jlemonakis

Strong signal isn't my issue because I'm under -40 RSSI. I think right now it's got a reservation with auto-discovery on, which I think is the same way I had kasa switches (I can't remember if you can set them statically). Yeelight strip at some point had like 900hrs uptime but still dropped maybe a couple of times. Auto-discovery off fixed drops for you?

Which one of these works better? I own both drivers and already have one yeelight strip in my house, as well as a ton of the kasa switches (no dimmers or bulbs). The Kasa line has been absolutely bulletproof at my house and has never actually went down or caused any sort of issue with C4. The Yeelight maybe 3-4 times I've had to essentially re-submit the ip into the driver to regain control (I always set devices for static). I've had this happen with a few different devices since I've started programming and sometimes it's an SDDP device, sometimes it's not, but more often than not it's on a receiver or something. With the chowmain tp-link driver I've never had to do that. Now that I've established that in my experience the tp-link/chowmain setup has been more reliable than yeelight/chowmain (by a very small margin), I'm just wondering how the integration is for the KL430 and if it seems to be just as stable as the HS200s. Has anyone used the KL430 with chowmain driver yet?

The basic layout for programming I was playing with to test them, is to essentially have a "follow me" toggle experience button, each room having an "occupancy" variable to act as a container for the roomme variables as they come in. When toggle is active when roomme sends entry events, I use that to set the room variable true, but also use the entry to set the others (only other roomme interior rooms) as false (other than the garage for example) so as not to rely on roomme's sometimes inconsistent exit events. The exit isn't as well defined as the entry even if you calibrate it multiple times. I have noticed though once in a while even if you're sitting in one spot under the sensor it will still show that you left the room and re-entered. Then you just tie light loads to the variables with the conditional being the experience button is on. You could just tie that to a keypad button or something if you wanted a physical button somewhere to toggle.

From a dealer standpoint I would definitely pass. This would only be for clients that are already technically inclined and understand the difference between experimental and stable, third party vs certified etc. I'm enjoying playing around with them as well as a couple of my co-workers. For a programmer or anyone on this board I would say I probably recommend them for a personal system in conjunction with other sensors. I have three in my house at the moment but I feel like it really works best as a percentage of overall sensors. They would really add to security and motion sensors, and actually probably best used as a fallback for motion lighting so that the room knows that someone is still there (motionless/sleeping for example). For room entry it doesn't seem to be super consistent (sometimes 20ms, and sometimes like 2s) and seems like it depends on if your phone has a wake lock or not. So it shouldn't be relied on for lighting or anything that requires consistent instant feedback.

I did but I didn't attach anything to the device events yet. They're a little bit finicky to setup because it seems like you need to go through the calibration completely uninterrupted or the entire system of sensors has their calibration corrupted or something.

I installed 3.1 last night to check out some changes and on this driver it says connected to cloud, but cloud driver doesn't pick it up, and cannot see it in drivercentral portal either. For possibly similar reasons (being on an updated version that's only a few hours old) I had some difficulties getting the app to connect to the Control4 server.

Does this drain client device battery really quick? Looks like you need persistent app?

https://homeation.com/app-details/Spectrum_by_Digital_Watchdog I can't remember if it's useless or not. If I remember right it's only useful for DW NVRs. Otherwise for the cameras if they're ONVIF you should be able to find a similar camera or generic driver to pull in a stream or something.

I thought there was a DW driver?

The other thing it could be used for other than stopping loops or executing is for UI reasons like changing the color of a button back to what it was or to the target color etc. Single tap executes on the release since it's defined as a press followed by a release. If you want something to be processed as fast as possible for example you would use on press so that it doesn't have to wait for the subsequent release to execute.

We've had an open ticket with engineering for a while now on a certain project. At least on the model iPort we used, press/hold to dim connected lights/scenes does not send ramping commands correctly. It's been a while so I don't remember the exact details of behavior but it's a known issue. If you just use the buttons as standard buttons they seemed to work fine.

Sonoff makes multiple output wifi relays, but unless you're willing to do some Linux stuff and setup Tasmota/ESP and run mqtt that isn't a very good option. You can pretty easily use the Sonoff switches if you have chowmain's driver (and also generic lighting driver), but that wouldn't be as stable and it would rely on Chinese infrastructure/cloud servers out of the box.

If the loads are pulled centrally you could always use a din module. Kind of overkill for two loads though. I'm not sure if that's what you meant by "Control4 device that isn't a switch". You say you want something in the equipment room but that isn't possible if all of the loads are in that box.. Unless you either run data/control to that box or rewire HV, have decent wireless coverage at the location (zigbee or 802.11), or if by some chance the loads wires do in fact come back or used to at some point. It depends on a lot of factors. That timer looks like it controls 2 loads. Assuming they're all just basic light loads/you're on a budget/have good wireless or zigbee, and that box is weatherproof (doubt it), use a switch or a few switches in the box. Another alternative is run some low voltage control wires over to location and use that to control a relay(s). You could even do something like use a z2io indoors near the wall where you have good zigbee coverage and use that as the starting point for your control wire/relay(s). Nothing will be as good as a completely hardwired setup of course. Central module with loads running out from a din module etc.

I think the RS1 driver worked well for IR. Try the rs440_x590r driver for ip and see if it works.

If that's the projector I'm thinking (it was definitely D-ILA series, and at least close to the rs57 if it wasn't that exact model) we always have issues with the IP driver losing control after a week or two due to the network interface seemingly failing to wake up. You have to turn it on with IR once or manually turn it on once so that you can. It's not an eco setting or some kind of missed power/hdmi control/network setting. Happens at multiple sites and only ever with that model. To make a long story short I would definitely just use IR control with that projector.

https://github.com/greghesp/assistant-relay Has anyone tried this?

It looked possible through the Actions API so I guess I'll have to look at making my own driver or something for IFTTT to hook into at least. I was just hoping someone else along the line had already figured something out.

I use a series of Chromecast audios for multi-room audio as well as Google home minis for voice control. I have no problem controlling Control4 with Google using chowmain's driver but only in that direction. Has anyone come up with a workaround or custom solution (even writing your own actions driver) to push commands to Chromecast devices or Google devices in general?