cshepard

On 8/11/2021 at 8:18 PM, lebron2k21 said:

If you have installed 18 screens then why is largest system to date 4 screens? Or am I missing something here? 

Touchscreen count doesn’t necessarily correlate to total project size. The system with 18 touchscreens had 26 distributed audio zones & 19 video zones, and not a whole lot else. Our largest system is around 24 audio zones & 8 non-distributed video zones. But it also has almost 100 lighting loads, 20+ bus keypads, 46 motorized shades, 7 C4 thermostats, & just about every other doodad you can integrate into C4. The house is just a little over 5000 sq. ft. so 7 touchscreens will be plenty.

The most we’ve put in one house is 18. We’ve done many systems with zero. When we do use them, 3-5 seems to be a common range. Our largest C4 system to date has four T4s, and we will be adding three more. So it really just depends on the scenario and your preferences.

Ideally you’ll set up the Frame TV’s driver properties to “Art mode without app” on Power Off. This way C4 doesn’t think that you are using a “Watch” source when Art mode is being used.

We’ve integrated probably hundreds of Frame TVs & none of them are anywhere near that slow to turn on.

The mini apps work very well with Roku devices.

On 7/21/2021 at 7:04 AM, Amr said:

And you have dual sound in this case from both TV and Soundbar? In my case I need to set TV volume to zero and hear only Soundbar! I already have that as a custom button but not convenient at all.

No, the TV sees the ARC connection & disables the TV sound.

You can create a number variable that counts button presses. Then, if button presses = 1, set color to X. If button presses = 2, set color to Y, etc. Then have the last button press/color set the button press count back to 0.

On 7/9/2021 at 5:09 PM, alanchow said:

The govee immersion does work (I installed it on my tv) with our driver however due to limitations in govees API we cannot set scenes or modes.  As such you cannot switch to movie mode if you switch out of it.

At my place I just leave it in movie mode and hide color and color temperature proxies.

Have programmed it to turn on at 100% brightness if the tv turns on at night and turns off when the tv turns off.

this works really well.

Alan, is/will the Govee tape lighting be compatible with the color wheel driver?

On 3/4/2021 at 8:47 AM, sofakng said:

There will be announcement coming very soon.  I'm not sure how much I can say but this is definitely something to look forward to!

Any updates on this?

4 hours ago, South Africa C4 user said:

And an even more desirable Director would be a CA10...

Sheesh...the guy is already not excited about the potential $$ of getting his system up & running, and you’re suggesting a CA-10? I work for a Gold dealer (we’ll hit Gold for this year by the end of the month; most likely Platinum by the end of the year), and I’ve never even seen a CA-10. Not that we don’t have projects that could benefit from one, but it may be overkill for a lot of systems.

15 hours ago, jamesc4 said:

Any plans of C4 having a color wheel for RGBW lighting 

The Janus one listed above works with RGBW. Control4 doesn’t discuss future plans.

9 hours ago, BraydonH said:

The price between a Configurable Keypad and Keypad dimmer is minimal.

And the Keypad dimmer will install quicker because you don't need to retrofit in another electrical box for the keypad, you just replace the switch thats already there.

And you get the benefit of lighting control. So I still say your best off getting the keypad dimmers and replace the switch in every room you want audio control in.

By that point half the lighting in the house will be automated and it wouldn't be hard to add in a few more lights and really get some awesome functionality.

No argument from me here.

Instead of keypad dimmers you could also do C4-KC120277. They can be powered over Category or other LV cable via 48v power supply so you don’t have to mess with high voltage.

You needed someone who had a clue what they were doing to design a system for you before you bought the equipment.

6 hours ago, Neo1738 said:

Just curious if a dealer why can't you get the modules from C4? Do they only ship those to outside US?

Correct. This is a European Zigbee module and it doesn’t show up on the US Control4 dealer portal.

I am a dealer in the US. We have a project where we need to use four Yale Conexis L1 locks.  Getting the locks from the UK is no issue, but I am looking for a UK dealer who would be willing to help source the Zigbee modules from Control4.  The part number should be ZYA-MOD-C4-S.  If anyone can help, please PM me.  Thanks (mods please delete if not allowed).

For #5 there is an issue where you need to go into the customer.control4.com account, make sure the main email address (user) for the account is not set up as an Intercom Anywhere user, then go in and add users for IA where the email addresses are different than the main C4 account.

This is what happens when an end-user tries to design their own system before understanding what they need/want.

This is an odd post for a public forum....

I just came here to say that Ubiquiti (UniFi) is NOT on a “Do Not Use” list!

On 12/8/2020 at 10:14 AM, sofakng said:

@Dueport I'm still talking to the distributor to find out more information but I'll let you know when I find out.

I'm a member of the Control4 Partner Program (ie. driver developer) and it sounds like the distributor wants to work with an authorized dealer.  If anybody is interested in working with me and the distributor please let me know.

Regardless, when I find out how other dealers can purchase the units I will definitely post the information.

Any more info on this? Thanks!

I don’t understand why people are still trying to fight with IP drivers for AppleTV. Use IR & be done with it.

14 hours ago, zaphod said:

What's the best way to do this?  Analog stereo baluns? Digital coax over ethernet?  Do you need baluns to send digital audio over ethernet or can you just use "bare wire", as in use the orange pair for signal and the blue pair for ground, or whatever?

One complicating factor is that it seems to me that TVs are less likely to have digital coax audio outputs than analog or optical.  You can use optical but then you need a converter or balun for sure.

And when you are doing this do you need to use an additional ethernet run or are there other ways of combining the signal on one drop, kind of like ARC?

Audio baluns are the way to do this—we sell lots of Samsung TVs which have optical audio outputs, so we use Cat5/6 extenders that also do the D to A conversion. For TVs like Sony that have analog audio out, a simple analog audio balun can be used. You’ll want a dedicated Cat cable for this. Try not to call a Category cable an Ethernet cable unless it is actually being used for Ethernet. There are systems/devices that carry video/audio over Ethernet, but those are a completely different animal than what is being discussed here.

You need a matrix and amplifier, or a third-party matrix amp. Also if I were you, I would connect the Chromecasts directly to the TVs locally, and send the audio outputs of the TVs back to your audio matrix or matrix amp.

On 2/18/2021 at 2:03 PM, dmcvie said:

Thanks guys. The C4-16 amp does not have digital inputs. So I guess its using the first analogue output (1), contrary to what MStafford suggested ("dig 2 before dig 1, then analog 2 before analog 1"). The amp is expecting the audio to be coming on input 2 (amp display confirms this), but the EA-5 is sending it on output 1. Yes, I've switched the cables as Braydon suggested and that works.

But given that I've got output 1 to input 1, and output 2 to input 2; in the connections routing, you'd think the amp would select the best route.

Mstafford is correct. The audio routing order for an EA-5 is: digital 2, digital 1, analog 2, then analog 1.