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  1. I get that the lack of Apple Music in Control4 is Apple's fault, but the lack of Airplay 2 on the other hand isn't. Apple licenses it to 3rd parties and there are a lot of Airplay 2 devices out there. Airplay 1, which is what Shairbridge supports isn't very reliable and Airplay 2 fixes that. I'd be completely satisfied with Control4 simply adding Airplay 2 support. I continue to be surprised that this hasn't happened and am really curious as to why.
  2. Does adding a Sonos Port to a Control4 audio system (native matrix and amp) allow for streaming Sonos music services like Apple Music to the Control4 zones? And can Sonos favorites be used to start the streams, similar to what you can do with Spotify? If so, that would be an acceptable solution for me. My primary use case is starting one of a few different favorite playlists on shuffle. The next use case would be Airplay, which Shairbridge already provides, albeit only Airplay 1. I assume if the Port works that would provide a way to get an Airplay 2 stream into Control4 too. Thanks!
  3. Well there is this, but I'm not sure if it's what people were referencing earlier, or if could be used in this use case. https://developer.apple.com/documentation/applemusicapi
  4. Is the API referenced in this thread something new? Apple has had an Apple Music API and MusicKit for a long time now, and Control4 hasn't done anything with it. So unless there was something new announced I don't think that means much. I think since Sonos has integration, Control4 could too. So there must be something standing in the way of it. For instance, Apple is charging too much or is refusing Control4's requests. I wish someone who knew could tell us. I thought we'd get Apple music and Siri for sure after the official Apple TV Control4 remote integration. But alas, it has not come to pass. John
  5. Agreed. I'm completely disgusted with this entire thing. They completely abandoned the 501, and what is particularly egregious for me personally is they advertised this as working on a Mac and that was a major selling point for me. I get that it was the browser vendors fault for making the change, but to not support the older models with a fix really pisses me off.
  6. In my case you definitely cannot see inside, even when it's dark outside and the lights are on inside. For most people I think it would be adequate for privacy.
  7. I bought from https://www.smarttint.com and my contractor (who was remodeling my house) did the install. Mine is low voltage and just wired to a normal on/off switch. John
  8. I have it on my front door window. There's a switch by the door that turns it on (makes it transparent). I use it sort of like a peep hole. I thought this was going to really freak people out, but most people never even notice. But it's definitely a really cool effect. I do not have it integrated with Control4, namely because the only time we use it is when we are standing at the door, so I didn't bother to put in a C4 switch. But there's no reason it couldn't be. You'll need to use a switch and not a dimmer, at least according to what I was told. So I'd verify with the company before trying a C4 dimmer. A C4 switch should work though. One thing to keep in mind is that it's never fully transparent. It always has a slight fog. You can see through it fine, but it wouldn't be good for most windows because they'd always be slightly foggy. It would be great for a shower door, a bathroom window or clearstory windows though. Here's a video showing how it works. It looks really clear in the video, but in person it's more obviously not fully transparent. John
  9. So does anyone have a recommendation for an alternative professional solution that works on the Mac, has great Control4 integration, is a true NVR and not cloud-based and can be displayed and controlled on a TV via HDMI? I didn't pay that much for my Luma system compared to everything else in my house, so I'd be willing to replace it to get something meaningfully better. But typically the only alternatives I see are Hikvision, which is basically what I already have since Luma is a Hik re-brand. Incidentally, I have an M1 MacBook and can now run the Luma iPad app on MacOS. This is better than not having any access, but it's still pretty terrible. The Luma app on iOS is pretty decent for quickly viewing the cameras, but not very good at all when looking at recordings. I feel like so much of this is basic table stakes for a security camera system, and nobody can seem to get it right.
  10. Some great suggestions on here so far! Here are a few of mine. Apple Music - This might be an Apple limitation, but they do allow Sonos to do this. I can only assume there's some Apple problem here though, because I can't imagine Control4 would leave this out for any other reason. Airplay 2. Open/documented REST API (good one, control4user007!) When/Then to the level of HE, or better. Homekit/Siri integration - This is not an Apple limitation, but to get Siri working they effectively end up supporting all of Homekit (i.e. you'd be able to control C4 devices via the Home app, etc). I can only assume they don't want to do that. I am using a 3rd party homebridge driver now, and it's not perfect but it does work well. So hopefully Control4 decides to do this natively. Apple TV and native Mac Control4 app (i.e. Apple TV and Mac versions of the iOS app)
  11. I wrote my own MyQ driver. The API was easy to reverse engineer, and I've only had to fix it once when they made a change. But I did this as a stop gap measure until an official driver was released. I'm annoyed to hear that won't be happening. I also didn't know that you couldn't just hook up a relay to one of these garage door openers. That was my plan B! 😞
  12. I have a Luma NVR (effectively a Hikvision OEM from what I understand) and have become dissatisfied for a number of reasons (losing Mac browser support being one), so I've been in the market for a replacement and have considered UniFi. If UniFi is "meh", then what do people consider the best choice? And what makes that choice better than the rest in your opinion?
  13. I'm also on the 501, and it's only a couple of years old so I'm very annoyed that they'd not support this. I hope it's just that they haven't completed it yet. It's possible that the 501 doesn't have the hardware or other features necessary to make the plugin-less version work. I understand they can't support old things forever, but this is a pretty new device and it's effectively broken for Mac users. The irony is I went with Luma specifically because they promoted their Mac support. Alternatively, porting the iOS app to MacOS (if done competently) would suffice.
  14. I've seen similar behavior, but it's even weirder because I would get some notifications, some of the time. The last time this happened I solved it by rebooting the controller. You can always give that a try.
  15. I dug out my old Fire tablet today and installed the OS 3 app on it. It's noticeably slower in all metrics than my iPhone Xs Max. The app is slow to start (not talking about the connection to C4, but just loading the app) and slower to respond. My Fire tablet is old, likely older then what others are using, and definitely older and slower than any modern Android phone. Since that's the only Android device I have I can't do an apples to apples comparison. Of interest though, once the app is loaded and the "Connecting to my Control4 System" message appears, the time to connect is at least as fast as iOS. Perhaps on faster hardware this would be faster, hence the reason Android users by and large aren't experiencing this issue. So to be clear, for me at least, app loading time and app responsiveness is not really the issue so much as the time to make the initial connection. To simulate this you really need to kill the app before restarting it. When you do this on Android, is the "Connecting" phase noticeably slower? In the case where the app is freshly loaded, switching back to it is instantaneous, as it should be. The problem is (for me at least), my usage is infrequent enough that when I need to do something on my system the app needs to reload or reconnect so I see the "Connecting" message more often than not.
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