VINCELdUB

4 hours ago, lippavisual said:

Pull the air gap before changing the bulbs. 

Exactly. The air gap is there to kill current up to the load / lights. You most likely caused a small short of some sort for a fraction of a second. Just enough for the switch to protect itself and you. 

Hello Faught, I am sorry to hear that this is how you feel about your system. 
PM sent. 

What these boys said.

9 minutes ago, SHPRemote said:

Thanks, Vince.  Just out of curiosity, what model C4 controller(s) would work.  Ideally, I’m guessing I’d locate the main controller in my networking rack.  

CA-10 covers the largest of projects, however, the EA-5 would do nicely for what you have described in your OP.

2 minutes ago, SHPRemote said:

Hello:

I am a long-time DIY’er and home automation nut.  In my current home I have Lutron RA2 lighting, Omni Stat Thermostats for HVAC, Sonos for music (6 zones), Jandy iAquaLink for my pool/spa.  I have some zWave devices (a lock, shades and switches) which I control from a HomeSeer controller.  I have a lot this integrated into my OmniPro controller which runs my security.  I’ve got my Level One Lutron cert and am pretty proficient programming Lutron and my OmniPro.  I also set up my own network using Ubiquiti UniFi equipment (USG Pro, POE switches, multiple APs).   

I control most of my automation either the SnapLink or the old Space (Haiku) app on iPads including one I have installed in-wall.  This setup is good but not great.  Alexa integration works very nicely.  But, I do not have a great user interface.  SnapaLink is ugly (and no Sonos/iAquaLink), Space is nice looking but limited (no Sonos or iAquaLink) and the HomeSeer interface is a disaster.  My Ring doorbell/cameras and other security cameras and my IP Doorstations are not integrated into the OmniPro or HomeSeer.

I’m building a new vacation home in Colorado.  I’ve specified Lutron RA2 lighting (40 dimmers/switches and maybe 10 keypads), Somfy RTS shades (30 shades but grouped into maybe 8 groups), Sonos for music (3 to 4 Zones controlled by the the new Amps), a Flare fireplace, Baldwin Evolved Locks (Kevo), Ring Door Bell.  I haven’t yet decided on the security system  or HVAC thermostats (the home has hydronic floor heating). I am planning on putting in UniFi network with the UDM Pro and Pro POE Switches and security cameras (UniFi Protect).  

I was planning on doing what I’ve done in my current home and reconciling myself to an OK interface without complete integration.  I had looked at C4 when I set up my current home 15 years ago, but it was relatively new.  Now I’ve been looking at the latest version and I think it might be perfect for my new home.  

So, I guess I need a recommendation for an installer (either remote or in Colorado).  

Also, I’m actually thinking about maybe trying to install a C4 in my current home which is located in San Antonio.  So I wouldn’t mind a recommendation for that as well.  

Thanks

Simply put, Control4 will do you well. for both homes. 

remote dealer could help, but an established and reputable dealer is your best bet. Contact Control4 Directly and ask to speak to your area Sales Manager to get a few names of dealers.

1 minute ago, VINCELdUB said:

SHNITPWR 5V 5A DC Power Supply Adapter 5 Volt 5 Amp 25W AC 100V~240V to DC Converter Transformer LED Driver with 5.5x2.5mm DC Tip for WS2812B WS2813 LED Pixel Strip TV Box USB HUB Raspberry Pi Arduino https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S7Q9J8G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Li-aFbFK3PSGE

I use this all the time - even comes with a nice adapter - so you don’t have to cut the wires 

AC 110V/220V DC 5V 5A Power Supply 25W Switching Converter Adapter LED Power Supply for LED Strip Light,CCTV (5V 5A) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07Q2VXDKT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_IcH7Fb208MC21

12 hours ago, Wblake said:

Anyone happen to know what the minimum power supply requirement is for the C4-16S2-E-B? Have a client who's selling there home and wants to spend minimal $$ to have it working. unfortunately the system is very dated and he is looking down the edge of a slippery slop as his HC800 power cycles whenever we attempt to update or access certain composer options in the system. Hoping to just replace the power supply as to not have to deal with firmware at this time......hopefully.....

SHNITPWR 5V 5A DC Power Supply Adapter 5 Volt 5 Amp 25W AC 100V~240V to DC Converter Transformer LED Driver with 5.5x2.5mm DC Tip for WS2812B WS2813 LED Pixel Strip TV Box USB HUB Raspberry Pi Arduino https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S7Q9J8G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Li-aFbFK3PSGE

I use this all the time - even comes with a nice adapter - so you don’t have to cut the wires 

Hello,
Are the HC-800 of any use in a system that has an EA-5 serving audio and a few EA-1 outside of using them as a IO extender?  Maybe use it to offload the zigbee server role?   The only thing Im using it for now are the RS232 
Below is a rough system outline 
1. ~100 zigbee devices
2. C4 audio matrix switch
3. 5 non c4 amps4 serving 12 audio zones
4. 4 TVs 
5. 10 cameras 
Thoughts and insights are always appreciated on any other uses to speed up the system etc.  
Thanks in advance.

5. I know music cannot be controlled through this driver currently, but are there any established workarounds that work cleanly?  (i.e. creating a dummy light called "Kitchen Music" and then programming music to turn on/off against the state of that light?)
Much appreciate any input!


I have in the past created (dummy) switches. Name them the name of a device.

Create two switches in C4 to get started.

A Switch called “Living Mary favourite tunes” and also Then create a switch called “Living Media Off”.

I would then create a script or macro that would start at the light. When light on, select Mary’s Spotify in living room. As well as turn on the “Living Media Room Off” switch.


and then would say “Hey Siri, turn on Living Mary favourite tunes”.

And then a script or macro when “Living Media Room Off” is turn off, turn off living room and turn of any other “media “ virtual switches in the room.



Happy Automating!!

24 minutes ago, blub said:

Level of quantum confusion is reached, Vince account posts that Vince isn't here anymore, which can mean multiple meanings, then someone posts that he "passed away", which doesn't contradicts the post made by Vinces' account and now Vinces' account posts that he alive and well - damn I need a strong drink now to get that sorted , sadly I am at work and alcohol isn't allowed...

This is Vince Yost. 
using Vince Yost’s account. 
a strong drink for sure. 
 

I am alive. And well.
 

I have been hibernating.  Like a bear  

Do you need help with this till?



Happy Automating!!

Hmmmmm. interesting!!!!  Need to buy some remote in home depot, connect power supply (no batteries issues in future) and solder some small relay to contacts, connect to controller. Hmmm. may be I will try it. Thanks for idea.

Feel like I just visited my own funeral....
Good evening all. And thank you for the love



Happy Automating!!

Uh, I am here.
Not dead.
Consider it a “ I was Hacked “ moment.

Sorry for the confusion.
This is Vince. Here I am.



Happy Automating!!

Alright, I will tackle this.

Please see my reply later today as I will have to build it my self.


PS.
My name is Mike and I have taken over VINCELdUB’s account as he is no longer here.
I will strive to continue providing the care and attention to detail as he did.
Happy Automating!!

Take a quick peek at the two images you have sent.

Which one can be accomplished in the least amount of clicks?

For the sake of time and characters onscreen, I feel you have your own answer.

PS. This is mike. Vince’s partner. I have taken over VINCELdUB’s postings as he is no longer here.

Long time sir. Are you having an issue? Or new product for you?


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Same here Niel. We all love coffee money


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Niel, all of our condolences in this time or mourning and celebration of your mentors life!!


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as long as all your xml is right, the name doesn't matter

I am glad to help. Amazing what pops up when bumbling around in the forums. And a reminder of how much time has passed. I remember this driver like it was yesterday. 

Well done. Scientific. And concise. Don’t think there is much more to add to that.


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This also depends on the sources. For example, a cable box is most likely “always on” therefore the audio output is always on. So there is no change for the amp to see. 
also, the detection is based on output from source. There will be a minimum power output required to “trigger” the sensing on the amp. I have used a preset volume that is higher for a moment to trigger the sensing on other devices in the past. 
 

perhaps making sure the device’s audio output actually stops producing power when off or not selected would help. 
 

How about VHS and BETAMAX  - DVD just killed everything 

vince nailed it. likely a bad power supply. Unlikely control4 will have parts for these either at this time. Hope you bought it from somewhere with a return policy or at least fix it and get a credit.