Pounce

Yea, I figured I'd have to give up on the Frame picture service unless I used only custom images meant for the rotated view. Not the end of the world. The wall location is one that would support a vertical portrait mode for a larger TV. Visually, its good for the 65 vertical. To get a horizontal tv to fit there in order to support physical rotation the tv would have to be a 43. That size would be a little underwhelming for the use case. Believe me I ran through that scenario so its a good thought. So can the Nvidia Shield running VS do the 90 rotation in the software? I'm assuming I can't make the Shield display in portrait mode. I don't think it can do that. I'm assuming I have to make VS rotate everything 90. I'm hoping I'm just blind to a simple solution.

Ok, I've been tasked with this for a while and thought the Samsung Sero was going to save me from having to cobble something together. It's looking like the Sero wont be something you can wall mount so I'm off looking for another solution. This is for the wife in the kitchen. I need a portrait mode TV or a TV that is mounted vertically. I then need to mirror her Samsung S10 and S20 to the TV so she can show whatever in portrait mode. I'm guessing that is mostly the browser, texts, pictures and not really casting things like Netflix. I'd also like to be able to tile up to 3 sources on the TV to make it useful for other than mirroring, but portrait phone mirroring is key. Honestly, this seemed like such and obvious thing people might want to do that I was surprised that there weren't a handful of simple solutions. For a hardware solution I've found this through google-fu http://www.link-mi.com/products/Video Wall Controller/916144457843.html So you take a casting dongle like a chrome cast and it looks like this scaler/processor helps you rotate and crop. I'm hopeful I might be able to do the same with something like VideoStorm, but I might need someone experienced in VS to tell me if I can do it using a Shield or if I need a VRX. I actually thought this was the way to solve this need a couple of years ago before I put the task on the backlog. At the moment I'd like to use a Samsung The Frame 65" mounted vertically for the display to achieve the look the wife would prefer. Its going to look like a picture frame flush to the wall. I'd prefer not to use some of the sign displays meant for vertical mounting. The Frame ticks the aesthetics box required for the location. Anyone have a solution for the main objective? Mirror an android phone in portrait mode to a TV in portrait mode at the best resolution possible?

The Moen Shower controller doesn't have a public API, but there is one. So I suppose its possible to control it. I saw at least one person create some code for it based on poking around on the javascript portal. https://github.com/madenwala/Moen.U.Api

Maybe try and app called Auto Speaker. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.hanan.android.ramkol&hl=en_US I do not know if it can work for this scenario. There may be others like it.

You have another topic that is related. At times I'm a little ADD, but what is the reason for the new thread? I don't mean this to sound harsh at all, but you might want to involve your dealer to just solve the use cases that you need solving. This seems to be going in some circles.

https://www.video-storm.com/proddetail.php?prod=IRUSB @videostorm can probably go into more detail. Also, @alanchow also has a great driver for IrUSB. https://www.chowmainsoft.com/irusb-control4 .

You should try one, but go all the way and get the IrUSB from VideoStorm and set up some mini apps. One use case for that that isn't talked about much is that you can deep link to Netflix shows and hidden genres... and there are a lot of genres... http://ogres-crypt.com/public/NetFlix-Streaming-Genres2.html

In my experience bulbs can change quality and parts over time. I typically buy 4 or 5 single bulbs from different brands for the bulb type I want and test them for color temp and flickering. I'm sensitive to flicker or rather I can see it where other people cannot. When I pick the bulb I like I buy 125% of the quantity I need so I have enough for some doa bulbs and replacements. I learned this after having my favorite brands go to hell when I went to replace a few bad bulbs. You want to really pay attention to the color temp you like. I don't have any 5000+ kelvin bulbs. I run 4000k in kitchens in my rentals. People like it. 3000k most everywhere else and then 2700-2200k in special places. There are some interesting dimming bulbs around that can switch their color temp on the bulb and some using quick toggles of the switch. That gives you some flexibility. I actually still intentionally run some incandescent bulbs on dimmers because they dim "correctly" and they get warmer when dimmed. All that to mean you should always try bulbs before you buy a lot of them. Really consider the color temps.

I assume you know what ASAP means. What's the rush? Are you a C4 client already? It's not clear from question. In what way are you trying to extend a C4 system that you need to consider ST? Perhaps your just link dropping?

All in good fun.

Ok. You are playing semantics. You are saying "professional" in this case is someone that has had C4 training, has some paper certificate and works for a dealer as an employee. I'm guessing you tick at least one of those boxes. Its a common thread here for the dealers to throw mud and make fun of people that are new, confused or maybe have wishful thoughts about doing their own programming. It's obviously insulting to those capable of doing it. You miss an opportunity to make a client when this happens. Instead of being terse and insulting you can probably say something like "Unfortunately, most of the work uses a dealer model. I'm happy to help you get your system set up and show you how you can customize and improve the parts of the system that customers can change. It doesn't have to cost a lot and I think you will find you don't need a lot of dealer involvement in a basic setup. I can help. I've helped a number of people that want C4, but are uncomfortable with the dealer model"

I'm guessing haven't had kids or if you have you might be divorced

I'm interested in a Silver Neeo and an EA3. I'm not in a hurry. I'm trolling ebay every few days for the same. If you have a used one let me know. If I don't find them in a few weeks I'll buy new. Open to offers for new hardware. Thanks for looking.

So, if you are willing to accept a compromise then you can still get your Neeo. What people aren't mentioning is that its possible to do this yourself, but honestly its not done 99.99% of the time for some very good reasons. To do it yourself take some effort and learning and for most people its really not worth the effort and long term care and feeding. If you just want to set up a Neeo and an EA# and you don't have a lot of stuff to control a remote dealer can get you configured for a reasonable amount. Once you have it set up there are ways to tweak it yourself if you truly needed to, but for the most part once things are set up they don't need a lot of work. So you pay between 500 and 1k for the hardware and another couple of hundred to get it set up by a remote dealer quickly. Big deal. You just saved a weekend of messing around with a new complex system just to operate a media room. Believe me. I get where you are coming from. I have 3 different platforms for home control and they each have their own level of efforts and trade offs. I'm not a dealer. Maybe I'm one of those home professionals that msgreenf thinks arent a thing. Look, if you want a remote like a Neeo your options are very limited. Keep an eye on the end result.

See all this time I thought you were a home professional.

I think maybe a while back I mentioned to you OpenMQTTGateway flashed to the bridge. https://docs.openmqttgateway.com/use/rf.html#rf-with-sonoff-rf-bridge

Why would you need this to interact with the HDMI switch when using HA? What sort of HDMI switch and what control does it expose? IR? Serial? IP? All of that can be done with HA.

This may sound weird, but you might want to consider having your attic insulation removed for the process and upgrade it when the wiring is done. Not sure how old your house is, but if its on the older side you can kill a few birds while you are up there. If insulation out makes sense because its outdated etc you can do the following: Make a safe and easy space for the retrofit. Make it easy to run ENT smurf tube Easier to add and change ceiling speakers like adding Atmos to your 5.1 spaces. You can add electrical or even wire for central lighting You can add power for automating shades. Add an ERV You can air seal all of your top plates. Its amazing how leaky walls are where the sheetrock meets the top plate. Inspect all of your ducting if you have it an unconditioned attic and fix/replace/upgrade Bring your R rating up to current specs Chose different material or combination of materials like Rockwool batt for sound deadening then blown in for R value Its a very simple process. They vacuum it out into a big filter sock with a big hose. I did this once on my own house because I had a squirrel problem and was grateful for taking the step. I found a few serious issues under the insulation that could have very easily become house fires. None of the top plates were sealed. HVAC boots were poorly sealed. I was able to retrofit ethernet everwhere plus additional circuits. I tripled the R value and switched from fiberglass. If your house is relatively new this might not make sense. If it does make sense your installer would love you.

Pointless to use any cat5. You are buying spools of cat6 or cat7. You just use all the same. Run 3. Do you have a crawl space below are are you on slab?

Looks really great. Do you mix audio sometimes so you hear the audio from more than one source playing in the grid? Like 2 and 3 have audio while 1 and 4 are muted?

For sure you are doing the smart thing. If the installer just does ethernet and doesn't like running fiber HDMI then you know you need to twist his arm. I think get familiar with what the IP based distribution systems offer. You know about Baluns for extending HDMI and/or audio for deliver and return channels. The fiber option would not need a balun. A pair of fiber hdmi cables would also allow you to get arc or earc back to the rack for distributed audio from a local source at the tv. Then with the IP solutions you have transmitters and receivers. Baluns and IP solutions both use ethernet from rack to TV, but do so in different ways.

Regardless of whether you end up initially using HDMI from a central location I think the advice to run 8k HDMI Fiber to each TV is a good idea. The cables aren't really all that expensive these days. HDMI plus 3 Cat6. If you need to support a center channel speaker at the TV location you might include a cable for that. Again, I'd really consider having a dealer design the solution for you. They will make sure you have what you need. Its good you have a head start. That will make the conversation much easier. Not sure what else you have automated, but its a good time to do lighting, outlets, cameras, motion, more wireless AP's, etc. Those can require cable runs.

Perfect. You are getting good advice. This is the good use case for distributed. IP based solutions are worth a look, but I'd connect with your local dealer that you want to use on what they normally support. These can offer some of the tiling and video wall functions over some other basic HDMI matrix. SnapAV MOIP Just Add Power VideoStorm SnapAV MOIP may be easier from a dealer perspective with Control4 due to the ownership etc.

Yes. But its also variable. An impaired connection reduces bandwidth and therefore increases artifacts to support continued viewing without hicups in the viewing. So if you get compression artifacts they can be from your region, service provider, congestion in the area, your internal networking and the decoding device. Many factors. But, yes, logically streaming has less data than the disc and will not have the same capability. For sure. But its really good these days and I'm appreciating that the Shield can deliver. Most people are so involved in the content and accept compression artifacts as normal that they don't care. Only us weird people care the eek out all that the technology can deliver. We are certainly lucky that Netflix and Amazon are ramping up their HDR and Atmos support.

Did not understand that. Obviously internet connectivity and the like contributes to picture issues. If you are a curious sort you can test the same time slice a day apart and at different times to see if its the content or the delivery of the content. That Vertex device is working some impressive magic for Projectors. https://www.hdfury.com/enjoy-dynamic-dv-content-from-lldv-source-on-any-hdr10-display/