't put that in a Moen Flo ignore rule because it is not on every Wednesday or something but every 3rd day.

Wouldn't it be easier to put a heat sensor in the stove extractor or the oven heat vent or somewhere that would notify the oven was on.

From their website

Low-wattage consumer electronics like computers, smart devices, and game consoles can be especially tough to track. As we get data from more and more homes, the performance and coverage of our device detection will improve. In the meantime, many of our users have had great success tracking these more challenging loads via our smart plug integration. Learn more about the machine learning technology that undergirds Sense here.

Also didn't Sense just get aquired, is there a commitment that this support will persist post aquisition?

52 minutes ago, msgreenf said:

Has Comcast looked at your cable from the street to your modem?

This. I had similar problems. Blamed my owned equipment,  replaced it with their equipment found the same problem. Replaced the drop from my roof to the modem / internal cable and then I had to schlep their equipment back to them. 

Your new roku needs the same in address as the old one. 

Your new roku needs the setting checked for ip and app control. 

Don't think you need a dealer. 

I used these. 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DZQ43AI#Ask

And the materlink multix and driver. 

1 hour ago, OceanDad said:

Thanks for the response - much appreciated.  I have had some correspondence with Ken @ AV Outlet, and with ZMC themselves.  It appears that the tube is the RS-3TU from ZMC, which appears to be identical to the Louvolite System 45 tube.

So - I need a battery powered motor (no hardwiring available).  That seems to limit me to the Somfy RU28 motor, although I'm not sure how I will accomodate the external  battery pack that's required with these.

Seems like the minor parts to do the conversion are the Somfy 9014333 C/D and the ZMC RS-B74 RU28 crown.  Plus motor and battery pack of course.

My tube length is 31".  It seems like the RU28 motor only comes in one length, which is considerably shorter than that.  How does it work inside a longer tube - is it accompanied by a cut to fit central 'bar' that locks into the crown mechanism ?  Please excuse the the basic question, but I haven't done this stuff before.

 

The motor just needs to be shorter than the window / tube. It sits in one end. Both ends have the required caps for the tube size. One of those caps will have an x in long motor on the other side of it. 

On 1/4/2021 at 12:07 PM, zaphod said:

How long will the Powerwall power your entire house?  I believe they can put out 5kW of continuous power and each unit is 13.5kWh.  I think furnaces use around 500W so assuming that it is only powering your furnace then you should be good for 24 hours on one Powerwall.  But it will likely be powering more than your furnace.

The main reason that I would want a generator is if an ice storm knocked down power lines in the winter. This happened in 2013 here in Toronto.  Luckily I was not without power for too long - 24 hours off then 12 hours on, then another 12 hours off.  My next door neighbour was without power for six days - he was finally able to get a portable generator for his furnace four hours before power came back. When he rebuilt his house two years ago he put in a Generac.

FYI - I put in 10kW of regular solar panels six years ago - the same year I bought a Tesla Model S.  So I like solar panels and Teslas.

Edit - I forgot to mention that one thing that you could do with the Powerwall is arb the difference in energy prices during the day which might save you a bit of cash.  But it puts you at the risk of having the batteries depleted when you need them.  If you were to charge your batteries at night and discharge during the day with a $0.10/kWh delta in prices you could save $1.35/day or $337/yr (assuming 250 days per year with differential energy pricing). 

Few things to unpack here. 

1. One powerwall is not whole home. You would need two. 

2. You depleted the powerwall but you have solar on the roof that will replenish them during the day. 

So depending on time of year and sunshine and energy draw two PW could get you from 3 days to 6 days off grid. 

One PW on essential loads. Oil pump and heat circ pump, lights (led) fridge, microwave TV and Internet could keep you going days or have a dead spot between say 2 am and sunrise. 

On the dead before outage they communicate with the grid and weather and if a weather emergency is declared they top off and preserve content. In some esco situations they will even top off from the grid. Point being you should not start a storm depleted. 

Energy arb is a thing. Powerwall saved the solar industry in Hawaii as they time shift energy. You can buy energy from the grid midday when cheap and consume powerwall 7pm when expensive 

In MA you can also opt to sell to grid when energy is in demand. 

So for whole home 2 PW should suffice and the increased upfront cost be offset by 1) tax incentives 2) no maintainance costs 3) energy arb and credits. 

Masking tape and a rattle can of silver paint?

In this day, why a generator not Tesla Powerwall or similar. 

Zero maintenance, no startup pause or power flicker. 

Often big rebates from tax breaks and the utilities having access for brownouts.

My $30k solar and Powerwall has a 5 year ROI.

Has a RCA cable come lose impacting the grounding of this speaker? 

The 4 zone matrix seems to be rock solid. The 8 zone less so but better than the PAMP that followed. 

I sold a rock solid 4 zone matrix on eBay and bought another recently. 

My other system had a 16ch matrix B which is soon up for sale and and AMX 8 zone class d that looks a lot like the triad amp.  The matrix only came out because a triad 8 zone matrix appears for cents on the dollar on eBay and I snapped that up.

How many do you want to add!

A 20A 120v circuit is 2400W.

The Triad 8 amp is 130W of current draw.  Unless you want to Marry McFly your speakers and house this is pretty much a non issue. 

Another data point is my Sony STR ZA1100 ES. That peaks at 290W. And 0.3W on standby.  Curiously the 5000 model also peaks at 290W.  Must be the peak the transformer can pull. 

Have you looked at your local energy supplier. 

For example Masssaves has the ecobee3 for <$30 at times. Your energy provider should offer similar discount programs. 

Moen Flo has sensors and the control valve. The sensors are wireless. 

I actually used an abandoned central vac tube to get CAT from the basement to the attic and get new thermostat cable from the basement to both upstairs levels.

Or the August Yale products.

But update isn't actually out yet - lol. it won't download yet..

No AVRs in my home...

I can't get a hold of my control4 installer since covid. I upgraded my network to ubiquiti unifi network UDM Pro, not sure it's related but happened the same week. I have a few questions hopefully you all can help. is it possible to pay someone here to login and help? 
I have a HC800 in the rack, Arcam 390 receiver (connected RS232), and a EA1 v2 connected at the projector via rs232.  Last year I pulled out my 8 sonos amps and instead got the Triad 8x8 amp, which i'm so disappointed I could not use google voice. I do regret it now.  So a few questions. I kind of have some google voice setup on my system but i'm on OS2. I thought only OS3 had some google voice commands available? Can I keep my HC800? Or do I have to upgrade?  At this point most of my house is smartthings with google home controlling most things. Control4 controls  all my lights,  4 skylights, 3 somfy shades, and my home theater which consists of a BenQ projector, Arcam receiver, Lumagen radiance pro, Oppo bluray, Nvidia Shield, AppleTV, Nintendo Switch. Nvidia shield is my main video player. Just want to be able to use google to turn on the projector, receiver, lumagen, set the right input, and ability to change projector picture settings with either voice or some hard buttons near where i sit. 
Right now, i got ahead of myself, launched composer 2.10.5 and deleted my roku i stopped using, but realized that also deleted the whole set of triggers that turned on my projector, receiver etc. 
I don't know if it's my unifi, but the EA1 stopped controlling the projector. attached is the EA1, is the "enable null modem" supposed to be checked or not? there's a rs232 connected to the projector via a ethernet cable with a dongle on each side.  
so right now the kids can't turn on the theater without me.  i need to get the lumagen on the control4 via rs232 along with the Nvidia  (IP based or IR?).  Would love to be able to edit all the scenes myself (some I can, others I can't on the control4 website) as some are listed as the installer only.  I really want to use google voice for most things around the house and relegate the control4 more as the brains of  the system.
I don't think I need to upgrade the remote? or is the Neeo worth $600?  Main things for home theater is turn everything on, switch inputs on receiver and lumagen, and have a button to switch to HDR, cinema or bright setting on projector. I got it ISF calibrated and those are the 3 picture settings, bright does have the lumagen switch to a custom mode as well. 
hope all this makes sense. maybe control4 might be done the way i imagined it would be 8yrs ago when i purchased it. so far it's been fairly a disappointment but I think if i can change scenes myself and use voice it finally will be something my wife likes and kids can use. 
 
 

I just can’t believe I’m the only one with two zones in one room:
theatre/pool table
family room/kitchen
master bed/bath
And I don’t see people here running EA-3s all over their homes
i appreciate all your help, I’m just very confused and disappointed 

I have 11 zones of audio in my house. I don't treat what you are talking about as one room. Technically my basement has 1 large room and it's 3 rooms in c4. Tv room, billiard and bar. Each has their own experience

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

How many C4 controllers do you have?

1 ea3 and 1 ea1.  
Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk
 
 
 

Which one has the best experience?   Assume the bar?

I have three rooms with one TV and two zones
the Idea of buying 3 EA3s to simply play sound on two more speakers in the same room, is a bit much
what you’re saying is the EA1 is not designed for one room, it’s designed for one zone, bummer