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Elvis last won the day on December 14 2016

Elvis had the most liked content!

About Elvis

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    Control4 End User
  • Birthday 09/28/1959

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    Kerrville, TX

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  1. Yes, I would think that's the easiest way.
  2. Which product are you using and are you happy with it? Don't mean to hijack the thread, but my wife wants something like this on top of her cabinets for some "bounce" lighting off the ceiling. Will also reduce glare on the TV in the adjoining family room. Something RGB might be nice, too.
  3. Don't forget that Amazon Echo and Dots are Spotify Connect-able. I just tried it by starting a playlist on my phone, doing the Spotify connect thing from the app to my Dot. With the music playing, I then turned my phone to airplane mode. The Dot didn't care, it kept right on playing. Alexa, pause. Alexa, next. etc. When I turned off Airplane mode and called the Spotify app back up, it sync'd itself with the current song and position playing on the Dot. A pretty cheap option for adding Spotify Connect to any amplifier.
  4. Educational, thank you. Very helpful. Confirmed my choice of using variable speed fans. Venting it out the top/front should send the heat right into the return air duct.
  5. That's the ticket, thank you.
  6. Hope to be building my AV rack this weekend. How much space do I need above (and below?): AVR (Denon x3300w, Pioneer SC-65) C4 4-zone matrix amp Any recommendations on a very quiet rack fan? Thanks
  7. You're just full of good news. I guess I'll leave one standard bulb in each room. We can't tell the difference.
  8. I bought a contractor pack of Feit LEDs and they are all used in dimmable locations with no issues. I think they are 2700 or 3000 so they are warm and more natural to us. These are BR40's and are mixed with standard bulbs with no issues.
  9. 1. I'd install the in-wall and in-ceiling speakers. I would run wire to every sensor or security device you might want. I'd include smoke, fire, CO as needed. I'd definitely put in the HDMI cables that run from the TV to local boxes you might have connected. I'd consider @Matt Lowe's recommendation of Celerity HDMI over fiber for longer runs from your basement to the TVs. But if you do go with a video matrix, I'd save money and get one with the HDbaseT transmitter built into the matrix (I'm not speaking from experience, just seeing it demo'd at a Houston dealer). If you think you might ever use powered shades or blinds, I'd run the appropriate power to each window. Powered shades I have seen are a lot quieter than the battery powered option. If you do the Clark W. Griswold thing with exterior illumination, I'd run power out the soffits. Seriously, when you are down to the studs, you want to get to those places you'll never be able to crawl to in the attic. I would run Cat5e or Cat6 to every location where I might want a computer or printer. Wireless is convenient, but I've never gotten a call from my wife that she couldn't print to a wired printer. Control4 wand remotes and other manufacturers' remotes are rechargeable -- so you need power to to where the remote is going to live or be kept. Floor power outlets are loved or hated. Our old house had recessed boxes with a flat top cover. Much better than the current ones we have where the outlet is flush with the floor. Not much you can do if on concrete. Most switches and lights require a neutral -- at least you have more options with a neutral -- if you are considering a re-wire. 2. Alexa and Siri were adopted members of my family at a rate that I did not expect. I'd put a lot of weight on devices that have Alexa skills and Homekit integration. As far as cost cutting hardware goes, this forum has proved to be invaluable. See the for sale section. I purchased a demo 4 zone matrix amp for $350 vs. $1200 new. A dealer's complete networking system for half price used, vs. new -- and it is not "last year's" version or old tech -- exact same stuff a local dealer wanted to sell me. That being said, I went way over budget on my renovation and was too impatient to save up the $12k my local dealer quoted me for an extensive, complete installation. I deeply regret that decision.
  10. Perhaps people in major cities have security options, but even in San Antonio (10th largest in the US) the only option for taking over a security system is ADT and a 3 year contract. Even though I see more vendors advertising, zero luck finding dealers willing to tackle a take-over project. David was able to remotely identify what I could use to take over my extensive security system without getting stuck with a 3 year contract (and other services I don't need.) Very happy with the options I now have, thanks to David.
  11. Yes and maybe not. I have only tried light switches (no locks, no garage door). The switches can be integrated similarly to a C4 switch. Obviously you can't program against the switch as extensively as you can a C4 switch (you can't change the LED color, no double-tap, etc.) In your previous post, you asked if it was worth it to buy a Wink hub. I would try a Vera hub first as the drivers are included in C4. (Assuming Vera will work with your locks)
  12. Good to know. I'm going to give it a try tomorrow.
  13. "Why don't you avoid all this and put it in the wall between the two rooms? Right next to both TVs?" She says this as she leaves to get wings and beer for the game. I'm not making this up. Wow.
  14. Yes, XBR-65X850D and Panasonic GT50. I'm just going to test it. My pioneer receiver will tell me what it is receiving on the digital audio in. I'll hook the XBox to the TV via HDMI and then go Optical Out of each TV to the receiver. Then I'll slap in a DTS, Dolby Digital, and a few other DVDs and see what the receiver tells me. Or I'm going to convince the wife to let me put the the rack on the same wall as the TVs, which are back to back on a common wall... and just avoid this nonsense. I'm sure having a 35u rack in the bedroom will do a lot for, well I won't go there. 5.0 and 5.1
  15. This is from the Sony manual. The Panasonic tells me whatever it gets via HDMI goes out the optical out. This is confirmed by the receiver which switches to match what it receives. You guys sound like you know different. This is a lot harder nut to crack than I expected. I don't know why this in here twice. I can't delete it.